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Honda2009–2020 Critical issues documented

Honda City: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Honda City (2009–2020) in New Zealand? We've documented 11 known faults for this model spanning transmission, suspension, electrical, and engine. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Honda City

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

11

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$300–$900

Typical repair

24

Service milestones

Which Honda City are you looking at?

2 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Honda City

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the City came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Honda City

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Honda City before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Cold-start then drive in stop-go and up a hill, feeling for judder and shift hesitation.

    See why

    i-DCD 7-speed dual-clutch failure (Grace hybrid)

    The Honda Grace/City hybrid does not use a CVT - it uses Honda's 7-speed dual-clutch i-DCD gearbox (same unit as the JDM Fit/Vezel hybrid), which had a troubled launch. Honda issued a series of Japan recalls for the DCT control software that could cause a delay driving off, inability to move, or juddering/harsh shifts. The dry-clutch design overheats in stop-go traffic and wears; owners report overheating warnings and loss of drive uphill. Grey-import Graces often never received the corrective firmware, and fault code P2857 (clutch pressure) is common. Ignored, it progresses from judder to non-engagement and full DCT replacement.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder/judder pulling away from a stop
    • Jerky, harsh or delayed shifts
    • Transmission-overheat warning in traffic
    • Hesitation or loss of drive on uphill starts

    Typically $3,500–$9,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect the rubber boot for splitting or grease loss.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

    The front lower control arm on the City GM6/GM8 uses a pressed-in ball joint that is not separately serviceable from the arm on most parts-supply channels, meaning wear requires arm replacement. The joint's polymer-lined socket wears under the combined radial and axial loads of front suspension travel, particularly in markets with variable road surfaces, causing increasing play that affects steering accuracy and allows the knuckle to move in ways the ABS and VSA sensors do not expect. Undetected wear can progress to sudden joint separation, which results in immediate loss of front wheel steering control.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during slow cornering
    • Vague or wandering steering feel with slight shimmy at highway speeds
    • Uneven or accelerated inner front tyre wear

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive at 30–50 km/h with light throttle on flat road — feel for a rhythmic shudder through the floor or seat.

    See why

    CVT (Earth Dreams) Belt Judder Under Light Load

    The Honda City GM6 automatic variants use a CVT with a dry-start pushbelt design that is sensitive to degraded CVT fluid, particularly after intervals exceeding 40,000 km without a fluid change. Degraded fluid loses its friction-modifier package, causing the steel pushbelt to slip micro-incrementally against the pulley faces under light-load acceleration from low speeds, producing a characteristic judder or shudder felt through the drivetrain. Left unaddressed, belt-to-pulley contact wear accelerates and can require full CVT replacement.

    What you would notice

    • Vibration or judder felt through the car body during gentle acceleration from 20–60 km/h
    • Shudder that disappears under firm throttle or at higher speeds
    • CVT fluid that is brown or smells burnt on inspection

    Typically $250–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Cold-start the engine and listen immediately for top-end rattle.

    See why

    L13Z / L15Z Timing Chain Cold-Start Rattle

    Honda City models using the L13Z and L15Z 1.3–1.5L engines share the same hydraulic timing chain tensioner design and documented cold-start rattle pattern as other Honda L-series small engines. Rattle is caused by slow oil pressure build-up at the tensioner and is exacerbated by infrequent oil changes or incorrect viscosity oil. The fault is documented by NZ and AU City owners across multiple model years.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattle from engine top end at cold start clearing within seconds
    • Rattle worsens progressively if oil changes are delayed
    • VVT or camshaft position fault codes
    • Occasional rough idle when fully cold

    Typically $900–$2,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect the rubber boots for splits or displacement.

    See why

    Front and Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

    The City GM6/GM8 uses sliding-type brake calipers front and rear where the caliper body floats on two steel guide pins that are coated in rubber boots filled with brake grease. In humid or coastal environments, the boots crack with age and allow moisture to contact the pin and its aluminium bracket bore, causing galvanic corrosion that locks the guide pin in place. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from retracting after brake application, causing the outer pad to remain pressed against the rotor, leading to rapid pad wear on one side, rotor scoring, and brake drag that generates heat sufficient to cause brake fluid boil in extreme cases.

    What you would notice

    • Uneven brake pad wear with the outer pad significantly thinner than the inner pad on the same axle
    • Brake drag, pulling to one side under braking, or a hot wheel/burning smell after normal driving

    Typically $150–$700 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check for illuminated EPS warning light in the instrument cluster.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

    The City GM6/GM8 uses a column-mounted electric power steering (C-EPS) unit where the assist motor and torque sensor are integrated into the steering column assembly. The motor brushes and the torque sensor wiring harness connector are susceptible to moisture ingress through the firewall grommet and column shroud seams, causing intermittent assist dropout or, in advanced cases, complete assist failure. Honda issued a warranty extension on related EPS complaints in several markets, and DTC P0-series EPS codes stored in the body control module confirm electrical faults rather than mechanical ones.

    What you would notice

    • EPS warning light illuminating intermittently, particularly in wet or humid conditions
    • Sudden increase in steering effort at low speeds with no warning light

    Typically $800–$2,800 to put right.

Honda City service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Honda City. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Seventh Generation · 2020–2026 · 1.5L (LEB) - e:HEV Hybrid version

Hybrid

Due by distance

  1. 40,000 km

    Inspect the hybrid battery cooling fan intake for dust build-up and check the drivetrain fluid's general condition.

  2. 80,000 km

    Thorough inspection of the suspension bushings and check the brake pads, as regenerative braking often masks wear levels.

  3. 100,000 km

    Have the auxiliary belt inspected and confirm the hybrid components' coolant system is performing optimally.

Seventh Generation · 2020–2026 · 1.0L (P10A2) - VTEC Turbo version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    First major interval for a thorough transmission fluid flush to keep the CVT shifting smoothly.

  2. 80,000 km

    Inspect the cooling system hoses and auxiliary drive belts for surface cracking.

  3. 100,000 km

    Spark plugs are typically replaced here, alongside a comprehensive ignition system health check.

Sixth Generation · 2014–2020 · 1.5L (L15Z1) - i-VTEC Standard version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Major fluid service, including transmission fluid flush and spark plug inspection.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension components like sway bar links and bushings may start to show their age on New Zealand roads.

  3. 200,000 km

    Engine mount inspections become essential to maintain that smooth Honda idle.

Fifth Generation · 2008–2014 · 1.5L (L15A7) - i-VTEC Standard version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Comprehensive fluid flush, including transmission oil and coolant, keeps the i-VTEC system operating efficiently.

  2. 150,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension bushings and shocks, which often show wear after this distance on NZ roads.

  3. 200,000 km

    Focus on the ignition system - checking or replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils helps maintain the engine's original fuel economy.

Fourth Generation · 2002–2008 · 1.3L (L13A) - i-DSI Efficiency version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Double-check the suspension bushings and steering rack ends for natural wear.

  2. 200,000 km

    Ensure the cooling system components, like the radiator hoses, have been refreshed to keep the L13A engine running at its best.

  3. 250,000 km

    Ensure the alternator and starter motor have been inspected, as these items have performed a lot of duty cycles by this stage.

Fourth Generation · 2002–2008 · 1.5L (L15A) - VTEC Sport version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Suspension bushings and engine mounts are worth a friendly inspection for wear.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the condition of the alternator and starter motor, ensuring they perform efficiently.

  3. 200,000 km

    Have a professional look at the ignition system components, such as coil packs, to keep the L15A engine running smoothly.

Third Generation (Facelift) · 2000–2002 · 1.5L (D15B) - VTEC Performance version

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Cooling system components, such as the water pump and thermostat, have likely done a good amount of work by now.

  2. 200,000 km

    A prime time to ensure the suspension bushings and shocks have been refreshed to maintain that characteristic Honda nimble handling.

  3. 250,000 km

    Have a specialist verify the health of the engine seals and gaskets, which naturally settle over time.

Third Generation (Facelift) · 2000–2002 · 1.3L (D13B) - Base i-DSI

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Initial cooling system components, like the radiator cap and coolant hoses, may be nearing the end of their optimal service life.

  2. 150,000 km

    Verify whether the alternator and starter motor have been serviced, as these electrical components have done a solid decade of work by this stage.

  3. 200,000 km

    Ensure engine mounts have been inspected, as D13B engine vibrations can eventually lead to mount fatigue.

See all 11 documented issuesEverything researched for the Honda City, including 2 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Honda City has — 11Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling6

01i-DCD 7-speed dual-clutch failure (Grace hybrid)

Cold-start then drive in stop-go and up a hill, feeling for judder and shift hesitation.hybrid2013–2020Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02CVT (Earth Dreams) Belt Judder Under Light Load

Test drive at 30–50 km/h with light throttle on flat road — feel for a rhythmic shudder through the floor or seat.petrol2014–2020Transmission
CommonTransmission $250–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Honda City GM6 automatic variants use a CVT with a dry-start pushbelt design that is sensitive to degraded CVT fluid, particularly after intervals exceeding 40,000 km without a fluid change. Degraded fluid loses its friction-modifier package, causing the steel pushbelt to slip micro-incrementally against the pulley faces under light-load acceleration from low speeds, producing a characteristic judder or shudder felt through the drivetrain. Left unaddressed, belt-to-pulley contact wear accelerates and can require full CVT replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vibration or judder felt through the car body during gentle acceleration from 20–60 km/h
  • Shudder that disappears under firm throttle or at higher speeds
  • CVT fluid that is brown or smells burnt on inspection

What to check

  1. Test drive at 30–50 km/h with light throttle on flat road — feel for a rhythmic shudder through the floor or seat.
  2. Check CVT fluid colour on the dipstick (should be pink/red; brown indicates degradation).
  3. Verify service history for CVT fluid changes.

Where to look: Transaxle, left side of engine bay when viewed from front

Ask the seller

  • “When was the CVT fluid last changed, and do you have a service receipt?”
  • “Have you noticed any shuddering sensation when accelerating gently from slow speeds?”

03L13Z / L15Z Timing Chain Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start the engine and listen immediately for top-end rattle.petrol2009 onwardEngine
CommonEngine $900–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Honda City models using the L13Z and L15Z 1.3–1.5L engines share the same hydraulic timing chain tensioner design and documented cold-start rattle pattern as other Honda L-series small engines. Rattle is caused by slow oil pressure build-up at the tensioner and is exacerbated by infrequent oil changes or incorrect viscosity oil. The fault is documented by NZ and AU City owners across multiple model years.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine top end at cold start clearing within seconds
  • Rattle worsens progressively if oil changes are delayed
  • VVT or camshaft position fault codes
  • Occasional rough idle when fully cold

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine and listen immediately for top-end rattle.
  2. Check oil level and condition.
  3. Scan for VVT or timing chain related fault codes.
  4. Request oil service records.

Where to look: Engine front top end, timing chain cover driver's side

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car rattle on cold start before oil pressure builds?”
  • “What oil and service interval has been used?”
  • “Are there any engine fault codes present?”

04Low-pressure fuel pump impeller failure (recall)

Run the car's VIN through Honda's recall check to see if the fuel-pump recall applies and whether it has been completed.petrol2018–2020Engine
OccasionalEngine $0–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Later petrol City models (MY19-20) are caught in Honda's global low-pressure fuel-pump recall. The in-tank pump impeller was manufactured improperly and can swell/deform, so the pump becomes inoperative - the engine may fail to start or stall while driving, a safety risk. In Australia this is a formal recall covering Civic, City, Jazz, CR-V, HR-V and Accord from roughly 2018-2021. The free remedy is a pump replacement at a Honda dealer; the risk is an unrepaired imported or on-sold car.

Symptoms to notice

  • Long/hard cranking or no-start
  • Engine stalling or cutting out while driving
  • Hesitation or loss of power
  • Check-engine light for a fuel-system fault

What to check

Run the car's VIN through Honda's recall check to see if the fuel-pump recall applies and whether it has been completed; confirm reliable hot and cold starts; watch for any stall on the test drive.

Where to look: Fuel pump module inside the fuel tank (under rear of car / under rear seat access)

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the fuel-pump recall been carried out - do you have completion paperwork?”
  • “Has it ever failed to start or stalled unexpectedly?”
  • “Do you have the VIN so I can run Honda's recall check?”

05Fuel Injector Wiring Harness Vibration Failure (L15A)

Inspect the injector sub-harness visually along its full run for chafed or melted insulation at manifold bracket contact points.petrol2014–2020Engine
OccasionalEngine $200–$650 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The L15A 1.5 i-VTEC in the City GM8 routes the fuel injector sub-harness along the top of the intake manifold in a path that passes close to a sharp manifold bracket edge, and the harness is secured by a single plastic clip that can fatigue over time. Engine vibration causes the insulation at this contact point to chafe through over approximately 80,000–120,000 km of use, creating intermittent short circuits between injector signal wires and eventually causing injector misfires on the affected cylinder. The ECU stores misfire DTCs (P030X) and may activate the catalyst protection fuel-cut, which the owner often misdiagnoses as an injector failure itself rather than a wiring fault.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Single-cylinder misfire DTC (P0301–P0304) that moves cylinders or appears intermittently
  • Rough running or hesitation under load that clears temporarily but returns

What to check

  1. Inspect the injector sub-harness visually along its full run for chafed or melted insulation at manifold bracket contact points.
  2. Wiggle the harness at the suspect area with the engine running to reproduce the misfire.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Read OBD-II misfire DTCs (P0301–P0304) to identify the affected cylinder.

Where to look: Top of intake manifold, fuel injector sub-harness routing along manifold to injector rail

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the check engine light come on, and if so what code was found?”
  • “Has the engine ever misfired or run roughly under load?”

06Throttle Body Carbon Fouling (L13Z / L15A i-VTEC)

Check for sticky throttle plate movement by hand (ignition off).petrol2014–2020Engine
CommonEngine $80–$320 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The L13Z 1.3 and L15A 1.5 i-VTEC engines use a drive-by-wire electronic throttle body that accumulates carbon deposits on the throttle plate and bore wall over time, particularly in stop-start urban driving where intake temperatures cycle repeatedly through condensation ranges. As deposits build on the throttle plate edge, the ECU's learned idle adaptation reaches its authority limit, causing rough cold idle and throttle response hesitation that cannot be corrected by re-learning alone until the throttle body is physically cleaned or replaced.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough or hunting idle that is worse on cold start and settles after warm-up
  • Hesitation or stumble on light throttle tip-in from rest
  • Occasional idle drop or near-stall when coming to a stop

What to check

  1. Check for sticky throttle plate movement by hand (ignition off).
  2. If a workshop inspection is possible: Connect an OBD-II scanner and check throttle adaptation values for boundary limits.
  3. Remove the intake hose and inspect the throttle plate and bore with a torch for black carbon ring deposits.

Where to look: Intake manifold inlet, top of engine, accessible from front of engine bay

Ask the seller

  • “Has the throttle body ever been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “Does the engine idle smoothly when cold, or does it hunt?”
Electrical1

01Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

Check for illuminated EPS warning light in the instrument cluster.2014–2018Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $800–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The City GM6/GM8 uses a column-mounted electric power steering (C-EPS) unit where the assist motor and torque sensor are integrated into the steering column assembly. The motor brushes and the torque sensor wiring harness connector are susceptible to moisture ingress through the firewall grommet and column shroud seams, causing intermittent assist dropout or, in advanced cases, complete assist failure. Honda issued a warranty extension on related EPS complaints in several markets, and DTC P0-series EPS codes stored in the body control module confirm electrical faults rather than mechanical ones.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light illuminating intermittently, particularly in wet or humid conditions
  • Sudden increase in steering effort at low speeds with no warning light

What to check

Check for illuminated EPS warning light in the instrument cluster. Physically inspect the column motor connector under the dashboard for corrosion or moisture. Test steering effort at low speed for asymmetric heaviness. If a workshop inspection is possible: With an OBD-II scanner, read EPS-specific DTCs from the EPS control unit.

Where to look: Steering column, under dashboard on driver's side

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever come on?”
  • “Does the steering feel consistently light, or does it sometimes feel heavy and stiff?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the rubber boot for splitting or grease loss.2014–2020Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arm on the City GM6/GM8 uses a pressed-in ball joint that is not separately serviceable from the arm on most parts-supply channels, meaning wear requires arm replacement. The joint's polymer-lined socket wears under the combined radial and axial loads of front suspension travel, particularly in markets with variable road surfaces, causing increasing play that affects steering accuracy and allows the knuckle to move in ways the ABS and VSA sensors do not expect. Undetected wear can progress to sudden joint separation, which results in immediate loss of front wheel steering control.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps or during slow cornering
  • Vague or wandering steering feel with slight shimmy at highway speeds
  • Uneven or accelerated inner front tyre wear

What to check

Inspect the rubber boot for splitting or grease loss. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle safely raised on stands, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock positions and rock it to check for vertical play. Use a pry bar carefully under the lower arm to feel for ball joint movement.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, inboard of front wheel on both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension ever been inspected for ball joint play?”
  • “Do you hear any clunking from the front when going over speed bumps?”

02Rear Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

Inspect the rear trailing arm forward pivot bushes visually for radial cracking or rubber extrusion.2014–2020Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $300–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The City GM6/GM8 uses a torsion-beam rear suspension where the trailing arms locate through large rubber compliance bushes pressed into the body subframe. These bushes are subject to continuous torsional deflection under braking and acceleration, and the natural rubber compound used degrades with age and exposure to road contaminants, leading to cracking and eventual void collapse within the bush. Collapsed rear bushes allow the rear axle to shift fore-aft under load, causing unpredictable rear-end steering behaviour under hard braking and a noticeable clunk when the throttle is applied or released from rest.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk or thud from the rear when pulling away from rest or lifting off the throttle
  • Rear of vehicle feels loose or skittish under firm braking

What to check

  1. Inspect the rear trailing arm forward pivot bushes visually for radial cracking or rubber extrusion.
  2. Look for dark rubber smear marks around the bush housing.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, use a pry bar to check for fore-aft movement of the trailing arm at its body mount.

Where to look: Rear trailing arm forward pivot point, body attachment at both sides of the rear axle

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear suspension bushes been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Does the rear feel stable under hard braking, or does it feel like it shifts sideways?”

03Front and Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Inspect the rubber boots for splits or displacement.2014–2020Brakes
CommonBrakes $150–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The City GM6/GM8 uses sliding-type brake calipers front and rear where the caliper body floats on two steel guide pins that are coated in rubber boots filled with brake grease. In humid or coastal environments, the boots crack with age and allow moisture to contact the pin and its aluminium bracket bore, causing galvanic corrosion that locks the guide pin in place. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from retracting after brake application, causing the outer pad to remain pressed against the rotor, leading to rapid pad wear on one side, rotor scoring, and brake drag that generates heat sufficient to cause brake fluid boil in extreme cases.

Symptoms to notice

  • Uneven brake pad wear with the outer pad significantly thinner than the inner pad on the same axle
  • Brake drag, pulling to one side under braking, or a hot wheel/burning smell after normal driving

What to check

  1. Inspect the rubber boots for splits or displacement.
  2. Compare inner and outer pad thickness; a significant difference indicates guide pin seizure on that caliper.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the wheel and check if the caliper slides freely on its guide pins by hand — both pins should move smoothly with finger pressure.

Where to look: Front and rear brake caliper guide pin bores at each corner of the vehicle

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the brake calipers been serviced and guide pins greased in the last two years?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side when braking?”

04Front Wheel Bearing Premature Wear

Lift front wheels and spin by hand feeling for roughness or grinding.petrol2009 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $350–$650 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front wheel bearing failures are reported on Honda City models at lower-than-expected mileages, particularly on vehicles used on New Zealand unsealed or gravel roads and high-odometer imports. The integrated hub-bearing design on later GM and GN variants increases replacement cost over serviceable units. Failures are commonly flagged at WOF inspections in NZ.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or growling noise that varies with vehicle speed
  • Noise shifts when gently steering left or right at 80+ km/h
  • Vibration through steering wheel at highway speeds
  • Roughness when spinning a raised front wheel by hand

What to check

  1. Lift front wheels and spin by hand feeling for roughness or grinding.
  2. Rock each wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions.
  3. Test drive at highway speed and note if a hum changes direction with steering input.

Where to look: Front hub assemblies, driver and passenger sides

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Has there ever been a humming noise at highway speed?”
  • “Have the front wheel bearings been replaced?”
  • “Is there a WOF history showing bearing advisories or fails?”

Honda City faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Honda City’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Honda models

Honda City buyer questions

Is the Honda City reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 11 documented faults for the Honda City, the recurring problem areas are transmission, suspension, and electrical. A Honda City with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Honda City?

We've catalogued 11 known faults for the Honda City, covering transmission, suspension, and electrical. All 11 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Honda City?

Most single repairs on the Honda City fall between $300–$900 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 11 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Honda City?

Yes. A Honda City inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.