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Honda2008–2024 Critical issues documented

Honda Freed GB3: common faults & what to check

The GB3 is the Honda Freed built 2008–2016. It was sold here with the 1.5 petrol. Of the 23 faults documented for the Freed, 11 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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23

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$1,300

Typical repair

33

Service milestones

You're looking at the GB3 · 1.5 petrol

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it?

1.5 petrol· 1.5 litre petrol

A 2008 Honda Freed is the GB3 generation (2008 to 2016).

Start your free check on this Honda Freed

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Honda Freed GB3

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Honda Freed · 2008

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Honda Freed before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    With the vehicle stationary, turn the steering wheel fully left and right slowly and listen for a knock or crunch from the strut top area.

    See why

    Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Collapse

    Front strut top mounts and upper bearings on the Freed fail with age and mileage, causing clunking over bumps, imprecise steering and a knocking sensation when turning at low speed. The tall body and relatively firm suspension of the Freed place higher-than-average loads on the strut top bearings. Failure is common on import vehicles that have exceeded 120,000km without front suspension servicing.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking noise from front suspension when traversing speed bumps or sharp dips
    • Steering feeling vague or lacking centred return
    • Knocking or crunching sound when turning steering from lock to lock at low speed
    • Uneven front tyre wear from changed suspension geometry

    Typically $350–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Scan for EPS fault codes.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

    EPS column motor fails causing sudden or gradual loss of power assistance.

    What you would notice

    • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
    • Heavy steering requiring effort especially at low speeds

    Typically $500–$1,800 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Cycle the powered sliding door five to ten times and listen for grinding or hesitation at any point in travel.

    See why

    Power Sliding Door Track Roller Wear Causing Hesitation

    The power sliding door system on the GB3/GB4 Freed uses nylon-coated steel track rollers that deteriorate through age, UV exposure, and lack of periodic lubrication. Worn rollers cause the door to hesitate mid-travel, reverse direction, or falsely trigger the obstacle-detection safety system and halt movement. In NZ grey imports the upper centre track roller is the most frequent single failure point. The condition worsens in winter and after high-pressure washing when dried lubricant residue accumulates in the lower track channel and increases rolling resistance.

    What you would notice

    • Power sliding door hesitates or pauses noticeably mid-travel
    • Door reverses direction and re-opens without any obstruction being present
    • Grinding, clicking, or scraping noise audible during door movement
    • Door requires multiple button presses to complete a full open or close cycle
    • Door operates smoothly when moved manually but hesitates under motor power

    Typically $250–$850 to put right.

  • Worth checking

    Connect AC manifold gauges and start the system — in a blockage the low-side pressure will collapse below 0 psi while high-side climbs above normal.

    See why

    Air conditioning expansion valve blockage

    The Freed's climate control system uses a thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) to meter refrigerant from the high-pressure liquid line into the evaporator. Moisture contamination of the refrigerant circuit — caused by infrequent AC use, a leaking Schrader valve, or improper regas work — allows ice crystals or acid sludge to accumulate in the small orifice of the expansion valve. The blockage restricts refrigerant flow to the evaporator, causing the system to blow warm air despite the compressor running normally. In partial blockage the AC may work intermittently, appearing to clear itself when the ice melts during defrost cycles only to block again under sustained use. Complete system flush, receiver-drier replacement, and TXV replacement is required; refrigerant charge correction alone will not resolve the fault.

    What you would notice

    • Air conditioning blows warm or barely cool air despite compressor clutch engaging audibly
    • AC works intermittently — cool in the morning, warm after sustained motorway running
    • Frost or ice visible on the liquid line pipe or expansion valve body
    • High-side pressure abnormally elevated while low-side pressure drops near zero during blockage
    • Icing or heavy condensation on the AC evaporator housing

    Typically $350–$850 to put right.

Honda Freed service schedule

The 2 engines a 2008 Honda Freed was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Honda Freed 1st Gen (Pre-facelift) · 2008–2011 · 1.5L L15A i-VTEC - 4WD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Inspect spark plugs and check for seepage around the valve cover gasket.

  2. 150,000 km

    Strut mounts and lower control arm bushings might show signs of age around this window.

  3. 200,000 km

    Check the cooling system, including the radiator, for any brittle plastic tank seals.

Honda Freed 1st Gen (Pre-facelift) · 2008–2011 · 1.5L L15A i-VTEC - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Spark plugs and ancillary belts might need a look if not documented.

  2. 150,000 km

    Inspect the engine mounts - vibration from the 1.5L engine can wear these components down over time.

  3. 200,000 km

    Have a specialist inspect the CVT fluid condition and internal filters for long-term preventative care.

See all 11 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.
Engine, transmission & cooling1

01Air conditioning expansion valve blockage

Connect AC manifold gauges and start the system — in a blockage the low-side pressure will collapse below 0 psi while high-side climbs above normal.petrol2008 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $350–$850 to fix

The Freed's climate control system uses a thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) to meter refrigerant from the high-pressure liquid line into the evaporator. Moisture contamination of the refrigerant circuit — caused by infrequent AC use, a leaking Schrader valve, or improper regas work — allows ice crystals or acid sludge to accumulate in the small orifice of the expansion valve. The blockage restricts refrigerant flow to the evaporator, causing the system to blow warm air despite the compressor running normally. In partial blockage the AC may work intermittently, appearing to clear itself when the ice melts during defrost cycles only to block again under sustained use. Complete system flush, receiver-drier replacement, and TXV replacement is required; refrigerant charge correction alone will not resolve the fault.

Symptoms to notice

  • Air conditioning blows warm or barely cool air despite compressor clutch engaging audibly
  • AC works intermittently — cool in the morning, warm after sustained motorway running
  • Frost or ice visible on the liquid line pipe or expansion valve body
  • High-side pressure abnormally elevated while low-side pressure drops near zero during blockage
  • Icing or heavy condensation on the AC evaporator housing

What to check

Connect AC manifold gauges and start the system — in a blockage the low-side pressure will collapse below 0 psi while high-side climbs above normal. Feel the expansion valve body for unexpected frost or ice formation. Ask when the AC was last regassed and whether a receiver-drier was replaced at the same time. A UV dye check can identify past leak points that allowed moisture ingress into the refrigerant circuit.

Where to look: Expansion valve on firewall-side of evaporator housing, accessible from engine bay at the base of the windscreen

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning blow cold consistently, or does it fade during long drives?”
  • “When was the AC last regassed, and was the receiver-drier replaced at the same time?”
  • “Has the system ever lost its refrigerant charge, and if so was the leak found and repaired?”
Electrical1

02Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2008–2016Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $500–$1,800 to fix

EPS column motor fails causing sudden or gradual loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — heavy or inconsistent feel warrants investigation.

Where to look: EPS column motor and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering column motor been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical6

03Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

2008 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $380–$750 to fix

The pressed-in ball joint at the outboard end of the front lower control arm on the Freed wears its nylon/PTFE bearing liner through normal suspension articulation, with wear accelerated by New Zealand's unsealed roads and the absence of a grease nipple for field lubrication. Once the liner wears, the ball stud develops radial and axial play, causing knocking noises over bumps and progressive front wheel alignment change. Honda supplies the lower arm as an assembly on these models rather than a serviceable ball joint insert, meaning the repair is a complete arm replacement rather than a joint press-out.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over speed bumps, potholes, or rough corners
  • Front tyre wear that is uneven across the tread width, indicating alignment shift from ball joint play
  • Vague or wandering steering feel at motorway speeds as the loose joint allows the steering axis to shift

What to check

With the front wheels raised and supported, grasp each tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock firmly to check for play — ball joint play is felt as a distinct knock or visible movement at the arm-to-knuckle joint. Also push and pull the tyre at 3 and 9 o'clock to isolate tie rod end versus ball joint. Inspect the ball joint dust boot for cracking or grease loss.

Where to look: Outboard end of each front lower control arm, behind the front wheels

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected recently and are the lower control arms original?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front end over bumps or when turning at low speed?”

04Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Rattle

2008 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,800 to fix

The Freed uses a column-assist electric power steering system in which the rack and pinion assembly relies on a Teflon-coated rack bush to maintain zero-lash contact between the rack bar and housing. As this bush wears and the preload spring behind the rack adjuster plug relaxes, the rack develops radial play inside the housing, causing a distinct rattle or clunk over sharp bumps and road irregularities. Honda issued a technical service bulletin for this condition on several i-VTEC models, specifying a rack adjuster tightening procedure and bush replacement — full rack replacement is required when the scoring on the rack bar has progressed beyond what an adjuster adjustment can compensate.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling or clunking sound from the steering rack area when driving over rough road surfaces, speed bumps, or sharp pot holes
  • Slight looseness or vagueness in the steering around the centred position on a straight road
  • Rattle worsens in cold conditions and diminishes once the steering fluid and rack have warmed

What to check

With the vehicle on level ground, have an assistant turn the steering wheel 10–15 degrees left and right while you listen and feel under the bonnet at the steering rack for the rattle source. Also grasp the steering rack housing and attempt to rock it on its mounts to check mounting bush integrity. Check the adjuster plug on the rack housing has not backed off — a gap between the plug and locking nut indicates it has.

Where to look: Steering rack assembly mounted behind the engine, forward of the firewall, spanning the engine bay between the front strut towers

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any rattle or knocking sound from the front end when you drive over bumps or rough roads?”
  • “Has the steering ever felt loose or wandering around the straight-ahead position?”

05Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Collapse

With the vehicle stationary, turn the steering wheel fully left and right slowly and listen for a knock or crunch from the strut top area.petrol2008–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Front strut top mounts and upper bearings on the Freed fail with age and mileage, causing clunking over bumps, imprecise steering and a knocking sensation when turning at low speed. The tall body and relatively firm suspension of the Freed place higher-than-average loads on the strut top bearings. Failure is common on import vehicles that have exceeded 120,000km without front suspension servicing.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking noise from front suspension when traversing speed bumps or sharp dips
  • Steering feeling vague or lacking centred return
  • Knocking or crunching sound when turning steering from lock to lock at low speed
  • Uneven front tyre wear from changed suspension geometry

What to check

With the vehicle stationary, turn the steering wheel fully left and right slowly and listen for a knock or crunch from the strut top area. Drive slowly over a speed bump and listen for a clunk from the front end. Visually inspect strut top mounts in the engine bay for cracks, separation or rubber deterioration.

Where to look: Front strut top mount bearings, inside engine bay at base of windscreen on both sides

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected or serviced recently?”
  • “Are there any knocking or clunking noises from the front end over bumps or when turning?”

06Rear Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

The Freed's torsion-beam rear axle uses large rubber bushings at the forward mounting point of each trailing arm.2008 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $300–$700 to fix

The Freed's torsion-beam rear axle uses large rubber bushings at the forward mounting point of each trailing arm. These bushings are bonded rubber-to-metal components that hydrolyse and fatigue over time, particularly in New Zealand's wet climate, leading to progressive rubber breakdown and eventual void formation inside the bush. As the bush collapses, the trailing arm migrates rearward under braking and load, altering rear wheel camber and toe angles beyond specification — typically introducing negative camber and toe-out — which causes abnormal rear tyre wear and a noticeably loose rear end under hard cornering or braking.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear tyre wear concentrated on the inner shoulder, indicating negative camber from bush collapse
  • Vehicle tramlines or wanders under braking, particularly on road crowns
  • Clunking from the rear axle when reversing or under initial forward acceleration

What to check

  1. Inspect the outer rubber of the trailing arm bush for cracking, splitting, or distortion — a bush that has rotated on its outer sleeve indicates the rubber bond has failed.
  2. Check the inner bore for debris and the surrounding bracket for rust that may hide the full extent of collapse.
  3. Rear tyre wear that is heavier on the inner shoulder than the outer is a strong indicator.

Where to look: Forward mounting bolt of each rear trailing arm, inside the rear subframe bracket

Ask the seller

  • “Has rear tyre wear been even across the tread, or are the inner edges worn faster?”
  • “Has the rear suspension ever been inspected or the trailing arm bushes replaced?”

07Front Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

2008 onwardBrakes
CommonBrakes $150–$550 to fix

The front brake calipers on the Freed use sliding-pin design in which the caliper body floats on two steel guide pins coated in high-temperature grease and sealed with rubber boots. In New Zealand's wet environment, road salt and moisture penetrate degraded or cracked boots, causing the guide pins to corrode and seize in their bores, preventing the caliper from sliding freely. A seized guide pin holds the outboard brake pad permanently against the disc while the inboard pad retracts normally on release, causing severe uneven pad wear, brake pull to the seized side, and disc scoring. In advanced cases the pad on the seized side overheats, glazes, and reduces braking efficiency significantly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, consistently pulling toward the side with the seized caliper
  • One front wheel significantly hotter than the other after normal driving, indicating constant pad drag
  • Uneven brake pad thickness between inboard and outboard pads, or between left and right sides

What to check

After a short drive, check that both front wheels are equally warm by placing your hand near (not on) the disc — a significantly hotter wheel indicates a seized guide pin dragging the pad. Inspect both rubber boots for cracking or tearing that has admitted moisture. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the caliper and attempt to slide each guide pin by hand; a seized pin will not move or move only with excessive force.

Where to look: Front brake caliper bracket at each front wheel, inboard of the brake disc

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car pull to one side when braking, even gently?”
  • “When were the front brake pads last replaced and were the guide pins cleaned and greased at the same time?”

08Power Sliding Door Track Roller Wear Causing Hesitation

Cycle the powered sliding door five to ten times and listen for grinding or hesitation at any point in travel.petrol2008–2016Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $250–$850 to fix

The power sliding door system on the GB3/GB4 Freed uses nylon-coated steel track rollers that deteriorate through age, UV exposure, and lack of periodic lubrication. Worn rollers cause the door to hesitate mid-travel, reverse direction, or falsely trigger the obstacle-detection safety system and halt movement. In NZ grey imports the upper centre track roller is the most frequent single failure point. The condition worsens in winter and after high-pressure washing when dried lubricant residue accumulates in the lower track channel and increases rolling resistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power sliding door hesitates or pauses noticeably mid-travel
  • Door reverses direction and re-opens without any obstruction being present
  • Grinding, clicking, or scraping noise audible during door movement
  • Door requires multiple button presses to complete a full open or close cycle
  • Door operates smoothly when moved manually but hesitates under motor power

What to check

  1. Cycle the powered sliding door five to ten times and listen for grinding or hesitation at any point in travel.
  2. Inspect all three track rails — upper, lower, and centre — for dirt accumulation, dried grease, and roller surface condition.
  3. Move the door manually by hand to locate any binding points.
  4. Check the rubber door seal is not snagging on the track channel.
  5. Verify door motor current draw if diagnostic equipment is available, as a laboured motor combined with worn rollers accelerates both failures simultaneously.

Where to look: Rear sliding door, upper, lower and centre door tracks, door rollers and hinge arm assemblies

Ask the seller

  • “Does the power sliding door always complete its cycle in one smooth movement?”
  • “Have the door tracks and rollers been lubricated or serviced recently?”
  • “Has the sliding door ever reversed or stopped unexpectedly during operation?”
  • “Is there any noise from the sliding door during normal operation?”
Depends on the exact engine — 3 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

01L15A Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen at the front-right of the engine bay for chain rattle lasting more than 3 seconds.petrol2008–2016EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02L15A Throttle Body Carbon Fouling

Rough idle that returns after cleaning indicates valve stem issues.petrol2008–2016Engine
CommonEngine $80–$300 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Honda Freed GB3/GB4 L15A 1.5 throttle body butterfly valve and bore accumulate carbon deposits from crankcase vapours, particularly on urban short-trip examples. Carbon build-up causes a rough hunting idle and hesitation from rest.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle fluctuating between 600 and 900rpm at operating temperature
  • Hesitation and stumble from rest at light throttle

What to check

Rough idle that returns after cleaning indicates valve stem issues. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the intake hose and inspect the throttle body bore and butterfly valve for grey-black carbon deposits.

Where to look: Throttle body on intake manifold of L15A engine

Ask the seller

  • “Has the l15a throttle body carbon fouling been inspected or repaired?”
Fluid leaks1

01L15A VTEC Solenoid O-Ring Oil Leak

VTEC solenoid O-ring hardens and shrinks allowing oil to seep from cylinder head.2008–2017Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks

Can't confirm for this car

VTEC solenoid O-ring hardens and shrinks allowing oil to seep from cylinder head.

Symptoms to notice

  • VTEC solenoid O-ring hardens and shrinks allowing oil to seep from cylinder head.
  • Confirm with pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic

What to check

VTEC solenoid O-ring hardens and shrinks allowing oil to seep from cylinder head.

Where to look: See description

Parts involved: Cylinder head.

Other Honda Freed engines and years12 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling6

01CVT Start-Clutch Judder Under Light Throttle

petrol2016 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02i-DCD 7-Speed Dual Clutch Shudder at Low Speed

Check whether software updates have been applied — Honda dealers can confirm via VIN.hybrid2016 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Internal Chain-Driven Water Pump Seal Failure

Check the coolant reservoir level and inspect whether it has been topped up repeatedly.petrol2016 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $900–$2,500 to fix

Does not apply

The L15B engine uses a water pump driven internally by the timing chain rather than an external belt, meaning seal or bearing failure cannot be detected by external visual inspection of the belt drive area. When the internal seal fails, coolant can leak past the pump body and in severe cases enter the engine oil, causing milky contamination. Symptoms include progressive coolant level loss with no visible external leak, engine temperature rising above normal, and in worst-case scenarios, catastrophic overheating if the failure is missed. This fault has been reported on Freed models with high mileage or vehicles that have not had coolant flushed on schedule.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine coolant level dropping progressively with no visible external leak
  • Temperature gauge rising above normal operating midpoint
  • Sweet coolant smell from the engine bay after driving
  • Oil dipstick showing milky or frothy oil in severe cases indicating coolant contamination
  • Overheating warning light in advanced failure

What to check

  1. Check the coolant reservoir level and inspect whether it has been topped up repeatedly.
  2. Check service history for coolant flush intervals.
  3. Start the engine cold and observe the temperature gauge for any rise above the midpoint during normal warm-up.
  4. Ask whether the coolant has ever been topped up between service intervals.
  5. Remove the engine oil dipstick and inspect for any creamy or frothy discolouration that would indicate coolant contamination.

Where to look: Internally mounted on the timing chain case, front of engine block

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the coolant ever needed topping up between scheduled services?”
  • “Has the engine ever overheated or shown a high-temperature warning?”
  • “When was the last full coolant flush performed, and was any contamination found?”

04i-MMD Electric Water Pump Bearing Wear & Overtemperature

With engine running at idle, listen for bearing noise from the electric coolant pump location on the hybrid cooling circuit.hybrid2024 onwardCooling
OccasionalCooling $850–$2,400 to fix

Does not apply

The electronically controlled coolant circulation pump integrated into the GB8 i-MMD hybrid thermal management system develops progressive bearing wear after extended service. Increased internal bearing clearance reduces pump efficiency and generates a persistent whining or grinding noise at idle. As bearing failure advances, coolant flow to the motor-generator stators and power control unit becomes insufficient, triggering hybrid overtemperature warnings and forcing the system into a reduced-power thermal protection mode to prevent damage to the high-voltage drive components.

Symptoms to notice

  • Persistent whining or grinding noise from engine bay, most audible at idle
  • Hybrid system overtemperature warning displayed on instrument cluster
  • Vehicle enters reduced power mode during normal driving without high load
  • Coolant temperature gauge rising above normal operating range

What to check

With engine running at idle, listen for bearing noise from the electric coolant pump location on the hybrid cooling circuit. Inspect coolant for discolouration or metallic debris indicating bearing breakdown. If a workshop inspection is possible: Use a diagnostic scan tool to check for overtemperature fault codes and verify commanded versus actual pump output.

Where to look: Electric coolant pump on front engine accessory area, hybrid cooling circuit

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric water pump ever been replaced?”
  • “Has a hybrid overtemperature warning light ever appeared?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever entered reduced power mode without obvious cause such as heavy load?”

05L15B timing chain tensioner cold-start rattle

Cold-start the vehicle after overnight rest and listen for chain rattle at the front of the engine.petrol2016 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06VTC Actuator Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for a metallic rattle from the top of the engine lasting 1–3 seconds.petrol2016 onwardEngine
CommonEngine $500–$1,300 to fix

Does not apply

The Variable Timing Control (VTC) actuator lock pin fails to hold the vane firmly inside the housing when oil pressure is low at cold start, allowing the vane to rotate freely and produce a harsh metallic rattle lasting 1–3 seconds. The fault is inherent to the L15B camshaft phaser design and is documented across multiple Honda platforms sharing this engine. Left unrepaired, repeated cold-start impact can accelerate camshaft sprocket wear and ultimately affect valve timing accuracy.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud metallic rattling noise from engine top for 1–3 seconds on cold start only
  • Noise disappears completely once oil pressure builds
  • Check Engine light may appear in advanced cases with VTC-related fault codes (P0341, P0342)
  • Occasional rough idle during the first few seconds of cold start
  • Noise worsens in cold ambient temperatures below 10°C

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for a metallic rattle from the top of the engine lasting 1–3 seconds. If the noise disappears within a few seconds of starting it is almost certainly the VTC actuator. Ask the seller to arrange a cold-start test — do not accept a warm engine.

Where to look: Top of engine, intake camshaft end, behind the valve cover

Ask the seller

  • “Has the VTC actuator ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Can we arrange a cold-start test first thing in the morning before the engine has been warmed up?”
  • “Have any engine-top rattling noises been noticed on cold mornings?”
Electrical6

01High-Voltage Traction Battery Capacity Degradation

The lithium-ion high-voltage traction battery in GB7 Freed Sport Hybrid models loses capacity gradually with age and accumulated charge cycles.hybrid2016 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $4,500–$13,000 to fix

Does not apply

The lithium-ion high-voltage traction battery in GB7 Freed Sport Hybrid models loses capacity gradually with age and accumulated charge cycles. Capacity degradation below 70–80% of original specification is noticeable as reduced EV cruising range and more frequent engine engagement at low speeds. Extreme heat, repeated deep discharge events, and the hybrid battery coolant pump failing (which allows thermal stress) all accelerate degradation. Honda's hybrid battery warranty covers degradation beyond normal limits for 8 years from new; vehicles outside warranty face significant replacement costs.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine starts and runs frequently during low-speed urban driving where it should be in EV mode
  • Hybrid battery charge gauge fluctuates rapidly or depletes quickly on short trips
  • Reduced fuel economy compared to published figures by 15% or more
  • READY light takes longer to illuminate on cold mornings
  • DTC P0A7F (hybrid battery degradation) stored in hybrid control module

What to check

  1. Note how often the petrol engine runs at low speeds and in urban traffic — a healthy i-MMD Freed should drive primarily on electric power at speeds below 40 km/h.
  2. Ask for any hybrid battery health reports from dealer scans.
  3. Check for diagnostic code P0A7F which indicates traction battery degradation beyond acceptable limits.
  4. Verify whether the car is still within Honda's 8-year hybrid battery warranty period.

Where to look: High-voltage battery pack housed under the rear floor, behind the rear seat

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Is the vehicle still within Honda's 8-year hybrid battery warranty, and has the warranty been registered?”
  • “Has a dealer ever performed a hybrid battery health or capacity check?”
  • “Has the fuel economy noticeably decreased compared to when the car was new?”

02Electric Power Steering Motor or Torque Sensor Failure

During the test drive, check that the EPS warning light does not illuminate at any point.2016 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Does not apply

The Freed uses a column-type Electric Power Steering (EPS) system with an electric motor and torque sensor mounted on the steering column. Failures occur in both the motor itself and the torque sensor, which can lose calibration or develop an electrical fault, triggering the EPS warning light and reverting the steering to manual effort. A low or unstable 12V supply voltage is a contributing factor that can trigger false EPS warnings, but genuine motor winding and torque sensor failures are also documented. Honda extended the warranty on EPS rack/torque sensor faults on several platforms when the pattern became widespread.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster
  • Steering suddenly becoming heavy and requiring significantly more effort to turn
  • Intermittent loss of power steering assistance that clears after engine restart
  • Stiffness or binding sensation through the steering wheel at low speed
  • Multiple warning lights appearing simultaneously alongside EPS light, often triggered by 12V supply instability

What to check

During the test drive, check that the EPS warning light does not illuminate at any point. At low speeds such as parking manoeuvres, check that steering assistance feels consistent and does not suddenly become heavy. Scan for stored or pending EPS fault codes before purchase. Check whether the EPS warning light has ever illuminated in the service history notes. The fault is more likely on vehicles that have had 12V battery issues.

Where to look: Steering column assembly, under the dashboard on the driver's side

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Has the steering ever felt unusually heavy or inconsistent?”
  • “Has any power steering or steering column work been carried out?”

03IMA Battery NiMH Cell Degradation

Scan for active DTCs including P1447, P1449, and P1568.hybrid2011–2016ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

0412V Auxiliary Battery Premature Failure in Hybrid Models

Use a 12V battery tester to check voltage under load — a healthy battery should hold above 12.4V at rest and above 9.6V under load.hybrid2016 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05i-MMD Auxiliary 12V Battery Drain Causes Ready Lockout

Check the production date stamp on the 12V battery; over 4 years warrants preventive replacement.hybrid2024 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Power Sliding Door Conductor Reel Failure

Operate both power sliding doors repeatedly from all controls — dashboard button, door button, and key fob.2016 onwardElectrical
CommonElectrical $400–$950 to fix

Does not apply

Freed models equipped with the optional power sliding doors use a spiral conductor reel (cable reel assembly) mounted in the B-pillar to carry electrical power and signals through the sliding door's full range of travel. The reel's internal ribbon cable develops fatigue cracks from repeated door cycling, causing intermittent or total loss of the power sliding door function. The door may refuse to respond to buttons, open or close partway, or trigger a door fault warning. On high-use examples the reel typically fails between 80,000–130,000 km.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power sliding door fails to open or close when button is pressed
  • Door stops partway through travel and reverses automatically
  • Door works intermittently — sometimes correctly, sometimes not
  • Grinding or clicking from the B-pillar area during door travel
  • Power door fault warning light or door-open indicator stays on

What to check

  1. Operate both power sliding doors repeatedly from all controls — dashboard button, door button, and key fob.
  2. Cycle each door open and closed at least five times and listen for grinding, hesitation, or incomplete travel.
  3. Check whether the door stops midway or reverses without obstruction.
  4. Inspect the door-ajar warning display for any fault indication.
  5. Ask whether either sliding door has ever been manually overridden.

Where to look: B-pillar sliding door conductor reel, behind the inner B-pillar trim on the affected door side

Ask the seller

  • “Have either power sliding doors ever malfunctioned, stopped midway, or needed repair?”
  • “Has the vehicle been in any door or sill damage incidents?”
  • “Do both doors operate smoothly from all button locations — inside, outside and the remote fob?”

Honda Freed faults in detail

Narrowed to the Honda Freed · 2008. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

L15A Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start RattleMajor · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Honda Freed’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Honda models

Honda CR-V59 documented faultsHonda Accord55 documented faultsHonda Jazz51 documented faultsHonda Stream22 documented faultsHonda Fit Shuttle19 documented faultsHonda Grace18 documented faults

Honda Freed buyer questions

Is the Honda Freed reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 23 documented faults for the Honda Freed, the recurring problem areas are suspension, electrical, and transmission. A Honda Freed with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Honda Freed?

We've catalogued 23 known faults for the Honda Freed, covering suspension, electrical, and transmission. All 23 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Honda Freed?

Most single repairs on the Honda Freed fall between $400–$1,300 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 23 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Honda Freed?

Yes. A Honda Freed inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.