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MajorVery commonEngine

Jeep Cherokee: 2.8 CRD inlet manifold sooting and EGR coking

2.8 CRD inlet manifold sooting and EGR coking is a very common engine fault on the Jeep Cherokee on the 2008–2013 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $600 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 18 documented faults on the Jeep Cherokee.

Vehicle
Jeep Cherokee
Engine
2.8L
Years
2008–2013
Fuel
diesel
System
Engine

This page covers the Jeep Cherokee as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Jeep Cherokee faults18 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Intake manifold or EGR valve yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

Like most common-rail diesels of its era, the 2.8 CRD recirculates exhaust gas and crankcase fumes back into the inlet, and the combination bakes into a thick oily tar that progressively blocks the inlet manifold and EGR passages. Short trips and town use accelerate it badly. The result is gradual power loss, poor economy and smoke, and because it comes on slowly many owners never notice how much performance has been lost. Cleaning is labour-intensive rather than expensive in parts. This engine also drives its camshafts by belt and is an interference design, so timing belt history is worth establishing at the same time — a snapped belt destroys the engine.

What you would notice

  • Gradual loss of power, particularly noticeable uphill or when loaded
  • Black smoke under acceleration
  • Worse fuel economy than expected
  • Engine warning light with EGR or airflow codes, or intermittent limp mode

How to check it

Where to look. Inlet manifold and EGR valve/passages on the engine

  1. On the test drive, find a hill or load the car up and accelerate through the mid range — a healthy 2.8 CRD pulls strongly, and a doughy engine that runs out of breath is the main symptom.

  2. Have a helper follow or watch your mirrors for black smoke under hard acceleration.

  3. Ask the owner what fuel economy they actually get and what sort of driving the car does; a diesel used only for short town trips is the worst case for this.

  4. Check the dash for an engine light and ask whether it has ever gone into limp mode.

  5. Look at the engine bay for oily residue around inlet joints.

  6. Ask directly when the timing belt was last done and for the invoice, since this is an interference engine.

  7. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the inlet and EGR inspected with a borescope and the fault memory read for EGR flow and airflow deviation codes.

Parts involved: Intake manifold, EGR valve.

What it costs to put right

$600 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced, and do you have the invoice?”
  • “Has the inlet manifold or EGR ever been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “What sort of driving does the car mostly do, and what economy do you get?”

Now check the Jeep Cherokee you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in published sources — owner forums, technical service bulletins, recall notices and workshop write-ups — held in our fault database. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them, and it is a starting point for an inspection rather than a manufacturer statement.

Jeep Cherokee buyer questions

Is 2.8 crd inlet manifold sooting and egr coking serious on a Jeep Cherokee?

We rate it major and very common on the Jeep Cherokee. Like most common-rail diesels of its era, the 2.8 CRD recirculates exhaust gas and crankcase fumes back into the inlet, and the combination bakes into a thick oily tar that progressively blocks the inlet manifold and EGR passages. Short trips and town use accelerate it badly. The result is gradual power loss, poor economy and smoke, and because it comes on slowly many owners never notice how much performance has been lost. Cleaning is labour-intensive rather than expensive in parts. This engine also drives its camshafts by belt and is an interference design, so timing belt history is worth establishing at the same time — a snapped belt destroys the engine.

How much does it cost to fix on a Jeep Cherokee?

$600 to $2,500 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Jeep Cherokee years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2008–2013 Jeep Cherokee. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

On the test drive, find a hill or load the car up and accelerate through the mid range — a healthy 2.8 CRD pulls strongly, and a doughy engine that runs out of breath is the main symptom. Have a helper follow or watch your mirrors for black smoke under hard acceleration. Ask the owner what fuel economy they actually get and what sort of driving the car does; a diesel used only for short town trips is the worst case for this. Check the dash for an engine light and ask whether it has ever gone into limp mode. Look at the engine bay for oily residue around inlet joints. Ask directly when the timing belt was last done and for the invoice, since this is an interference engine. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the inlet and EGR inspected with a borescope and the fault memory read for EGR flow and airflow deviation codes. Look here: Inlet manifold and EGR valve/passages on the engine