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Jeep Cherokee: DPF blockage, particulate sensor faults and EGR sooting (2.0 and 2.2 MultiJet II diesel)

DPF blockage, particulate sensor faults and EGR sooting (2.0 and 2.2 MultiJet II diesel) is a common engine fault on the Jeep Cherokee on the 2014–2021 cars, and we rate it major. Putting it right costs $300 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. Below is what goes wrong, the symptoms to notice on a test drive, where to look, and what to ask the seller before you hand over any money. It is one of 18 documented faults on the Jeep Cherokee.

Vehicle
Jeep Cherokee
Engine
2.0L / 2.2L
Years
2014–2021
Fuel
diesel
System
Engine

This page covers the Jeep Cherokee as a model. Some faults only affect particular engines or build years — enter a plate below to narrow the list to one car.

All Jeep Cherokee faults18 documented faults on this model

What you are looking at

No photograph available

We do not hold a verified photograph of the Diesel particulate filter or EGR valve yet. We would rather show none than show a picture of a different part.

What goes wrong

The 2.0 and later 2.2 MultiJet II diesels in the KL Cherokee run both EGR and a diesel particulate filter (DPF), and on short trips and town driving the DPF never gets hot enough to clean itself, while the EGR valve and intake soot up. FCA bulletin 25-001-19 says that if the driver ignores the DPF regeneration message the car needs a paid forced regeneration, and bulletin 18-064-23 (2.2 diesel) adds software for particulate matter sensor faults and says code P2002 needs a new DPF and sensor. Left alone this ends in limp mode, a blocked DPF and a sooted intake. Later 2.2 cars also use AdBlue, where NOx sensor failures bring warning messages.

What you would notice

  • DPF regeneration or exhaust system warning on the dash
  • Check engine light and limp mode with little power
  • Cooling fan running and high idle after switching off during a regeneration
  • Hesitation or blue-grey smoke under acceleration

How to check it

Where to look. DPF in the exhaust under the car behind the engine, EGR valve and intake manifold on the engine

Switch on and check that the check engine light comes on then goes out once running, and look for any DPF, exhaust or AdBlue message in the dash display. On the test drive include at least 10 minutes on the open road and check that it pulls cleanly without flat spots or dropping into limp mode. Have someone watch the exhaust while you accelerate firmly from low revs for heavy smoke. After switching off, listen for the cooling fan running on, which can mean a regeneration was interrupted. Ask how the car was used; a diesel that only did short town trips is the risky one. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the engine scanned for DPF soot load and codes such as P2463, P2002 and P24D1, and have the EGR valve and intake checked for carbon.

Parts involved: Diesel particulate filter, EGR valve.

What it costs to put right

$300 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That is for this job on its own, not for the car.

An estimate, in NZD, for the repair as normally carried out. What a specific car costs depends on which part has failed and what it damaged on the way — treat this as the floor for a negotiation, not a quote.

Ask the seller

  • “Was the car mostly driven in town or on the open road?”
  • “Has it ever shown a DPF or exhaust system warning, or gone into limp mode?”
  • “Has the DPF, EGR valve or any exhaust sensor been replaced or cleaned?”
  • “Have all the engine software updates been done?”

Now check the Jeep Cherokee you are actually looking at

Everything above is true of the model, and it is free. What it does not tell you is whether THIS car has been looked after: its odometer history and whether the reading has ever gone backwards, whether there is still money owing on it, whether it has been reported stolen, how many owners it has had and what it is really worth today. That comes from the official records for that plate. Enter the plate for the free details, or get the full history and a market valuation from $13.49.

Not sure what you would be paying for? See what a full KickTyres check includes.

Where this comes from

The failure described above is documented in the sources below. The inspection instructions and the cost estimate are KickTyres’ own interpretation of them.

  • FCA TSB 25-001-19, 2019-2020 KL Cherokee 2.2 diesel DPF regeneration message and P2463
  • FCA TSB 18-064-23 (supersedes 18-105-20), 2020 KL Cherokee 2.2 diesel PCM update for particulate matter sensor and DPF efficiency codes
  • Minbilkoll.se buyer guide, used Jeep Cherokee KL (2.0 MultiJet EGR and intake sooting, NOx sensor faults)

Jeep Cherokee buyer questions

Is dpf blockage, particulate sensor faults and egr sooting (2.0 and 2.2 multijet ii diesel) serious on a Jeep Cherokee?

We rate it major and common on the Jeep Cherokee. The 2.0 and later 2.2 MultiJet II diesels in the KL Cherokee run both EGR and a diesel particulate filter (DPF), and on short trips and town driving the DPF never gets hot enough to clean itself, while the EGR valve and intake soot up. FCA bulletin 25-001-19 says that if the driver ignores the DPF regeneration message the car needs a paid forced regeneration, and bulletin 18-064-23 (2.2 diesel) adds software for particulate matter sensor faults and says code P2002 needs a new DPF and sensor. Left alone this ends in limp mode, a blocked DPF and a sooted intake. Later 2.2 cars also use AdBlue, where NOx sensor failures bring warning messages.

How much does it cost to fix on a Jeep Cherokee?

$300 to $6,000 at New Zealand independent workshop rates. That figure is for this job on its own. A car showing the symptoms on this page is usually worth either walking away from or negotiating down by at least the repair figure.

Which Jeep Cherokee years are affected?

Our research records this fault on the 2014–2021 Jeep Cherokee. Build dates move around, especially on imported cars, so treat the range as the years to look hardest at rather than a guarantee either way. The official records tell you the exact build and first registration date for the car in front of you.

How do I check for it before I buy?

Switch on and check that the check engine light comes on then goes out once running, and look for any DPF, exhaust or AdBlue message in the dash display. On the test drive include at least 10 minutes on the open road and check that it pulls cleanly without flat spots or dropping into limp mode. Have someone watch the exhaust while you accelerate firmly from low revs for heavy smoke. After switching off, listen for the cooling fan running on, which can mean a regeneration was interrupted. Ask how the car was used; a diesel that only did short town trips is the risky one. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the engine scanned for DPF soot load and codes such as P2463, P2002 and P24D1, and have the EGR valve and intake checked for carbon. Look here: DPF in the exhaust under the car behind the engine, EGR valve and intake manifold on the engine