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Toyota2002–2016 Major issues documented

Toyota Ist XP110: common faults & what to check

The XP110 is the Toyota Ist built 2007–2016. It was sold here with the 1.5 petrol and 1.8 petrol. Of the 12 faults documented for the Ist, 4 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Ist

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

12

Documented faults

Major

Most serious

$400–$1,400

Typical repair

17

Service milestones

You're looking at the XP110

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2008 Toyota Ist is the XP110 generation (2007 to 2016).

Start your free check on this Toyota Ist

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Toyota Ist XP110Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Ist came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Ist · 2008

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

Toyota Ist service schedule

The 3 engines a 2008 Toyota Ist was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Toyota Ist Second Generation · 2007–2016 · 1.8L 2ZR-FE - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The accessory drive belt can start perishing around here.

  2. 150,000 km

    Good window to confirm the suspension bushings and struts are still good, which keeps the comfortable Toyota ride.

  3. 200,000 km

    Worth having the cooling system parts professionally checked so the car stays dependable.

Toyota Ist Second Generation · 2007–2016 · 1.5L 1NZ-FE - FWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Find out whether the serpentine belt has been replaced, and check the suspension bushings generally.

  2. 150,000 km

    Worth checking the water pump and the cooling system parts so it keeps running reliably.

  3. 200,000 km

    Wise to have a professional look at the alternator and the engine mounts to keep the ride smooth.

Toyota Ist Second Generation · 2007–2016 · 1.5L 1NZ-FE - AWD

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The accessory drive belt and spark plugs should have been replaced by this point.

  2. 150,000 km

    Good window for fresh engine coolant and a check of the suspension bushings for fatigue.

  3. 200,000 km

    Have a professional look at the AWD system fluids and the alternator brushes.

See all 4 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior2

01Underbody and rear-beam rust on imports from Japanese snow prefectures

2002–2016Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $500–$3,000 to fix

Every Ist in NZ is a JDM import, and Japanese-market cars leave the factory with no underseal because most of Japan does not salt its roads — but cars that lived in snow prefectures were exposed to heavy de-icing salt, which corrodes the unprotected floor, sills, rear torsion beam and brake/fuel lines. Japanese auction grades largely ignore underbody condition, so a high-grade, shiny Ist can still hide corrosion that will fail a WoF. On this platform pay particular attention to the rear axle beam and its mounting points, since related Scion xD cars have documented rear-beam corrosion and cracking cases.

Symptoms to notice

  • Flaking scale rust on the rear axle beam, floor pan or sills seen from underneath
  • Bubbling paint on wheel arches or lower door edges
  • Crusty brake or fuel lines under the car
  • Rust remarks on a previous WoF checksheet

What to check

  1. Get underneath each end with a torch: check the rear torsion beam and where it mounts to the body, the sills, floor seams and the brake/fuel lines running front to rear.
  2. Surface discolouration is normal; scale you can flake off with a key is not.
  3. Press on the lower sills for softness.
  4. Ask for the Japanese auction sheet to see the region of origin, and whether the underbody was treated on arrival.
  5. A hoist inspection before purchase is the single best money you can spend on any JDM import.

Where to look: Rear torsion beam and mounts, sills, floor pan, brake and fuel lines, wheel arches

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Which Japanese region did the car come from — can I see the auction sheet?”
  • “Was any rust-proofing done when it landed in NZ?”
  • “Has rust ever been noted at a WoF?”

02Front lower control arm bolt corrosion and worn arm bushes (XP110, shared with Yaris/Scion xD)

petrol2007–2016Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $400–$1,100 to fix

The XP110 Ist shares its front end with the XP90 Yaris and Scion xD, a platform with a documented weakness: the front lower control arm's rear (#2) mounting bolt corrodes badly, in US reports from surprisingly low mileage, and can seize or even snap during repairs; the arm's rear bushes also wear and let the arm move. In NZ this matters most on imports from Japanese snow regions where the salt has already started on the underbody. Worn arms/bushes cause clunks, vague steering and tyre wear, and a seized bolt can turn a cheap bush job into a subframe-out fight.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk from the front when braking or over bumps
  • Steering feels vague or the car wanders on rough roads
  • Uneven inner-edge front tyre wear
  • Visible rust on the front suspension bolts and subframe from underneath

What to check

Look under the front of the car with a torch at the lower control arms where they bolt to the subframe: heavy rust scale on the bolts and brackets is the warning sign. Grab the front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and rock it — play with a clunk suggests worn arm bushes or ball joint. On the test drive, brake moderately from 50 km/h and feel for a clunk or pull. This is standard WoF territory, so a recent WoF is some comfort — but ask if control arms or bushes have been replaced.

Where to look: Front lower control arms and their rear mounting bolts on the front subframe, visible from under the front of the car

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front control arms or bushes ever been replaced?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front end over bumps or under braking?”
  • “Did the last WoF note any front suspension wear?”
Depends on the exact engine — 2 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

01Cold-start rattle and oil-burn tendency on neglected engines (1.3 2NZ-FE / 1.5 1NZ-FE)

Arrive early and feel the bonnet — it must be cold.petrol2002–2016Engine
CommonEngine $400–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Both Ist generations use NZ-series engines that share the 1NZ-FE's signature brief rattle on cold start, caused by the VVT-i cam gear or a timing-chain tensioner that bleeds down overnight. It is made much worse by stretched oil-change intervals — the norm for cheap JDM imports with no service history — because dirty oil wears the chain and clogs the small piston oil-return holes, which then leads to oil burning at high mileage. A one-second rattle is livable; a lingering rattle or ticking under load means the tensioner, guides or chain need replacing before the timing jumps.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle for a second or two on the first cold start of the day
  • Ticking/clicking that increases under acceleration or uphill
  • Blue smoke on start-up or oil level dropping between changes on high-km cars
  • Sludge visible under the oil filler cap

What to check

  1. Arrive early and feel the bonnet — it must be cold.
  2. Have the seller start it while you listen at the front of the engine bay: a short rattle that stops instantly is typical, sustained rattling is a repair bill.
  3. Check the dipstick for level and colour, and look under the filler cap for brown sludge.
  4. Rev gently after warm-up and watch the exhaust in a mirror or have a friend watch for blue smoke.
  5. Ask for any oil-change paperwork, NZ or Japanese.

Where to look: Timing chain, tensioner and VVT-i gear behind the timing cover at the drive-belt end of the engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it rattle on cold start, and for how long?”
  • “How often has the oil been changed since import?”
  • “Does it use any oil between services?”

02Super CVT-i (K310) shudder and whine from fluid neglect (XP110)

Test drive from cold.petrol2007–2016TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Toyota Ist engines and years8 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling3

01K110 CVT Belt Judder on Take-Off

Test drive and feel for vibration during light acceleration from rest.petrol2002–2007Transmission
Very commonTransmission $600–$3,500 to fix

Does not apply

The Ist K110 CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear on urban-use examples. Toyota CVTF FE specification must be used.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic shudder or buzz from drivetrain during light acceleration from rest
  • CVT fluid darker than the correct clear pink

What to check

Test drive and feel for vibration during light acceleration from rest. CVT fluid darker than the correct pink indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: CVT gearbox in engine bay

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the k110 cvt belt judder on been inspected or repaired?”

021NZ-FE Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for rattle from engine front.petrol2002–2007Engine
CommonEngine $600–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

The 1NZ-FE timing chain tensioner rattles on cold start. Common at 80,000+ km. Extended rattle indicates worn tensioner.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine front on cold start
  • Rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds or at operating temperature

What to check

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for rattle from engine front. Normal: clears in under 5 seconds.

Where to look: Front of engine, timing chain tensioner

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 1nz-fe timing chain tensioner cold-start been inspected or repaired?”

03Throttle Body Carbon Fouling

Inspect throttle body bore for carbon deposits.petrol2002–2007Engine
CommonEngine $80–$300 to fix

Does not apply

Throttle body butterfly and bore accumulate carbon from crankcase vapour causing rough idle and hesitation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle and hesitation from rest at light throttle
  • Occasional stalling when releasing throttle in traffic

What to check

  1. Inspect throttle body bore for carbon deposits.
  2. Note rough idle quality and hesitation on deceleration.

Where to look: Throttle body on intake manifold

Ask the seller

  • “Has the throttle body carbon fouling been inspected or repaired?”
Electrical1

01Electric Power Steering Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2002–2007Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $600–$2,000 to fix

Does not apply

The NCP60 Ist electric power steering column motor can fail causing a sudden or gradual loss of power assistance. The failure is typically accompanied by an EPS warning light on the instrument cluster. Affected vehicles require significant steering effort especially during low-speed manoeuvring and parking, and replacement of the EPS column unit is the usual repair.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — any heavy feel warrants investigation.

Where to look: EPS column motor and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering failure been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2002–2007Brakes
CommonBrakes $150–$500 to fix

Does not apply

Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One front disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

02Premature front strut and bushing wear with a harsh, crashy ride (XP60)

Push down hard on each front corner and let go: the car should rebound once and settle — repeated bouncing means dead struts.petrol2002–2007Suspension
CommonSuspension $600–$1,400 to fix

Does not apply

The first-generation Ist (sold in the US as the Scion xA) rides on a short-travel strut front end and torsion-beam rear tuned firm for its tall body, and owners consistently report front struts and suspension bushings wearing early — with knocking over bumps, a crashy ride and uneven tyre wear. On a 15-20-year-old import the struts are almost certainly original unless there is an invoice saying otherwise. Worn dampers also hurt the WoF-relevant items: tyre wear and stability. Parts are cheap and shared with the Vitz/Platz family, so it is a manageable fix rather than a deal-breaker.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking from the front over speed bumps and potholes
  • Bouncy, floaty ride that keeps oscillating after a bump
  • Uneven or scalloped front tyre wear
  • Creaking when turning at low speed

What to check

  1. Push down hard on each front corner and let go: the car should rebound once and settle — repeated bouncing means dead struts.
  2. Look at the front tyres for uneven wear across the tread.
  3. On the test drive, pick a rough side street and listen for knocks and rattles from the front end.
  4. Turn full lock in a car park and listen for creaks.
  5. Ask whether struts, mounts or bushes have been replaced and get the invoice.

Where to look: Front strut towers and lower control arm bushes; rear torsion beam bushes at the rear axle

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the shocks or struts ever been replaced?”
  • “Are there any knocking noises over bumps?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment, and did the tyres wear evenly?”

03Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Clunking

Front strut top mount bearings wear causing clunking when turning the steering wheel and over bumps.2002–2007Suspension
CommonSuspension $250–$600 to fix

Does not apply

Front strut top mount bearings wear causing clunking when turning the steering wheel and over bumps. Very common on urban-use Ist examples.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front struts when turning or going over bumps
  • Clunking that is directionally repeatable at the same point in steering travel

What to check

Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock with vehicle stationary — clunking that repeats at the same steering angle indicates worn top mount bearings.

Where to look: Front strut top mount bearings both sides

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front strut top mount bearing been inspected or repaired?”

04Rear Torsion Beam Bush Collapse

Inspect rear beam mounting bushes for cracking.2002–2007Suspension
CommonSuspension $200–$550 to fix

Does not apply

Rear beam axle rubber bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces
  • Imprecise rear handling feel

What to check

  1. Inspect rear beam mounting bushes for cracking.
  2. Push beam laterally — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.

Where to look: Rear beam axle mounting points

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear torsion beam bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”

Toyota Ist faults in detail

Narrowed to the Toyota Ist · 2008. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

Super CVT-i (K310) shudder and whine from fluid neglect (XP110)Major · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Ist’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Prado64 documented faultsToyota RAV463 documented faultsToyota Hilux59 documented faultsToyota Spade12 documented faultsToyota Ipsum11 documented faultsToyota Isis11 documented faults

Toyota Ist buyer questions

Is the Toyota Ist reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 12 documented faults for the Toyota Ist, the recurring problem areas are transmission, body & rust, and electrical. A Toyota Ist with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Ist?

We've catalogued 12 known faults for the Toyota Ist, covering transmission, body & rust, and electrical. All 12 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Ist?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Ist fall between $400–$1,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 12 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Ist?

Yes. A Toyota Ist inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.