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Ford2004–2022 Critical issues documented

Ford Fiesta: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Ford Fiesta (2004–2022) in New Zealand? We've documented 16 known faults for this model spanning engine, transmission, body & rust, and cooling. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Ford Fiesta

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

16

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$300–$1,500

Typical repair

34

Service milestones

Which Ford Fiesta are you looking at?

6 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Ford Fiesta

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Pick the engine above first: the Fiesta came with 5, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Ford Fiesta

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Ford Fiesta before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Test drive in stop-start traffic conditions: multiple gentle take-offs from a standstill, low-speed creeping, and a hill start.

    See why

    PowerShift DPS6 dry dual-clutch — shudder, slipping and repeat failures (AU class action)

    The 6-speed 'PowerShift' auto in 2011-2018 Fiestas is a dry dual-clutch that shudders, slips, lurches and repeatedly eats clutch packs, seals and control modules; many cars had multiple warranty replacements and failed again. It was the subject of an Australian class action (Capic v Ford) and the ACCC fined Ford $10 million for its handling of customer complaints. Ford's extended warranties on these have expired, so every future repair is on you. On any auto Fiesta of this era, assume the transmission is a problem until a specialist proves otherwise — or buy the manual.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder or vibration pulling away from a stop, like a learner slipping the clutch
    • Lurching or banging between 1st and 2nd
    • Hesitation then sudden lunge when accelerating from a roll
    • Transmission warning light or limp mode

    Typically $1,500–$5,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Ask for the service book and an invoice that names the timing belt (cambelt) and tensioner, with the date and odometer reading.

    See why

    Timing belt overdue on an interference engine (1.4 / 1.6 Duratec Sigma, incl. 1.6 Ti-VCT)

    The 1.4 and 1.6 Duratec (Sigma family) petrol engines in the WP/WQ and WS/WT Fiesta use a rubber timing belt that Ford specifies be replaced every 160,000 km or 8 years, whichever comes first. The engine is an interference design with tight valve clearances, so if the belt snaps or jumps a tooth the valves hit the pistons and the head is usually wrecked. Because of the 8-year age limit, every car in this range is now due at least once by time alone, and many low-kilometre cars have never had it done. There is no recall or warranty cover; it is a scheduled service item that owners often skip.

    What you would notice

    • No symptoms at all before the belt fails, which is why the paperwork matters
    • Engine stops suddenly while driving and will not restart, or cranks with an uneven fast spin
    • Ticking or slapping noise from the right-hand (passenger side) end of the engine as a worn belt or tensioner flaps

    Typically $650–$4,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    This cannot be inspected from outside — the service history is the inspection.

    See why

    1.0 EcoBoost wet timing belt (belt-in-oil) degradation

    The 1.0 EcoBoost runs its timing belt inside the engine, bathed in oil. Old or wrong-spec oil attacks the belt; shed rubber blocks the oil pick-up and starves the engine, and a snapped belt bends valves. Ford's original 'lifetime-ish' interval has been walked back — specialists now recommend replacement by 8-10 years or ~150,000 km, earlier on cars with patchy servicing. The belt job is expensive on such a cheap car because the engine is partially dismantled to do it.

    What you would notice

    • Low oil pressure warning
    • Rattle from the front of the engine
    • Sudden non-runner (belt failure gives little warning)
    • Rubber debris visible in the sump/oil filter at services

    Typically $1,500–$8,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Check coolant level cold and look for evidence of constant top-ups (fresh coolant, stained tank).

    See why

    Fiesta ST (ST180) 1.6 EcoBoost cylinder head cracking and coolant loss

    The Mk7 Fiesta ST's 1.6 EcoBoost shares the coolant-loss and cracked-cylinder-head problem that triggered Ford's 2017 fire-risk recall (2014-2015 Fiesta ST included). Low coolant lets the head overheat and crack around the exhaust side, leaking oil and coolant; the recall added a coolant-level sensor but did not redesign the head. Many STs have also been thrashed and modified, which makes coolant-system health checks doubly important on these.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant level dropping with no external leak
    • White exhaust smoke
    • Coolant smell after hard driving
    • Overheating warning

    Typically $3,500–$7,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive specifically in slow-moving traffic and attempt multiple slow pull-aways from rest.

    See why

    PowerShift DPS6 dual-clutch judder and shudder at low speed

    The Ford PowerShift 6-speed dual-clutch transmission (DPS6) fitted to automatic WZ Fiestas is a dry-clutch DCT known for severe shudder and judder during low-speed engagement below 20 km/h. The clutch packs are sensitive to wear and contamination, causing a characteristic bucking and lurching sensation when pulling away from rest in traffic. Ford issued software updates and clutch replacements which provided only temporary relief. The ACCC took Ford Motor Company to the Federal Court in Australia (ACCC v Ford Motor Company of Australia Ltd [2022]) resulting in a AUD 10 million penalty. Many affected vehicles in the AU market were subject to a customer buyback program. Residual units in the NZ/AU used market carry significant risk of recurrence.

    What you would notice

    • Shuddering and juddering at low speeds when pulling away from rest
    • Lurching or bucking in slow stop-start traffic
    • Hesitation when selecting drive from park at low speed
    • Transmission hunting between gears below 20 km/h

    Typically $1,500–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Park on flat ground and stand in front of the car to see if one front corner sits lower than the other.

    See why

    Front coil spring fracture (WP/WQ)

    The front coil springs on the WP/WQ Fiesta are known to crack and break, usually at the bottom coil where it sits in the strut seat, and it happens even on low-kilometre cars. A broken spring can lower that corner, clunk over bumps and, in the worst case, the broken end can rub or puncture the tyre. It is a WoF failure and springs should be replaced in pairs. There is no recall.

    What you would notice

    • Loud bang or clunk from one front corner when turning the wheel on full lock or going over bumps
    • One front corner sits noticeably lower than the other
    • Car pulls or feels unsettled over bumps
    • Scuffing or cut marks on the inner edge of a front tyre

    Typically $350–$750 to put right.

Ford Fiesta service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Ford Fiesta. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Fiesta Mk7 · 2018–2020 · 1.0L EcoBoost - 92kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Evaluate the wet timing belt's condition - a key service item for the EcoBoost engine.

  2. 150,000 km

    Give the alternator and water pump a deep health check.

  3. 200,000 km

    Service the drivetrain fluids and inspect the turbo intake hoses.

Fiesta Mk7 · 2018–2022 · 1.5L EcoBoost ST - 147kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 60,000 km

    Have a professional technician evaluate the drive belt and cooling system components.

  2. 100,000 km

    Standard maintenance interval for a health check on the ignition system and carbon buildup levels.

  3. 120,000 km

    Flush the transmission fluid and coolant to keep the cooling system efficient.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2013–2017 · 1.6L EcoBoost ST - 134kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Refresh the cooling system hoses and thermostat to maintain optimal turbo operation.

  2. 120,000 km

    Have the turbocharger assembly and vacuum lines inspected for performance degradation.

  3. 150,000 km

    Suspension bushings and engine mounts may start showing their age.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2013–2017 · 1.0L EcoBoost - 92kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Have the turbocharger's oil feed lines checked for minor weeping to keep the engine running efficiently.

  2. 120,000 km

    Give the cooling system a full health check, including the radiator and water pump, for the NZ climate.

  3. 150,000 km

    Refresh the spark plugs for optimal combustion efficiency.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2013–2017 · 1.5L Duratec - 82kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check the drive belts and tensioners to prevent unexpected roadside trouble.

  2. 120,000 km

    Inspect the suspension components, specifically the struts and sway bar links, to maintain that signature Fiesta handling.

  3. 150,000 km

    Inspect the suspension bushes and shock absorbers for perishing or leaking.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2011–2013 · 1.6L TDCi - 70kW

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 200,000 km

    Inspect turbocharger hoses and intercooler integrity for vacuum leaks.

  2. 250,000 km

    Verify the timing belt condition and tensioner health.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2011–2013 · 1.6L Duratec - 89kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Check clutch health and confirm the cooling system hoses remain supple.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check all cooling system components and auxiliary drive belts.

  3. 200,000 km

    The wet-belt timing belt system typically needs a thorough inspection or replacement around this stage for engine longevity.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2009–2010 · 1.4L Duratec - 71kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension components, specifically shock absorbers and top mounts, for ride comfort.

  2. 150,000 km

    Cooling system hoses and major seals should be monitored more closely to prevent unexpected leaks.

  3. 200,000 km

    Evaluate the suspension bushings and verify the supercharger drive belt and tensioner are within spec.

Fiesta Mk6 · 2009–2010 · 1.6L Duratec - 88kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The alternator and starter motor may need a professional health check to stay reliable for daily driving.

  2. 150,000 km

    Have a specialist review the engine mounts and exhaust manifold gaskets to maintain a smooth idle.

  3. 200,000 km

    Inspect the cooling system thoroughly and check the turbocharger vacuum lines.

Fiesta Mk5 · 2006–2008 · 1.6L Duratec - 74kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Review the suspension bushings and shock absorbers for fatigue.

  2. 150,000 km

    You'll want a clear history of clutch health and cooling system maintenance at this stage.

  3. 200,000 km

    Confirm the timing belt has been replaced - critical for the B3 engine.

Fiesta Mk5 · 2004–2006 · 1.4L Duratec - 59kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Review the radiator's condition and check for age-related weeping at the water pump, often done during a routine oil change.

  2. 200,000 km

    Service the cooling system and check all rubber hoses.

Fiesta Mk5 (JDM) · 2004–2006 · 1.6L Zetec - 74kW

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Verify the service history for the timing belt/chain system to ensure longevity.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check all cooling hoses and the alternator - components that have seen years of service.

  3. 200,000 km

    Suspension bushings and engine mounts begin showing their age.

See all 16 documented issuesEverything researched for the Ford Fiesta, including 6 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Ford Fiesta has — 16Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling10

011.0 EcoBoost wet timing belt (belt-in-oil) degradation

This cannot be inspected from outside — the service history is the inspection.petrol2013–2022Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1.0 EcoBoost runs its timing belt inside the engine, bathed in oil. Old or wrong-spec oil attacks the belt; shed rubber blocks the oil pick-up and starves the engine, and a snapped belt bends valves. Ford's original 'lifetime-ish' interval has been walked back — specialists now recommend replacement by 8-10 years or ~150,000 km, earlier on cars with patchy servicing. The belt job is expensive on such a cheap car because the engine is partially dismantled to do it.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low oil pressure warning
  • Rattle from the front of the engine
  • Sudden non-runner (belt failure gives little warning)
  • Rubber debris visible in the sump/oil filter at services

What to check

This cannot be inspected from outside — the service history is the inspection. You want proof of oil changes every 10,000-12,000 km with the correct Ford-spec oil, and on any car near or past 100,000 km, evidence the wet belt has been done or a price adjustment to cover it.

Where to look: Inside the front of the engine — the belt runs in the oil and is not visible

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the wet timing belt been replaced, and is there an invoice?”
  • “What oil spec was used and how often was it changed?”
  • “Has the oil pressure light ever come on?”

02Fiesta ST (ST180) 1.6 EcoBoost cylinder head cracking and coolant loss

Check coolant level cold and look for evidence of constant top-ups (fresh coolant, stained tank).petrol2013–2017Engine
OccasionalEngine $3,500–$7,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk7 Fiesta ST's 1.6 EcoBoost shares the coolant-loss and cracked-cylinder-head problem that triggered Ford's 2017 fire-risk recall (2014-2015 Fiesta ST included). Low coolant lets the head overheat and crack around the exhaust side, leaking oil and coolant; the recall added a coolant-level sensor but did not redesign the head. Many STs have also been thrashed and modified, which makes coolant-system health checks doubly important on these.

A removed six-cylinder diesel engine cylinder head on cardboard, valve-gear side facing up.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A six-cylinder diesel head off the engine, valve-gear side up. Cracks run between the valve seats on the face beneath.

Ll1324 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant level dropping with no external leak
  • White exhaust smoke
  • Coolant smell after hard driving
  • Overheating warning

What to check

  1. Check coolant level cold and look for evidence of constant top-ups (fresh coolant, stained tank).
  2. Ask a dealer to confirm the coolant-sensor recall by VIN.
  3. Check for tuning boxes or remaps and ask about track use.
  4. A cooling-system pressure test pre-purchase is strongly recommended.

Where to look: Cylinder head, exhaust side; coolant expansion tank driver's side of the bay

Parts involved: Cylinder head.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the coolant-level sensor recall been done?”
  • “Has it ever lost coolant or overheated?”
  • “Is the car remapped or has it been tracked?”

03PowerShift DPS6 dry dual-clutch — shudder, slipping and repeat failures (AU class action)

Test drive in stop-start traffic conditions: multiple gentle take-offs from a standstill, low-speed creeping, and a hill start.petrol2011–2018Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Timing belt overdue on an interference engine (1.4 / 1.6 Duratec Sigma, incl. 1.6 Ti-VCT)

Ask for the service book and an invoice that names the timing belt (cambelt) and tensioner, with the date and odometer reading.petrol2004–2013Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Fuel pipe degradation on July 2004 – February 2005 build cars (recall)

2004–2005Engine
OccasionalEngine $0–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Fiestas built between July 2004 and February 2005 were recalled because fuel pipes made outside specification could degrade and seep fuel, with a fire risk in the engine bay. It is a narrow build window, which is exactly why it is worth checking rather than assuming: a car from 2004 or 2005 may or may not be inside it, and the build date on the plate settles it where the model year does not. The remedy is free at a Ford dealer. Beyond this one item the fifth-generation Fiesta has a good reliability record — the Duratec engines are long-lived given oil changes and a timing belt at interval — so this recall is the specific thing to check rather than a general warning about the car.

Symptoms to notice

  • Smell of petrol around or inside the car, strongest after driving
  • Damp or wet patches on fuel lines in the engine bay
  • Fuel economy worse than it should be with no other explanation
  • Fuel stains on the ground under the front of the car

What to check

Find the build date first — it is on the VIN plate in the door jamb or under the bonnet, and it is the only thing that tells you whether this car is in the affected window, since the model year does not. If it is a July 2004 to February 2005 build, ask the seller whether the recall was carried out and to show the paperwork or a dealer stamp. Open the bonnet and simply smell for petrol, then look along the fuel lines for damp patches, staining or perished-looking hose. After the test drive, smell again with the engine hot. Check under the front of the car where it parks for fuel spots. A petrol smell you cannot explain is a reason to stop driving it, not to negotiate. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask a Ford dealer to check the recall status against the VIN, which is free and definitive.

Where to look: Engine bay — fuel pipes running to the fuel rail

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “What is the build date on the VIN plate?”
  • “Has the fuel pipe recall been carried out, and is there paperwork?”
  • “Have you ever smelled petrol around the car?”

061.0 EcoBoost degas hose failure and rapid coolant loss

petrol2013–2022Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07PowerShift DPS6 dual-clutch judder and shudder at low speed

Test drive specifically in slow-moving traffic and attempt multiple slow pull-aways from rest.petrol2011–2017Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08IB5 5-speed manual gearbox whine in fifth gear or bearing whine (1.25 / 1.4 Duratec)

On the test drive, get up to 80 to 100 km/h in fifth and listen for a steady whine that changes with road speed.petrol2004–2012Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $900–$2,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The IB5 five-speed manual fitted to the 1.25 and 1.4 petrol Fiesta can develop a whine in fifth gear caused by excess play between the fifth gear wheel and the main shaft; a Valeo technical bulletin (CL-090) covers Fiestas from 2001 to 2012 with gearboxes whose production code starts TTF, and says later T6T-coded boxes are not affected. Worn input shaft bearings in high-kilometre boxes give a similar whine or rumble in all gears that often goes quiet when the clutch is pressed. It is often noticed straight after a clutch replacement and wrongly blamed on the clutch. Left alone it gets louder and can end in a gearbox rebuild or replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whine that appears only in fifth gear on the open road
  • Whine or rumble in every gear that goes quiet or changes when the clutch pedal is pressed
  • Noise started soon after a new clutch was fitted
  • Rumble at idle in neutral that stops when the clutch is pressed

What to check

On the test drive, get up to 80 to 100 km/h in fifth and listen for a steady whine that changes with road speed; then drop to fourth at the same speed and see if it goes away. At idle in neutral with the handbrake on, listen for a rumble, then press the clutch pedal and note whether it stops (that points to the input shaft bearing). Check every gear engages cleanly without crunching. Ask if the clutch has been replaced and whether any noise started afterwards. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for a road test with a chassis-ear listening device and a check of gearbox oil level and condition, and note the gearbox production code on the casing (TTF prefix is the affected type).

Where to look: Gearbox on the left-hand end of the engine, between the engine and the left front wheel

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the clutch or gearbox ever been replaced or rebuilt?”
  • “Has anyone mentioned a whine in fifth gear?”
  • “Has the gearbox oil ever been changed?”

09EcoBoost 1.0T coolant expansion tank cracking and coolant loss

Inspect the coolant expansion tank for cracks, discolouration, or calcium deposits indicating past leaks.petrol2012–2019Cooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10Ignition coil pack and lead failure — misfire and rough running (1.4/1.6 Duratec)

Start it from cold and listen for an uneven idle; blip the throttle and feel for hesitation.petrol2004–2008Engine
Very commonEngine $150–$450 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mk6 Fiesta's wasted-spark coil pack and plug leads are a classic age failure: the coil cracks or the leads break down, giving a misfire that is worst in damp weather and under load. It is a cheap fix, but sellers often pass the car on rather than spend the money, and a long-ignored misfire will damage the catalytic converter. Always assume a lumpy-idling Mk6 needs at least a coil pack, leads and plugs.

A four-cylinder ignition coil rail removed from an engine, beside a steel rule for scale.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A coil-on-plug ignition rail, removed. One coil per cylinder.

Cschirp · CC BY-SA 3.0 de · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Lumpy idle, worse on damp mornings
  • Hesitation or jerking under acceleration
  • Flashing engine light
  • Poor fuel economy

What to check

  1. Start it from cold and listen for an uneven idle; blip the throttle and feel for hesitation.
  2. Look at the coil pack on the end of the engine for cracks and check whether the leads look original and perished.
  3. Ask when plugs and leads were last replaced.

Where to look: Coil pack bolted to the engine with four HT leads to the plugs, top of the engine

Parts involved: Ignition coil.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the spark plugs, leads and coil pack last replaced?”
  • “Does it ever run rough in wet weather?”
Electrical1

01Mk8 electrical gremlins — SYNC3 screen freezes, battery drain and phantom warnings

Check the battery date label — a recent battery on a 3-6 year old car hints at drain issues.petrol2019–2022Electrical
CommonElectrical $100–$800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk8 Fiestas (including the ST) are known for flat batteries from modules failing to sleep, SYNC3 screens freezing or rebooting, and clusters throwing random warning messages. Usually cured by software updates and a healthy battery, but a car with an ongoing drain will strand you, and diagnosing parasitic drains bills real workshop hours. Check for a pattern of battery replacements in the history.

Symptoms to notice

  • Flat battery after the car sits for a week
  • Touchscreen freezing, rebooting or losing Bluetooth/CarPlay
  • Random warning messages that clear on restart
  • Keyless entry intermittently not working

What to check

  1. Check the battery date label — a recent battery on a 3-6 year old car hints at drain issues.
  2. Cycle the infotainment through Bluetooth/CarPlay on the test drive.
  3. Ask whether all software updates have been applied at a dealer.

Where to look: 12V battery in the engine bay; SYNC3 screen and body control module behind the dash

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

  • “How many batteries has the car had?”
  • “Have there been any electrical faults or software updates?”
  • “Does the screen ever freeze or reboot?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior5

01Side door latch pawl spring tab breaks, door will not latch or can open while driving (recall 18S06)

On WS/WT Fiestas built from 27 May 2010, a small spring tab (the pawl spring tab) inside the side door latches can break.2010–2016Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $0–$450 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On WS/WT Fiestas built from 27 May 2010, a small spring tab (the pawl spring tab) inside the side door latches can break. The door then usually will not latch shut, and in some cases it closes but can come unlatched while driving. Ford Australia recalled 128,644 Fiesta and Ranger vehicles for this in November 2018 (PRA 2018/17164, campaign 18S06), and the same latch was recalled in the USA (NHTSA 15V246). The fix is new latches fitted free by a Ford dealer; recalls do not expire, but cars that missed it are still on the road.

Symptoms to notice

  • A door bounces back open when shut and will not stay closed
  • Door has to be slammed several times to catch
  • Door ajar warning light stays on while driving
  • Central locking does not lock one door, or the door rattles in its frame

What to check

  1. Open and close all four doors (and the tailgate) at normal force several times each and confirm each one catches first time on the full latch, not just the first click.
  2. Pull firmly on each closed door from outside and inside to check it cannot be pulled open without the handle.
  3. Lock the car with the remote and try every door handle to confirm all doors lock.
  4. Watch the dashboard for a door ajar warning while you drive over bumps.
  5. Ask the seller for proof that recall 18S06 was done, or ring a Ford dealer with the VIN to check whether it is still open.
  6. If a workshop inspection is possible: have a Ford dealer check the recall status against the VIN and inspect the latch on any door that is slow to catch.

Where to look: Inside the rear edge of each side door, where the latch meets the striker on the body pillar

Ask the seller

  • “Has the door latch recall 18S06 been done, and do you have the dealer paperwork?”
  • “Has any door ever refused to shut or popped open?”
  • “Have any door latches or lock actuators been replaced?”

02Sill rust trapped behind side skirts and on door bottom edges (WP/WQ, worst on ST / XR4)

On the WP/WQ Fiesta, rust commonly starts on the sills and along the bottom edges of the doors.2004–2008Body & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Front coil spring fracture (WP/WQ)

Park on flat ground and stand in front of the car to see if one front corner sits lower than the other.2004–2008Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front coil springs on the WP/WQ Fiesta are known to crack and break, usually at the bottom coil where it sits in the strut seat, and it happens even on low-kilometre cars. A broken spring can lower that corner, clunk over bumps and, in the worst case, the broken end can rub or puncture the tyre. It is a WoF failure and springs should be replaced in pairs. There is no recall.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud bang or clunk from one front corner when turning the wheel on full lock or going over bumps
  • One front corner sits noticeably lower than the other
  • Car pulls or feels unsettled over bumps
  • Scuffing or cut marks on the inner edge of a front tyre

What to check

  1. Park on flat ground and stand in front of the car to see if one front corner sits lower than the other.
  2. Turn the steering to full lock each way and use a phone torch to look through the wheel at the spring coils, especially the bottom coil, for a clean break or a gap where two coil ends overlap.
  3. Check the inner edge of both front tyres for rubbing marks.
  4. On the test drive, turn slowly at full lock both ways and listen for a clunk or twang from the front.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for the car to be lifted so both front springs can be inspected with the weight off and on.

Where to look: Front suspension struts, visible behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front springs ever been replaced, and were both done?”
  • “Has the car failed a WoF on suspension before?”

04Rust on tailgate seams, rear arches and sills

Open the tailgate and inspect its bottom inner seam.2004–2008Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $300–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk6 Fiestas rust along the bottom seam of the tailgate, around the rear wheel arch lips and on the sills — cosmetic at first, but arch and sill rust becomes structural and a WoF issue as the cars pass 15 years old. Tailgate rust is so common it is effectively expected; use it to negotiate, but treat bubbling sills more seriously.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling paint along the bottom edge of the tailgate
  • Brown staining or bubbles on rear arch lips
  • Flaking underseal on the sills

What to check

  1. Open the tailgate and inspect its bottom inner seam.
  2. Run a hand around each rear arch lip feeling for bubbles under the paint.
  3. Kneel and check the sills, especially at the jacking points, and look at recent WoF sheets for rust remarks.

Where to look: Tailgate bottom seam, rear wheel arch lips, sills and jacking points

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any rust been repaired for a WoF?”
  • “Has the tailgate ever been repainted?”

05Front anti-roll bar drop links and bushes — knocking over bumps

Drive it slowly over a rough side street with the window down and listen for front-end knocks.2004–2008Suspension
Very commonSuspension $150–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mk6 Fiestas wear out their front anti-roll bar drop links and lower arm bushes quickly on NZ roads, giving a rattly knock over small bumps. It is cheap to fix but a very common WoF fail, and worn bushes let the front end wander and chew the inside edges of the front tyres. On a 17-20 year old car, budget for a refresh unless there are recent receipts.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or rattling from the front over small bumps
  • Clunk when turning at low speed
  • Vague steering and uneven front tyre wear

What to check

  1. Drive it slowly over a rough side street with the window down and listen for front-end knocks.
  2. Look at the inside edges of the front tyres for feathering.
  3. Grab the top of each front wheel and rock it, feeling for play.

Where to look: Front suspension — anti-roll bar drop links behind each front wheel, lower arm bushes

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the drop links or control arm bushes been replaced?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment?”

Ford Fiesta faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Ford Fiesta’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Ford models

Ford Fiesta buyer questions

Is the Ford Fiesta reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 16 documented faults for the Ford Fiesta, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and body & rust. A Ford Fiesta with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Ford Fiesta?

We've catalogued 16 known faults for the Ford Fiesta, covering engine, transmission, and body & rust. All 16 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Ford Fiesta?

Most single repairs on the Ford Fiesta fall between $300–$1,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 16 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Ford Fiesta?

Yes. A Ford Fiesta inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.