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Mitsubishi2010–2023 Critical issues documented

Mitsubishi ASX: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Mitsubishi ASX (2010–2023) in New Zealand? We've documented 26 known faults for this model spanning transmission, engine, electrical, and brakes. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Mitsubishi ASX

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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26

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$350–$1,400

Typical repair

7

Systems covered

Which Mitsubishi ASX are you looking at?

3 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Diesel

1 variant documented

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Mitsubishi ASX

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Mitsubishi ASXEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the ASX came with 4, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishi ASX

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mitsubishi ASX before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Road test for any shudder; a clean test drive without judder with recently serviced fluid is minimum reassurance.

    See why

    CVT Belt Abrasion and Catastrophic Pulley Failure

    When the CVT hydraulic judder fault (above) is left unaddressed, ongoing belt slippage generates abrasion powder that contaminates the hydraulic pressure circuit and rapidly wears the steel push-belt and pulley contact surfaces. Mitsubishi TSB-20-23-001 explicitly states that continued driving under shudder conditions causes belt slip and abrasion powder contamination leading to CVT warning illumination with codes P0776, P0730, or P084A. The end-stage failure is complete CVT seizure or loss of drive, requiring full transmission replacement.

    What you would notice

    • CVT warning light or flashing D-position indicator on dashboard
    • Loss of acceleration or engine revs rising without corresponding speed increase
    • Transmission entering limp mode, limiting speed to approximately 40–60 km/h
    • Metallic shimmer or grey particulate in CVT fluid on inspection
    • Total loss of drive with engine running in severe cases

    Typically $4,500–$9,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    For any 2011 or 2012 1.8D ASX, verify recall completion via the NZTA recall check tool or the Mitsubishi NZ dealer recall lookup before purchase.

    See why

    4N13 Diesel Piston Ring Soot Seizure — Safety Recall (2011-2012)

    A software defect in the ECU pilot-injection timing allowed soot to accumulate in the piston ring grooves of the 1.8D 4N13 engine, causing the rings to seize in their lands and pistons to overheat. Mitsubishi issued a formal safety recall covering approximately 1,588 diesel ASXs built in 2011 and 2012; the remedy was an ECU reprogram to alter pilot-injection timing and prevent soot accumulation. Vehicles on which the recall was not completed face risk of sudden catastrophic engine stall with no restart capability due to seized pistons overheating and potentially melting.

    What you would notice

    • Sudden engine stall without warning at any speed, engine cannot be restarted
    • Engine warning light or loss of power before full stall event
    • Abnormal knocking or rattling before stall in severe seizure cases
    • Visible smoke from exhaust prior to catastrophic failure
    • Post-failure engine turns over but will not fire due to ring seizure

    Typically $0–$6,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Start the engine from cold and listen carefully at the timing cover on the front of the engine for any metallic rattling during the first 30 seconds.

    See why

    4J11 2.0L timing chain guide and tensioner wear

    The Mitsubishi 4J11 2.0L MIVEC engine uses a single-row timing chain with a plastic guide rail on the slack side and a hydraulic ratcheting tensioner. The plastic guide material degrades from sustained heat cycling and the oil galleries supplying the tensioner can restrict with sludge when oil changes are delayed beyond 10,000km. As the guide wears, the chain begins to slap against the guide rail on cold starts before oil pressure reaches the tensioner. Over time the guide fractures, debris enters the oil circuit, and the chain can jump a tooth on the intake or exhaust camshaft sprocket. A jumped tooth causes significant timing error leading to rough running and potential valve contact. This failure pattern is strongly correlated with extended oil service intervals and incorrect oil viscosity use.

    What you would notice

    • Metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start that fades within 30 seconds
    • Persistent rattling at idle that worsens as mileage increases
    • Rough running or misfires following a rattle episode indicating a jumped tooth
    • Check engine light with camshaft position error codes P0340 or P0345
    • Engine stall or catastrophic valve damage if chain fully skips

    Typically $1,800–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect rubber surfaces for splits and oil contamination from nearby seals.

    See why

    Front lower control arm bush wear

    The ASX XA through XC front lower control arm uses identical bush specification and subframe mounting geometry to the related Outlander platform. The front pivot rubber bush and rear eccentric alignment bush are subject to the same rubber hydrolysis and shear failure mechanism under NZ road conditions. The ASX's lighter kerb weight reduces absolute load magnitude on the bushes but the same rubber compound and design is used, resulting in comparable fleet failure rates. Bush wear typically manifests after 80,000-120,000km in normal NZ conditions with gravel road exposure advancing the timeline. Many NZ-registered ASX vehicles fail their WoF inspection on this item, and replacement is considered routine maintenance rather than an exceptional repair in the specialist workshop sector.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over road imperfections
    • Steering wander or imprecise straight-line tracking
    • Front tyre feathering or cupping wear pattern
    • Knock when weight transfers rearward during braking
    • WoF failure for front suspension play

    Typically $300–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test drive at 20–40 km/h with light throttle on a gentle uphill; feel for a rhythmic shudder or hesitation.

    See why

    CVT INVECS-III Low-Speed Judder and Surge

    The INVECS-III CVT fitted across the ASX petrol range is prone to a pronounced shudder or surge during light acceleration at 20–40 km/h, caused by sluggish hydraulic pressure circuit reaction in the belt secondary pulley circuit. Mitsubishi issued TSB-17-23-002 in April 2017, superseded by TSB-20-23-001 in April 2020, and revised again as TSB-22-23-001REV in February 2022, confirming this fault is persistent and widespread. Fluid degradation from missed service intervals accelerates onset, and the condition can set DTCs P0776, P0730, or P0741.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic shudder or vibration through drivetrain at 20–40 km/h under light acceleration
    • Engine flare or surge without corresponding vehicle acceleration
    • CVT warning light or check engine light with codes P0776 or P0730
    • Judder felt through floor and seat during gentle take-off from rest
    • Symptom worsens as transmission warms up or improves briefly after fluid change

    Typically $350–$800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check the oil level on the dipstick — a reading above maximum with no obvious external leak is a strong indicator of fuel dilution.

    See why

    4N13 1.8D DPF Oil Dilution from Incomplete Regeneration

    The 1.8-litre 4N13 diesel uses post-injection fuel pulses during active DPF regeneration; on vehicles used predominantly for short urban trips the regeneration cycle is repeatedly interrupted before completion, causing unburned diesel to wash down the cylinder bores and accumulate in the engine oil sump. The oil level rises above the maximum dipstick mark, triggering an oil level warning, and the diluted oil loses its lubricating properties. This mechanism is extensively documented on Mitsubishi owner forums and a Denso 4N13 DPF fault thread on MHH Auto, and in severe cases leads to premature bearing and bore wear.

    What you would notice

    • Oil level above maximum on dipstick with no external oil leak evident
    • Oil smells of diesel fuel rather than normal lubricant
    • Check engine oil level warning on dashboard
    • DPF regeneration warning light activating very frequently — every 50–100 km on short-trip vehicles
    • Rough idle or increased smoke at start-up on vehicles with severely diluted oil

    Typically $600–$4,500 to put right.

See all 26 documented issuesEverything researched for the Mitsubishi ASX, including 4 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Mitsubishi ASX has — 26Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling12

01CVT Belt Abrasion and Catastrophic Pulley Failure

Road test for any shudder; a clean test drive without judder with recently serviced fluid is minimum reassurance.petrol2010 onwardTransmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

024N13 Diesel Piston Ring Soot Seizure — Safety Recall (2011-2012)

For any 2011 or 2012 1.8D ASX, verify recall completion via the NZTA recall check tool or the Mitsubishi NZ dealer recall lookup before purchase.diesel2011–2012Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

034J11 2.0L timing chain guide and tensioner wear

Start the engine from cold and listen carefully at the timing cover on the front of the engine for any metallic rattling during the first 30 seconds.petrol2010 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Mitsubishi 4J11 2.0L MIVEC engine uses a single-row timing chain with a plastic guide rail on the slack side and a hydraulic ratcheting tensioner. The plastic guide material degrades from sustained heat cycling and the oil galleries supplying the tensioner can restrict with sludge when oil changes are delayed beyond 10,000km. As the guide wears, the chain begins to slap against the guide rail on cold starts before oil pressure reaches the tensioner. Over time the guide fractures, debris enters the oil circuit, and the chain can jump a tooth on the intake or exhaust camshaft sprocket. A jumped tooth causes significant timing error leading to rough running and potential valve contact. This failure pattern is strongly correlated with extended oil service intervals and incorrect oil viscosity use.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start that fades within 30 seconds
  • Persistent rattling at idle that worsens as mileage increases
  • Rough running or misfires following a rattle episode indicating a jumped tooth
  • Check engine light with camshaft position error codes P0340 or P0345
  • Engine stall or catastrophic valve damage if chain fully skips

What to check

  1. Start the engine from cold and listen carefully at the timing cover on the front of the engine for any metallic rattling during the first 30 seconds.
  2. Request the full oil change history and note any gaps over 10,000km or 12 months.
  3. Inspect dipstick oil for dark sludge indicating neglected service.
  4. Ask whether the vehicle has ever shown a warning light related to engine timing or camshafts.

Where to look: Front of engine block, timing chain cavity behind the alloy timing cover on the right side of the engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the engine ever made a rattling noise on startup?”
  • “Can you show the full oil change history?”
  • “Has the timing chain, guides, or tensioner ever been replaced or inspected?”

04CVT Belt Slip & Torque Capacity Loss at High Mileage

The Jatco-sourced CVT fitted to 2WD ASX variants uses a steel push-belt running between variable-diameter drive and driven pulleys.petrol2010 onwardTransmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

054B11 2.0L Engine Oil Consumption

Check dipstick level and note colour — black, thin oil suggests infrequent changes.petrol2010 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$6,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4B11 2.0L engine in the ASX shares the same piston ring seal vulnerability as the Outlander unit. At higher mileages (typically above 100,000 km), oil consumption above 1 litre per 5,000 km is reported without external leaks. The issue is worsened if extended drain intervals are used. Unchecked, oil starvation can accelerate timing chain tensioner wear, given the chain relies on oil pressure for tensioner function. Buyers of high-mileage ASX examples should treat oil consumption as a likely expense.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level consistently low at service intervals despite no visible leaks
  • Blue smoke briefly visible on cold start
  • Spark plugs show oil fouling on inspection
  • Timing chain rattle on cold start due to low oil pressure

What to check

  1. Check dipstick level and note colour — black, thin oil suggests infrequent changes.
  2. Inspect the air intake tract for oil vapour residue from PCV blowby.
  3. Cold-start the engine and watch for blue exhaust smoke.
  4. Check the timing chain cover area for seepage.

Where to look: Engine internals — piston rings; PCV system in engine bay

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has engine oil ever needed topping up between services?”
  • “What oil change interval has been followed — 10,000 km or shorter?”
  • “Has any blue smoke or timing chain noise been noticed?”

064N13 1.8D DPF Oil Dilution from Incomplete Regeneration

Check the oil level on the dipstick — a reading above maximum with no obvious external leak is a strong indicator of fuel dilution.diesel2010–2022Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07MIVEC Timing Chain Guide Rail Fracture (4B11)

Cold-start the engine and listen carefully at the front of the engine bay for timing chain rattle lasting more than two seconds.petrol2010 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

084B11 2.0L Timing Chain Tensioner Rattle and Stretch

petrol2010–2022Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,500–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2.0-litre 4B11 petrol engine uses a hydraulic timing chain tensioner that loses prime after extended oil-change intervals or at high mileage, allowing chain slack to develop on cold start. A persistent rattle from the front of the engine in the first few seconds after a cold start is the primary indicator; if ignored, the chain stretches sufficiently to cause timing correlation errors (P0016, P0017) and can jump a tooth on the crankshaft or camshaft sprocket, risking piston-to-valve contact and catastrophic engine damage. This failure pattern is documented across EvolutionM forums and multiple engine-specific guides for the 4B11 platform.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling or chattering noise from front of engine on cold start, disappearing within seconds of idle
  • Rattle duration increases as mileage accumulates, eventually persisting longer
  • Check engine light with DTC P0016 or P0017 (camshaft-crankshaft correlation)
  • Rough running or misfires if chain has jumped a tooth
  • Oil pressure low warning in severe cases if tensioner has collapsed

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine and listen from outside with the bonnet open for a metallic rattling or chattering noise from the timing cover area that disappears within 5–10 seconds.
  2. Scan for P0016 or P0017.
  3. Check oil service history — irregular intervals above 10,000 km accelerate tensioner wear.

Where to look: Front of engine, behind timing cover on passenger side of engine bay

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the engine ever been diagnosed for timing chain noise or tensioner wear?”
  • “Can you provide the full oil service history with dates and mileage intervals?”
  • “Has a timing chain kit or tensioner ever been replaced on this engine?”

09Rear AWD Electromagnetic Coupling Wear and Cornering Shudder

AWD variants of the ASX use an electronically-controlled rear multi-plate coupling to transfer torque to the rear axle on demand.2010–2022Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $300–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

AWD variants of the ASX use an electronically-controlled rear multi-plate coupling to transfer torque to the rear axle on demand; the coupling fluid degrades over time and the friction plates wear, producing a pronounced shudder or tramping sensation during slow-speed tight turns such as in car parks or during three-point turns. The condition is frequently misdiagnosed as CVT judder or wheel bearing noise. Early-stage shudder often responds to a genuine Mitsubishi rear coupling fluid drain and refill; advanced friction plate wear or coupling seal failure requires unit replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or tramping vibration through the body during slow tight-radius turns in both directions
  • Vibration diminishes or disappears at higher road speeds or in straight-line driving
  • Traction control or AWD warning light in advanced coupling failure
  • Binding or fighting sensation in steering during low-speed parking maneuvers
  • Burnt or sweet smell from rear of vehicle indicating overheated coupling fluid

What to check

  1. In a safe area, perform slow tight-radius turning circles in both directions — shudder or a rhythmic judder felt through the chassis during these maneuvers is diagnostic of rear coupling wear.
  2. Confirm by switching to front-wheel drive mode if available and repeating the turns; if shudder disappears, the rear coupling is the source.
  3. Check for fluid leaks around the rear coupling unit on the rear axle.

Where to look: Rear of vehicle, rear coupling unit mounted between propeller shaft and rear axle differential

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential coupling fluid ever been serviced or replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever displayed an AWD warning light or been diagnosed with a rear drivetrain fault?”
  • “Does the car shudder or vibrate when performing tight turns at low speed?”

10MIVEC Timing Actuator (OCV) Cold-Start Rattle

Start the engine cold and listen for a metallic rattling from the front-top of the engine during the first 5–20 seconds.petrol2010 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

11CVT INVECS-III Low-Speed Judder and Surge

Test drive at 20–40 km/h with light throttle on a gentle uphill; feel for a rhythmic shudder or hesitation.petrol2010 onwardTransmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

12Air Conditioning Compressor Electromagnetic Clutch Failure

With the engine running and AC switched on, observe whether the compressor clutch hub rotates with the pulley or spins freely.2010–2023Cooling
OccasionalCooling $550–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX air conditioning system uses a belt-driven compressor with an electromagnetic clutch that engages and disengages the compressor pulley from the drive belt. The clutch armature plate and electromagnetic coil are subject to wear and thermal degradation, particularly in vehicles operated in hot climates such as northern New Zealand and Australia. Clutch slip generates significant heat that destroys the armature contact surface and can seize the clutch hub. A seized or failed clutch can also cause drive belt failure if the compressor locks up.

Symptoms to notice

  • Air conditioning system blowing warm air despite being switched on and refrigerant level being correct
  • Loud click or clunk from the engine bay when the AC is activated, followed by no cooling
  • Burning electrical smell from the engine bay when attempting to engage the air conditioning
  • Squealing or rattling from the compressor pulley area when AC is switched off but disappears when AC is on

What to check

  1. With the engine running and AC switched on, observe whether the compressor clutch hub rotates with the pulley or spins freely.
  2. Listen for a loud click when the AC is engaged — absence of a click suggests the clutch coil is not energising.
  3. Check clutch air gap between the armature plate and pulley face (specification is typically 0.3-0.6 mm).
  4. Inspect the armature plate surface for heat blueing or glazing.
  5. Check the AC fuse and relay before condemning the clutch assembly.

Where to look: Front of the engine bay, compressor mounted low on the engine block with the electromagnetic clutch visible at the front pulley face

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning cool effectively on a hot day?”
  • “Has the AC system been regassed or serviced recently?”
  • “Are there any unusual noises from the engine bay when the AC is switched on?”
  • “Has the compressor or AC clutch ever been replaced?”
Electrical3

01Takata airbag inflator recall - must be verified completed

2010–2017Electrical
RareElectrical $0 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX was caught in the compulsory Takata airbag recall in Australia and the equivalent NZ campaign: degraded inflator propellant can rupture the metal housing on deployment and spray shrapnel at occupants. Fixes are free at any Mitsubishi dealer, but imports and cars with lapsed ownership records sometimes slipped through. This is one of the few faults that can kill you in an otherwise healthy car, so a VIN check is non-negotiable on 2010-2017 ASXs.

Symptoms to notice

  • No symptoms - the defect is invisible until airbag deployment

What to check

Run the VIN through the NZTA Takata recall checker (or ismyairbagsafe.com.au) and ask for the dealer stamp or invoice showing the inflator replacement was done.

Where to look: Driver and/or passenger front airbag inflators, steering wheel and dashboard

Ask the seller

  • “Has the Takata airbag recall been completed on this exact car?”
  • “Can you show the recall completion record?”

02Electric Power Steering Motor or Control Unit Failure

Check the instrument cluster for an EPS or power steering warning light on the dashboard.2010–2020Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $1,200–$3,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX uses a column-mounted electric power steering (EPS) system with an electric assist motor and a dedicated EPS electronic control unit. The EPS control unit is susceptible to internal solder joint failure and MOSFET degradation from thermal cycling, particularly in vehicles driven in stop-start urban environments. Motor brush wear and winding failure have also been documented on higher-mileage units. Failure results in loss of power assist, which is immediately detectable but requires significant force to steer at low speeds.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster, with or without accompanying steering heaviness
  • Sudden increase in steering effort at low speeds or when parking, often intermittent before becoming permanent
  • Steering assist cutting out momentarily then returning during low-speed manoeuvring
  • Stored EPS fault codes C1513, C1514, or C1517 when scanned with a compatible diagnostic tool

What to check

  1. Check the instrument cluster for an EPS or power steering warning light on the dashboard.
  2. Test steering effort at low speed in a car park — loss of assist causes markedly heavy steering.
  3. Check steering column harness connectors for corrosion or fretting.
  4. Verify the EPS fuse condition in the main underbonnet fuse box.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: Retrieve fault codes from the EPS control module using an OBD-II scanner with enhanced Mitsubishi protocols.

Where to look: Steering column assembly behind the dashboard fascia, with the EPS ECU typically mounted adjacent to the column or on the firewall

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS or steering warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Does the steering ever feel heavier than normal at low speeds?”
  • “Has the power steering system been inspected or repaired?”
  • “Are there any stored fault codes in the vehicle?”

03Electronic Throttle Body Carbon Fouling and TPS Range Fault

Note any hunting idle, hesitation off idle, or stalling at junctions during the test drive.petrol2010–2022Electrical
CommonElectrical $200–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The drive-by-wire throttle bodies fitted to 4B10, 4B11, and 4B12 petrol engines accumulate carbon deposits on the throttle plate and bore over time, progressively disrupting the throttle position sensor (TPS) reference voltage and triggering P0121, P0122, or P0123 fault codes. The ECM detects TPS values outside the expected operating range and may invoke a torque reduction or limp-home response. A throttle body adaptation or re-learn procedure via scan tool is mandatory after cleaning or replacement, as the ECM must relearn the fully-closed and fully-open voltage references.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hesitation or stumble when pulling away from rest or during gentle acceleration
  • Unstable or hunting idle, particularly when engine is at operating temperature
  • Check engine light with stored codes P0121, P0122, or P0123
  • Vehicle entering reduced-power limp mode limiting throttle response
  • Stalling at low speed or when coming to a stop at traffic lights

What to check

Note any hunting idle, hesitation off idle, or stalling at junctions during the test drive. If a workshop inspection is possible: Scan for DTCs P0121, P0122, P0123 on a pre-purchase OBD scan. With the engine off, remove the air intake hose and visually inspect the throttle plate and bore for heavy carbon deposit build-up — clean examples should show a near-bare aluminium bore.

Where to look: Engine bay, throttle body on inlet manifold downstream of air filter box

Ask the seller

  • “Has the throttle body ever been cleaned or replaced, and was a re-learn performed?”
  • “Has the car ever shown a reduced-power warning or check engine light related to throttle response?”
  • “Does the engine idle smoothly and pull cleanly from low revs?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior11

01Rear Parking Brake Caliper Shaft Corrosion — Safety Recall (2013-2015)

On a gentle slope, apply only the parking brake and release the foot brake; the vehicle must hold position without creeping.2013–2015Brakes
OccasionalBrakes $450–$1,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On 2013 to 2015.5 model year ASXs, inadequate sealing of the integrated rear parking brake caliper allows water ingress that corrodes the parking brake actuator shaft, preventing the parking brake from fully engaging. Mitsubishi issued a formal safety recall in February 2018 covering vehicles built between August 2012 and May 2016; unrepaired examples risk rollaway incidents when parked on any incline. Buyers should verify recall completion through the NZTA safety recall register or a Mitsubishi dealer check before purchase.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle rolls or creeps when parked on a slope with parking brake applied
  • Parking brake lever travel increases progressively without effective braking
  • Visible rust or corrosion on rear caliper parking brake actuator shaft
  • Parking brake warning light may not extinguish fully due to sensor-actuator misalignment
  • Grinding or stiff feel when applying the parking brake lever

What to check

  1. On a gentle slope, apply only the parking brake and release the foot brake; the vehicle must hold position without creeping.
  2. Inspect both rear calipers visually for corrosion around the parking brake actuator mechanism on the rear face of the caliper.
  3. Verify recall completion via the NZTA recall check at www.nzta.govt.nz or request the VIN-specific recall history from a Mitsubishi dealer.

Where to look: Both rear wheels — integrated parking brake mechanism on rear disc brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads, Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has this vehicle had the parking brake caliper recall work completed at a Mitsubishi dealer?”
  • “Has the parking brake ever felt weak or failed to hold on a slope?”
  • “Can you confirm the VIN recall status is clear before I purchase?”

02Rear Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

Apply fore-aft force to the rear wheel by hand and observe bush deflection — collapsed bushes show excessive movement.2010–2023Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $500–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear multi-link suspension on the ASX uses rubber-bonded trailing arm bushes that locate the rear axle fore-aft under acceleration and braking loads. These bushes degrade and collapse after sustained use, particularly in vehicles driven on unsealed roads or subjected to frequent hard braking. Bush failure causes the rear axle to move fore-aft under load, producing handling instability and accelerating rear tyre wear in an asymmetric pattern. The failure is progressive but eventually compromises vehicle stability under emergency braking.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or thudding from the rear suspension under acceleration, braking, or when traversing dips
  • Rear-end instability or a feeling of the car stepping out during cornering at moderate speed
  • Rapid or asymmetric rear tyre wear, particularly on the inner edge
  • Visible cracking, bulging, or rubber separation at the trailing arm mounting bush

What to check

Apply fore-aft force to the rear wheel by hand and observe bush deflection — collapsed bushes show excessive movement. Check rear tyre wear pattern for feathering or uneven edge wear indicating toe variation under load. Look for fresh rubber dust or residue around bush housings. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the rear of the vehicle and inspect trailing arm bush rubber for cracking, bulging, or visible separation from the inner metal sleeve.

Where to look: Rear trailing arm to body mounting points, accessible beneath the rear floor on both sides

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle been used on unsealed or gravel roads regularly?”
  • “Have the rear suspension bushes ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Does the rear end feel stable under hard braking or cornering?”
  • “Are there any knocking noises from the rear of the vehicle?”

03Hydraulic Power Steering Pump Seal Leak and Whine

Inspect the power steering reservoir fluid level and condition (should be clear to light amber, not foamy or dark).petrol2010–2016Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $280–$1,350 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Early ASX variants (pre-facelift and some 2013-2016 models) fitted with a hydraulic power steering (HPS) rack use a belt-driven vane-type pump that develops shaft seal leaks and bearing whine with age. The high-pressure hose banjo fittings are also a known leak point. Loss of fluid causes the pump to whine loudly at full lock and progressively increases steering effort. Running the pump low on fluid accelerates internal wear of the rotor and vanes, ultimately requiring full pump replacement. Some markets saw a mid-cycle transition to electric power steering (EPS), but earlier hydraulic-equipped cars remain in the NZ used-car fleet.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched whining or moaning noise from the engine bay during parking manoeuvres or at full steering lock
  • Power steering fluid puddle under the front of the vehicle, or visible wetness around the pump shaft or high-pressure hose fittings
  • Progressively heavier steering effort at low speeds as fluid level drops
  • Foamy or discoloured power steering fluid in the reservoir indicating air ingestion from a low-fluid condition

What to check

  1. Inspect the power steering reservoir fluid level and condition (should be clear to light amber, not foamy or dark).
  2. Look for fluid weeping at the pump shaft seal, high-pressure hose fittings, and steering rack gaiters.
  3. With engine running, turn the wheel to full lock in each direction and listen for a high-pitched whine — a healthy pump should be near-silent.
  4. Check for power steering fluid staining on the driveway or underside of the engine bay.

Where to look: Power steering pump mounted on front of engine block, driven by accessory belt; high-pressure hose runs to steering rack

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the steering make any whining or groaning noise when turning at low speed or in a car park?”
  • “Has the power steering fluid level ever needed topping up?”
  • “Are there any fluid stains on the driveway where the car is normally parked?”

04Front lower control arm bush wear

Inspect rubber surfaces for splits and oil contamination from nearby seals.2010 onwardSuspension
Very commonSuspension $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX XA through XC front lower control arm uses identical bush specification and subframe mounting geometry to the related Outlander platform. The front pivot rubber bush and rear eccentric alignment bush are subject to the same rubber hydrolysis and shear failure mechanism under NZ road conditions. The ASX's lighter kerb weight reduces absolute load magnitude on the bushes but the same rubber compound and design is used, resulting in comparable fleet failure rates. Bush wear typically manifests after 80,000-120,000km in normal NZ conditions with gravel road exposure advancing the timeline. Many NZ-registered ASX vehicles fail their WoF inspection on this item, and replacement is considered routine maintenance rather than an exceptional repair in the specialist workshop sector.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking from front suspension over road imperfections
  • Steering wander or imprecise straight-line tracking
  • Front tyre feathering or cupping wear pattern
  • Knock when weight transfers rearward during braking
  • WoF failure for front suspension play

What to check

Inspect rubber surfaces for splits and oil contamination from nearby seals. Road test on unsealed or rough chip-seal surfaces listening for any knocking from front corners. Check whether both arms show equal condition as one-sided wear is common after an impact. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, physically rock the front lower arm fore-and-aft and check for any visible bush movement or rubber cracking.

Where to look: Front lower suspension arms, subframe mounting points at the front and rear of each arm

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car been driven regularly on gravel or unsealed roads?”
  • “Any clunking noises from the front suspension?”
  • “Has any suspension work been done including bushes or wheel alignment?”

05Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the rubber boot for cracks, splits, or grease ejection.2010–2023Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arm ball joint on the ASX is a press-fit unit integrated into the lower arm assembly. The rubber boot seal is susceptible to cracking in NZ and AU conditions, allowing moisture and grit ingress that accelerates spherical wear in the joint. Once the boot fails, deterioration is rapid. Worn ball joints create a handling safety risk as the joint can separate under load, causing sudden loss of front wheel geometry control.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps or rough road surfaces
  • Vague or imprecise steering response with front-end wander on straight roads
  • Uneven or accelerated wear on the inner or outer tyre shoulder on the affected side
  • Grease ejected from a split ball joint boot visible on the inside of the wheel or surrounding components

What to check

Inspect the rubber boot for cracks, splits, or grease ejection. Have an assistant watch the joint while you apply load — any visible movement beyond a fraction of a millimetre indicates replacement is required. If a workshop inspection is possible: Lift the front of the vehicle and grasp each front wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock positions, rocking it to check for vertical play in the ball joint. With a pry bar under the tyre, check for vertical movement in the lower ball joint specifically.

Where to look: Lower control arm inner pivot to subframe, and outer ball joint connecting arm to front hub carrier on each front corner

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arm ball joints ever been replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle had any recent wheel alignment work?”
  • “Does the steering feel precise and straight on the motorway?”
  • “When did the vehicle last pass a Warrant of Fitness and were any suspension items noted?”

06Rear Torsion Beam Axle Bush Deterioration

Look for visible cracks, rubber separation from the metal sleeve, or bush compressed to one side.2010 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $320–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX uses a torsion beam (twist-beam) rear axle suspended by large rubber bushes at each mounting point to the body. These bushes are subject to age-hardening, ozone cracking, and splitting — particularly on vehicles exceeding 100,000 km or aged beyond ten years. Deteriorated bushes allow the axle to shift under lateral load, causing unpredictable rear-end handling and tyre scrub. In severe cases the metal sleeve can separate from the rubber, allowing the axle to contact the body. The condition is often missed at casual inspection because the bushes are partially hidden by the body structure. NZ/AU roads and UV exposure accelerate rubber degradation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or banging from the rear suspension over bumps, potholes, or when reversing over a driveway lip
  • Rear end feels loose or skittish during cornering or lane changes at highway speeds
  • Rapid or uneven rear tyre wear with a toe-error pattern (inner or outer edge wear on one or both rear tyres)
  • Visible cracking, splitting, or displacement of rubber in the rear axle mounting bushes on underbody inspection

What to check

Look for visible cracks, rubber separation from the metal sleeve, or bush compressed to one side. With an assistant moving the rear of the car laterally by hand, observe the bush for any clunking or visible movement beyond normal compliance. Check rear tyre wear for a toed-in or toed-out rear pattern indicating axle misalignment. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, inspect each rear axle bush from below.

Where to look: Rear torsion beam axle, two large rubber-bonded bushes at the forward mounting brackets inboard of each rear wheel

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car had any rear suspension work done, including bush or axle replacement?”
  • “Does the rear end clunk over bumps or feel loose during highway lane changes?”
  • “Have the rear tyres worn evenly across their width?”

07Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Remove brake caliper and manually slide each guide pin in and out of its bore — a free-sliding pin requires minimal force and should move smoothly.2010–2023Brakes
CommonBrakes $280–$750 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front and rear brake calipers on the ASX use sliding guide pins that allow the caliper body to float and apply equal pressure to both brake pads as the disc is clamped. These guide pins are lubricated with high-temperature grease and protected by rubber boots, but the boots deteriorate over time, allowing moisture to displace the grease and cause the steel pin to corrode within its aluminium caliper bore. A seized guide pin causes the caliper to apply uneven clamping force, resulting in one brake pad wearing significantly faster than the other and generating braking bias.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking as the seized caliper generates more or less force than the opposite side
  • One brake pad worn to metal while the opposite pad on the same caliper retains significant material
  • Brake disc overheating and bluing on the face contacted by the pad forced against it by the seized caliper
  • Dragging sensation or reduced fuel economy caused by the caliper remaining partially applied after the brake pedal is released

What to check

  1. Remove brake caliper and manually slide each guide pin in and out of its bore — a free-sliding pin requires minimal force and should move smoothly.
  2. A seized pin will not move by hand or will require significant force.
  3. Inspect guide pin boots for cracks, tears, or missing sections.
  4. Compare inner and outer brake pad thickness on each caliper — a difference of more than 2 mm indicates a seized guide pin on that corner.
  5. Inspect disc surface for uneven wear scoring on one face only.

Where to look: Sliding guide pins on both front and rear brake caliper bodies at each wheel corner

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the brake calipers ever been serviced or the guide pins replaced?”
  • “Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking?”
  • “Have the brakes been inspected recently and were pad wear levels even across all corners?”
  • “Has any one brake disc needed replacement sooner than the others?”

08Rear Brake Caliper Piston Seizure

After a test drive, carefully feel each rear rotor for excessive heat — a seized caliper will cause one side to be significantly hotter.2010 onwardBrakes
CommonBrakes $220–$580 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear sliding-pin calipers on the ASX are prone to piston seizure in New Zealand and Australian conditions due to moisture intrusion past degraded piston dust seals and corrosion of the piston bore. A seized piston either fails to retract after braking (causing constant pad drag and rapid lining wear) or fails to advance fully (causing one-sided braking). The sliding pins in the caliper bracket are also susceptible to corrosion, reducing the caliper's ability to self-centre. Vehicles used in coastal or high-rainfall environments are disproportionately affected. The condition can progress unnoticed until a WoF inspection or until the rear rotor overheats and warps.

Symptoms to notice

  • One rear rotor significantly hotter than the other after a moderate drive, with associated burning smell
  • Rear brake pads worn unevenly side-to-side, or one pad worn to metal while the opposite is near-new
  • Vehicle pulls to one side under moderate braking, particularly noticeable on a straight dry road
  • Squealing, grinding, or dragging sensation from the rear when driving with no brake pedal applied

What to check

After a test drive, carefully feel each rear rotor for excessive heat — a seized caliper will cause one side to be significantly hotter. Inspect piston dust boots for cracking or missing seals. Attempt to slide each caliper on its pins by hand (with pins released) — they should move freely with light effort. Measure rear pad thickness on both sides and compare; unequal wear indicates caliper drag.

Where to look: Rear axle, outboard of each rear hub — one caliper per side

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear brakes ever been serviced or calipers replaced?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side under braking, or is there a dragging sensation from the rear?”
  • “Has the vehicle been used or parked near the coast or in a high-rainfall area?”

09Front control arm bushes and ball joints wearing early

Look at the front tyres for inner-edge wear.2010–2023Suspension
Very commonSuspension $300–$800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

ASXs are known for chewing through front lower control arm bushes and ball joints, which shows up as clunks over bumps, vague steering, uneven front tyre wear and failed WOF checks in NZ. The rear hydraulic bush in each front arm is the usual culprit; many workshops fit complete aftermarket arms because pressing bushes costs nearly as much. It's a wear item, but on the ASX it arrives earlier than most rivals and is one of the most common WOF failure points for the model.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk from the front over bumps or on braking
  • Vague or wandering steering
  • Uneven wear on the inside edge of front tyres
  • Steering wheel shimmy under braking

What to check

  1. Look at the front tyres for inner-edge wear.
  2. On a test drive, listen for front-end clunks over speed bumps.
  3. Check recent WOF history (NZ) - repeated suspension-related fails or recent control arm invoices tell the story.

Where to look: Front lower control arms, behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front control arms or bushes been replaced?”
  • “When did it last pass a WOF and were there any notes?”

10Rear Tailgate Gas Strut Failure

Open the tailgate fully and release it.2010 onwardBody & Rust
Very commonBody & Rust $70–$180 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The ASX tailgate uses gas-pressurised struts that reliably fail after 6–9 years of use. The hatch will no longer hold its open position and drops, posing an injury risk. This is the most frequently reported minor defect on used ASX examples sold at auction and private sale in NZ and AU. Struts are inexpensive aftermarket items but should be confirmed replaced before purchase to avoid immediate out-of-pocket cost.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hatch drops under its own weight when released
  • Tailgate requires manual support to remain open
  • Rattling or clunking from hatch area on rough roads
  • Visible oil weep on piston rod of one or both struts

What to check

  1. Open the tailgate fully and release it.
  2. It must hold open unassisted.
  3. Inspect the strut bodies and rods for oil film or corrosion.
  4. Check both struts — they typically fail within months of each other.

Where to look: Both sides of the tailgate aperture between body C-pillar and tailgate inner panel

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the tailgate struts been replaced, and if so when?”
  • “Does the tailgate hold itself fully open without support?”

11Clear coat peel and thin factory paint

In direct sunlight, sight along the roof, bonnet and top of the tailgate for dull, milky or peeling clear coat.2010–2019Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $800–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishis of this era, the ASX included, have thin factory paint, and NZ/AU sun exposure commonly causes clear coat peeling on the roof, bonnet and above the windscreen, plus easy stone chipping on the bonnet's leading edge. Red and white cars fare worst. It's cosmetic, but a respray of the roof and bonnet costs real money and peeling paint drags down resale.

Symptoms to notice

  • Milky or cloudy patches on roof/bonnet
  • Clear coat lifting or flaking at panel edges
  • Heavy stone chips on the bonnet leading edge

What to check

In direct sunlight, sight along the roof, bonnet and top of the tailgate for dull, milky or peeling clear coat. Check whether any panels have been resprayed (masking lines, overspray in door jambs).

Where to look: Roof, bonnet, upper tailgate - horizontal sun-exposed panels

Ask the seller

  • “Has any paintwork been redone?”
  • “Has the car lived outside or garaged?”

Mitsubishi ASX faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mitsubishi ASX’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mitsubishi models

Mitsubishi ASX buyer questions

Is the Mitsubishi ASX reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 26 documented faults for the Mitsubishi ASX, the recurring problem areas are transmission, engine, and electrical. A Mitsubishi ASX with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mitsubishi ASX?

We've catalogued 26 known faults for the Mitsubishi ASX, covering transmission, engine, and electrical. All 26 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mitsubishi ASX?

Most single repairs on the Mitsubishi ASX fall between $350–$1,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 26 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mitsubishi ASX?

Yes. A Mitsubishi ASX inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.