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Mitsubishi1996–2015 Critical issues documented

Mitsubishi Galant: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Mitsubishi Galant (1996–2015) in New Zealand? We've documented 13 known faults for this model spanning engine, transmission, fluid leaks, and suspension. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Mitsubishi Galant

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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13

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$650–$1,800

Typical repair

5

Systems covered

Which Mitsubishi Galant are you looking at?

4 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Mitsubishi Galant

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Mitsubishi GalantEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Galant came with 5, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishi Galant

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mitsubishi Galant before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Prioritise timing belt inspection above all other checks.

    See why

    4G93/4G64 Timing Belt Failure in Interference Engine

    The 4G93 1.8L and 4G64 2.4L engines fitted to the Galant EA/EC are interference engines where timing belt failure causes immediate piston-to-valve contact and bent valves. Belts are due every 100,000 km or 5 years, but many NZ/AU used imports arrive with unknown belt history. A snapped belt causes immediate engine destruction requiring a full rebuild or replacement, making inspection of belt history critical before purchase.

    What you would notice

    • Engine cranks but will not start (belt has already snapped)
    • Ticking noise from cambelt area indicating tensioner or idler pulley wear
    • Coolant or oil leak near timing cover that can saturate and destroy the belt
    • Visible cracking, fraying, or glazing on belt when cover is removed

    Typically $500–$8,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Ask for documented proof the timing belt, tensioner and water pump were replaced within the last ~100,000 km or roughly 7 years.

    See why

    Timing belt failure on interference 4G6/6A13 engines

    The 4G63/4G64 four-cylinder and 6A13 V6 engines in the 8th-gen Galant/Legnum are all belt-driven interference designs. A snapped or skipped timing belt lets pistons strike open valves, causing bent valves and catastrophic internal damage. On ~20-year-old imports the belt is often overdue or of unknown age.

    What you would notice

    • No service record proving belt was changed
    • Ticking or slapping noise from the front timing cover
    • Engine will not start or lost compression after belt let go
    • Oil weeping from cam/crank seals behind the timing cover

    Typically $650–$1,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Spin both idler pulleys by hand and feel for any roughness, notchiness or axial play indicating bearing wear.

    See why

    6A12/6A13 V6 Timing Belt Tensioner & Idler Failure

    The 6A12 2.0L and 6A13 2.5L DOHC V6 engines use a hydraulic auto-tensioner with spring-loaded damper and two idler pulleys on a long dual-overhead-cam belt path. The tensioner hydraulic cartridge seals degrade with age, losing damping pressure and allowing belt flutter. Idler bearings develop roughness from heat cycling and contaminated oil vapour ingress. The 6A13TT twin-turbo configuration is a fully interference engine — piston-to-valve contact occurs on belt failure. Factory service interval is 100,000 km but NZ/AU imports frequently have unverified Japanese service histories, making tensioner and idler bearing failure the primary catastrophic risk on these engines. Turbo heat soak in 6A13TT applications accelerates idler bearing grease breakdown beyond the naturally aspirated rate.

    What you would notice

    • High-pitched ticking or chirping from front of engine at idle
    • Squealing from behind timing belt cover on cold start
    • Rough running or misfires if belt has jumped a tooth on interference variant
    • Sudden engine stall with no restart on complete belt failure

    Typically $650–$1,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    With the engine cold, inspect the plastic top tank and its seam with the metal core for cracks, staining or dried coolant.

    See why

    Cracked radiator plastic top tank causing coolant loss

    The factory radiator uses plastic end tanks that become brittle with age and heat cycling, and the top tank commonly cracks and weeps coolant on the 8th-gen Galant/Legnum. Owners widely report the failure and replace the unit with an all-aluminium radiator as a durable fix, particularly important on the turbo VR-4.

    What you would notice

    • Coolant smell or visible weeping from the top of the radiator
    • Slowly dropping coolant level and needing top-ups
    • Rising temperature gauge or overheating under load
    • Crusty dried coolant residue along the plastic top tank seam

    Typically $400–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check SST fluid condition and service history.

    See why

    SST Dual-Clutch Cold Shudder & Harsh Engagement

    The Sport Shift Transmission twin-clutch unit fitted to the CZ4A Galant Fortis Sport and Ralliart exhibits pronounced shudder and jerky low-speed engagement when operated cold. The wet clutch packs require Mitsubishi-specific SST fluid and deteriorate rapidly when contaminated with conventional ATF or when overheated by aggressive low-speed manoeuvring. Incorrect fluid causes clutch slip at low speed, shuddering on take-off, and rough 1-2 upshifts persisting until the transmission reaches full operating temperature. TCU clutch adaptation gradually compensates for early deterioration, masking the underlying wear.

    What you would notice

    • Shudder or judder on take-off from rest, especially when cold
    • Harsh or jerky 1 to 2 gear changes under light throttle
    • Transmission hesitation before engaging drive from a cold standstill
    • Clunking noise when selecting reverse or drive after overnight park

    Typically $1,200–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check engine oil level and sniff for petrol contamination — a distinct petrol odour indicates oil dilution.

    See why

    4G93 GDI Injector Coking & Cold-Start Oil Dilution

    The 4G93 GDI 1.8L engine injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure rather than upstream of the intake valve. During cold-start enrichment, excess fuel washes past the piston rings and dissolves into sump oil, causing measurable viscosity breakdown that accelerates bearing wear before the oil is changed. Crucially, because intake valves are bypassed by the injected fuel stream — unlike port injection — carbon deposits accumulate progressively on valve stems and seat faces, restricting airflow and causing asymmetric cylinder charging. High-pressure injector nozzle tips are also susceptible to coking that distorts the spray pattern geometry, generating uneven fuel distribution and misfire codes. These are inherent first-generation GDI design limitations compounded by short oil change intervals being observed on Japanese domestic market cars.

    What you would notice

    • Rough idle on cold start that improves as engine reaches operating temperature
    • Black or white smoke on cold start, particularly in winter
    • Oil smells of petrol or dipstick oil level rises between changes
    • Misfires or hesitation under light throttle load
    • Poor fuel economy relative to the 1.8L displacement

    Typically $400–$1,800 to put right.

See all 13 documented issuesEverything researched for the Mitsubishi Galant, including 3 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Mitsubishi Galant has — 13Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling10

014G93/4G64 Timing Belt Failure in Interference Engine

Prioritise timing belt inspection above all other checks.petrol1996–2012Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Timing belt failure on interference 4G6/6A13 engines

Ask for documented proof the timing belt, tensioner and water pump were replaced within the last ~100,000 km or roughly 7 years.petrol1996–2005Engine
CommonEngine $650–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4G63/4G64 four-cylinder and 6A13 V6 engines in the 8th-gen Galant/Legnum are all belt-driven interference designs. A snapped or skipped timing belt lets pistons strike open valves, causing bent valves and catastrophic internal damage. On ~20-year-old imports the belt is often overdue or of unknown age.

Symptoms to notice

  • No service record proving belt was changed
  • Ticking or slapping noise from the front timing cover
  • Engine will not start or lost compression after belt let go
  • Oil weeping from cam/crank seals behind the timing cover

What to check

Ask for documented proof the timing belt, tensioner and water pump were replaced within the last ~100,000 km or roughly 7 years. On the 6A13 V6 remove the upper cover if possible to check belt condition. Treat an unknown-age belt as due for replacement and budget accordingly before purchase.

Where to look: Front of engine behind the plastic timing cover (crankshaft, camshaft and water pump pulleys)

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “Do you have a receipt showing when the timing belt was last done and at what odometer reading?”
  • “Was the water pump and tensioner replaced at the same time?”
  • “How many kilometres have been driven since the last belt change?”

036A12/6A13 V6 Timing Belt Tensioner & Idler Failure

Spin both idler pulleys by hand and feel for any roughness, notchiness or axial play indicating bearing wear.petrol1996–2004Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04SST Clutch Disc Wear & Slip Under Hard Acceleration

Test drive with full-throttle acceleration from low speed in 1st and 3rd gear.petrol2008–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $2,200–$5,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

At high mileage above 100,000 km, the wet clutch disc friction material in the SST twin-clutch unit wears below minimum thickness, causing clutch slip under hard acceleration and high-load upshifts. The SST uses two separate clutch packs for odd and even gear sets. Clutch pack 1 covering 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears typically wears first due to the cumulative load from launches and low-speed engagement cycles. Symptoms include rpm flare without corresponding vehicle acceleration under hard throttle. The TCU can partially mask slip by advancing clutch engagement timing, delaying owner awareness until wear is severe enough to require full clutch pack replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • RPM flare without proportional acceleration under full or hard throttle
  • Clutch slip detectable in 1st and 3rd gear under maximum load
  • Burnt SST fluid smell after spirited or uphill driving
  • Transmission warning light or TCU clutch slip fault codes
  • Noticeably reduced acceleration compared to earlier in ownership

What to check

  1. Test drive with full-throttle acceleration from low speed in 1st and 3rd gear.
  2. Any rpm flare without commensurate forward thrust confirms clutch slip.
  3. Check SST fluid for burnt smell and dark contamination from clutch material breakdown.
  4. Scan TCU for clutch slip adaptation values at maximum limits or stored fault codes.
  5. Ask about odometer and full SST service history.

Where to look: SST transmission clutch pack 1 and pack 2 assemblies inside transaxle unit

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “What is the total odometer and has the SST clutch pack ever been replaced or the unit rebuilt?”
  • “Has the vehicle been used for track days, towing, or sustained aggressive driving?”
  • “Does the car show any hesitation or rpm flare under hard acceleration?”

05SST Dual-Clutch Cold Shudder & Harsh Engagement

Check SST fluid condition and service history.petrol2007–2015Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,200–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The Sport Shift Transmission twin-clutch unit fitted to the CZ4A Galant Fortis Sport and Ralliart exhibits pronounced shudder and jerky low-speed engagement when operated cold. The wet clutch packs require Mitsubishi-specific SST fluid and deteriorate rapidly when contaminated with conventional ATF or when overheated by aggressive low-speed manoeuvring. Incorrect fluid causes clutch slip at low speed, shuddering on take-off, and rough 1-2 upshifts persisting until the transmission reaches full operating temperature. TCU clutch adaptation gradually compensates for early deterioration, masking the underlying wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or judder on take-off from rest, especially when cold
  • Harsh or jerky 1 to 2 gear changes under light throttle
  • Transmission hesitation before engaging drive from a cold standstill
  • Clunking noise when selecting reverse or drive after overnight park

What to check

  1. Check SST fluid condition and service history.
  2. Correct fluid should be clear to pale pink, not dark or burnt-smelling.
  3. Test drive from a fully cold start including repeated slow-speed manoeuvring.
  4. Scan the TCU for clutch adaptation codes at limits.
  5. Confirm Mitsubishi genuine SST fluid is present, not substituted generic ATF.

Where to look: Twin-clutch transmission transaxle unit, clutch pack assemblies 1 and 2

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the SST fluid last changed and what specific fluid was used?”
  • “Has the transmission been serviced by a Mitsubishi dealer or SST-trained specialist?”
  • “Does the car shudder or hesitate when pulling away gently from cold?”

064B11 Timing Chain Tensioner Cold-Start Rattle

Start engine from cold and listen immediately for chain rattle from the top-end timing cover area.petrol2007–2015Engine
OccasionalEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The hydraulic timing chain tensioner on the 4B11 2.0 MIVEC engine loses oil pressure retention after extended cold soaks at high mileage, typically above 120,000 km. On cold start, the slack chain produces a characteristic metallic rattle for 2 to 5 seconds until oil pressure builds. Worn tensioner ratchet teeth and chain elongation cause progressive timing retard, triggering P0340 or P0345 camshaft position sensor faults. Left unaddressed, the chain can jump a tooth causing catastrophic valve-to-piston contact and bent valves.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling from top of engine on cold start lasting 2 to 5 seconds
  • P0340 or P0345 camshaft position sensor DTC stored
  • Slight hesitation or rough running when cold
  • Timing chain noise audible from timing cover side of engine

What to check

  1. Start engine from cold and listen immediately for chain rattle from the top-end timing cover area.
  2. Scan for P0340 and P0345 codes.
  3. Check full service history for tensioner or chain replacement.
  4. Inspect oil condition and confirm change interval compliance with full synthetic 5W-30.

Where to look: Front of engine at timing chain cover, upper hydraulic chain tensioner and guide rail

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain tensioner or chain guide ever been replaced?”
  • “What is the oil change interval and type of oil used throughout ownership?”
  • “Has the engine ever thrown a camshaft position sensor fault code?”

076A12 V6 Head Gasket Weep Between Cylinders 4-5

Test coolant for combustion gases using a block tester dipped into the coolant reservoir — colour change indicates head gasket breach.petrol1996–2004Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,400–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 6A12 2.0L DOHC V6 has a documented weakness in the rear cylinder bank head gasket, specifically at the fire ring between cylinders 4 and 5. The rear bank runs at higher thermal load than the front bank due to restricted coolant flow through the longer coolant galleries in the V arrangement, and the narrow bridge of gasket material between the adjacent bores is the point of minimum sealing area. Thermal cycling fatigue causes micro-cracking of the multi-layer steel fire ring, initially allowing combustion pressure to bleed into the coolant circuit (detectable by combustion gas testing) before progressing to coolant loss, white exhaust smoke, and eventual cross-contamination of oil and coolant. The 6A12 also exhibits internal coolant passage corrosion that reduces gasket clamping uniformity, accelerating the failure progression. Engines with any history of overheating are at significantly elevated risk.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • White sweet-smelling smoke from exhaust, most pronounced on cold start
  • Coolant level drops with no visible external leaks
  • Bubbling or pressurisation in coolant reservoir with engine at operating temperature
  • Oil dipstick shows frothy or milky emulsification if coolant is entering sump
  • Overheating tendency in stop-start traffic or when towing

What to check

  1. Test coolant for combustion gases using a block tester dipped into the coolant reservoir — colour change indicates head gasket breach.
  2. Check oil dipstick and filler cap for milky emulsification.
  3. Inspect the rear cylinder bank head-to-block mating surface for external coolant weeping or staining.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Pressure test the cooling system cold and watch for pressure drop with engine running.

Where to look: Rear bank of the 6A12 V6 — the cylinder bank facing the firewall, at the mating surface between the rear cylinder head and block between the two rearmost cylinders

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever overheated or run hot?”
  • “Does the coolant level require topping up periodically?”
  • “Is there any white smoke from the exhaust particularly on cold start?”

08AWD Front Differential Bearing Noise Under Cornering

petrol1997–2004Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $500–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Galant EA VR-4 and AWD variants use a front differential integrated into the transfer case assembly that distributes drive torque to the front axles via constant velocity joints. The differential's side and pinion bearings are subject to combined loading from drive torque and lateral cornering forces simultaneously, which accelerates wear compared to a rear differential. As bearings wear — most commonly from contaminated or low differential oil resulting from missed service intervals on imported vehicles — a distinctive load-dependent humming or droning develops. The noise pitch changes as the vehicle turns left or right, shifting the lateral bearing load between the two sides. The front differential is difficult to access independently and differential oil is routinely omitted from service schedules, meaning this failure is directly linked to maintenance neglect on NZ/AU imports.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or droning noise that changes in pitch when steering left versus right
  • Noise intensity increases proportionally with vehicle speed
  • Vibration felt through floor at highway speeds, varying with steering input
  • Noise changes during lane changes on a motorway

What to check

  1. Drive at 60-80 km/h on a smooth road and gently weave the steering left and right — a bearing noise will clearly shift intensity with lateral load transfer.
  2. If a workshop inspection is possible: Raise the front on a hoist and spin each front wheel by hand listening and feeling for bearing roughness.
  3. Remove the front differential filler plug and check oil level and condition — contaminated or low oil indicates chronic service neglect.

Where to look: Front of the drivetrain — front differential housing integrated with the AWD transfer case, driver-side of the engine bay behind the front differential output shafts

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front differential oil been changed and when was it last serviced?”
  • “Does the car make any droning or humming noises at highway speeds?”
  • “Does the noise change when you turn the steering wheel slightly left or right?”

094G93 GDI Injector Coking & Cold-Start Oil Dilution

Check engine oil level and sniff for petrol contamination — a distinct petrol odour indicates oil dilution.petrol1996–2002Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10Cracked radiator plastic top tank causing coolant loss

With the engine cold, inspect the plastic top tank and its seam with the metal core for cracks, staining or dried coolant.1996–2005Cooling
Very commonCooling $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The factory radiator uses plastic end tanks that become brittle with age and heat cycling, and the top tank commonly cracks and weeps coolant on the 8th-gen Galant/Legnum. Owners widely report the failure and replace the unit with an all-aluminium radiator as a durable fix, particularly important on the turbo VR-4.

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant smell or visible weeping from the top of the radiator
  • Slowly dropping coolant level and needing top-ups
  • Rising temperature gauge or overheating under load
  • Crusty dried coolant residue along the plastic top tank seam

What to check

  1. With the engine cold, inspect the plastic top tank and its seam with the metal core for cracks, staining or dried coolant.
  2. Check the coolant level and look for residue in the overflow bottle.
  3. Run the engine to temperature and watch the gauge, and check whether an aftermarket aluminium radiator has already been fitted.

Where to look: Radiator top tank (plastic end tank) at the front of the engine bay

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the radiator ever cracked or been replaced, and was it upgraded to aluminium?”
  • “Does the car ever run hot in traffic or lose coolant?”
  • “When was the cooling system last flushed and pressure tested?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior2

01Worn front lower control arm and ball joint

On a hoist, lever the bottom of each front wheel to check for play in the lower ball joint and listen/feel for worn bushings.1996–2005Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$950 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arms wear out on these cars, and the ball joint is integral to the arm so the whole arm must be replaced as a unit rather than just the joint. Owners report creaking, squeaking and knocking over bumps as bushings and the ball joint deteriorate with age and kilometres.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Creaking or knocking from the front over bumps and speed humps
  • Clunk when turning or going over rough surfaces
  • Vague or wandering steering
  • Uneven front tyre wear
  • Play felt at the wheel when levered on a hoist

What to check

  1. On a hoist, lever the bottom of each front wheel to check for play in the lower ball joint and listen/feel for worn bushings.
  2. Inspect the rubber control-arm bushings for cracking and the ball joint boot for splits.
  3. Note the joint is not separately serviceable, so a failed joint means a full arm replacement per side.

Where to look: Front suspension, lower control arm on each side (ball joint at the outer end)

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Is there any knocking or creaking from the front suspension over bumps?”
  • “When was the front suspension last inspected for a warrant of fitness?”

02Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Visually inspect ball joint boots for cracks or grease loss.petrol1996–2012Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The front lower control arm ball joints on the EA/EC Galant wear prematurely, particularly on high-mileage JDM imports common in the NZ used market. Age-hardened boots crack and allow water ingress, accelerating joint wear. Some variants require full arm replacement as the ball joint cannot be pressed out independently. Failure causes steering wander, clunking, and potential loss of wheel alignment geometry.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps or during cornering
  • Steering wander or pulling to one side at highway speeds
  • Uneven front tyre wear — feathering or inside edge degradation
  • Looseness detected when rocking front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock

What to check

Visually inspect ball joint boots for cracks or grease loss. Check for rust at the ball joint area. On JDM imports with high mileage, inspect both lower arms as deterioration is typically bilateral. Check tyre wear for alignment evidence. If a workshop inspection is possible: With car on hoist, grab each front wheel and check for play in all directions.

Where to look: Front suspension, lower control arms on both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arms or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Has a WOF inspection flagged any front suspension play?”
  • “Is the steering straight and stable at highway speeds?”
Fluid leaks1

01Power Steering Rack Internal Seal Leak

Check power steering fluid reservoir level and condition.petrol1996–2012Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $650–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The hydraulic power steering rack on the Galant develops internal and external seal leaks with age, causing gradual fluid loss and increasingly heavy or jerky steering. Rack seals harden and crack over time, and leaks are often slow enough to go unnoticed until fluid level is critically low. Full rack replacement is the typical repair at NZ workshop rates as rack rebuilding is rarely cost-effective.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid level drops repeatedly with no visible large external leak
  • Whining or groaning noise from steering pump when turning at low speed
  • Fluid residue or dampness on or around the steering rack body
  • Heavy or stiff steering particularly when cold or parking

What to check

  1. Check power steering fluid reservoir level and condition.
  2. Inspect under the car along the steering rack for signs of fluid seepage or residue.
  3. Check the rack gaiter boots for fluid contamination.
  4. Test steering feel at full lock in both directions — groaning indicates low fluid or pump strain from an ongoing leak.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted across the front subframe behind the engine

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid level ever needed topping up?”
  • “Has any steering noise or heaviness been noticed?”
  • “Has the steering rack or pump been replaced or repaired?”

Mitsubishi Galant faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mitsubishi Galant’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mitsubishi models

Mitsubishi Galant buyer questions

Is the Mitsubishi Galant reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 13 documented faults for the Mitsubishi Galant, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and fluid leaks. A Mitsubishi Galant with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mitsubishi Galant?

We've catalogued 13 known faults for the Mitsubishi Galant, covering engine, transmission, and fluid leaks. All 13 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mitsubishi Galant?

Most single repairs on the Mitsubishi Galant fall between $650–$1,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 13 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mitsubishi Galant?

Yes. A Mitsubishi Galant inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.