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Nissan2010–2020 Critical issues documented

Nissan Juke F16: common faults & what to check

The F16 is the Nissan Juke built 2020 onward. It was sold here with the 1.0 turbo petrol and 1.6 hybrid. Of the 21 faults documented for the Juke, 3 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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21

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$350–$2,800

Typical repair

8

Systems covered

You're looking at the F16

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2021 Nissan Juke is the F16 generation (2020 to now).

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Nissan Juke F16Engine not picked yet

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Can't confirm for this car

Nissan Juke · 2021

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

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matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan Juke before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Worth checking

    Check the dash for warning lights on start-up and again after the test drive.

    See why

    Forward collision warning false alerts and sensor faults

    Owners of 2020-on Jukes report the forward collision warning / autonomous emergency braking system throwing intermittent warning lights or intervening too eagerly, sometimes braking for parked cars or roadside furniture. Dirt on the camera or radar, misalignment after windscreen or bumper work, or a genuinely faulty sensor are the usual causes. A sensor replacement plus recalibration is a dealer-level job.

    What you would notice

    • Orange forward-collision or AEB warning light on the dash
    • System unavailable message in poor weather
    • Car braking unexpectedly with nothing ahead
    • Warnings triggered by parked cars on bends

    Typically $300–$1,500 to put right.

  • Worth checking

    Lift the boot floor and check the spare wheel well for standing water, rust stains or tide marks.

    See why

    Water leaks into the boot and rear footwells

    Multiple owners of the second-generation Juke report water pooling in the boot well or soaking the rear carpets after heavy rain. The usual culprits are the tailgate seal, poorly-seated rear light cluster seals, and the rear body pressure vents, which need resealing or replacing. Left unfixed it breeds mould, damages the spare wheel area, and can corrode electrical connectors in the boot floor.

    What you would notice

    • Damp or musty smell inside
    • Water in the spare wheel well
    • Wet rear carpet or boot floor after rain
    • Condensation on the inside of the rear glass

    Typically $150–$600 to put right.

See all 3 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked.
Electrical1

01Forward collision warning false alerts and sensor faults

Check the dash for warning lights on start-up and again after the test drive.2020 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $300–$1,500 to fix

Owners of 2020-on Jukes report the forward collision warning / autonomous emergency braking system throwing intermittent warning lights or intervening too eagerly, sometimes braking for parked cars or roadside furniture. Dirt on the camera or radar, misalignment after windscreen or bumper work, or a genuinely faulty sensor are the usual causes. A sensor replacement plus recalibration is a dealer-level job.

Symptoms to notice

  • Orange forward-collision or AEB warning light on the dash
  • System unavailable message in poor weather
  • Car braking unexpectedly with nothing ahead
  • Warnings triggered by parked cars on bends

What to check

  1. Check the dash for warning lights on start-up and again after the test drive.
  2. Ask whether the windscreen has ever been replaced — the camera must be recalibrated afterwards and often isn't.
  3. Look for evidence of front bumper repairs that could have disturbed the radar.

Where to look: Camera at the top of the windscreen behind the mirror, radar behind the front bumper/grille badge

Ask the seller

  • “Has the windscreen ever been replaced, and was the camera recalibrated?”
  • “Do any driver-assist warning lights ever appear?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

02Water leaks into the boot and rear footwells

Lift the boot floor and check the spare wheel well for standing water, rust stains or tide marks.2020 onwardBody & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $150–$600 to fix

Multiple owners of the second-generation Juke report water pooling in the boot well or soaking the rear carpets after heavy rain. The usual culprits are the tailgate seal, poorly-seated rear light cluster seals, and the rear body pressure vents, which need resealing or replacing. Left unfixed it breeds mould, damages the spare wheel area, and can corrode electrical connectors in the boot floor.

Symptoms to notice

  • Damp or musty smell inside
  • Water in the spare wheel well
  • Wet rear carpet or boot floor after rain
  • Condensation on the inside of the rear glass

What to check

  1. Lift the boot floor and check the spare wheel well for standing water, rust stains or tide marks.
  2. Press on the rear carpets with your palm and feel for damp.
  3. Sniff for mustiness with the doors just opened.
  4. Check the tailgate rubber seal for pinches or gaps and look for previous sealant repairs around the rear lights.

Where to look: Boot floor / spare wheel well, tailgate seal, rear light clusters and rear bumper vents

Ask the seller

  • “Has it ever leaked water into the boot?”
  • “Has the tailgate seal or rear lights ever been resealed?”
Depends on the exact engine — 1 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling1

017-speed DCT low-speed hesitation and lurching (1.0 DIG-T auto)

Test drive in traffic conditions: repeated stop-start take-offs, a hill start, and reversing up a slight incline.petrol2020 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Nissan Juke engines and years18 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling11

01MR16DDT Big-End Bearing Failure (Oil Dilution)

Start cold and listen for a low-frequency rhythmic knock that increases with RPM.petrol2010–2020EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02CVT Belt Slip and Shudder from NS2 Fluid Degradation

Test drive at low-speed light throttle on flat road and on slight incline.petrol2010–2019TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03CVT judder, overheating and premature failure (Jatco JF015E)

petrol2010–2019TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04MR16DDT Turbocharger Bearing Oil Starvation Failure

Spin the compressor wheel by hand and feel for shaft play or roughness.petrol2011–2019EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05MR16DDT 1.6T Timing Chain Stretch and Tensioner Failure

Start cold and listen for chain rattle from the front right of the engine for the first 30 seconds.petrol2010–2019EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Jatco JF015E CVT Push-Belt Judder and Shudder

Check CVT fluid condition and colour — healthy fluid is red and translucent, degraded fluid turns dark brown or black and smells burnt.petrol2010–2019TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

071.6 DIG-T high oil consumption and turbo failures

Pull the dipstick — low or black oil on a freshly-advertised car is a red flag.petrol2010–2019EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08AWD Rear Electromagnetic Coupling Shudder and Failure

On a quiet road, perform several slow full-lock U-turns in both directions.petrol2010–2018Transmission
CommonTransmission $1,200–$3,800 to fix

Does not apply

The AWD Juke uses a BorgWarner electronically controlled rear coupling unit (Haldex-type) to distribute torque to the rear wheels. The coupling's internal clutch pack wears prematurely and its dedicated fluid degrades, causing a shudder or judder that is most pronounced during slow-speed tight turns or parking manoeuvres. In advanced cases the coupling overheats, triggers a 4WD warning light, and the system defaults to front-wheel drive only. Replacement units are expensive and the fault is frequently misdiagnosed as a tyre or suspension issue.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration felt through the floor during slow-speed tight turns or parking
  • Judder worsens when turning on low-traction surfaces such as gravel or wet grass
  • 4WD or AWD warning light illuminated on the instrument panel
  • Rear of the vehicle feels loose or unresponsive during cornering
  • Audible clunking from the rear drivetrain under load

What to check

  1. On a quiet road, perform several slow full-lock U-turns in both directions.
  2. Any shudder, judder, or grinding sensation through the floor indicates coupling wear.
  3. Check for a 4WD or AWD warning light on the dash.
  4. Inspect the coupling unit under the rear of the vehicle for oil leaks or heat discolouration.
  5. Verify the coupling fluid has been serviced — it requires its own proprietary fluid separate from the engine and gearbox.

Where to look: Rear axle, between propshaft output and rear differential/coupling unit

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the AWD system ever shown a warning light or been diagnosed with a fault code?”
  • “Has the rear coupling fluid ever been serviced?”

09AWD Rear Coupling Transfer Chain Wear — Vibration and Noise

Listen for a rhythmic humming, whirring, or clunking from the rear of the vehicle at highway speeds that varies with load.petrol2010–2019Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $900–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

All-wheel-drive Juke models use an electronically controlled rear drive unit that contains a chain-driven coupling mechanism to transfer torque to the rear axle. The chain and its sprockets are lubricated by a sealed oil fill that does not have a manufacturer-specified service interval, meaning the fluid is rarely changed and gradually degrades. As the chain stretches and the sprocket teeth wear from chronic under-lubrication, the chain begins to slap against the housing during load transitions, producing vibration and noise that is transmitted through the rear floor. In severe cases the worn chain can jump a tooth or fail entirely, disabling rear-wheel drive and in rare instances damaging the rear halfshafts.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low-frequency humming or vibration from the rear of the vehicle that increases with speed, particularly under light throttle load at 80–110 km/h
  • Clunking or thudding from the rear driveline when transitioning between throttle-on and throttle-off at speed
  • Vibration felt through the rear seat cushion and floor at highway speeds that disappears when coasting in neutral

What to check

  1. Listen for a rhythmic humming, whirring, or clunking from the rear of the vehicle at highway speeds that varies with load.
  2. Check the rear coupling unit for oil leaks at the input seal.
  3. Confirm the four-wheel-drive system engages and disengages smoothly without noise.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the filler plug and assess fluid condition — dark, metallic fluid with swarf indicates advanced chain wear.

Where to look: Rear drive coupling/transfer unit mounted ahead of the rear differential, underneath the rear of the vehicle

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear drive coupling fluid ever been changed?”
  • “Is there any vibration or noise from the rear of the car at highway speeds?”
  • “Has the four-wheel-drive system been tested recently and does it engage without noise?”

10Coolant Thermostat Housing Leak (MR16DDT)

The MR16DDT engine uses a plastic thermostat housing that is prone to cracking and weeping coolant.petrol2010–2020Cooling
OccasionalCooling $300–$950 to fix

Does not apply

The MR16DDT engine uses a plastic thermostat housing that is prone to cracking and weeping coolant. The housing is subject to repeated thermal cycling and the plastic becomes brittle with age. Leaks typically start as a small seep around the housing gasket or at a hairline crack in the housing body, and can worsen rapidly to a significant coolant loss. If undetected, the resulting overheating can cause head gasket failure or warping of the aluminium cylinder head — a repair far more expensive than replacing the housing itself.

An annotated photograph of an automotive engine thermostat identifying the wax capsule and both disc valves.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A double-valve engine thermostat, labelled: the wax capsule is what sticks.

Dougsim · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant level drops slowly between services with no visible external leak under the car
  • Dried coolant residue or white staining around the thermostat housing
  • Sweet smell from the engine bay after a run
  • Temperature gauge rising higher than normal during slow traffic
  • Coolant warning light illuminated on the dash

What to check

  1. With the engine cold, inspect the thermostat housing and surrounding area for dried white or orange coolant residue (scale deposits from dried antifreeze).
  2. Check the coolant reservoir level against the min/max markings and compare to service records.
  3. Smell the coolant reservoir cap — a sweet smell with no visible contamination still warrants a pressure test.
  4. Run the engine to operating temperature and re-inspect the housing area for fresh weeping.

Where to look: Thermostat housing on the front or side of the engine block, adjacent to the lower coolant hose

Parts involved: Thermostat.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the coolant ever needed topping up between services, or has any coolant leak been repaired?”
  • “Has the cooling system ever been pressure-tested or the thermostat housing replaced?”

11MR16DDT Intercooler and Boost Hose Failure

With the engine cold, squeeze all rubber/silicone hose sections in the intake tract for cracks or splits.petrol2010–2020EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical2

01Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

Check for an EPS or power steering warning light on the dashboard.petrol2010–2020Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $800–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

The Juke uses a column-assist electric power steering (EPS) system. The EPS motor mounted on the steering column can fail due to internal brush wear, overheating from sustained low-speed manoeuvring, or failure of the EPS control module. When the motor or module fails, the system cuts out entirely, leaving the driver with very heavy, unassisted steering. The fault is typically flagged by a persistent EPS warning light. The control module can also develop faults from moisture ingress in the connector.

Symptoms to notice

  • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster
  • Sudden very heavy steering requiring significantly more effort to turn
  • Intermittent loss of power steering assistance, particularly after sustained low-speed manoeuvring
  • Steering feels normal on straight roads but assistance drops off during parking
  • Fault codes C1130 or C1140 stored in EPS module

What to check

Check for an EPS or power steering warning light on the dashboard. During the test drive, perform several full-lock manoeuvres — the steering should feel consistently light and assisted throughout. Any sudden increase in steering effort or momentary loss of assistance indicates a fault. Inspect the column motor connector for corrosion or moisture damage. If a workshop inspection is possible: Have a scan tool check for stored EPS fault codes (C1130 series on Nissan diagnostic systems).

Where to look: Steering column, under the dashboard on the driver's side; EPS control module nearby on the column

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS or steering warning light ever come on, and has any steering system fault been diagnosed or repaired?”
  • “Does the steering ever feel heavy or lose assistance during parking manoeuvres?”

02Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Rattle

The Juke uses an electric power steering (EPS) rack with the motor mounted on the rack housing.2010–2019Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $350–$1,400 to fix

Does not apply

The Juke uses an electric power steering (EPS) rack with the motor mounted on the rack housing. The internal rack sliding mechanism relies on a nylon or plastic wear pad to eliminate lash between the rack and its housing. As these pads wear, small amounts of clearance develop and the rack can rattle or knock against the housing when the steering experiences rapid, small-angle inputs — such as when traversing tar-seal joins, rough surfaces, or during parking manoeuvres. In some cases the EPS motor mounting bracket or wiring harness bracket can also loosen and contribute to the noise. The rattle does not always correspond to a loss of steering function but indicates internal rack wear that will worsen.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or rattling noise from the steering rack area when driving over rough surfaces, tar-seal joins, or speed humps at low speed
  • Rattle or clonk felt and heard during quick small-angle steering inputs such as when parking or changing lanes on a rough road

What to check

With the engine running, have an assistant turn the steering wheel rapidly back and forth through small angles (10–20 degrees each way) while you listen at the steering rack for knocking or rattling. Check that the EPS motor and its bracket are secure with no movement under load. Road-test on a rough surface and confirm whether the rattle is transmitted through the steering column or is purely structural noise.

Where to look: Electric power steering rack mounted transversely in the engine bay, below the firewall, connected to the front subframe

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Is there any rattling or knocking noise from the steering on rough roads?”
  • “Has any steering noise been investigated or repaired under warranty or since?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the ball joint dust boot for cracking, splitting, or grease leakage onto the arm.2010–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $250–$550 to fix

Does not apply

The front suspension lower control arm ball joints on the F15 Juke are a standard wear item, but the relatively lightweight dust boot used from the factory is prone to cracking and splitting, allowing road contamination to ingress and accelerate abrasive wear of the ball and socket. Once the joint develops play, steering geometry becomes unstable under braking and cornering load, producing a shimmy or wander that is disproportionate to the degree of wear detectable on a static inspection. In New Zealand and Australian conditions where roads contain gravel and loose material, premature boot failure is commonly observed well before 100,000 km.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension when traversing speed humps, potholes, or rough tar-seal at low speed
  • Steering wander or pull under firm braking, requiring constant correction
  • Uneven front tyre wear, particularly accelerated wear on the inner or outer edge of the tread

What to check

Inspect the ball joint dust boot for cracking, splitting, or grease leakage onto the arm. During the test drive, feel for steering shimmy or wander over rough surfaces. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the front wheels jacked clear of the ground, grasp the tyre at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock and attempt to rock it — any vertical play indicates ball joint wear. Check for clunking on the lift by levering the lower arm.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, at the outboard pivot where the arm connects to the front wheel hub/knuckle

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the front control arm ball joints last inspected or replaced?”
  • “Has the car ever failed a Warrant of Fitness for front suspension play?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front when going over bumps or rough roads?”

02Rear Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

On the test drive, feel for rear-end float or wander on motorway lanes and a tendency for the tail to step out earlier than expected in fast corners.2010–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $180–$420 to fix

Does not apply

The rear suspension of the F15 Juke uses a torsion-beam axle with the trailing arms located by pressed-in rubber bushes at the forward mounting point on the body. These bushes are subject to both longitudinal (braking) and lateral (cornering) loads and are made from a relatively soft rubber compound that degrades through normal exposure to oil, ozone, and heat cycling. When the forward trailing arm bush collapses or splits, the rear axle is no longer correctly located, causing the rear wheel to move rearward under braking and outward in cornering — effectively introducing unwanted rear toe changes that make the car feel nervous and unpredictable at speed.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vague, floaty, or nervous rear-end handling at motorway speeds, requiring frequent steering correction to hold a lane
  • Inner-edge scrubbing or accelerated wear on both rear tyres caused by toe angle change under load
  • Rear-end instability or light tail-out sensation when braking firmly or changing lanes at speed

What to check

On the test drive, feel for rear-end float or wander on motorway lanes and a tendency for the tail to step out earlier than expected in fast corners. Check for accelerated or angled wear on the rear tyre inner edge. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the rear trailing arm front bush with the vehicle on a hoist — look for rubber cracking, tearing, or the inner metal sleeve pulling away from the outer shell.

Where to look: Forward mounting point of each rear trailing arm where it bolts to the underbody chassis rail, accessible from beneath the vehicle

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear trailing arm bushes been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Does the car feel stable and planted at motorway speeds, or does it wander?”
  • “Are the rear tyres wearing evenly across the full tread width?”

03Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check the dust boots for cracking or displacement.2010–2019Brakes
CommonBrakes $90–$320 to fix

Does not apply

The front and rear brake calipers on the F15 Juke use sliding guide pins to allow the caliper body to move laterally as the brake pads wear, ensuring equal pressure is applied from both the fixed and floating pad. The guide pins are steel sliding in aluminium or steel bores and are protected only by rubber dust boots. In New Zealand and Australian conditions, road salt, grit, and moisture contaminate the pins when the boots split or deteriorate, causing corrosion and eventual seizure of the pin in its bore. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from retracting fully after braking, causing the brake pads to drag continuously against the rotor, generating sustained heat that can warp the rotor, degrade the brake fluid, and in extreme cases ignite wheel dust or damage the tyre bead.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking, caused by asymmetric braking force from a seized caliper on one corner
  • Rapid and uneven brake pad wear — the inner or outer pad on one corner worn significantly faster than its counterpart
  • Persistent brake drag and elevated wheel temperature on one or more corners after driving, with a burning smell from the affected wheel

What to check

Check the dust boots for cracking or displacement. After a short drive, carefully feel each wheel rim (without touching the rotor) for abnormal heat, indicating a dragging caliper. Inspect brake pad thickness on both sides of each caliper — uneven thickness between the inner and outer pad on the same corner confirms a seized guide pin. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove each caliper and slide the guide pins by hand — they should move smoothly and freely for their full travel with light finger pressure.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers at each corner — guide pins are on the outboard and inboard faces of each caliper, accessed by removing the caliper bolt covers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake calipers last serviced, including guide pin lubrication and boot inspection?”
  • “Does the car pull to one side under braking?”
  • “Have the brake rotors been replaced recently, and if so, why?”

04Premature Rear Wheel Bearing Failure

Repeat at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions.petrol2010–2020Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $350–$950 to fix

Does not apply

The Juke's rear wheel bearing assemblies wear prematurely relative to the vehicle's size and typical usage profile. The relatively heavy kerb weight of the Juke (particularly the AWD turbo variants at over 1,400 kg) combined with a modest rear bearing specification contributes to early wear. Failures are commonly reported between 80,000 and 140,000 km. On the AWD model, the rear wheel bearings are pressed-in units integrated with the hub, requiring a press or full hub assembly replacement. The fault is often dismissed as a road noise issue until bearing play becomes measurable.

Symptoms to notice

  • Cyclic droning or humming noise from the rear of the car at motorway speeds
  • Noise changes pitch or intensity when gently weaving or changing lanes
  • Detectable wheel play when rocking the wheel by hand at 9 and 3 o'clock positions
  • Vibration felt through the rear seat or floor at speed
  • ABS warning light in advanced cases if bearing sensor is integral to the hub

What to check

Repeat at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. During the test drive at 80-100 km/h, listen for a cyclic droning or humming from the rear that changes in pitch when gently weaving left and right (load transfer reveals which bearing is faulty). A worn right bearing typically gets louder when turning left. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist and the handbrake off, grasp each rear wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and rock it laterally — any detectable play indicates bearing wear.

Where to look: Rear hub assembly, left and right rear wheels

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Has any wheel bearing or hub assembly been replaced, and at what mileage?”
  • “Does the car make any droning or humming noise from the rear at highway speeds?”
Fluid leaks1

01AWD Rear Coupling (ATTESA) Seal and Fluid Leak

Inspect rear coupling unit under the vehicle at the rear axle area for oil leaks and residue.petrol2010–2019Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Nissan Juke faults in detail

Narrowed to the Nissan Juke · 2021. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

7-speed DCT low-speed hesitation and lurching (1.0 DIG-T auto)Major · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan Juke’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Nissan models

Nissan Patrol48 documented faultsNissan Navara45 documented faultsNissan X-Trail45 documented faultsNissan Murano21 documented faultsNissan Pulsar21 documented faultsNissan Teana20 documented faults

Nissan Juke buyer questions

Is the Nissan Juke reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 21 documented faults for the Nissan Juke, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and fluid leaks. A Nissan Juke with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan Juke?

We've catalogued 21 known faults for the Nissan Juke, covering engine, transmission, and fluid leaks. All 21 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan Juke?

Most single repairs on the Nissan Juke fall between $350–$2,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 21 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan Juke?

Yes. A Nissan Juke inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.