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Subaru2003–2023 Critical issues documented

Subaru Outback BM: common faults & what to check

The BM is the Subaru Outback built 2009–2015. It was sold here with the 2.0 boxer diesel, 2.5L petrol (EJ25), and 3.6 boxer-6. Of the 34 faults documented for the Outback, 16 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
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  • NZ owned and operated

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34

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$800–$2,800

Typical repair

27

Service milestones

You're looking at the BM

3 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2011 Subaru Outback is the BM generation (2009 to 2015).

Start your free check on this Subaru Outback

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Subaru Outback BMEngine not picked yet

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Can't confirm for this car

Subaru Outback · 2011

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Subaru Outback before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    With the front wheels elevated, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and apply alternating vertical load to check for vertical play in the ball joint.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear and Boot Failure

    The front lower control arm on BP and BR Outbacks incorporates a pressed-in ball joint that is not independently serviceable — the entire lower arm must be replaced once the joint is worn. The rubber dust boot protecting the ball joint grease is prone to cracking from UV exposure and road stone impact, particularly in Australasian conditions. Once the boot tears, water and grit contaminate the bearing surface and rapidly abrade the ball stud taper, increasing lateral play beyond safe limits. Advanced wear causes the ball joint to separate under load, which constitutes an immediate loss of steering and wheel geometry control.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over road bumps, speed humps, or during cornering
    • Vague or imprecise steering feel with the vehicle wandering slightly on straight roads
    • Uneven tyre wear across the front axle, particularly on the inner or outer edges
    • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking as the compromised joint allows dynamic geometry change

    Typically $380–$900 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Any movement in the bush beyond a few millimetres indicates failure.

    See why

    BR Rear Lateral Link Rubber Bush Deterioration

    The BR-generation Outback (2009-2014) uses a multi-link rear suspension with lateral links controlled by rubber-bonded bushes pressed into aluminium housings. The bush compound used in this generation degrades significantly in New Zealand and Australian conditions — a combination of UV exposure, ozone, and road contamination causes the rubber to crack, separate from the inner sleeve, or collapse. Failed bushes allow the rear wheel to adopt incorrect toe angles under cornering loads, introducing oversteer instability and accelerating tyre wear. The condition is often not detected during standard WOF visual inspections because the bush can appear intact externally while the internal bond has failed.

    What you would notice

    • Vague or nervous rear-end handling under cornering, described as the rear 'stepping out' unexpectedly on smooth road surfaces
    • Uneven rear tyre wear — feathering or one-sided wear on the inner or outer shoulder of the rear tyres within 10,000 km of a fresh alignment
    • Knocking or clunking from the rear suspension over sharp bumps or during parking-speed manoeuvres
    • Rear wheel alignment cannot be held within specification even after adjustment

    Typically $700–$1,600 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    During test drive at 80-100 km/h, note any droning hum and whether it changes when gently weaving left and right.

    See why

    Rear Wheel Bearing Premature Wear

    Rear wheel bearing failure is one of the most consistently reported mechanical faults across all Outback generations from BP through BS. The AWD drivetrain places constant torque load on all four bearings, and the rear units are particularly susceptible to wear, typically presenting between 90,000 and 160,000 km. The sealed hub-bearing assemblies cannot be repacked and require full replacement. Bearings on one side commonly precede the other side by only a short period, so both sides are often replaced together to avoid repeat labour costs.

    What you would notice

    • Droning or humming noise that increases with vehicle speed
    • Noise changes pitch or disappears when changing lanes or cornering
    • Vibration felt through the floor or seat at highway speeds
    • Roughness or play felt when rocking the wheel by hand with the car on stands

    Typically $350–$750 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Remove guide pins and inspect for corrosion pitting, scoring, or binding in their bores.

    See why

    Brake Caliper Guide Pin Corrosion and Seizure

    The front and rear sliding-type brake calipers on BP and BR Outbacks use two steel guide pins per caliper that allow the caliper body to float laterally as the brake pads wear, ensuring even pad contact across the rotor face. The guide pins are protected by rubber boots that deteriorate with age, allowing moisture and road contamination to reach the pin and its aluminium bore. Galvanic corrosion between the steel pin and aluminium caliper bracket causes the pin to seize, preventing the caliper from sliding freely. A seized guide pin means one brake pad remains in constant light contact with the rotor while the other pad does not apply at all, creating severely uneven pad wear, brake pull, and a dragging brake that generates significant heat, warps rotors, and can cause brake fade under sustained use.

    What you would notice

    • Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, worsening as brakes heat up
    • Significantly uneven brake pad wear with one pad worn to the backing plate while the opposing pad on the same caliper has substantial material remaining
    • Rotor surface scoring, bluing from heat, or thickness variation caused by a pad dragging continuously against one face
    • Brake drag sensation when rolling with no pedal applied, often accompanied by a burning smell from the affected wheel after normal driving

    Typically $150–$550 to put right.

Subaru Outback service schedule

The 3 engines a 2011 Subaru Outback was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Fourth Generation · 2009–2014 · 3.6L (EZ36) - 3.6R Premium

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Confirm the cooling system parts are healthy and that the transmission fluid has been serviced.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension parts including the bushings and shocks can start to wear, so look for an even ride height.

  3. 200,000 km

    Important point to confirm the spark plugs were replaced on schedule; on the 3.6L flat-six they are harder to reach.

Fourth Generation · 2009–2014 · 2.5L (EJ25) - 2.5i/Sport

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Spark plugs are due for replacement and the suspension bushes deserve their first inspection.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the wheel bearings for play or humming, and get the transmission fluid done if it has not been already.

  3. 200,000 km

    A milestone for watching the cooling system, particularly the radiator and hoses, for brittleness or leaks.

Fourth Generation · 2009–2014 · 2.0L (EE20) - 2.0D Turbo Diesel

Diesel

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The original suspension bushings can start perishing here, and the ride will feel different as a result.

  2. 150,000 km

    The Diesel Particulate Filter often needs a professional diagnostic check or clean around this distance.

  3. 200,000 km

    At this high mileage, checking the turbocharger bearings and oil feed lines becomes a sensible part of routine maintenance.

See all 16 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 4 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical6

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear and Boot Failure

With the front wheels elevated, grasp the tyre at 6 and 12 o'clock and apply alternating vertical load to check for vertical play in the ball joint.2003–2014SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Rattle

2009–2014Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $1,100–$2,800 to fix

The BR Outback uses a column-assist electric power steering system in which the rack and pinion assembly's internal preload adjustment — the spring-loaded piston that maintains contact pressure between the pinion gear and rack — can wear and loosen over time. As the preload reduces, the rack develops internal free-play that manifests as a mechanical knock transmitted directly through the steering column to the steering wheel when the front wheels encounter surface irregularities. In some cases the EPS motor's mounting bracket or torque sensor connector can also loosen and contribute to the noise. The fault is mechanical rather than electronic, though early-symptom diagnosis is sometimes confused with EPS motor faults when the torque sensor misreads the play as a steering input.

Symptoms to notice

  • Distinct metallic knocking or clunking felt through the steering wheel when traversing potholes, speed humps, or rough road surfaces
  • Steering wheel free-play detectable as a light dead-zone when rocking the wheel at rest with the engine running
  • Noise worsens progressively over time and may be accompanied by occasional EPS warning light if the torque sensor interprets play as a fault input
  • Steering feel described as vague or slightly disconnected compared to a new vehicle of the same type

What to check

With the engine running at idle and the vehicle stationary, rock the steering wheel left and right in small increments and listen and feel for a knock or clunk from the steering rack. Drive over a rough surface and note whether a distinct metallic knock occurs through the steering wheel. Check the steering rack mounting bolts for correct torque and inspect the rubber rack boots for signs of fluid weeping. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, have an assistant move the steering wheel while you palpate the rack housing for movement or audible play.

Where to look: Steering rack and pinion assembly mounted transversely in the engine bay behind the subframe; knock is transmitted through the steering column and felt at the steering wheel rim

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has a knocking noise from the steering been noted, particularly over rough road surfaces?”
  • “Has the EPS warning light ever illuminated, and if so, what was the fault code found?”
  • “Has the steering rack been inspected or replaced?”

03BR Rear Lateral Link Rubber Bush Deterioration

Any movement in the bush beyond a few millimetres indicates failure.2009–2014SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Rear Wheel Bearing Premature Wear

During test drive at 80-100 km/h, note any droning hum and whether it changes when gently weaving left and right.petrol2003–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Rear wheel bearing failure is one of the most consistently reported mechanical faults across all Outback generations from BP through BS. The AWD drivetrain places constant torque load on all four bearings, and the rear units are particularly susceptible to wear, typically presenting between 90,000 and 160,000 km. The sealed hub-bearing assemblies cannot be repacked and require full replacement. Bearings on one side commonly precede the other side by only a short period, so both sides are often replaced together to avoid repeat labour costs.

Symptoms to notice

  • Droning or humming noise that increases with vehicle speed
  • Noise changes pitch or disappears when changing lanes or cornering
  • Vibration felt through the floor or seat at highway speeds
  • Roughness or play felt when rocking the wheel by hand with the car on stands

What to check

During test drive at 80-100 km/h, note any droning hum and whether it changes when gently weaving left and right. With the vehicle safely raised, grasp each rear wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and rock side to side to feel for play; repeat at 12 and 6 o'clock. Spin each wheel by hand and listen for roughness.

Where to look: Rear wheel hubs, both left and right sides

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear wheel bearings been replaced and when?”
  • “Is there any droning noise at highway speeds?”

05Brake Caliper Guide Pin Corrosion and Seizure

Remove guide pins and inspect for corrosion pitting, scoring, or binding in their bores.2003–2014Brakes
CommonBrakes $150–$550 to fix

The front and rear sliding-type brake calipers on BP and BR Outbacks use two steel guide pins per caliper that allow the caliper body to float laterally as the brake pads wear, ensuring even pad contact across the rotor face. The guide pins are protected by rubber boots that deteriorate with age, allowing moisture and road contamination to reach the pin and its aluminium bore. Galvanic corrosion between the steel pin and aluminium caliper bracket causes the pin to seize, preventing the caliper from sliding freely. A seized guide pin means one brake pad remains in constant light contact with the rotor while the other pad does not apply at all, creating severely uneven pad wear, brake pull, and a dragging brake that generates significant heat, warps rotors, and can cause brake fade under sustained use.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under moderate or heavy braking, worsening as brakes heat up
  • Significantly uneven brake pad wear with one pad worn to the backing plate while the opposing pad on the same caliper has substantial material remaining
  • Rotor surface scoring, bluing from heat, or thickness variation caused by a pad dragging continuously against one face
  • Brake drag sensation when rolling with no pedal applied, often accompanied by a burning smell from the affected wheel after normal driving

What to check

  1. Remove guide pins and inspect for corrosion pitting, scoring, or binding in their bores.
  2. Inspect rubber boots for tears or hardening.
  3. Compare inner and outer brake pad thickness on each caliper — a difference of more than 3 mm indicates that caliper is not sliding.
  4. Check rotor surfaces for scoring grooves or heat-bluing consistent with dragging.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, attempt to slide each caliper laterally by hand after loosening it from the bracket — a free caliper should move with light hand pressure.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers on all four wheels; guide pin bores located in the caliper mounting bracket, with one upper and one lower pin per caliper assembly

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads, Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake pads and rotors last replaced, and were the caliper guide pins serviced at the same time?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever pulled to one side under braking?”
  • “Are all four brake rotors in similar condition, or is there visible scoring or discolouration on one corner?”

06Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Wear — Creaking and Steering Noise

2003–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$850 to fix

All Outback generations use a strut-type front suspension with a bearing-and-thrust-plate upper mount assembly that allows the strut to rotate with steering input. The bearing race and its polymer cage deteriorate from road contamination ingress and the cyclic loading of the flat-four engine's vibration signature. Failed or dry bearings produce noise on steering lock transitions and over bump, and can cause the steering to feel notchy or to self-centre inconsistently. The condition is frequently mis-diagnosed as power steering rack wear or subframe movement. On EJ25 models, heat soak from the exhaust manifold accelerates bearing grease breakdown.

Symptoms to notice

  • Creaking, groaning, or single-click noise from the front suspension when turning the steering wheel at low speed or parking — noise changes with steering angle
  • Steering wheel has a notchy or stepped feel when returning to centre from full lock
  • Occasional clunk from the front end when transitioning from full left to full right lock during a slow U-turn
  • Noise increases during cold weather and may temporarily disappear once the bearing warms

What to check

With the vehicle stationary, have an assistant turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock while you listen and feel at each strut tower for creaking or clicking. Inspect the dust seal around the top mount for cracking or collapse. Bearings that are dry rather than seized can be temporarily silenced by spraying release oil, confirming the diagnosis. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, rotate the steering while observing the upper mount for any angular play in the bearing.

Where to look: Front strut upper mount bearing, top of each front suspension strut tower in the engine bay

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the steering make any creaking or clicking noise when parking or doing U-turns?”
  • “Have the front strut top mounts ever been replaced?”
  • “Is there any notchiness felt through the steering wheel when returning to centre?”
Depends on the exact engine — 10 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling9

01EJ25 Head Gasket External Coolant Seepage

Look for brown staining or crystalline mineral deposits.petrol2003–2012EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02EJ25 Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing Seizure

The EJ25 engine uses a conventional rubber timing belt with a hydraulic tensioner and an idler pulley bearing.petrol2003–2012Engine
OccasionalEngine $900–$1,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The EJ25 engine uses a conventional rubber timing belt with a hydraulic tensioner and an idler pulley bearing. The idler pulley bearing — a sealed unit pressed into a fixed bracket — is prone to early fatigue from the high belt tension required by the wide-bore, short-stroke EJ engine layout. Bearing seizure causes the timing belt to skip teeth under the sudden increase in drag, leading to catastrophic valve-to-piston contact. The failure can occur without warning between scheduled belt change intervals (Subaru specifies 100,000 km but New Zealand workshops frequently recommend 80,000 km given local conditions). Water pump failure — which shares the same belt drive — is a concurrent risk.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched squealing or chirping from the front of the engine that varies with engine speed — the noise may appear and disappear intermittently before becoming constant
  • Timing belt cover showing fresh rubber dust or black powder residue indicating belt abrasion against a dragging pulley
  • Sudden catastrophic engine failure — bent valves and scored pistons — with no prior overheating (distinguishes from head gasket failure)
  • Rough idle or intermittent misfire on multiple cylinders after a timing jump event (partial tooth skip before full seizure)

What to check

At any timing belt service, the idler pulley bearing must be spun by hand with the belt removed — any roughness, grittiness, or axial play indicates imminent failure. Inspect the rear face of the timing belt for glazing or rubber dust deposits. Always replace the idler pulley bearing, tensioner, and water pump as a kit at every timing belt change — replacing the belt alone is not adequate. Request documented service records showing component kit replacement, not just belt replacement.

Where to look: Timing belt idler pulley bearing, front of engine behind the timing belt cover on the driver's side

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced and what parts were included — just the belt, or the full kit including idler and tensioner bearings and water pump?”
  • “Can you provide a receipt or invoice showing exactly which components were replaced?”
  • “Has any squealing or chirping ever come from the front of the engine?”

03FB25 CVT Chain Belt Wear — Shudder and Ratio Hunting

Check the CVT fluid condition and service history — fluid should be pink and translucent, not brown or with a burnt smell.petrol2009–2017TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Lineartronic CVT TR690 Input Bearing Whine

petrol2010–2014TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05EZ30 / EZ36 H6 Valve Stem Seal Oil Consumption

Ask for oil top-up records or request the seller to show you how much oil has been added between services.petrol2003–2019EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06EJ25 AVCS Oil Control Solenoid Valve Fault

Scan the ECU for fault codes P0011 (intake cam timing over-advanced, bank 1) and P0021 (bank 2).petrol2003–2012EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Lineartronic TR580 CVT Premature Failure

Test drive at low speed from rest and note any shudder or hesitation.petrol2010–2014TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08Lineartronic CVT TR580 Belt Judder at Low Speed

Test drive the vehicle from cold, accelerating gently from rest on a flat road at light throttle to reproduce the shudder at 20–40 km/h.petrol2009–2014TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09BR Transfer Case Clutch Pack Wear — AWD Binding and Vibration

Check all four tyre diameters are within 5 mm of each other — a tyre diameter mismatch forces the transfer case clutch to work continuously.2009–2014Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $2,200–$5,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The BR Outback uses an electronically controlled multi-plate clutch transfer case (VTD-AWD or DCCD variant depending on specification) to distribute torque between the front and rear axles. The clutch pack plates and their friction material develop glazing and uneven wear in vehicles where the AWD system has been stressed by mismatched tyre circumferences — a common scenario when only two tyres are replaced. Worn clutch packs cause AWD binding during low-speed cornering (noticeable as a shudder when parking), viscous coupling drag that generates heat and accelerated fluid degradation, and in severe cases the transfer case oil discolours and metallic particles circulate through the unit causing accelerating damage.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration felt through the drivetrain and floorpan during low-speed tight cornering — for example, full-lock parking manoeuvres on sealed surfaces
  • Binding or tight steering sensation when making sharp turns at walking pace, as the clutch pack resists the speed differential between front and rear axles
  • Transfer case oil appearing dark brown, burnt-smelling, or containing silver metallic particles when drained
  • AWD-related fault codes stored in the transmission control module (typically P0700 or AWD system codes), sometimes with the AWD warning light illuminated

What to check

Check all four tyre diameters are within 5 mm of each other — a tyre diameter mismatch forces the transfer case clutch to work continuously. Drain and inspect the transfer case oil for colour, smell, and metallic content. On a low-speed tight figure-8 manoeuvre on smooth concrete, note any binding or shudder. If a workshop inspection is possible: A scan tool check of the AWD torque split and clutch engagement duty cycle can indicate whether the clutch is commanding abnormally high engagement.

Where to look: Transfer case unit, underbody between transmission and front differential

Parts involved: Transfer case, Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Are all four tyres the same brand, model, and approximate wear level — and have all four ever been replaced at the same time?”
  • “Does the car shudder or bind when making tight turns at low speed in a car park?”
  • “When was the transfer case oil last changed and what did it look like?”
Fluid leaks1

01EJ25 SOHC Engine Oil Seepage at Camshaft and Crankshaft Seals

Remove undertray and inspect front crank seal area and cam seal covers for fresh oil film.petrol2003–2019Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Subaru Outback engines and years18 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling9

01Lineartronic CVT Push-Belt and Sheave Wear at High Mileage

Check the CVT fluid service record against Subaru's 40,000 km replacement interval.petrol2014–2020Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $5,500–$11,000 to fix

Does not apply

Beyond approximately 150,000–200,000 km, the steel push-belt elements and the variator sheave faces of the Lineartronic CVT can develop surface wear pitting and microspalling from metal fatigue, particularly on vehicles that have not had regular CVTF-II fluid replacements. Worn sheaves lose their cone geometry accuracy, causing the belt to run eccentrically and generating characteristic metallic whine under load. Catastrophic belt failure can leave the vehicle with no drive at all and destroys the complete transmission internals, requiring full replacement rather than rebuild due to metal contamination.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched metallic whine from the transmission tunnel that rises with vehicle speed, not engine speed
  • Slip sensation under hard acceleration as if the engine over-revs without corresponding vehicle acceleration
  • Transmission overheating warning (high CVT fluid temperature light) during sustained towing or hill climbing
  • Metallic particles visible on a magnetic drain plug if fluid is checked
  • Complete loss of drive in both forward and reverse in severe failure cases

What to check

Check the CVT fluid service record against Subaru's 40,000 km replacement interval. On the test drive, listen with the windows down for a high-pitched whine or metallic singing from the transmission tunnel that increases in pitch with road speed rather than engine RPM. Verify the transmission warning light does not illuminate. For any vehicle over 150,000 km, budget for an independent transmission inspection and fluid analysis before purchase — metallic particles in the CVTF are an early indicator of internal wear.

Where to look: Lineartronic CVT internal variator assembly, transaxle tunnel

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the CVT fluid been changed on the Subaru-recommended schedule, and do you have service receipts?”
  • “Has any transmission noise, slip, or warning light been noticed or investigated by a workshop?”
  • “What is the current odometer reading and has the vehicle ever been used for towing?”

02Lineartronic TR690 CVT Valve Body and Solenoid Failure

During test drive maintain steady light throttle at 80-100 km/h and note any shudder.petrol2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Lineartronic CVT (TR690/TR580) Low-Speed Judder

During the test drive, accelerate gently from a rolling 20 km/h in a carpark and again from 40 km/h on a quiet road.petrol2014–2020TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Lineartronic CVT Chain Elongation at High Mileage

Test drive at motorway speed with sustained moderate-to-firm acceleration to feel for slip or shudder.petrol2019–2023Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $3,500–$7,500 to fix

Does not apply

The BN-generation Outback 2.5i uses a chain-type Lineartronic CVT rather than the push-belt unit of the BS generation. After approximately 100,000 km the CVT chain can stretch or elongate, causing the transmission to slip under load, produce a shudder at specific speed and torque combinations, or emit clunking at cruise. Chain wear is accelerated by infrequent fluid changes, sustained towing, or repeated hard acceleration. Unlike the belt-type CVT where a fluid change often resolves judder, chain elongation typically requires a full transmission rebuild or replacement. Subaru recommends chain-type CVT fluid changes every 40,000 km but many owners miss this service interval.

Symptoms to notice

  • Transmission slip or flare under moderate to firm acceleration
  • Shudder or vibration during motorway acceleration above 80 km/h
  • Clunking or rattling sensation at specific speed and throttle combinations
  • Delayed engagement or jerkiness moving from Park to Drive
  • CVT warning light or transmission fault codes stored in the ECU

What to check

  1. Test drive at motorway speed with sustained moderate-to-firm acceleration to feel for slip or shudder.
  2. Request CVT fluid inspection for metal particles or discolouration indicating wear.
  3. Scan for transmission fault codes.
  4. Confirm CVT service history and verify fluid specification matches Subaru requirements for the chain-type unit.

Where to look: CVT transmission internal chain and pulley assembly inside the main gearbox casing

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the CVT fluid been changed at the 40,000 km intervals recommended by Subaru?”
  • “Has there been any shudder, slip, or transmission warning light at any stage?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever been used to tow a trailer or caravan?”

055EAT Torque Converter Shudder and Clutch Pack Wear

Road test at 60-80 km/h with very light throttle maintaining speed — note any vibration.petrol2004–2009TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06EZ36D 3.6L Oil Consumption and Cylinder Wall Glazing

Check the engine oil level cold before starting — if the seller has prepared the car, ask them not to top it up beforehand.petrol2014–2019Engine
OccasionalEngine $300–$4,500 to fix

Does not apply

The EZ36D naturally aspirated 3.6L flat-six used in higher-specification BS Outbacks is documented to consume engine oil at rates up to 1 litre per 3,000 km on some examples, attributed to piston ring seating wear and bore glazing under light-throttle highway cruise conditions that are characteristic of the Outback's typical usage pattern. Subaru issued piston ring and oil-control ring updates for some affected build ranges, but high-mileage examples or those subjected to extended oil change intervals frequently exhibit ongoing consumption. Sustained high consumption without monitoring causes bearing wear and potential catalytic converter contamination.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil level drops by 500 ml or more between scheduled services
  • Thin blue-grey smoke from the exhaust on cold start or during engine braking from motorway speeds
  • Oily residue inside the exhaust tailpipe outlet
  • Oil low warning illuminating before the next service interval is due
  • Catalyst efficiency codes (P0420 / P0430) in late-stage consumption indicating converter contamination

What to check

  1. Check the engine oil level cold before starting — if the seller has prepared the car, ask them not to top it up beforehand.
  2. Ask for recent service records showing oil level checks between intervals.
  3. Inspect the tailpipe interior for blue-grey oily residue.
  4. If the vehicle can be driven hard briefly, a puff of blue-grey smoke on sharp deceleration from 100 km/h indicates oil burning past valve guides or ring seals.
  5. Verify the oil is the correct Subaru-specified 0W-20 viscosity.

Where to look: Engine block cylinder bores and piston ring land, both banks

Parts involved: Catalytic converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Have you needed to add oil between services, and approximately how much?”
  • “Has the vehicle been assessed for oil consumption under any Subaru TSB or goodwill programme?”
  • “Has the correct Subaru-specified 0W-20 oil been used consistently throughout ownership?”

07EZ36 Boxer Six Timing Chain Tensioner Wear

Listen on cold start for chain rattle before revving the engine.petrol2014–2019Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$3,800 to fix

Does not apply

The EZ36 3.6-litre flat-six used in the Outback 3.6R employs hydraulic timing chain tensioners that wear progressively at high mileage. Above approximately 150,000 km the tensioners lose their ability to maintain chain tension, causing audible rattle on cold start before oil pressure builds and, in severe cases, chain skip that alters camshaft timing. Jumped timing on a boxer engine can result in bent valves and extensive internal damage. The repair requires timing chain, tensioner, and guide replacement, which is labour-intensive on the horizontally-opposed layout. Regular oil changes with the correct specification are essential to tensioner longevity.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattling from engine on cold start that subsides as oil pressure builds
  • Rough running or misfire if timing chain skips
  • Camshaft position correlation fault codes P0016 P0017 P0018 P0019
  • Increased oil consumption as chain guides wear
  • Check Engine light with timing-related diagnostic codes

What to check

  1. Listen on cold start for chain rattle before revving the engine.
  2. Scan specifically for camshaft and crankshaft correlation codes.
  3. Verify oil change history as infrequent changes accelerate tensioner failure.
  4. Mileage above 150,000 km warrants a pre-purchase inspection by a Subaru specialist.

Where to look: Timing chain and tensioner assembly at front of engine between cylinder banks, under the timing cover

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain, tensioner, or guides ever been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any rattling or ticking noise on cold start?”
  • “What has been the oil change interval and oil specification used throughout ownership?”

08FB25 DI Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

Ask to see service records showing any prior walnut blast or decarbonisation treatment.petrol2014–2023EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09Rear Differential Pinion and Axle Flange Seal Leak

Check the underfloor tunnel running forward of the diff for oil throw-back indicating active leakage.petrol2014–2020EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical4

01StarLink 11.6-inch infotainment freezes, reboots or develops ghost-touch

With the engine running, exercise the touchscreen across audio, climate, phone/CarPlay and the reversing camera.petrol2021 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Parasitic battery drain leaving the car unable to start

Ask how old the current battery is and how often it has been replaced.petrol2021 onwardElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03EyeSight Camera Failure from Windshield PVB Interlayer Delamination

2014–2019Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $1,600–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

BS-generation Outbacks (2014-2019) equipped with EyeSight driver assistance use two forward-facing stereo cameras bonded to a dedicated mounting bracket adhered to the inside of the windshield. The polyvinyl butyral (PVB) interlayer of the laminated windshield is sensitive to contamination and temperature cycling; when the interlayer clouds or delaminates in the camera field of view, the stereo vision algorithm fails to resolve depth correctly. The system disables itself and, in some cases, triggers phantom emergency braking events. Windshield replacement must use Subaru-approved glass with the correct optical clarity specification and must be followed by EyeSight camera recalibration on a dedicated target board — a step frequently omitted by non-specialist windshield repairers.

Symptoms to notice

  • EyeSight warning light illuminated with system disabled, often appearing first after temperature extremes (frost or direct summer sun)
  • Pre-collision braking system activating without an obstacle present, particularly in dappled light or at dawn/dusk
  • Cloudy, milky, or iridescent haze visible in the windshield within the camera field of view (the upper central band)
  • Adaptive cruise control disengaging unexpectedly during motorway driving

What to check

Inspect the windshield from inside the cabin with the EyeSight cameras visible — look for any hazing, delamination blistering, or discolouration in the upper 150 mm of the glass between the A-pillars. If the windshield has been replaced, confirm with the owner that Subaru-approved glass was used and that the EyeSight recalibration was performed and documented. If a workshop inspection is possible: Verify the EyeSight system with a scan tool for stored camera fault codes (C1A00, C1A01 range).

Where to look: Windshield upper centre — EyeSight stereo camera bracket and PVB interlayer directly ahead of the rearview mirror

Ask the seller

  • “Has the windshield ever been replaced, and if so was EyeSight recalibration carried out and documented?”
  • “Has the EyeSight system ever triggered unexpectedly or shown a warning light?”
  • “Is there any hazing or discolouration visible in the upper centre of the windshield?”

04EyeSight Stereo Camera Windscreen Incompatibility and Recalibration

Start the vehicle and check that the EyeSight indicator on the instrument cluster illuminates green and does not show an orange or red warning icon.petrol2014–2020ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Windscreen cracks spontaneously or from minor stone chips

petrol2021 onwardBody & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Electric Parking Brake Actuator Motor Failure

Cycle the electric parking brake switch several times and listen for correct motor operation at each rear corner.petrol2019–2023Brakes
OccasionalBrakes $900–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The BN-generation Outback replaced the conventional cable-operated parking brake with an electrically driven actuator motor at each rear caliper. The actuator motors are susceptible to failure due to moisture ingress into the motor housing and general electromechanical wear. A failed actuator triggers the electric parking brake warning light and may leave the parking brake stuck in the applied position, rendering the vehicle immobile, or unable to engage at all, creating a safety risk on slopes. Some cases were resolved under Subaru warranty but out-of-warranty failures require actuator replacement. Corrosion in the wiring connector is a secondary cause in humid NZ and coastal AU environments.

Symptoms to notice

  • Electric parking brake warning light illuminated on dashboard
  • Parking brake fails to release normally after driving away
  • Grinding or clicking sound from rear when operating parking brake switch
  • Vehicle drags or pulls on acceleration if brake is stuck applied
  • Brake error message appearing on the multi-information display

What to check

Cycle the electric parking brake switch several times and listen for correct motor operation at each rear corner. Verify the warning light extinguishes completely after the brake releases. Inspect actuator wiring connectors at the rear calipers for corrosion or moisture damage. If a workshop inspection is possible: Have a Subaru-compatible scan tool read EPB-specific fault codes.

Where to look: Electric parking brake actuator motor mounted on each rear brake caliper, both left and right

Parts involved: Body corrosion, Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric parking brake warning light ever illuminated?”
  • “Has the EPB actuator been replaced or repaired under warranty or at the owner's cost?”
  • “Does the parking brake engage and release quietly and smoothly every time?”

03Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Premature Wear

Inspect the rubber boot for tearing or grease loss.petrol2014–2023Suspension
CommonSuspension $450–$1,100 to fix

Does not apply

The front lower control arm ball joints on BS and BN Outback models wear prematurely in New Zealand and Australian conditions, particularly on vehicles used on unsealed or corrugated roads. The sealed-for-life joints cannot be individually replaced, so the entire lower arm assembly must be renewed when wear is detected. Rough and corrugated roads common in regional NZ and rural AU accelerate wear beyond factory design expectations. Worn ball joints create clunking over bumps and vague steering. In an advanced state the joint can separate, causing immediate loss of wheel location and potential rollover — making this a safety-critical inspection item on any pre-purchase check.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from front suspension over bumps and rough roads
  • Vague or imprecise steering feedback particularly at low speed
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear across the front axle
  • Knocking sound when turning at low speed in carparks
  • Vibration felt through steering wheel on corrugated or unsealed surfaces

What to check

  1. Inspect the rubber boot for tearing or grease loss.
  2. Ask a mechanic to assess both sides.
  3. Confirm whether any replacement has been performed and ask the owner whether rural or gravel road driving has occurred.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, use a pry bar under the lower arm to check for vertical and horizontal play at the ball joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm ball joint, left and right sides of front subframe

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower control arm assemblies or ball joints been replaced?”
  • “Is there any clunking or knocking from the front when going over bumps?”
  • “Has the vehicle been used regularly on unsealed, gravel, or corrugated roads?”
Fluid leaks2

01Rear Differential Output Shaft Oil Seal Leak

Inspect underside around rear differential output flanges and propshaft joint for oil seepage.petrol2003–2009Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $300–$700 to fix

Does not apply

The rear differential output shaft seals on BP Outbacks are prone to weeping and leaking gear oil. Seal failure allows differential fluid to escape, potentially contaminating rear brake components and, if left unchecked, running the differential dry causing internal wear. Commonly found on manual transmission variants but also reported on automatics. A near-universal finding on high-kilometre BP Outbacks during NZ workshop pre-purchase inspections.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil seepage or staining visible around rear differential output flanges
  • Gear oil smell from the underside of the vehicle
  • Oil contamination on rear brake components or discs
  • Low rear differential fluid level

What to check

Inspect underside around rear differential output flanges and propshaft joint for oil seepage; check for oily residue on rear suspension components; look for brake dust contamination mixed with oil on rear rotors.

Where to look: Rear differential, output shaft seals both sides

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential been serviced or had the seals replaced?”
  • “Any oil leaks noted underneath the vehicle?”

02FB25 Head Gasket External Oil Seep

Inspect both cylinder head gasket perimeter edges with a torch for fresh oil residue or old staining.petrol2014–2023Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $1,200–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

The FB25 flat-four engine can develop a slow external oil seep at the junction between the cylinder head and block. This is a combustion-side oil seal failure that manifests as oil residue or dark staining on the exterior of the engine block, not the internal coolant contamination associated with the older EJ25 engine. The seep is typically gradual, does not cause overheating, and may go undetected for some time. If oil contacts the exhaust system it produces a burning smell. Left unaddressed the seep worsens and can contaminate accessory belts or contribute to unexplained oil consumption. Head gasket replacement is the definitive repair.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil staining or residue along the outer edge of the cylinder head gasket join
  • Intermittent burning oil smell from engine bay after driving particularly when hot
  • Slow unexplained oil consumption between services
  • Light smoke from engine bay if oil contacts hot exhaust components

What to check

  1. Inspect both cylinder head gasket perimeter edges with a torch for fresh oil residue or old staining.
  2. Check underneath the engine for oil drips.
  3. If staining is light or ambiguous, a UV dye and black-light test will confirm the leak source.
  4. Ask about unexplained oil top-ups between services.

Where to look: Cylinder head to block deck joint perimeter on both left and right cylinder banks

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has a mechanic noted any oil seepage near the cylinder head gaskets?”
  • “How often does the engine need oil topped up between scheduled services?”
  • “Has there been any burning oil smell from the engine bay?”

Subaru Outback faults in detail

Narrowed to the Subaru Outback · 2011. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

BR Rear Lateral Link Rubber Bush DeteriorationMajor · SuspensionEJ25 AVCS Oil Control Solenoid Valve FaultMajor · EngineEJ25 Head Gasket External Coolant SeepageCritical · EngineEJ25 SOHC Engine Oil Seepage at Camshaft and Crankshaft SealsMajor · Fluid LeaksEZ30 / EZ36 H6 Valve Stem Seal Oil ConsumptionMajor · EngineFB25 CVT Chain Belt Wear — Shudder and Ratio HuntingMajor · TransmissionFront Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear and Boot FailureCritical · SuspensionLineartronic CVT TR580 Belt Judder at Low SpeedMajor · TransmissionLineartronic CVT TR690 Input Bearing WhineMajor · TransmissionLineartronic TR580 CVT Premature FailureCritical · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Subaru Outback’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Subaru models

Subaru Legacy54 documented faultsSubaru Forester50 documented faultsSubaru Impreza44 documented faultsSubaru STI32 documented faultsSubaru BRZ26 documented faultsSubaru XV19 documented faults

Subaru Outback buyer questions

Is the Subaru Outback reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 34 documented faults for the Subaru Outback, the recurring problem areas are transmission, engine, and suspension. A Subaru Outback with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Subaru Outback?

We've catalogued 34 known faults for the Subaru Outback, covering transmission, engine, and suspension. All 34 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Subaru Outback?

Most single repairs on the Subaru Outback fall between $800–$2,800 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 34 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Subaru Outback?

Yes. A Subaru Outback inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.