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Honda1998–2021 Critical issues documented

Honda Odyssey RC: common faults & what to check

The RC is the Honda Odyssey built 2013 onward. It was sold here with the 2.0 hybrid and 2.4L petrol (K24W). Of the 45 faults documented for the Odyssey, 11 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Honda Odyssey

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

Type the plate for the free basics. The full record is a paid check from $13.49, one car at a time, no subscription.

No NZ plate yet, or buying in Australia? Pick the generation and engine and start a free check below. New to KickTyres? How the check works →

45

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$1,400

Typical repair

24

Service milestones

You're looking at the RC

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2015 Honda Odyssey is the RC generation (2013 to now).

Start your free check on this Honda Odyssey

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Honda Odyssey RCEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Odyssey came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Honda Odyssey · 2015

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Honda Odyssey before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    Look for cracking, splitting, or collapse of the rubber element, and separation between the rubber and inner or outer metal sleeves.

    See why

    Front Subframe Rubber Mount Deterioration

    The front subframe on all three Odyssey generations is attached to the body via large rubber-bonded mounts that isolate NVH. After 10-15 years of service, the rubber compound hydrolysis and ozone cracking cause the mounts to collapse or delaminate from their metal shells. Collapsed mounts allow the subframe to shift position under load, causing unpredictable handling, steering wander, and a persistent low-frequency vibration transmitted through the floorpan and steering column. Failed mounts can also cause misalignment of the lower suspension arms, accelerating front tyre wear and making wheel alignment settings unstable.

    What you would notice

    • Low-frequency vibration or drone felt through the floor and steering wheel at idle and low speeds, not related to engine mounts
    • Thudding or clunking from the front of the vehicle during acceleration from rest or during firm braking
    • Steering pulls inconsistently, and wheel alignment settings cannot be held stable between services
    • Visual cracking, splitting, or collapse visible in rubber element of subframe mounts on underbody inspection

    Typically $500–$1,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Test both sliding doors through five full open-and-close cycles using the remote, exterior handle and interior switch.

    See why

    Power Sliding Door Control Unit Failure

    The RC2 Odyssey power sliding door system uses a dedicated door control unit that manages motor drive speed, obstacle detection logic and latch sequencing. When the control unit fails or its internal firmware corrupts, the door halts mid-travel, reverses without encountering an obstacle, becomes entirely unresponsive to the exterior handle, interior switch or keyfob, or triggers continuous chiming from the B-pillar speaker. Failure can also stem from corroded harness connectors at the B-pillar wiring pass-through, a point exposed to moisture ingress when the door seal ages or after minor accident damage. Control unit reset via Honda HDS clears some cases; others require a replacement unit. The issue affects both driver-side and passenger-side doors and is one of the most commonly cited faults on high-mileage RC2 examples entering the NZ market.

    What you would notice

    • Sliding door stops mid-travel and reverses without obstacle present
    • Door unresponsive to exterior handle, interior switch or remote
    • Continuous or intermittent chiming from sliding door area
    • Door motor audible but door does not travel
    • Sliding door warning or error message on multi-information display

    Typically $400–$1,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect each rear trailing arm bush for cracking, splitting, or visible separation between rubber and metal sleeve.

    See why

    Rear Suspension Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

    The rear multi-link suspension on the RB1-RC2 Odyssey uses large rubber bushes pressed into the trailing arm at both the body mount and wheel carrier attachment points. These bushes carry significant longitudinal and lateral loads from the rear axle over time. Rubber degradation, particularly in New Zealand conditions with high UV exposure and road salt, causes the bush rubber to crack, compress, and eventually separate from its metal sleeve. Collapsed trailing arm bushes cause the rear wheel to shift rearward under braking and toe-out under cornering, creating both a handling safety issue and rapid inner tyre wear. The failure is a common WOF rejection point in New Zealand on Odysseys over 10 years old.

    What you would notice

    • Rear suspension clunking or banging over road imperfections and during braking, originating from the trailing arm area
    • Accelerated inner edge tyre wear on one or both rear tyres indicating toe or camber shift from bush collapse
    • Vehicle wanders or feels unstable at highway speeds, particularly under light braking
    • Visible cracking or rubber tearing at the trailing arm bush locations on underbody inspection

    Typically $400–$950 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect bush rubber for cracking, delamination, oil contamination or visible separation from the metal sleeve.

    See why

    Rear Subframe Mounting Bush Fatigue & Knock

    The RC1 Odyssey rear subframe is located by four large rubber-bonded mounting bushes pressed into the body structure. At higher mileages or after prolonged use on variable-quality NZ roads, the rubber compound fatigues and debonds from its metal sleeve, allowing the subframe to shift fractionally under acceleration, braking and lateral load. The primary symptom is a dull knock or thud originating from the rear of the cabin under throttle application from rest, or when traversing speed humps and sharp dips. Subframe movement also causes gradual rear wheel alignment drift resulting in accelerated or uneven rear tyre wear. Replacement is labour-intensive as it requires full subframe removal to press out and reinstall the bushes. Aftermarket polyurethane kits are available and are significantly more durable than the OEM rubber compound.

    What you would notice

    • Dull knock or thud from the rear under acceleration from rest
    • Clunking noise when the vehicle crosses speed humps or sharp dips
    • Vague or wandering rear-end behaviour at highway speeds
    • Uneven rear tyre wear not explained by inflation pressure or wheel alignment
    • Knock felt through the floor when reversing and applying throttle

    Typically $500–$1,350 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Cycle both sliding doors through ten full open-and-close operations using the dash button, key fob, and interior B-pillar button.

    See why

    Power Sliding Door Motor and Drive Cable Failure

    The electrically operated sliding doors on the Odyssey RC use a cable-and-drum mechanism driven by a small DC motor located in the B-pillar area. The drive cable frays, stretches or jumps its guide pulley, and the motor burns out through repeated attempts to move a binding door. The left (driver-side) door fails most frequently due to higher usage cycles, though right-door failures are also common. Door failure can strand occupants inside if the manual override is not known.

    What you would notice

    • Sliding door reverses or stops mid-travel without obstruction
    • Grinding or whirring noise from B-pillar area during door operation
    • Door operates at noticeably reduced speed and force
    • Sliding door warning light on instrument cluster or in infotainment
    • Door requires manual assistance to open or close fully

    Typically $450–$1,900 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Operate the power tailgate through multiple full open-and-close cycles using both the key fob and the tailgate button.

    See why

    Power Tailgate Motor and Gas Strut Failure

    The power tailgate on the Odyssey RC uses a combination of an electric drive motor and gas-charged struts to operate the liftgate. The gas struts lose pressure over time and are a documented high-wear item; once the struts weaken the tailgate motor is required to work against gravity, accelerating motor and wiring harness wear. Failed struts cause the tailgate to drop and potentially injure occupants, while a burned-out motor leaves the tailgate operable only by hand, often with difficulty if the struts have also failed.

    What you would notice

    • Tailgate drops under its own weight when released in the fully open position
    • Grinding or straining noise from the top of the tailgate during power operation
    • Tailgate operates slowly or stalls before reaching fully open position
    • Tailgate warning light or error code on instrument cluster
    • Tailgate must be lifted manually to assist the motor during opening

    Typically $300–$1,400 to put right.

A 2015 Honda Odyssey: what is due, and when

Servicing

Next service

150,000 km

Inspect the cooling system hoses and radiator condition to maintain optimal temperature regulation.

This car may already have passed it.

Placed by the car’s age, not read from the dash — 75,900–177,100 km after 11 years.

Timing

Our research does not record which this engine uses, and it depends on the engine rather than the model. Check the owner’s manual rather than assume: on a belt-driven engine, an overdue belt is the failure that takes the engine with it.

Behind it

  • 100,000 kmFull fluid flush, including transmission and brake fluid, keeps the K24W engine running at its best.

Ahead of it

  • 200,000 kmGeneral suspension health check, focusing on shocks and struts, to keep the ride comfortable for the family.

“Behind it” means the car has driven past that distance, not that the work was done — ask to see the receipts. These are the intervals for the Fifth Generation · 2.4L (K24W) - Standard trim · Petrol; only the car’s own service book says what has actually been done to it.

See all 11 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked.
Electrical3

01Power Sliding Door Control Unit Failure

Test both sliding doors through five full open-and-close cycles using the remote, exterior handle and interior switch.petrol2013–2017ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Power Sliding Door Motor and Drive Cable Failure

Cycle both sliding doors through ten full open-and-close operations using the dash button, key fob, and interior B-pillar button.2013–2021Electrical
Very commonElectrical $450–$1,900 to fix

The electrically operated sliding doors on the Odyssey RC use a cable-and-drum mechanism driven by a small DC motor located in the B-pillar area. The drive cable frays, stretches or jumps its guide pulley, and the motor burns out through repeated attempts to move a binding door. The left (driver-side) door fails most frequently due to higher usage cycles, though right-door failures are also common. Door failure can strand occupants inside if the manual override is not known.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door reverses or stops mid-travel without obstruction
  • Grinding or whirring noise from B-pillar area during door operation
  • Door operates at noticeably reduced speed and force
  • Sliding door warning light on instrument cluster or in infotainment
  • Door requires manual assistance to open or close fully

What to check

  1. Cycle both sliding doors through ten full open-and-close operations using the dash button, key fob, and interior B-pillar button.
  2. Listen for grinding, intermittent motor straining, or any door that slows, reverses mid-travel, or fails to close fully and latch.
  3. Check the lower door rail for debris and signs of cable fraying.

Where to look: Both rear sliding doors; motor in lower B-pillar, cable runs along lower door rail

Ask the seller

  • “Have either of the sliding door motors or drive cables ever been replaced?”
  • “Do both sliding doors open and close consistently without hesitation every time?”
  • “Has a sliding door warning light or error ever appeared on the dashboard?”

03Power Tailgate Motor and Gas Strut Failure

Operate the power tailgate through multiple full open-and-close cycles using both the key fob and the tailgate button.2013–2021Electrical
CommonElectrical $300–$1,400 to fix

The power tailgate on the Odyssey RC uses a combination of an electric drive motor and gas-charged struts to operate the liftgate. The gas struts lose pressure over time and are a documented high-wear item; once the struts weaken the tailgate motor is required to work against gravity, accelerating motor and wiring harness wear. Failed struts cause the tailgate to drop and potentially injure occupants, while a burned-out motor leaves the tailgate operable only by hand, often with difficulty if the struts have also failed.

Symptoms to notice

  • Tailgate drops under its own weight when released in the fully open position
  • Grinding or straining noise from the top of the tailgate during power operation
  • Tailgate operates slowly or stalls before reaching fully open position
  • Tailgate warning light or error code on instrument cluster
  • Tailgate must be lifted manually to assist the motor during opening

What to check

  1. Operate the power tailgate through multiple full open-and-close cycles using both the key fob and the tailgate button.
  2. Listen for motor strain or grinding at the top of the lift arc.
  3. With the gate fully open, press it down gently with one hand — a healthy strut will resist firmly with no sag.
  4. Check the tailgate does not drop when released from fully open.
  5. Inspect the rubber bump stops at the top of the aperture for cracking indicating repeated contact from a dropping gate.

Where to look: Rear tailgate; motor at top-centre hinge, gas struts either side of aperture

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power tailgate motor or gas struts ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the tailgate stay fully open without drooping when you let go of it?”
  • “Has the tailgate ever made a grinding noise or operated unusually slowly?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

04Front Subframe Rubber Mount Deterioration

Look for cracking, splitting, or collapse of the rubber element, and separation between the rubber and inner or outer metal sleeves.2003–2017Suspension
CommonSuspension $500–$1,400 to fix

The front subframe on all three Odyssey generations is attached to the body via large rubber-bonded mounts that isolate NVH. After 10-15 years of service, the rubber compound hydrolysis and ozone cracking cause the mounts to collapse or delaminate from their metal shells. Collapsed mounts allow the subframe to shift position under load, causing unpredictable handling, steering wander, and a persistent low-frequency vibration transmitted through the floorpan and steering column. Failed mounts can also cause misalignment of the lower suspension arms, accelerating front tyre wear and making wheel alignment settings unstable.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low-frequency vibration or drone felt through the floor and steering wheel at idle and low speeds, not related to engine mounts
  • Thudding or clunking from the front of the vehicle during acceleration from rest or during firm braking
  • Steering pulls inconsistently, and wheel alignment settings cannot be held stable between services
  • Visual cracking, splitting, or collapse visible in rubber element of subframe mounts on underbody inspection

What to check

  1. Look for cracking, splitting, or collapse of the rubber element, and separation between the rubber and inner or outer metal sleeves.
  2. Check that the subframe cannot be shifted laterally under firm hand pressure.
  3. Confirm front wheel alignment is within specification and review any recent alignment history for repeated drift.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect each subframe mount from underneath with a torch and pry bar.

Where to look: Four rubber mounts attaching the front subframe/crossmember to the body floor

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front subframe mounts been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Is there any vibration felt through the floor or steering at idle or low speed that is unrelated to the engine?”
  • “Has wheel alignment been difficult to hold stable between services?”

05Rear Subframe Mounting Bush Fatigue & Knock

Inspect bush rubber for cracking, delamination, oil contamination or visible separation from the metal sleeve.petrol2013–2017Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $500–$1,350 to fix

The RC1 Odyssey rear subframe is located by four large rubber-bonded mounting bushes pressed into the body structure. At higher mileages or after prolonged use on variable-quality NZ roads, the rubber compound fatigues and debonds from its metal sleeve, allowing the subframe to shift fractionally under acceleration, braking and lateral load. The primary symptom is a dull knock or thud originating from the rear of the cabin under throttle application from rest, or when traversing speed humps and sharp dips. Subframe movement also causes gradual rear wheel alignment drift resulting in accelerated or uneven rear tyre wear. Replacement is labour-intensive as it requires full subframe removal to press out and reinstall the bushes. Aftermarket polyurethane kits are available and are significantly more durable than the OEM rubber compound.

Symptoms to notice

  • Dull knock or thud from the rear under acceleration from rest
  • Clunking noise when the vehicle crosses speed humps or sharp dips
  • Vague or wandering rear-end behaviour at highway speeds
  • Uneven rear tyre wear not explained by inflation pressure or wheel alignment
  • Knock felt through the floor when reversing and applying throttle

What to check

  1. Inspect bush rubber for cracking, delamination, oil contamination or visible separation from the metal sleeve.
  2. Check rear tyre wear patterns for evidence of alignment drift.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grip and rock the rear subframe firmly by hand and observe for movement or rubber tearing at each of the four mounting points.

Where to look: Rear subframe, four mounting bush locations to body floor structure

Ask the seller

  • “Have you noticed any knocking or clunking sounds from the rear at low speed?”
  • “Has the rear suspension been inspected or any bushes replaced?”
  • “Is there uneven or accelerated wear visible on the rear tyres?”

06Rear Suspension Trailing Arm Bush Collapse

Inspect each rear trailing arm bush for cracking, splitting, or visible separation between rubber and metal sleeve.2003–2017Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$950 to fix

The rear multi-link suspension on the RB1-RC2 Odyssey uses large rubber bushes pressed into the trailing arm at both the body mount and wheel carrier attachment points. These bushes carry significant longitudinal and lateral loads from the rear axle over time. Rubber degradation, particularly in New Zealand conditions with high UV exposure and road salt, causes the bush rubber to crack, compress, and eventually separate from its metal sleeve. Collapsed trailing arm bushes cause the rear wheel to shift rearward under braking and toe-out under cornering, creating both a handling safety issue and rapid inner tyre wear. The failure is a common WOF rejection point in New Zealand on Odysseys over 10 years old.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear suspension clunking or banging over road imperfections and during braking, originating from the trailing arm area
  • Accelerated inner edge tyre wear on one or both rear tyres indicating toe or camber shift from bush collapse
  • Vehicle wanders or feels unstable at highway speeds, particularly under light braking
  • Visible cracking or rubber tearing at the trailing arm bush locations on underbody inspection

What to check

  1. Inspect each rear trailing arm bush for cracking, splitting, or visible separation between rubber and metal sleeve.
  2. Check rear tyre inner edges for accelerated wear.
  3. Confirm rear wheel alignment is within specification, particularly rear toe settings.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist and rear wheels hanging, grasp the trailing arm and attempt to move it fore-aft and laterally — any movement indicates bush collapse.

Where to look: Rear trailing arms, one bush at body mount and one at wheel carrier per side

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear trailing arm bushes been inspected or replaced, and when did the vehicle last pass a WOF?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the rear suspension over bumps or during braking?”
  • “Do the rear tyres show any unusual wear pattern on the inner or outer edges?”
Depends on the exact engine — 5 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

01K24W Excessive Engine Oil Consumption

Check the engine oil level on the dipstick cold before the test drive, and again at the end if the car has been driven.petrol2013–2021EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Bearing Failure

With engine idling and AC off, listen at the front of the engine for any squealing or rumbling from the compressor pulley.petrol2003–2017Cooling
CommonCooling $320–$2,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The K24A-series engine drives the AC compressor via a belt-driven electromagnetic clutch. The clutch pulley bearing, which spins continuously whether the AC is engaged or not, is subject to grease breakdown and race wear. Bearing failure progresses from an intermittent squeal to a continuous high-pitched screech and ultimately to seizure of the compressor pulley, which shreds the accessory drive belt. On the Honda Odyssey, the compressor is positioned low on the engine block and is exposed to water ingress from below, accelerating bearing corrosion in wet climates. Clutch bearing replacement as a standalone repair is economical, but the repair window is narrow — seized bearings invariably destroy the compressor body.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched squealing or chirping from the front lower engine area, present with AC on or off and worsening with engine speed
  • Squealing suddenly stops and AC ceases to cool — indicates clutch bearing has seized and disengaged the drive
  • Accessory drive belt shows fresh glazing, cracking, or has recently been replaced without apparent cause
  • Burning rubber smell from engine bay under the bonnet during or after AC operation

What to check

With engine idling and AC off, listen at the front of the engine for any squealing or rumbling from the compressor pulley. Spin the clutch pulley by hand with the belt removed — it should rotate smoothly with no roughness or lateral play. Engage the AC and confirm the clutch engages with a clean click and that the compressor operates without unusual noise. Inspect the accessory belt for glazing or shredding that indicates recent bearing distress.

Where to look: AC compressor, lower front of engine block, driven by serpentine/accessory belt

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the air conditioning cool effectively, and has it ever stopped working or required regassing?”
  • “Is there any squealing or whining from the engine bay, particularly when the AC is switched on?”
  • “Has the accessory drive belt been replaced recently, and if so, was a reason given?”

03K24W GDI Intake Valve Carbon Buildup

Request full service history and odometer.petrol2013–2017EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04K24W VTC Actuator Cold-Start Rattle

petrol2013–2021Engine
CommonEngine $350–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Variable Timing Control (VTC) actuator on the K24W engine drains of oil pressure when the engine is off, and on cold starts takes 1–3 seconds to re-pressurise the actuator vanes, producing a loud metallic rattle from the top of the engine. Prolonged operation allows the actuator and intake camshaft phaser to wear accelerated, eventually causing timing deviation and rough running. Honda revised the actuator design and introduced an oil-jet modification to reduce drain-back, documented in service bulletins applicable to the RC series.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from top of engine for 1–3 seconds immediately on cold start
  • Rattle disappears completely once oil pressure builds
  • In advanced cases rattle audible briefly even on warm restarts
  • Check engine light with VTC or VTEC-related code stored
  • Rough idle for the first few seconds of cold running

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and stand at the open bonnet listening for a metallic rattling from the cam cover area lasting up to 3 seconds before oil pressure silences it. If the noise persists beyond 5 seconds or is heard when warm, the actuator has significant wear.

Where to look: Top of engine, intake camshaft end near cam cover

Ask the seller

  • “Does the car make a rattling noise from the engine for the first second or two on a cold start?”
  • “Has the VTC actuator ever been replaced or inspected by a dealer?”
  • “What engine oil specification and brand has been used consistently?”

05CVT Shudder and Judder on Light Acceleration

petrol2013–2021Transmission
CommonTransmission $300–$8,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The Honda CVT fitted to petrol Odyssey RC1 variants develops a distinctive low-frequency shudder or vibration felt through the seat and cabin floor during gentle throttle application from rest or at low speeds, caused by belt-to-pulley slip due to degraded CVT fluid or internal wear on the drive pulley faces. Honda issued a CVT fluid upgrade specification and ECM reprogramming to alter lockup behaviour, which resolves early-stage cases; mechanically advanced cases require valve body or complete transmission replacement. The failure is accelerated by infrequent fluid changes or use of non-Honda HCF-2 fluid.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or judder sensation through seat during gentle acceleration from rest
  • Vibration most pronounced between 10–50 km/h under light throttle
  • Symptom worse when engine is cold and often diminishes at higher throttle openings
  • Transmission appears hesitant or hunts for ratio during low-speed manoeuvring
  • In severe cases, a transmission warning light or torque converter code is logged

What to check

On a cold and a warm test drive, accelerate gently from 0–40 km/h with light throttle and feel for a buzzing vibration or judder through the seat, floor and steering wheel. Try gentle hill starts as the phenomenon is most pronounced under load. Pull the CVT dipstick (if accessible) and check fluid colour — dark brown or burnt-smelling fluid indicates neglect.

Where to look: Transmission unit under cabin floor, transmission tunnel

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the CVT fluid ever been changed, and if so, with Honda HCF-2 fluid?”
  • “Have you ever felt a vibration or shudder through the car during gentle acceleration?”
  • “Has the transmission received any software updates or dealer reprogramming?”
Other Honda Odyssey engines and years34 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling18

01K24A Balance Shaft Oil Pump Failure

Confirm service history shows oil pump replacement or balance shaft module removal.petrol2003–2008Engine
OccasionalEngine $3,000–$8,000 to fix

Does not apply

The K24A 2.4 engine uses a balance shaft module with an integrated secondary oil pump. The oil pump impeller in the balance shaft module can fracture and shatter at high mileage, causing sudden oil pressure loss and catastrophic engine failure with little warning. This is the most critical pre-purchase check on the RB1/RB2 Odyssey.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden oil pressure warning light followed by engine knocking from bearing failure
  • Ticking or tapping from the lower engine under moderate load at operating temperature

What to check

Confirm service history shows oil pump replacement or balance shaft module removal. A clicking or tapping from the engine base under load followed by rapid oil pressure warning is characteristic of early failure. Oil pressure should be checked at idle and under load with a mechanical gauge.

Where to look: Balance shaft oil pump module in the lower engine block

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the k24a balance shaft oil pump been inspected or repaired?”

02F23A timing belt failure (interference engine)

Verify timing belt replacement date and kilometre record in service history.petrol1999–2003Engine
OccasionalEngine $450–$5,500 to fix

Does not apply

The RA6/RA9 Odyssey uses a belt-driven F23A engine — an interference design where belt failure causes piston-to-valve contact and immediate catastrophic internal engine damage. Honda specifies 90,000 km or 7-year replacement intervals. Many JDM imports arrive in NZ with unknown or lapsed belt history. Failure is total engine loss.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warning before failure — engine stops immediately
  • If caught early: chirping or squealing from belt area
  • Visible cracking or fraying on belt if inspected
  • Engine won't start after belt jump or break

What to check

  1. Verify timing belt replacement date and kilometre record in service history.
  2. If unknown, treat as overdue.
  3. Remove inspection cover to visually check belt condition — look for glazing, cracking, fraying, or oil contamination.
  4. Check water pump and tensioner condition at same time.

Where to look: Front of F23A engine behind plastic timing belt cover

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced, and do you have receipts?”
  • “Has the water pump been replaced along with the timing belt?”
  • “What is the current odometer reading versus the last belt service?”

033rd Gear Clutch Pack Failure (5-speed Auto)

Check transmission fluid colour and smell — dark brown or burnt fluid confirms clutch material contamination.petrol2003–2013TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04K24A Timing Chain Stretch and Tensioner Wear

Cold-start the engine after sitting overnight and listen for a rattle from the front of the engine in the first 5-15 seconds.petrol2003–2013EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05J30A and F22B Timing Belt Interference Failure

Demand documentary proof of timing belt replacement with mileage and date.petrol1998–2003EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

065-Speed Automatic ATF Degradation and Harsh Shifting

Before test drive, pull the ATF dipstick and smell the fluid — burnt or dark brown fluid indicates neglect.petrol1998–2008TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07CVT Belt Judder on Automatic Variants

Test drive and feel for rhythmic vibration during light acceleration.petrol2003–2013Transmission
CommonTransmission $600–$3,500 to fix

Does not apply

The Odyssey CVT develops shudder from belt and pulley wear on urban-use examples. Honda CVTF specification is critical.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic shudder or buzz during light acceleration from rest
  • CVT fluid darker than the correct clear pink with a slightly burnt smell

What to check

Test drive and feel for rhythmic vibration during light acceleration. CVT fluid darker than the correct clear pink indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: CVT gearbox in engine bay

Parts involved: CVT belt and pulleys.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cvt belt judder on automatic been inspected or repaired?”

08F23A-era automatic ATF degradation causing 2nd-gear dropout

Check ATF colour and smell on dipstick.petrol1999–2003Transmission
CommonTransmission $300–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The RA6/RA9 4-speed automatic is intolerant of neglected ATF. As fluid oxidises, clutch pack pressure in the 2nd gear circuit drops, causing the transmission to slip or skip 2nd gear under load. A full flush can sometimes dislodge varnish and worsen the condition; drain-and-fill with Honda DW-1 is the safest approach. Advanced cases require valve body or clutch pack rebuild.

Symptoms to notice

  • Slipping or flare in 2nd gear under acceleration
  • Delayed engagement from Park into Drive
  • Burnt smell from transmission
  • Dark or burnt-smelling ATF on dipstick

What to check

Check ATF colour and smell on dipstick. Road test with moderate acceleration through 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Ask for full service history. A dark brown or black fluid reading indicates long-neglected service.

Where to look: 4-speed automatic transmission, 2nd gear clutch pack and valve body

Parts involved: Clutch, Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid been changed, and when?”
  • “Has the car ever had a transmission flush machine used on it?”
  • “Any hesitation or slipping on gear changes?”

09Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

Road test at 70-100 km/h with light throttle and confirm torque converter lock-up engagement is smooth.petrol2003–2008Transmission
CommonTransmission $250–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The BDGA 5-speed automatic transmission fitted to RB1/RB2 Odysseys is prone to torque converter lock-up clutch shudder. The lock-up clutch friction material degrades over time, particularly when vehicles are operated with degraded or incorrect ATF. The shudder occurs as the torque converter attempts to engage its lock-up clutch at cruising speeds. Honda's primary remedy is a complete ATF drain-and-fill using Honda ATF-DW1 (replacing the older ATF-Z1 specification), sometimes requiring two or three fluid exchanges. Severe cases require torque converter replacement.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Vibration or shudder through the vehicle body and floorpan at highway speeds (70-100 km/h) during steady light-throttle cruising
  • Shudder disappears when accelerator is released or applied firmly, indicating torque converter lock-up clutch as the source
  • Transmission fluid is brown or has a burnt odour when checked on the dipstick
  • Occasional hesitation or hunting between gears 4 and 5 during gentle deceleration

What to check

  1. Road test at 70-100 km/h with light throttle and confirm torque converter lock-up engagement is smooth.
  2. Check ATF condition and colour (should be pink/red, not brown or burnt-smelling).
  3. Inspect for ATF leaks at transmission pan and cooler lines.

Where to look: Transmission/torque converter, beneath centre of vehicle

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever been changed, and what fluid specification was used?”
  • “Does the vehicle vibrate or shudder at steady highway speeds between 70 and 100 km/h?”
  • “Has any transmission work or torque converter replacement been carried out?”

10i-MMD Sport Hybrid Battery Coolant Pump Seizure

Request a full hybrid system diagnostic scan via Honda HDS tool to check for stored codes related to battery or PCU over-temperature events.hybrid2013–2021Cooling
OccasionalCooling $750–$2,400 to fix

Does not apply

The i-MMD Sport Hybrid system uses a sealed secondary cooling loop with a dedicated electric water pump to regulate temperature in the lithium-ion traction battery and Power Control Unit (PCU). This pump is prone to bearing seizure without warning, causing the hybrid system to enter thermal protection mode and progressively reduce or eliminate electric drive assistance. Because the cooling loop is sealed and the pump is a non-serviceable item in routine maintenance schedules, failure often occurs without prior warning signs.

Symptoms to notice

  • Amber or red hybrid system warning light illuminates without prior symptoms
  • Engine runs continuously at low speeds where hybrid would normally run electric-only
  • Battery temperature warning displayed on multi-information display
  • Hybrid system enters reduced-power fail-safe mode
  • Coolant loss from closed hybrid loop with no visible engine coolant loss

What to check

  1. Request a full hybrid system diagnostic scan via Honda HDS tool to check for stored codes related to battery or PCU over-temperature events.
  2. On the test drive observe whether the EV indicator and charge/discharge gauge behave normally throughout; a pump that is partially failing may show erratic battery temperature behaviour.
  3. Check the hybrid cooling loop reservoir (if externally accessible) for low coolant level.

Where to look: Engine bay coolant circuit; pump typically mounted on inner guard or firewall near PCU

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the hybrid system warning light ever illuminated, even briefly?”
  • “Has the hybrid battery coolant pump been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Has a full hybrid system scan ever been carried out at a Honda dealer?”

11K24A VTC Actuator Cold-Start Rattle

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for metallic rattle from engine top.petrol2003–2013Engine
CommonEngine $600–$2,000 to fix

Does not apply

The K24A 2.4 VTEC engine VTC actuator rattles on cold start from oil pressure lag. Clears in 3-5 seconds normally. Persistent rattle indicates worn actuator vanes or chain guides requiring attention.

Symptoms to notice

  • Metallic rattle from engine top on cold start clearing as oil pressure builds
  • Rattle persisting beyond 10 seconds or occurring at operating temperature

What to check

Cold-start from overnight cold and listen for metallic rattle from engine top. Normal: clears in under 5 seconds. Ask about oil change intervals — extended intervals accelerate actuator wear.

Where to look: Front of engine, timing chain and VTC actuator

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the k24a vtc actuator cold-start rattle been inspected or repaired?”

12Collapsed hydraulic engine mounts causing idle vibration

The low-slung RB1-RB4 Odysseys use fluid-filled front and side engine mounts that leak and collapse with age, typically from 120,000 km.petrol2003–2013Engine
CommonEngine $400–$1,500 to fix

Does not apply

The low-slung RB1-RB4 Odysseys use fluid-filled front and side engine mounts that leak and collapse with age, typically from 120,000 km. The result is a coarse vibration through the cabin at idle in Drive, and a clunk or lurch when shifting between Drive and Reverse. It will not strand you, but it accelerates wear on exhaust joints and other mounts, and genuine hydraulic mounts are not cheap.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vibration through the steering wheel and seats at idle, worse in Drive with AC on
  • Clunk or thump when selecting Drive or Reverse
  • Engine visibly rocking when blipping the throttle with the bonnet open
  • Vibration eases once moving

What to check

With the bonnet open and an assistant holding the brake, have them shift Drive-Reverse-Drive and watch how far the engine rocks — more than a couple of centimetres suggests dead mounts. At idle in Drive with the AC on, feel for buzzing through the wheel and seat. Look at the top of the front mount for fluid staining or cracked rubber.

Where to look: Engine mounts around the engine bay — front lower mount and side mounts

Ask the seller

  • “Have any engine mounts been replaced, and were they genuine or aftermarket?”
  • “Does it vibrate at idle when in gear with the AC running?”

13RA-Series Radiator Plastic Tank Cracking and Coolant Loss

Examine both plastic side-tanks for cracks, especially at the crimped joint with the core.petrol1998–2003CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

14Radiator Plastic End Tank Cracking and Coolant Loss

Inspect the upper and lower plastic end tanks for cracks, seepage staining, or white mineral deposits at the tank-to-core seam.petrol2008–2013Cooling
CommonCooling $400–$900 to fix

Does not apply

The OEM aluminium core/plastic end tank radiators on both the K24A and J35A variants develop cracks at the crimp joint between the plastic tanks and the aluminium core after 10+ years or 100,000 km. The failure is caused by thermal cycling fatigue on the tank-to-core seal. Coolant seeps initially from one corner, often going unnoticed until the low coolant warning illuminates. If unaddressed, coolant loss leads to engine overheating; the K24A is particularly sensitive to overheat events.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low coolant warning light or reservoir level dropping without obvious leak
  • Coolant drip or puddle beneath the front of the vehicle after a run
  • White staining or crystallised deposit at the plastic tank-to-core seam
  • Engine temperature gauge climbing higher than normal, especially in traffic

What to check

  1. Inspect the upper and lower plastic end tanks for cracks, seepage staining, or white mineral deposits at the tank-to-core seam.
  2. Run the engine to operating temperature and recheck for drips beneath the radiator.
  3. Check the overflow reservoir level and look for coolant smell without an obvious external leak.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and check coolant level.

Where to look: Radiator behind the front grille, upper and lower plastic end tanks at the crimped seam

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the radiator ever been replaced or repaired?”
  • “When was the coolant last flushed and refilled?”
  • “Has the temperature gauge ever climbed above its normal position?”

15VTEC Solenoid Oil Screen Blockage

Scan for P2646 code before purchase.petrol2003–2013EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

16K24A Oil Pressure Sensor Failure and False Warning

When the low oil pressure warning appears, stop the engine and check the oil level.petrol2003–2008Engine
CommonEngine $150–$500 to fix

Does not apply

The Honda Odyssey RB1/RB3 K24A 2.4 oil pressure sensor fails causing false low oil pressure warnings. The warning must always be treated as genuine until the sensor is confirmed faulty.

Symptoms to notice

  • Low oil pressure warning light appearing intermittently at idle or on startup
  • Warning appearing only at operating temperature but clearing on restart

What to check

When the low oil pressure warning appears, stop the engine and check the oil level. If a workshop inspection is possible: A scan tool can read real-time oil pressure to confirm sensor vs actual pressure.

Where to look: Oil pressure sensor on the K24A engine block

Ask the seller

  • “Has the k24a oil pressure sensor failure been inspected or repaired?”

17Rear AC Expansion Valve Blockage

2003–2013Cooling
OccasionalCooling $380–$1,200 to fix

Does not apply

The RB1 and RB3 Odyssey dual-zone air conditioning system routes refrigerant to a separate rear evaporator unit through a rear thermostatic expansion valve (TXV). Moisture ingress into the refrigerant circuit — typically through a degraded O-ring at a Schrader valve service port, a rear evaporator pipe union or the rear expansion valve body itself — allows water vapour to enter the refrigerant stream. At operating pressure and temperature, water freezes at the TXV orifice, forming an ice plug that partially or completely blocks refrigerant flow to the rear evaporator. With no refrigerant expanding through the rear coil, rear passengers receive only ambient-temperature air regardless of control settings. The blockage may temporarily clear when the system is shut off and the ice melts, creating intermittent symptoms that complicate diagnosis. Chronic moisture contamination also accelerates internal corrosion of the rear evaporator core.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rear air conditioning blows warm air while front system cools normally
  • Rear cooling works intermittently — improving after the system has been off for a period
  • Hissing or gurgling noise from the rear HVAC unit
  • Frost or ice visible on rear refrigerant pipe connections in severe cases

What to check

Run the rear air conditioning on maximum cool for at least 15 minutes on a warm day and measure the vent outlet temperature — it should reach below 10 degrees Celsius. If the rear blows warm while the front is cold, suspect the rear expansion valve. Have a certified refrigeration technician measure refrigerant moisture content using a sight glass and moisture indicator. Inspect all rear refrigerant pipe O-rings and the rear service port cap for sealing integrity.

Where to look: Rear HVAC unit — mounted under the rear cargo floor or above the rear passenger area depending on variant; rear expansion valve on the refrigerant inlet pipe to the rear evaporator

Parts involved: Mechatronic / valve body, Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the rear air conditioning cool effectively in warm weather?”
  • “Has the AC system been regassed or had any refrigerant work carried out?”
  • “Has any HVAC technician inspected the rear evaporator or expansion valve?”
  • “Has the rear AC ever worked intermittently or stopped cooling without a clear reason?”

18Throttle Body Carbon Fouling

Inspect throttle body bore for grey-black carbon deposits.petrol2003–2013Engine
CommonEngine $80–$300 to fix

Does not apply

K24A throttle body accumulates carbon causing rough idle and hesitation.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough idle and hesitation from rest at light throttle
  • Occasional stalling when releasing throttle in traffic

What to check

  1. Inspect throttle body bore for grey-black carbon deposits.
  2. Note rough idle and hesitation.

Where to look: Throttle body on intake manifold

Ask the seller

  • “Has the throttle body carbon fouling been inspected or repaired?”
Electrical7

01i-MMD Sport Hybrid Traction Battery Capacity Degradation

Request a Honda HDS hybrid battery state-of-health (SOH) report from a dealer — this is the only definitive test.hybrid2013–2021Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $5,500–$15,000 to fix

Does not apply

The approximately 1.3 kWh lithium-ion traction battery in the i-MMD system loses usable state-of-health over charge cycles and calendar years, reducing its ability to buffer power between the generator motor and drive motor. As capacity drops the engine runs more frequently and at less efficient load points, measurably increasing fuel consumption. Honda does not offer partial module replacement on RC-generation Odyssey hybrid batteries; only full battery assembly replacement is available through the dealer network, and remanufactured units from Japan are the primary cost-effective option in NZ/AU.

Symptoms to notice

  • Real-world fuel economy materially worse than Honda's specification for the model
  • Engine runs at low speeds and during decelerations where electric mode previously operated
  • Battery state-of-charge indicator rises and falls unusually rapidly
  • Reduced or absent electric-only pull from standstill
  • Stored hybrid battery capacity degradation codes on HDS scan (even without warning light)

What to check

  1. Request a Honda HDS hybrid battery state-of-health (SOH) report from a dealer — this is the only definitive test.
  2. As a quick proxy, compare real-world fuel consumption against Honda's published figure; a healthy i-MMD Odyssey should achieve close to the rated figure in mixed driving, and a deviation greater than 20% on a well-maintained example suggests significant battery decline.
  3. Ask to see the battery SOC gauge cycle during a test drive.

Where to look: Under front passenger seat area or rear cargo floor (year dependent)

Ask the seller

  • “Has a Honda dealer carried out a hybrid battery state-of-health diagnostic test?”
  • “What is the current real-world fuel economy compared to when the car was new?”
  • “Has the hybrid system ever produced warning lights or stored fault codes?”

02i-MMD DC-DC Converter Failure and 12V Auxiliary Battery Drain

Ask when the 12V auxiliary battery was last replaced and check its age label.hybrid2013–2021Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $350–$4,500 to fix

Does not apply

The i-MMD hybrid system relies on an internal DC-DC converter within the Power Control Unit to step the high-voltage traction battery down to 12V to maintain the auxiliary battery charge. When this converter degrades or the vehicle sits unused for extended periods, the 12V auxiliary battery discharges completely, preventing the hybrid system from initialising. Unlike a conventional car, an i-MMD Odyssey that fails to display the green READY indicator cannot simply be jump-started in the conventional sense; incorrect jump-starting to the auxiliary battery can damage the PCU, making this a costly misdiagnosis.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hybrid system fails to reach READY state — all warning lights illuminate but engine does not start
  • Completely dead electrics with no apparent reason despite recent use
  • Multiple simultaneous system warning lights on startup that clear after a battery charge
  • Repeated 12V auxiliary battery failures within short intervals
  • Car fails to start after sitting unused for more than two to three weeks

What to check

  1. Ask when the 12V auxiliary battery was last replaced and check its age label.
  2. Look for evidence of past no-start events or jump-start history (corrosion on battery terminals, chafed jump cables stored in car).
  3. Request a dealer scan of PCU DC-DC converter output voltage.
  4. Drive the car and confirm the READY light illuminates promptly and all hybrid gauges show normal activity.

Where to look: 12V auxiliary battery in engine bay or boot; DC-DC converter within the Power Control Unit assembly

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car ever failed to start or required a jump-start or battery charge to get going?”
  • “When was the 12V auxiliary battery last replaced?”
  • “Has the hybrid system ever needed a dealer reset or PCU diagnostic following a no-start event?”

03Electric Power Steering Column Motor Failure

Scan for EPS fault codes.2003–2013Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $500–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

EPS column motor fails causing sudden or gradual loss of power assistance.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sudden loss of power steering with EPS warning light
  • Heavy steering requiring effort especially at low speeds

What to check

  1. Scan for EPS fault codes.
  2. Test steering — heavy or inconsistent feel warrants investigation.

Where to look: EPS column motor and control unit

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering column motor been inspected or repaired?”

04Power Sliding Door Cable Fraying and Motor Failure

Operate the power sliding door through at least three full open-close cycles.petrol1998–2013Electrical
Very commonElectrical $400–$1,000 to fix

Does not apply

The RA and RB Odyssey power sliding doors are driven by a cable-and-motor system. The drive cables pass through plastic pulley guides that wear and create tight-radius friction points. Over time the steel cables fray at the pulley, causing the door to stall mid-travel. The drive motor then sustains an over-current event trying to overcome the jammed cable and burns out. Honda issued multiple TSBs addressing cable and motor assemblies across this platform.

Symptoms to notice

  • Sliding door stops suddenly mid-travel and will not complete the cycle
  • Grinding or screeching noise as door is operated
  • Door drops slightly at the front edge when fully open (upper roller involvement)
  • Sliding door warning light on dashboard

What to check

  1. Operate the power sliding door through at least three full open-close cycles.
  2. Listen for mechanical strain and check for hesitation.
  3. Manually push the door when the motor is off to feel cable drag or roller binding.
  4. Inspect the cable entry point at the lower pulley guide for frayed wire strands.
  5. Check if any previous owner has disabled the power function and left it as a manual door.

Where to look: B-pillar / D-pillar area — sliding door cable drum, motor unit, and pulley guides

Ask the seller

  • “Has the sliding door motor or cable ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the power sliding door operate reliably in cold weather?”

05Alternator Brush and Bearing Premature Failure

At idle, voltage below 13.5V suggests alternator under-output.petrol2008–2013Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $420–$950 to fix

Does not apply

The Mitsubishi-sourced alternators fitted to both the K24A and J35A Odyssey variants develop premature brush and bearing wear, typically between 130,000 and 200,000 km. Symptoms begin with intermittent battery warning lights or voltage fluctuation visible on the instrument cluster. A failing alternator bearing also produces a rising whine tied to engine RPM. Complete failure leaves the vehicle stranded on battery alone (15–30 minutes). The OEM alternator is expensive; rebuilt units are commonly used.

Symptoms to notice

  • Battery warning light illuminating intermittently, especially at idle
  • Voltage fluctuation causing dimming headlights or flickering interior lights at low RPM
  • Rising whine from the engine bay that scales with engine speed
  • Battery repeatedly going flat despite being a good battery

What to check

  1. At idle, voltage below 13.5V suggests alternator under-output.
  2. Rev the engine to 2,000 RPM and confirm voltage holds.
  3. Listen for a rising whine from the alternator on the accessory belt side that increases with engine speed.
  4. Check the battery warning light is off in normal operation.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the engine running, measure battery terminal voltage with a multimeter — should be 13.8–14.5V.

Where to look: Alternator mounted on the front of the engine block, driven by the accessory belt

Parts involved: Alternator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the alternator ever been replaced or tested?”
  • “Has the battery warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Has the battery ever gone flat without an obvious cause like leaving lights on?”

06Auxiliary 12V Battery Drain Causing Hybrid Lockout

Check the battery manufacture date label inside the engine bay.hybrid2017 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $280–$750 to fix

Does not apply

The RC4 Odyssey Absolute hybrid depends on its 12V auxiliary lead-acid battery to wake the power control unit, close the high-voltage main contactors and complete the i-MMD system initialisation sequence at startup. If the 12V battery voltage drops below approximately 11 volts the PCU cannot complete the boot sequence, leaving the vehicle in a hard lockout state with a red hybrid warning and no Ready-ON response. Grey import RC4 examples frequently arrive with original factory batteries that are five to eight years old, partially discharged during sea freight and further stressed by after-market accessories or alarm systems adding parasitic draw. Unlike a conventional flat-battery event, a hybrid lockout after 12V failure requires Honda HDS diagnostic equipment to confirm PCU reinitialisation and clear multiple stored fault codes following battery replacement. This makes what would otherwise be a minor battery replacement into a dealer-level repair event.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle will not Ready-ON and displays red hybrid warning when Power button is pressed
  • Multiple warning lights illuminate simultaneously on startup attempt
  • 12V battery requires jump-starting or recharging after short periods of disuse
  • Interior electronics and lights dim noticeably when accessories are operated
  • Vehicle sat unused for several weeks and subsequently fails to start

What to check

  1. Check the battery manufacture date label inside the engine bay.
  2. Scan for PCU initialisation fault codes and hybrid contactor faults.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Test the 12V auxiliary battery voltage at rest and under load using a dedicated battery load tester.
  4. Measure parasitic draw with a multimeter in series after a 30-minute vehicle sleep period.

Where to look: Auxiliary 12V battery in front engine bay (typically right side), hybrid power control unit

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 12V auxiliary battery been replaced since the vehicle was imported?”
  • “Has the car ever failed to Ready-ON or required a jump start?”
  • “Are any after-market accessories, dashcams or alarm systems fitted?”

07Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle

Drive over rough surfaces with windows down and listen for rattle from steering area.2003–2013Electrical
CommonElectrical $600–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

EPS rack develops internal rattle at low speeds and over rough surfaces.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or rattling from steering column area at low speeds over rough surfaces
  • Vibration felt through steering wheel during slow manoeuvring

What to check

Drive over rough surfaces with windows down and listen for rattle from steering area.

Where to look: Electric power steering rack assembly

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the electric power steering rack rattle been inspected or repaired?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior7

01Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Seal Leak

Check the front crossmember and rack housing for oil film or weeping around the rack bellows, input shaft, and rack end boots.petrol2008–2013Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $600–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

The RB3/RB4 Odyssey uses an electric power steering system with a hydraulic-assist rack-and-pinion unit that retains internal gear oil within the rack housing. The rack's input shaft seals and rack end seals deteriorate from age and heat cycling, allowing gear lubricant to weep past the seals. In more advanced cases, the leak contaminates the EPS motor winding area mounted to the rack column, accelerating electrical failure of the steering assist motor. Seal kits are available but require rack removal; in New Zealand the repair often becomes a full rack replacement due to parts availability and labour economics.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil film or drips visible on front crossmember or subframe directly beneath the steering rack
  • EPS warning light illuminating intermittently, particularly after long drives when the rack is heat-soaked
  • Steering effort varies inconsistently lock-to-lock, indicating rack seal bypass or motor saturation
  • Oily residue inside or around the rack bellows boots on inspection

What to check

  1. Check the front crossmember and rack housing for oil film or weeping around the rack bellows, input shaft, and rack end boots.
  2. Inspect the EPS motor/controller unit on the column for oil contamination.
  3. Test the steering for consistent power assist weight across full lock-to-lock movement; loss of assist or an intermittent EPS warning light indicates advanced motor contamination.

Where to look: Front steering rack, beneath engine bay crossmember

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever appeared on the dashboard?”
  • “Has there been any steering rack work or replacement carried out?”
  • “Is there any sign of oil residue on the underside of the engine bay near the steering rack?”

02Front Strut Top Mount Bearing Collapse

With the vehicle stationary on level ground, turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock while a second person listens at each front wheel arch.petrol2003–2008Suspension
CommonSuspension $420–$950 to fix

Does not apply

The RB1 Odyssey uses MacPherson-type front struts with an upper mount assembly that incorporates a plain thrust bearing allowing the strut to rotate freely during steering input. The bearing races are lightly greased from factory and have minimal sealing against water ingress. In NZ and AU conditions, road spray saturates the mount, washing out grease and corroding the bearing races. The plastic cage degrades, the balls wear flat spots, and the bearing seizes or collapses entirely. Once seized, the strut binds against the mount during cornering and parking manoeuvres, transmitting a sharp clunk, crack or grinding noise into the cabin. Failure is progressive and ultimately compromises steering return-to-centre.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or cracking noise from front suspension during cornering
  • Single loud pop when turning steering wheel from full lock
  • Steering feels notchy or heavy at low speed
  • Grinding sensation through steering wheel on tight turns
  • Poor steering self-centring after corners

What to check

With the vehicle stationary on level ground, turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock while a second person listens at each front wheel arch. Grasp the top of each spring perch in the engine bay and feel for rough or binding rotation. Inspect the rubber upper mount bellows for cracking and the visible bearing race for surface corrosion. Check both sides as failure is often bilateral.

Where to look: Front strut upper mount / ACM bearing — accessible from inside the engine bay at the top of each front spring tower

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front strut top mounts or bearings been replaced?”
  • “Any clunking or cracking noises from the front of the vehicle during cornering?”
  • “When were the front struts last inspected or replaced?”

03Rapid inner-edge rear tyre wear from aggressive rear camber

petrol2003–2013TyresRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Front Lower Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the boot for splitting.2003–2013Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$800 to fix

Does not apply

Front lower arm ball joints wear causing clunking and handling imprecision on the Odyssey.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps
  • Imprecise handling feel when cornering

What to check

Inspect the boot for splitting. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle raised, lever the lower arm and check for ball joint play.

Where to look: Front lower suspension control arms

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front lower arm ball joint been inspected or repaired?”

05Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2003–2013Brakes
CommonBrakes $200–$600 to fix

Does not apply

Front and rear brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

06AC Evaporator Refrigerant Leak

Run the AC on maximum cold for 5 minutes and confirm cold air from all vents.petrol2008–2013Interior
OccasionalInterior $900–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The aluminium evaporator core inside the dashboard of the RB3/RB4 Odyssey is known to develop pinhole leaks at solder joints or from micro-corrosion caused by organic acid condensate. Refrigerant (R134a) slowly escapes, reducing cooling performance progressively until the AC compressor cuts out on low-pressure protection. Diagnosis requires dye injection or electronic leak detection. Replacement requires full dashboard removal, making it a high-labour job. Recharging without repair is a temporary measure only.

Symptoms to notice

  • AC progressively loses cooling performance across one or two seasons
  • AC compressor intermittently cuts out or fails to engage on low-pressure protection
  • System required refrigerant recharge more than once in three years
  • Faint oily film or UV dye residue visible at cabin air vents under blacklight

What to check

  1. Run the AC on maximum cold for 5 minutes and confirm cold air from all vents.
  2. Ask when the AC was last regassed and whether it required repeat recharging in successive seasons.
  3. A UV dye inspection under blacklight inside the cabin vents can reveal evaporator seepage.
  4. Confirm the AC compressor engages (audible click and idle RPM change when AC is switched on).

Where to look: AC evaporator core inside the dashboard heater/AC box, centre of the cabin behind the instrument panel

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the air conditioning system ever been regassed, and how many times?”
  • “Does the AC blow consistently cold on a 5-minute full-cool test right now?”
  • “Has the evaporator or any AC component inside the dashboard ever been replaced?”

07Rear Tailgate Weatherseal Shrinkage and Water Ingress

Run a finger along the entire tailgate rubber seal and feel for hardness, cracking, or sections that have pulled away from the body.petrol2008–2013Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $180–$600 to fix

Does not apply

The rubber weatherseal around the rear tailgate/hatch hardens and shrinks with age, breaking contact with the body aperture and allowing water to enter the cargo area. Water pools in the spare tyre well beneath the cargo floor, leading to corrosion of the spare wheel carrier, rear body sill, and tailgate wiring harness connectors. Prolonged ingress can damage the rear entertainment system wiring loom and the under-floor tray itself. This is a climate-aggravated failure common in NZ/AU conditions.

Symptoms to notice

  • Damp or wet cargo mat and spare tyre well after rain
  • Musty odour from the rear cargo area
  • Visible rust staining or corrosion on the spare wheel carrier or tub
  • Rear entertainment system or tail light faults linked to corroded connectors

What to check

  1. Run a finger along the entire tailgate rubber seal and feel for hardness, cracking, or sections that have pulled away from the body.
  2. Inspect the rear wiring harness connectors for corrosion.
  3. Check the tailgate jamb for rust bubbling at the lower corners.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: Lift the cargo floor panel and inspect the spare tyre well for standing water, staining, or rust on the metal tub.

Where to look: Rear tailgate aperture seal, spare tyre well beneath cargo floor

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear tailgate weatherseal ever been replaced?”
  • “Is the cargo floor mat and spare tyre well dry with no sign of water staining?”
  • “Has any rear electrical fault or tailgate light issue occurred?”
Fluid leaks2

01J30A Front Main Seal and Cam Seal Oil Leak

Any oil on the timing belt is a red flag — the belt must be replaced immediately.petrol2000–2013Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02J30A power steering pump seal leak

Inspect power steering pump body and both hose fittings for oily residue or fresh fluid.petrol2000–2008Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $180–$550 to fix

Does not apply

The J30A-engined RB1/RB2 Odyssey power steering pump uses rubber seals on the pressure and return line fittings that harden with age and heat cycling. The high-pressure fitting O-ring is the primary failure point. Leaks range from slow seep to active drip. Power steering fluid contamination of the belt and pulleys follows if unattended.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid puddle or drip below engine bay on driver side
  • Low power steering fluid requiring top-up
  • Groaning or whining power steering at low speed if run low
  • Oily residue on power steering pump body or belt

What to check

  1. Inspect power steering pump body and both hose fittings for oily residue or fresh fluid.
  2. Check fluid reservoir level.
  3. Look for belt contamination.
  4. Check the return hose rubber for cracking near the pump fitting.

Where to look: Power steering pump driven by accessory belt, front left of J30A engine

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid level needed topping up?”
  • “Any groaning from the steering at low speed or on full lock?”
  • “Have the power steering hoses or pump seals been replaced?”

Honda Odyssey faults in detail

Narrowed to the Honda Odyssey · 2015. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

K24W Excessive Engine Oil ConsumptionMajor · EngineK24W GDI Intake Valve Carbon BuildupMajor · EnginePower Sliding Door Control Unit FailureMajor · Electrical

Compare the Honda Odyssey

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Honda Odyssey’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Honda Odyssey

Other Honda models

Honda CR-V59 documented faultsHonda Accord55 documented faultsHonda Jazz51 documented faultsHonda Fit42 documented faultsHonda Civic39 documented faultsHonda StepWGN31 documented faults

Honda Odyssey buyer questions

Is the Honda Odyssey reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 45 documented faults for the Honda Odyssey, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and electrical. A Honda Odyssey with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Honda Odyssey?

We've catalogued 45 known faults for the Honda Odyssey, covering engine, transmission, and electrical. All 45 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Honda Odyssey?

Most single repairs on the Honda Odyssey fall between $400–$1,400 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 45 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Honda Odyssey?

Yes. A Honda Odyssey inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.