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Subaru2000–2023 Critical issues documented

Subaru Impreza GE: common faults & what to check

The GE is the Subaru Impreza built 2007–2015. It was sold here with the 1.5 boxer petrol and 2.0L petrol (EJ20). Of the 44 faults documented for the Impreza, 18 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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44

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$450–$2,000

Typical repair

35

Service milestones

You're looking at the GE

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2009 Subaru Impreza is the GE generation (2007 to 2015).

Start your free check on this Subaru Impreza

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Subaru Impreza GEEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Impreza came with 2, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Subaru Impreza · 2009

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Subaru Impreza before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    With the engine off, pump the brake pedal five times to exhaust residual vacuum, then hold firm pressure on the pedal and start the engine.

    See why

    Brake Vacuum Servo (Booster) Diaphragm Failure

    The brake vacuum servo (booster) fitted across all three Impreza generations uses a rubber diaphragm to multiply pedal force using manifold vacuum. On EJ15 and EJ20 engines the manifold vacuum can be lower than specification due to age-related inlet manifold gasket leaks and idle control valve degradation, which reduces servo effectiveness. On higher-mileage examples the servo diaphragm itself cracks or stiffens, causing a total or partial loss of brake assistance. This results in a dramatically increased pedal effort required to achieve the same braking force, which can be dangerous in emergency situations. A failed servo can also allow a vacuum hiss from the servo housing.

    What you would notice

    • Very hard brake pedal requiring significantly more force than usual to slow the vehicle
    • A continuous hissing sound from the firewall area behind the brake pedal when the engine is idling
    • The pedal does not sink slightly when the engine is started from a cold pedal pump-down
    • Longer-than-normal stopping distances despite the brake system appearing otherwise intact

    Typically $420–$950 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Run a finger inside each rear wheel arch lip feeling for bubbles.

    See why

    Rust in JDM imports — rear arches, sills and underbody

    Most NZ Imprezas of this era are ex-Japan imports, and cars from snowy prefectures spent winters on salted roads. Rust shows in the rear wheel arch lips, sill seams, around the fuel filler, boot floor seams and on suspension components underneath. Surface rust on subframes is common and manageable; bubbling arch lips and crusty sill seams mean expensive panel work and can become WoF issues. Border checks catch the worst, but plenty of borderline cars are on NZ roads.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling paint on rear arch lips
    • Crusty seams under the sills
    • Heavy surface rust on subframes and suspension arms
    • Rust stains weeping from panel seams

    Typically $500–$3,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    With engine running, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and listen for a knock or rattle that changes with steering angle.

    See why

    Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Knock

    The GE-series Impreza replaced hydraulic power steering with a column-mounted electric power steering (EPS) unit, and the steering rack itself uses a rack-and-pinion design with a spring-loaded yoke that holds the rack against the pinion gear. Over time the yoke adjuster preload diminishes due to wear of the plastic yoke pad, allowing the rack to develop measurable radial play. This produces a knock or rattle over road imperfections that is transmitted directly through the steering column to the wheel. Additionally, the EPS control module can develop software or sensor faults that cause intermittent loss of power assist or a steering wheel that requires excess effort on one lock, logged as fault code C0057 or C1511.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or rattling sound from the steering rack transmitted through the steering wheel over bumpy roads
    • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster, sometimes intermittently
    • Noticeably heavier steering effort on one side of centre compared to the other
    • Steering wheel vibration or feedback that is inconsistent with road surface

    Typically $600–$2,400 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Excessive movement at the inner pivot point indicates bush failure.

    See why

    Front lower arm inner bush failure causing vibration

    The front lower control arm inner pivot bushes on the GH/GE Impreza degrade from around 80,000 km onward, with NZ/AU road conditions accelerating wear. The inner bush is a hydraulic or rubber-bonded unit pressed into the front subframe. When it fails or collapses, the lower arm pivot point moves under braking and cornering loads, producing steering vibration through the wheel under braking, wandering straight-line tracking, and a clunking or knocking sound over sharp bumps. The failure also causes inner-edge tyre wear if camber shifts as the deflected bush alters suspension geometry under load.

    What you would notice

    • Steering wheel vibration or shimmy felt under moderate to firm braking
    • Clunk or knock from front suspension over sharp bumps or during direction changes
    • Wandering or imprecise straight-line tracking on smooth roads
    • Premature inner-edge tyre wear on one or both front tyres
    • Steering pull to one side under braking

    Typically $450–$1,100 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Look for fresh oil staining or dried oil residue on the driveshaft CV boots or differential housing.

    See why

    Rear differential output shaft oil seal leak

    GH/GR Impreza AWD models commonly develop oil leaks at the rear differential output shaft seals. The seals deteriorate with age and heat cycling, allowing differential oil to weep onto the driveshafts and rear subframe. Left unattended, oil loss from the rear diff leads to differential wear and eventual bearing failure. This is a documented pattern on AWD Subaru platforms of this era and is often found during pre-purchase inspections.

    What you would notice

    • Oil visible on rear driveshafts or differential casing
    • Oily residue on inner face of rear wheels
    • Differential whine or clunk under load at low speed
    • Low differential oil level on inspection

    Typically $350–$800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Spin the hub by hand and listen for grinding or roughness.

    See why

    Rear wheel bearing failure

    GD/GG and GH/GR Impreza rear wheel bearings have a documented shorter-than-expected service life, particularly on all-wheel-drive variants where the rear axle carries more load and is subject to greater lateral stress in corners. Bearings commonly fail in the 100,000–160,000 km range. NZ/AU roads and gravel exposure accelerate wear. Failure can progress from a hum to a roar, and in advanced cases can allow wheel play which affects brake and suspension geometry.

    What you would notice

    • Humming or growling noise from rear that changes pitch with speed
    • Noise changes when cornering (worse or better on left vs right turns)
    • Vibration felt through seat or floor at highway speed
    • Wheel play detectable when car is on a hoist with bearing unloaded

    Typically $300–$700 to put right.

Subaru Impreza service schedule

The 3 engines a 2009 Subaru Impreza was sold with, each with its own intervals. Pick your engine above to narrow this to one. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Third Generation (GE/GH/GR/GV) · 2007–2014 · 2.5L Turbo (EJ255) - WRX

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    If there is no record of it, the timing belt, water pump and idler pulleys should be refreshed at this distance.

  2. 150,000 km

    Suspension bushings and struts can start to feel tired here and are worth a professional inspection.

  3. 200,000 km

    Check over the peripheral engine sensors and the health of the turbocharger to keep performance where it should be.

Third Generation (GE/GH/GR/GV) · 2007–2011 · 1.5L (EL15) - Entry level hatchback

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    Inspect the accessory belts and check what condition the radiator hoses are in.

  2. 150,000 km

    Review the suspension bushings and steering rack boots for any signs of perishing.

  3. 200,000 km

    A full cooling system health check covering the radiator and thermostat keeps it reliable.

Third Generation (GE/GH/GR/GV) · 2007–2011 · 2.0L (EJ20) - Naturally Aspirated 2.0i/R

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The first timing belt service should be done by this point, so make sure the receipt or sticker is there.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check for tired suspension parts such as the strut inserts and control arm bushings.

  3. 200,000 km

    Confirm the cooling system is healthy at this stage, especially the radiator hoses and how well the water pump is working.

See all 18 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 4 rated critical.
Electrical1

01Electric Power Steering Rack Rattle and Knock

With engine running, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and listen for a knock or rattle that changes with steering angle.2007–2011Electrical
CommonElectrical $600–$2,400 to fix

The GE-series Impreza replaced hydraulic power steering with a column-mounted electric power steering (EPS) unit, and the steering rack itself uses a rack-and-pinion design with a spring-loaded yoke that holds the rack against the pinion gear. Over time the yoke adjuster preload diminishes due to wear of the plastic yoke pad, allowing the rack to develop measurable radial play. This produces a knock or rattle over road imperfections that is transmitted directly through the steering column to the wheel. Additionally, the EPS control module can develop software or sensor faults that cause intermittent loss of power assist or a steering wheel that requires excess effort on one lock, logged as fault code C0057 or C1511.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or rattling sound from the steering rack transmitted through the steering wheel over bumpy roads
  • EPS warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster, sometimes intermittently
  • Noticeably heavier steering effort on one side of centre compared to the other
  • Steering wheel vibration or feedback that is inconsistent with road surface

What to check

With engine running, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and listen for a knock or rattle that changes with steering angle. Have an assistant hold the front wheels straight while you rock the steering wheel left and right with moderate force — feel for a clunk or dead spot indicating yoke preload loss. Check that the EPS warning light is not illuminated on the dashboard. If a workshop inspection is possible: Scan the EPS control module for stored fault codes using an OBD-II scanner that supports Subaru proprietary modules.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted transversely across the front subframe; EPS motor and control unit on the steering column under the dashboard

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EPS warning light ever come on, and was it diagnosed?”
  • “Has the steering rack or column been replaced or adjusted?”
  • “Does the steering feel equal effort in both directions when parking or doing a U-turn?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior2 critical8

02Brake Vacuum Servo (Booster) Diaphragm Failure

With the engine off, pump the brake pedal five times to exhaust residual vacuum, then hold firm pressure on the pedal and start the engine.petrol2000–2016Brakes
OccasionalBrakes $420–$950 to fix

The brake vacuum servo (booster) fitted across all three Impreza generations uses a rubber diaphragm to multiply pedal force using manifold vacuum. On EJ15 and EJ20 engines the manifold vacuum can be lower than specification due to age-related inlet manifold gasket leaks and idle control valve degradation, which reduces servo effectiveness. On higher-mileage examples the servo diaphragm itself cracks or stiffens, causing a total or partial loss of brake assistance. This results in a dramatically increased pedal effort required to achieve the same braking force, which can be dangerous in emergency situations. A failed servo can also allow a vacuum hiss from the servo housing.

Symptoms to notice

  • Very hard brake pedal requiring significantly more force than usual to slow the vehicle
  • A continuous hissing sound from the firewall area behind the brake pedal when the engine is idling
  • The pedal does not sink slightly when the engine is started from a cold pedal pump-down
  • Longer-than-normal stopping distances despite the brake system appearing otherwise intact

What to check

With the engine off, pump the brake pedal five times to exhaust residual vacuum, then hold firm pressure on the pedal and start the engine. The pedal should drop noticeably (approximately 10–15 mm) as vacuum builds and the booster activates. If the pedal does not move or the pedal feel is very hard (similar to pushing against a solid wall), the servo has failed. Listen for a hissing sound from the firewall area with the engine idling, which indicates a diaphragm crack.

Where to look: Brake vacuum booster unit mounted on the firewall directly behind the brake master cylinder

Parts involved: Intake manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the brake pedal feel unusually hard, or do you have to press harder than expected to stop the car?”
  • “Is there any hissing noise from the firewall area when the engine is running?”

03Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

2000–2011Suspension
CommonSuspension $320–$850 to fix

The front lower control arm ball joints on both GD and GE Impreza models are a serviceable pressed-fit design, but the ball joint housing is vulnerable to accelerated wear when driven over the unsealed roads common in New Zealand. Grit and water ingress past the rubber boot causes the steel ball and socket to wear unevenly, increasing radial and axial play beyond the manufacturer's specification of approximately 0.5 mm. Once wear exceeds this limit the wheel can track inconsistently under braking and cornering, and in severe cases the joint can separate without warning, causing total loss of steering and wheel control. Both the GD MacPherson strut and GE multi-link front geometry rely on the lower ball joint as the primary lateral locating point.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension over bumps, speed humps, or during slow-speed steering input
  • Vague or inconsistent steering feel with the car wandering under light cornering
  • Uneven tyre wear on the inner edge of the front tyres
  • Steering wheel vibration or shimmy at highway speeds

What to check

With the vehicle safely raised and the wheel hanging free, grip the tyre at 12 and 6 o'clock and attempt to rock it — any detectable play in the ball joint (not the wheel bearing) is cause for rejection. Check the ball joint boot for cracks, tears, or missing grease. Inspect for any evidence of ball joint stud corrosion or rust weeping from the boot clamp area. If a workshop inspection is possible: Use a pry bar under the lower arm to check for vertical play.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, outboard end adjacent to the steering knuckle, both left and right sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front suspension been inspected recently, and were the ball joints checked for play?”
  • “Has the car been used on gravel or unsealed roads?”
  • “Are there any WOF advisories relating to suspension or steering?”

04Rust in JDM imports — rear arches, sills and underbody

Run a finger inside each rear wheel arch lip feeling for bubbles.2000–2011Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Front lower arm inner bush failure causing vibration

Excessive movement at the inner pivot point indicates bush failure.petrol2007–2011SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Rear wheel bearing failure

Spin the hub by hand and listen for grinding or roughness.petrol2000–2011Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$700 to fix

GD/GG and GH/GR Impreza rear wheel bearings have a documented shorter-than-expected service life, particularly on all-wheel-drive variants where the rear axle carries more load and is subject to greater lateral stress in corners. Bearings commonly fail in the 100,000–160,000 km range. NZ/AU roads and gravel exposure accelerate wear. Failure can progress from a hum to a roar, and in advanced cases can allow wheel play which affects brake and suspension geometry.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or growling noise from rear that changes pitch with speed
  • Noise changes when cornering (worse or better on left vs right turns)
  • Vibration felt through seat or floor at highway speed
  • Wheel play detectable when car is on a hoist with bearing unloaded

What to check

Spin the hub by hand and listen for grinding or roughness. Test drive at 80–100 km/h and note any directional drone. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist and wheel off, grasp the hub and rock it at 12 and 6 o'clock and 9 and 3 o'clock positions — any play indicates bearing wear.

Where to look: Rear hub assemblies (left and right), inside the wheel hub behind the brake disc

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the rear wheel bearings been replaced, and at what mileage?”
  • “Has the car been used off-road or on gravel roads?”
  • “Any humming or droning noise on the motorway?”

07CV Joint Boot Cracking and Grease Loss

Inspect front CV joint boots for cracking and grease expulsion.2007–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$700 to fix

Front CV joint boots crack with age allowing grease to escape and contamination to enter. Worn joints click when turning at low speed under power.

A concertina rubber constant-velocity joint boot fitted to a car driveshaft.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The rubber CV boot on a driveshaft — this is the part that splits and throws grease.

Ildar Sagdejev ( Specious ) · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clicking from front when turning at slow speed or under power out of corners
  • Grease spatter visible on inside of wheel arch near the CV boot

What to check

Inspect front CV joint boots for cracking and grease expulsion. Clicking from front when turning at slow speed confirms worn joint.

Where to look: Front driveshaft CV joints and boots

Parts involved: CV joint and boot.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the cv joint boot cracking and been inspected or repaired?”

08Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2007–2016Brakes
CommonBrakes $200–$600 to fix

Front and rear brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • One disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

  1. Check for pulling under braking.
  2. Feel for uneven wheel heat.
  3. Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

09Electric Power Steering Column Coupling Creak and Knock

The GE/GH Impreza generation introduced electric power steering (EPS) in place of the hydraulic system used on the GD.petrol2007–2011Suspension
CommonSuspension $180–$550 to fix

The GE/GH Impreza generation introduced electric power steering (EPS) in place of the hydraulic system used on the GD. The intermediate steering shaft coupling between the EPS motor column and the steering rack pinion develops a creak, knock, or clunk, particularly at low speed and when the steering is loaded during parking manoeuvres or at walking pace. Subaru issued a TSB addressing the issue through lubrication of the intermediate shaft splines and universal joint with a specified molybdenum disulphide grease. In some cases the EPS motor itself develops a groan under maximum steering lock.

Symptoms to notice

  • A dry creak or knock felt and heard through the steering wheel at slow speed when turning
  • A clunk from the steering column when traversing speed humps or rough surfaces
  • A groan from beneath the dashboard on full steering lock in a car park
  • The noise is absent at highway speed but returns in slow-speed or parking situations

What to check

With the vehicle stationary and the engine running, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and listen for a creak, click, or knock from the steering column area. Replicate by driving slowly over a speed bump with the steering loaded: a knock felt through the wheel on bump rebound is characteristic of this fault. Have an assistant listen at the firewall while you turn the wheel.

Where to look: Intermediate steering shaft universal joint coupling, located on the firewall between the EPS column and the steering rack

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the steering produce any creaking, clicking, or knocking at low speed or when parking?”
  • “Has any work been done on the steering column or EPS system?”
Fluid leaks1

10Rear differential output shaft oil seal leak

Look for fresh oil staining or dried oil residue on the driveshaft CV boots or differential housing.petrol2007–2011Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $350–$800 to fix

GH/GR Impreza AWD models commonly develop oil leaks at the rear differential output shaft seals. The seals deteriorate with age and heat cycling, allowing differential oil to weep onto the driveshafts and rear subframe. Left unattended, oil loss from the rear diff leads to differential wear and eventual bearing failure. This is a documented pattern on AWD Subaru platforms of this era and is often found during pre-purchase inspections.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil visible on rear driveshafts or differential casing
  • Oily residue on inner face of rear wheels
  • Differential whine or clunk under load at low speed
  • Low differential oil level on inspection

What to check

  1. Look for fresh oil staining or dried oil residue on the driveshaft CV boots or differential housing.
  2. Check the differential oil level via the fill plug if accessible.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With car on a hoist, inspect the rear differential output shaft seals where the driveshafts enter the differential casing.

Where to look: Rear differential housing, left and right output shaft seal points where driveshafts exit

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential oil ever been changed?”
  • “Any leaks detected at previous WOF inspections?”
  • “Any clunking or whining from the rear under acceleration?”
Depends on the exact engine — 8 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling8

01WRX/STI piston ringland failure (tuned/thrashed turbo cars)

Look for tuning evidence: aftermarket blow-off valve, boost controller, exhaust, ECU stickers.petrol2000–2014Engine
OccasionalEngine $5,000–$9,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Turbo Impreza variants (GD/GG and GH/GR WRX and STI, heavily represented among NZ JDM imports) crack piston ringlands, especially the EJ255 and any car that has been tuned, run lean, or fed 91 octane. A cracked ringland shows up as compression loss and oil consumption in one cylinder and means an engine rebuild. NZ has a huge population of ex-Japan WRXs with unknown tuning history, which makes a compression/leak-down test essentially mandatory on any turbo Impreza.

Symptoms to notice

  • Misfire or rough idle on one cylinder
  • Blue smoke under boost
  • Excessive oil use
  • Low compression on one cylinder
  • Aftermarket boost gauge/ECU fitted

What to check

Look for tuning evidence: aftermarket blow-off valve, boost controller, exhaust, ECU stickers. Insist on a compression and leak-down test before purchase — no exceptions on a turbo Impreza. Ask what fuel it runs (should be 98, minimum 95). A freshly rebuilt engine with receipts from a known Subaru shop is safer than an untouched high-km one.

Where to look: Engine internals — pistons; verified only by compression/leak-down test through the spark plug holes

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Is it tuned, and by whom?”
  • “What fuel does it run?”
  • “Will you allow a compression test before sale?”
  • “Any engine rebuild history?”

02EJ154 timing belt, tensioner and water pump replacement overdue (interference: yes)

petrol2000–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03FB20 Excessive Oil Consumption — Piston Ring Seal Degradation

Check the oil level on the dipstick and ask when it was last topped up; compare against claimed service interval.petrol2007–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04EJ25 SOHC head gasket external leak (2.5i GD/GH)

Confirm which engine it has first — a JDM 1.5/2.0 is lower risk than a 2.5.petrol2000–2011Engine
CommonEngine $2,500–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

Non-turbo 2.5 Imprezas (GD 2.5i/RS and GH/GE 2.5i) share the EJ251/EJ253 external head gasket leak that plagues same-era Foresters and Legacys — a slow oil/coolant weep at the head-to-block joint from around 150,000 km that eventually causes coolant loss and overheating. JDM 1.5/2.0 EJ15/EJ20 cars (the bulk of NZ imports) are much less affected, so this mainly matters on NZ-new and US-spec 2.5 cars. Repair is both sides with MLS gaskets plus timing belt/water pump while apart.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant smell after driving
  • Slow coolant loss
  • Oil weep at the head-to-block seam
  • Temperature creeping on long climbs

What to check

Confirm which engine it has first — a JDM 1.5/2.0 is lower risk than a 2.5. On 2.5 cars, torch the head-to-block seam both sides from underneath for weeping, check the overflow bottle, and ask for head gasket invoices. Walk away from any car with evidence of overheating (crusty deposits, new radiator plus old gaskets).

Where to look: Head-to-block joint, both sides of the boxer engine, low in the bay

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Is this the 2.5 or a JDM 2.0?”
  • “Have the head gaskets been done, with invoice?”
  • “Has it ever overheated?”

05EJ20/EJ25 head gasket weep at 80-120k km

Inspect both cylinder head gasket seam lines for coolant deposits, rust streaks, or oil film with engine warm.petrol2007–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06EJ154 1.5L timing chain stretch and guide wear

Start the engine cold and listen carefully for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine in the first 30 seconds.petrol2007–2011Engine
OccasionalEngine $900–$2,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The EJ154 1.5-litre engine introduced on the GH-generation Impreza (base model, not WRX) uses a timing chain that has documented premature stretch and chain guide wear, particularly after 80,000–120,000 km. Unlike the larger EJ20, the EJ154 has less robust guide material. Chain stretch causes timing retard, rough idle, and increased fuel consumption. In severe cases the chain can skip a tooth or break, causing valve-to-piston contact. This was a new failure mode not seen on the earlier EJ15.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling noise from engine at cold start, improving after 30 seconds
  • Rough idle or slight misfire at cold temperatures
  • Check engine light with timing-related codes (P0011, P0012)
  • Increased fuel consumption
  • Engine management warning on startup

What to check

  1. Start the engine cold and listen carefully for a rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine in the first 30 seconds.
  2. Ask for service history to see if chain or guides have been replaced.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Have OBD codes read for any stored or pending timing advance/retard codes.

Where to look: Front of engine, behind the timing cover on the driver's side

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or guides ever been replaced?”
  • “Does the engine rattle on cold start?”
  • “Has the car ever shown a check engine light related to timing?”

07EJ15 Valve Stem Seal Deterioration and Oil Burning

Observe the exhaust pipe on a cold start after the engine has sat overnight.petrol2000–2011EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08Lineartronic CVT Belt Judder Under Light Throttle

Test drive at 30–50 km/h with light steady throttle and listen/feel for a rhythmic shudder or vibration through the seat and pedals.petrol2007–2011TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Subaru Impreza engines and years26 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling17

01EJ25 turbo ringland failure

A healthy EJ25 turbo should show 150–180 psi with less than 10% variation between cylinders.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02EJ20 Turbo Head Gasket Failure — Coolant/Oil Cross-Contamination

Remove oil filler cap and inspect for brown mayonnaise emulsion.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03EJ25 Phase 2 head gasket external coolant/oil seep

With engine warm, inspect the cylinder head-to-block seam on both sides of the flat-four engine for coolant staining, oil seeping, or discolouration.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04EJ20 Head Gasket Failure at Coolant Passages

Inspect for white crystalline deposits on the block face below the exhaust manifold.petrol2000–2007CoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05CVT Lineartronic TR580 Judder and Shudder at Low Speed

During a test drive, apply light throttle from a standstill on flat ground and feel for a vibration or shudder through the drivetrain at 10-40 km/h.petrol2016–2023TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Lineartronic CVT shudder and hesitation (GJ/GP, GK/GT)

Do repeated stop-start pull-aways on the test drive, including on a slight uphill — that is where judder appears first.2011–2019TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07FB16/FB20 Lineartronic CVT Chain and Pulley Wear

petrol2011–2016TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08CVT chain judder and fluid degradation

Drive the car gently at low speed on a flat road, holding light throttle at 30–50 km/h.petrol2011 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09TZ1B4ZF2AA 4-speed auto torque converter shudder

Test drive at steady 70-90 km/h in Drive under very light throttle to induce converter lock-up and check for vibration or judder.petrol2000–2007TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10FB20 Oil Consumption from Piston Ring Wear

Check oil level frequently.petrol2011–2016Engine
CommonEngine $500–$3,000 to fix

Does not apply

The GJ/GP Impreza FB20 2.0 engine consumes oil from piston ring wear on high-mileage examples. Oil consumption above 1 litre per 5000km is abnormal.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue smoke from exhaust on startup and deceleration
  • Frequent oil level top-ups needed between regular service intervals

What to check

Check oil level frequently. Blue smoke from exhaust on startup indicates ring or valve stem seal wear.

Where to look: FB20 engine cylinder bores, piston rings, and valve stem seals

Ask the seller

  • “Has the fb20 oil consumption from piston been inspected or repaired?”

11DCCD Centre Differential Actuator Failure (GD WRX STI)

petrol2000–2007Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $850–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

GD-generation Impreza WRX STI models fitted with the Driver's Control Centre Differential (DCCD) use an electro-hydraulic actuator to vary the torque split ratio of the centre differential between 35:65 and 50:50 front-to-rear on demand. The actuator solenoid and position sensor assembly is susceptible to moisture ingress from the tunnel area and develops internal corrosion that either causes the actuator to stick at a fixed position or fail open, locking the DCCD into a set torque split regardless of driver input or the automatic mode logic. A stuck-closed actuator causes heavy understeer and binding during tight-radius turning, with associated driveline clunking.

Symptoms to notice

  • DCCD warning light illuminated on the instrument cluster
  • DCCD mode indicator fails to change position when the control is cycled through manual settings
  • Driveline binding, tight steering, or a hopping sensation during slow-speed full-lock turning manoeuvres
  • Clunking or jerking from the transmission tunnel under throttle application in tight corners

What to check

With the engine running, cycle through the DCCD manual modes using the dashboard control and observe whether the indicator steps through all positions. A position that does not change or a DCCD warning light indicates actuator failure. On a low-speed full-lock turning circle in a car park, check for driveline binding or a hopping sensation — this suggests the diff is locked when it should be open. Scan for DCCD-specific DTCs using a Subaru Select Monitor or compatible OBD2 tool.

Where to look: DCCD actuator unit on the centre differential assembly inside the transmission tunnel

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the DCCD warning light ever appeared, and if so was it diagnosed and repaired?”
  • “Does the car feel like it is binding or fighting when turning at low speed in car parks?”

12FB20 External Head Gasket Oil Seep

With engine warm, inspect both sides of the block-to-head joint line for oil film, residue, or blackened grime tracks.petrol2016–2023EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

13FB16/FB20 timing chain cold-start rattle

Start the engine from fully cold (ideally after overnight soak) and listen immediately for chain rattle from the front of the engine.petrol2011 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

14FB20 DI intake valve carbon buildup

Look for hard black carbon deposits more than 1 mm thick on valve stems and port walls.petrol2011–2016EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

15Denso low-pressure fuel pump recall — engine stall

Run the VIN plate through the Subaru NZ recall checker before purchase and confirm the fuel pump recall shows as completed.petrol2017–2019Engine
OccasionalEngine $0–$1,000 to fix

Does not apply

GK/GT Imprezas were caught in the huge Denso fuel pump recall: the pump impeller can swell, causing hesitation, rough running, or the engine stalling without restart — potentially at speed. Subaru recalled affected 2017-2019 Imprezas in NZ and Australia and replaces the pump free. The check is whether this specific car actually had the recall done; imports and cars with lapsed ownership records sometimes slipped through.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hesitation or stumble under load
  • Engine stalls and won't restart when hot
  • Check engine light with fuel-trim codes

What to check

  1. Run the VIN plate through the Subaru NZ recall checker before purchase and confirm the fuel pump recall shows as completed.
  2. Ask for the dealer stamp or invoice showing the recall work.
  3. If outstanding, factor a dealer visit before relying on the car — the work itself is free.

Where to look: In-tank fuel pump, under the rear seat/fuel tank

Parts involved: Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the fuel pump recall been completed on this VIN?”
  • “Any history of stalling or hard hot-starts?”

16EJ20 AVCS Oil Control Solenoid Fault

Inspect oil condition — dark, sludgy oil is a strong predictor.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

17FB20 Valve Stem Seal Deterioration and Cold-Start Blue Smoke

petrol2016–2023Engine
CommonEngine $1,000–$2,500 to fix

Does not apply

The FB20D engine fitted to the GK/GT Impreza uses rubber valve stem seals that harden and lose elasticity as mileage accumulates, typically becoming problematic after 80,000-120,000 km. Degraded seals allow engine oil to drain past the intake and exhaust valve guides during overnight cold soaks, pooling in the combustion chamber and producing a puff of blue-grey smoke on initial cold startup. Oil consumption accelerates as the condition progresses, and the smoke disappears after the first minute of running, which can allow the issue to be missed during a brief inspection.

Symptoms to notice

  • Short puff of blue-grey smoke from exhaust on cold start, clearing after 30-60 seconds
  • Sweet or oily exhaust smell on first startup
  • Gradual oil consumption requiring top-up between services
  • Oily black deposits on interior of exhaust pipe
  • No smoke once engine reaches operating temperature

What to check

  1. Observe the cold start from behind the vehicle before the engine has been warmed up — look for a distinct puff of blue or blue-grey smoke from the exhaust in the first 10-30 seconds of running.
  2. Check the engine oil level and service records for oil top-up frequency.
  3. Inspect exhaust pipe interior for oily black deposits.

Where to look: Cylinder head valve guides, exhaust tailpipe

Ask the seller

  • “Do you see any puff of blue smoke from the exhaust when starting the car cold first thing in the morning?”
  • “How often do you need to top up the engine oil between scheduled oil changes?”
  • “Have you or any previous owner been advised by a mechanic that the engine is consuming oil?”
Electrical3

01e-Boxer High-Voltage Lithium-Ion Battery Degradation

Confirm hybrid system warning lights (HV battery, EV mode) are not illuminated during the test drive.hybrid2020–2023Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $3,500–$9,000 to fix

Does not apply

The e-Boxer mild hybrid system fitted to select Impreza models uses a lithium-ion traction battery (approximately 118 V) housed beneath the rear seat/boot floor to power an electric motor integrated between the engine and CVT. As with all lithium-ion chemistry, the battery undergoes capacity degradation over time and charge cycles, reducing the electric assist contribution and fuel economy. In more advanced degradation, the battery management system may disable the hybrid assist entirely and store fault codes, and partial cell failure can trigger hybrid system warning lights that require dealer diagnosis with Subaru Select Monitor.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hybrid system warning light or HV battery fault code stored
  • Reduction or complete loss of electric motor assist on acceleration
  • Fuel economy measurably worse than rated figures
  • Increased engine workload during low-speed urban driving where EV assist should activate
  • Dealer Subaru Select Monitor reporting reduced HV battery state of health

What to check

  1. Confirm hybrid system warning lights (HV battery, EV mode) are not illuminated during the test drive.
  2. Check that the EV assist gauge shows motor contribution during light-load acceleration.
  3. Ask for any dealer readout of HV battery state of health.
  4. Inspect boot floor area for any signs of moisture or rust near battery housing vents.

Where to look: High-voltage lithium-ion battery pack beneath rear seat and boot floor

Ask the seller

  • “Has the hybrid system ever shown a warning light, and has a Subaru dealer performed a HV battery health check?”
  • “Is the EV assist feature currently functioning — do you see electric motor contribution on the instrument cluster during light acceleration?”
  • “Has the vehicle been dealer-serviced for all scheduled hybrid system checks?”

02EyeSight Stereo Camera Internal Fogging and Forced Windshield Replacement

2016–2023Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $1,600–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The EyeSight dual-camera system mounted behind the upper windshield on GK/GT Impreza is susceptible to internal condensation and fogging between the camera housing and windshield glass, triggered by temperature cycling, age of the windshield interlayer, or minor stone chip contamination near the camera bracket zone. Once fogged, the EyeSight system disables itself as it cannot achieve stereo image lock. Critically, any windshield replacement on an EyeSight-equipped model mandates an OEM-spec glass and a dealer-performed stereo camera recalibration, making even a minor chip repair economically significant.

Symptoms to notice

  • EyeSight warning light illuminated on dash with system disabled
  • Visible haze or whitish fogging on interior windshield surface in camera zone
  • Pre-collision braking assist and adaptive cruise control permanently unavailable
  • Camera fault code stored in Subaru SSM diagnostic system
  • Fogging that does not clear with interior defrost or demist

What to check

  1. Inspect the interior face of the windshield in the EyeSight camera bracket zone (upper centre, roughly 20 cm wide band) for any haze, fogging, or delamination of the interlayer.
  2. Confirm all EyeSight warning lights are off during the test drive.
  3. Ask if any windshield work has been done and whether dealer recalibration was completed.

Where to look: Upper centre windshield behind rear-view mirror, EyeSight camera bracket

Ask the seller

  • “Has the windshield ever been replaced or repaired, and was dealer EyeSight recalibration completed afterwards?”
  • “Is the EyeSight system currently fully functional — does adaptive cruise control and pre-collision braking operate without warning lights?”
  • “Has the car ever shown an EyeSight warning light, even temporarily?”

03Starlink/Harman head unit freezing and reversing camera dropout

The GK/GT's Harman-built infotainment unit is known for freezing, rebooting mid-drive, losing Bluetooth pairing, and blanking the reversing camera.2017–2019Electrical
CommonElectrical $400–$2,000 to fix

Does not apply

The GK/GT's Harman-built infotainment unit is known for freezing, rebooting mid-drive, losing Bluetooth pairing, and blanking the reversing camera. A US class action (Udeen v. Subaru) covered 2017-2018 models and Subaru issued multiple firmware updates; units that still misbehave after updates need replacement, and out of warranty that is an expensive part even second-hand. A dead reversing camera display is a safety annoyance and can be a haggling point.

Symptoms to notice

  • Screen freezes or reboots while driving
  • Reversing camera shows black screen
  • Bluetooth drops or won't pair
  • Backlight stays on after the car is off

What to check

During the test drive, use the head unit constantly: pair a phone, play audio, engage reverse several times and confirm the camera appears instantly each time. Ask whether firmware updates were done at a dealer. A unit that reboots even once during a 20-minute drive will annoy you forever.

Where to look: Dashboard head unit / centre screen

Ask the seller

  • “Has the head unit had firmware updates or been replaced?”
  • “Does the reversing camera ever go black?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Front lower control arm bush collapse

Look for cracked, split, or displaced rubber.petrol2016 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,100 to fix

Does not apply

The GK/GT Impreza (2016 onward) global platform uses front lower control arms with pressed rubber bushes that have shown premature degradation in Australasian conditions. Bush failure causes increased toe variation under braking and cornering, which produces understeer, steering wander, and increased tyre wear. This is documented across the GK global platform including XV and Forester variants on the same architecture. Bush collapse is accelerated on cars driven on unsealed or corrugated roads.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from front suspension over bumps or during braking
  • Vague or wandering steering feel
  • Uneven or feathered tyre wear on front axle
  • Car pulling to one side under braking

What to check

Look for cracked, split, or displaced rubber. Have a helper apply the brakes while you observe for bush movement. Check front tyre wear pattern for feathering or uneven shoulder wear. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the car on a hoist, inspect the front lower control arm inner bushes where the arm bolts to the subframe.

Where to look: Front lower control arm pivot bushes at subframe mounting points, both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front control arm bushes been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Any clunking from the front suspension over bumps?”
  • “Has the car had a wheel alignment recently?”

02Front Strut Knuckle and Hub Carrier Rust-Through

Attempt to thread a caliper bolt by hand — resistance or cross-threading indicates corroded threads.petrol2000–2007Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $350–$900 to fix

Does not apply

The GD Impreza front strut hub carriers (knuckles) are cast iron and in New Zealand's coastal and high-rainfall regions develop severe surface corrosion that penetrates into the wheel bearing bore and brake caliper mounting faces. Severe rust swells the bore, causing the wheel bearing outer race to spin in the housing (spun bearing), which cannot be corrected by a bearing replacement alone — the knuckle itself must be replaced. The brake caliper slide bolt threads also corrode into the knuckle bosses, requiring heat and extraction, and seized ABS reluctor ring mounting faces complicate brake disc replacement.

Symptoms to notice

  • Wheel bearing replacement does not resolve the wheel noise — bearing spins or is loose immediately after pressing in
  • Brake caliper slide bolts seize in the knuckle threads and shear on removal
  • Visible heavy orange rust and flaking scale on the front hub carriers visible from behind the wheel
  • ABS warning light appearing in conjunction with front wheel bearing noise on high-mileage coastal vehicles

What to check

Attempt to thread a caliper bolt by hand — resistance or cross-threading indicates corroded threads. Look for a shiny ring on the knuckle bore face next to the wheel bearing, which indicates the outer race has been spinning (spun bearing). Check the ABS ring seat for rust lift. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the wheel removed, inspect the hub carrier casting for deep pitting, flaking rust, or orange swelling around the wheel bearing outer bore and the two brake caliper slide bolt bosses.

Where to look: Front strut hub carriers (steering knuckles) on both sides, behind the front wheels

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the car spent time near the coast or on roads that are regularly salted or heavily wet?”
  • “Have the front wheel bearings been replaced, and did the replacement resolve the noise?”

03Front wheel bearing failure

Spin hub by hand and feel for grinding.petrol2011–2016Suspension
CommonSuspension $350–$750 to fix

Does not apply

GP/GJ Impreza front wheel bearings have a documented pattern of premature failure, typically appearing in the 80,000–140,000 km range. The front bearing design on this platform is not as robust as earlier generations. AWD torque loads through the front hubs under hard cornering and acceleration accelerate wear. Failure often presents as a directional hum that changes character when cornering. Left too long, a failed front bearing affects steering, braking stability, and ABS sensor function.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or droning from front, speed-dependent
  • Noise varies when steering slightly left or right at highway speed
  • Vibration through steering wheel at speed
  • ABS light triggered by faulty wheel speed sensor embedded in bearing

What to check

Spin hub by hand and feel for grinding. On a test drive at 80–100 km/h, gently steer left and right to load one bearing then the other — a bad bearing will become quieter when the car corners away from it. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist with wheel off the ground, grasp hub at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and check for play or roughness.

Where to look: Front hub assemblies behind brake disc, left and right front corners

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front wheel bearings been replaced?”
  • “Any humming noise from the front at highway speed?”
  • “Has the ABS light ever come on?”

04Front Wheel Bearing Failure Under AWD Cornering Loads

Spin the wheel by hand and listen for a rough grinding or rumbling sensation.petrol2000–2007SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Fluid leaks2

01CVT Fluid Cooler Line and Filter Housing Seepage

Check the ground under the parked vehicle for any reddish fluid spots.petrol2016–2023Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $400–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

The TR580 Lineartronic CVT on GK/GT Impreza models has documented fluid seepage from the external cooler lines (rubber-to-metal crimp joints) and the CVT filter housing o-ring on higher-mileage or aged units. CVT fluid is a thin, reddish oil and the seeps are often subtle but visible as pink-red staining on the underside of the transmission tunnel and subframe. Loss of CVT fluid is serious as the TR580 is highly sensitive to fluid level; even slight underfilling accelerates belt and pulley wear and can lead to catastrophic unit failure.

Symptoms to notice

  • Pink or red fluid drips or staining on underside of transmission tunnel or subframe
  • Reddish fluid spots on garage floor or driveway under the vehicle centre
  • CVT fluid level below minimum on dipstick or warm-fill check
  • CVT shudder or slip worsening due to low fluid level
  • Burning smell from drivetrain after sustained driving if fluid is critically low

What to check

  1. Check the ground under the parked vehicle for any reddish fluid spots.
  2. Confirm CVT fluid level is correct using the correct warm-fluid check procedure.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist or ramps, inspect the CVT transmission casing, cooler line crimp fittings, and filter housing for pink-red fluid staining or wet patches.

Where to look: CVT transmission underside, cooler line crimp joints, filter housing on transmission casing

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle ever had CVT fluid replaced, topped up, or had any work done on the transmission cooler lines?”
  • “Have you noticed any reddish or pink fluid under the car after it has been parked overnight?”
  • “Has a mechanic or WOF inspector ever flagged a transmission fluid leak on this vehicle?”

02Rear Differential Pinion and Side Seal Oil Leaks

Check both rear axle inboard CV joint boots for gear oil contamination alongside the differential casing.petrol2000–2007Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $220–$550 to fix

Does not apply

The rear differential fitted to GD AWD Imprezas develops oil leaks from the pinion input shaft seal and both rear axle side seals. The pinion seal is a lip-type rubber seal that hardens with heat cycling and begins to weep gear oil past the propeller shaft flange. Side seals deteriorate similarly, allowing gear oil to migrate down the inside of the rear axle shafts and contaminate the rear brake drums or disc assemblies. Neglected leaks cause the rear differential to run low on oil, leading to hypoid gear and bearing damage. NZ conditions with gravel road dust and moisture accelerate lip seal deterioration.

Symptoms to notice

  • A patch of gear oil (dark, thick, distinctive smell) under the rear centre of the vehicle after parking
  • Oily residue visible on the rear differential casing around the pinion flange or axle exits
  • Rear brake fade or contaminated braking due to gear oil reaching the brake discs or drums
  • Rear differential whine or howl indicating low oil level from an advanced leak

What to check

  1. Check both rear axle inboard CV joint boots for gear oil contamination alongside the differential casing.
  2. Inspect the rear brake assemblies for oil contamination which indicates a side seal has been leaking for some time.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, inspect the front face of the rear differential where the propeller shaft flange meets the pinion seal — look for a ring of dark gear oil residue and fresh weeping.

Where to look: Rear differential housing — pinion seal at the front face, side seals at each rear axle exit point

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the rear differential oil last changed, and has any leaking been noticed?”
  • “Have the rear brakes ever been contaminated with oil or required unexpected replacement?”

Subaru Impreza faults in detail

Narrowed to the Subaru Impreza · 2009. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

EJ15 Valve Stem Seal Deterioration and Oil BurningMajor · EngineEJ154 timing belt, tensioner and water pump replacement overdue (interference: yes)Critical · EngineEJ20/EJ25 head gasket weep at 80-120k kmMajor · EngineFB20 Excessive Oil Consumption — Piston Ring Seal DegradationMajor · EngineFront lower arm inner bush failure causing vibrationMajor · SuspensionLineartronic CVT Belt Judder Under Light ThrottleMajor · TransmissionRust in JDM imports — rear arches, sills and underbodyMajor · Body & Rust

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Subaru Impreza’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Subaru models

Subaru Legacy54 documented faultsSubaru Forester50 documented faultsSubaru WRX41 documented faultsSubaru Liberty38 documented faultsSubaru Outback34 documented faultsSubaru STI32 documented faults

Subaru Impreza buyer questions

Is the Subaru Impreza reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 44 documented faults for the Subaru Impreza, the recurring problem areas are engine, cooling, and brakes. A Subaru Impreza with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Subaru Impreza?

We've catalogued 44 known faults for the Subaru Impreza, covering engine, cooling, and brakes. All 44 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Subaru Impreza?

Most single repairs on the Subaru Impreza fall between $450–$2,000 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 44 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Subaru Impreza?

Yes. A Subaru Impreza inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.