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Toyota1992–2007 Critical issues documented

Toyota Mark II JZX100: common faults & what to check

The JZX100 is the Toyota Mark II built 1996–2001. Of the 22 faults documented for the Mark II, 11 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Mark II

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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22

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$450–$2,000

Typical repair

17

Service milestones

You're looking at the JZX100

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 1998 Toyota Mark II is the JZX100 generation (1996 to 2001).

We cannot narrow the engine list to this year, so every engine this model was sold with is offered.

Start your free check on this Toyota Mark II

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Toyota Mark II JZX100Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Mark II came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

Free. The paid plate check is separate, and stays optional.

Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Mark II · 1998

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Mark II before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    With the suspension hanging, inspect the rubber boot on the ball joint for splits, tears, or missing grease.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

    The front lower control arm ball joints on JZX90 and JZX100 Mark II are a standard wear item that sees accelerated deterioration on New Zealand roads due to pot-hole stress and the age of imported examples. The ball joint boot splits with age, allowing grease to escape and water and grit to enter the joint. Once contaminated, the joint wears rapidly. At sufficient wear, the ball joint can separate entirely, causing sudden and complete loss of steering control — this is the single most common reason for WOF failure on these chassis in New Zealand.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking sound from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, potholes, or rough surfaces
    • Loose or vague steering feel, particularly when changing direction at low speed
    • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear on the inner or outer edge
    • Vehicle pulling to one side or requiring frequent steering corrections on straight roads

    Typically $280–$650 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Check fluid level via fill plug.

    See why

    Rear Differential Output Shaft and Pinion Oil Seal Leak

    JZX100 and JZX110 Mark II models commonly develop oil seepage at the rear differential output shaft seals and pinion seal. NZ-import examples often show dried oil residue around the diff housing from decades of neglected seal maintenance. Minor seepage left unattended leads to low fluid, premature bearing wear, and eventual gear howl.

    What you would notice

    • Oil residue or wet patch beneath rear differential housing
    • Gear whine or howling from rear axle under acceleration or deceleration
    • Low differential fluid on fill-plug inspection

    Typically $250–$650 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    With a torch and mirror, inspect the inner wheel arch from underneath for crack propagation into the wheel arch reinforcement.

    See why

    Rear Chassis Stress Cracking at Coilover Conversion Mount Points

    The JZX90 and JZX100 Mark II are popular drift and performance platforms in New Zealand, and a high proportion of imported examples have been fitted with aftermarket coilover suspension kits. The factory rear upper shock mounting points in the boot floor and wheel well area were engineered for the original suspension loads and geometry. Poorly fitted top hats, incorrect spring rates, or extended hard use concentrate stress on the thin sheet metal around these mounts, causing cracking that can propagate into structural chassis rails. This fault is frequently concealed under boot liner or underbody coating at the time of sale.

    What you would notice

    • Creaking or groaning from the rear of the vehicle under load, over bumps, or during hard cornering
    • Visible cracking or distortion of the sheet metal around the rear upper shock mounting bolts when the boot liner is removed
    • Rear suspension geometry that appears uneven or one side sitting lower than the other despite matching spring rates
    • Handling instability or unpredictable rear-end behaviour under spirited driving

    Typically $600–$2,500 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Turn wheel to full lock in both directions and observe for active weeping.

    See why

    Power Steering Rack Inner Seal Leak

    The hydraulic power steering rack on JZX-platform Mark II develops inner tie rod seal and rack end seal weeping with age, particularly on high-mileage imports. Fluid loss leads to heavier steering and pump whine as the reservoir runs low. Rack reseal or replacement is the only lasting fix; power steering fluid top-ups are a temporary measure that many sellers rely on before sale.

    What you would notice

    • Power steering fluid pooling beneath rack centre or gaiter ends
    • Groaning or whining from steering pump on low-speed manoeuvring or full lock
    • Steering noticeably heavier than expected, especially when cold
    • Low power steering fluid reservoir level

    Typically $400–$1,100 to put right.

Toyota Mark II service schedule

What falls due, and at what distance, for each generation of the Toyota Mark II. These are the model’s intervals — the car’s own service book is the only thing that can tell you what has actually been done to it.

Eighth Generation (X100 Facelift) · 2000–2000 · 2.0L (1G-FE) - 2.0 Beams

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Renewing the original suspension bushes about now tightens up the steering feel.

  2. 200,000 km

    The alternator and starter motor often want a professional assessment or a light service here.

Eighth Generation (X100 Facelift) · 2000–2000 · 2.5L (1JZ-GTE) - 2.5 Tourer V Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The timing belt is due here, so it is worth confirming it has been replaced.

  2. 150,000 km

    Look closely at the radiator and cooling system parts so heat is being shed properly.

  3. 200,000 km

    Check the suspension parts, ball joints and tie rods for any play.

Eighth Generation (X100 Facelift) · 2000–2000 · 2.5L (1JZ-GE) - 2.5 Grande

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Time for a thorough cooling system overhaul, paying attention to the radiator neck and the ageing coolant hoses.

  2. 200,000 km

    Suspension bushings and ball joints can wear here, and the smooth ride this car is known for suffers.

  3. 250,000 km

    Check the alternator and starter motor so the charging system keeps working steadily.

Ninth Generation (X110) · 2000–2004 · 2.0L (1G-FE) - 2.0 Grande

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 150,000 km

    Make sure the timing belt and water pump have been dealt with, as the 1G-FE engine depends on them.

  2. 200,000 km

    Check the suspension struts and steering rack mounts to keep the ride quality Toyota is known for.

  3. 250,000 km

    Flush the cooling system and consider new rubber hoses to save yourself trouble later.

Ninth Generation (X110) · 2000–2004 · 2.5L (1JZ-FSE) - 2.5 Grande/iR-S D-4

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The second major service falls here, which can mean new spark plugs and a thorough cooling system check.

  2. 150,000 km

    Original suspension parts such as struts and bushings often show their age and need replacing to handle properly.

  3. 200,000 km

    An important milestone where a full check of the fuel system parts and a deep clean of the intake manifold may be needed.

Ninth Generation (X110) · 2000–2004 · 2.5L (1JZ-GTE) - 2.5 iR-V Turbo

Petrol

Due by distance

  1. 100,000 km

    The first major timing belt service should already be done by here, with the water pump and tensioner replaced at the same time.

  2. 150,000 km

    Check the turbocharger's oil feed lines and the state of the cooling system parts.

  3. 200,000 km

    Suspension bushings and ball joints can start wearing here, which takes the crispness out of the handling.

See all 11 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 3 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical3

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

With the suspension hanging, inspect the rubber boot on the ball joint for splits, tears, or missing grease.1992–2001Suspension
Very commonSuspension $280–$650 to fix

The front lower control arm ball joints on JZX90 and JZX100 Mark II are a standard wear item that sees accelerated deterioration on New Zealand roads due to pot-hole stress and the age of imported examples. The ball joint boot splits with age, allowing grease to escape and water and grit to enter the joint. Once contaminated, the joint wears rapidly. At sufficient wear, the ball joint can separate entirely, causing sudden and complete loss of steering control — this is the single most common reason for WOF failure on these chassis in New Zealand.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or knocking sound from the front suspension when traversing speed bumps, potholes, or rough surfaces
  • Loose or vague steering feel, particularly when changing direction at low speed
  • Uneven or accelerated front tyre wear on the inner or outer edge
  • Vehicle pulling to one side or requiring frequent steering corrections on straight roads

What to check

With the suspension hanging, inspect the rubber boot on the ball joint for splits, tears, or missing grease. Also grasp the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and push-pull to check for horizontal play, which indicates tie rod ends rather than ball joints. Both sides should be checked and compared. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, grasp the front wheel firmly at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and apply firm upward and downward load while watching the ball joint — any visible vertical movement or clunking indicates a worn joint.

Where to look: Front lower control arm, one ball joint per side connecting the arm to the front upright/hub assembly

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle passed its most recent WOF with no suspension advisories noted?”
  • “Have the front ball joints been replaced, and if so at what mileage?”
  • “Is there any knocking or clunking from the front suspension when going over rough ground?”

02Rear Chassis Stress Cracking at Coilover Conversion Mount Points

With a torch and mirror, inspect the inner wheel arch from underneath for crack propagation into the wheel arch reinforcement.1992–2001Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $600–$2,500 to fix

The JZX90 and JZX100 Mark II are popular drift and performance platforms in New Zealand, and a high proportion of imported examples have been fitted with aftermarket coilover suspension kits. The factory rear upper shock mounting points in the boot floor and wheel well area were engineered for the original suspension loads and geometry. Poorly fitted top hats, incorrect spring rates, or extended hard use concentrate stress on the thin sheet metal around these mounts, causing cracking that can propagate into structural chassis rails. This fault is frequently concealed under boot liner or underbody coating at the time of sale.

Symptoms to notice

  • Creaking or groaning from the rear of the vehicle under load, over bumps, or during hard cornering
  • Visible cracking or distortion of the sheet metal around the rear upper shock mounting bolts when the boot liner is removed
  • Rear suspension geometry that appears uneven or one side sitting lower than the other despite matching spring rates
  • Handling instability or unpredictable rear-end behaviour under spirited driving

What to check

With a torch and mirror, inspect the inner wheel arch from underneath for crack propagation into the wheel arch reinforcement. Bounce the rear of the vehicle firmly and listen for structural creaking or groaning. If coilovers are fitted, check that the top hat plates are correctly sized and properly welded reinforcement plates have been added to the chassis. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove all boot liner, carpet, and spare wheel to expose the rear shock tower tops — look for cracking in the sheet metal around the mounting bolt holes, distortion of the metal, or signs of prior welding repair.

Where to look: Rear upper shock absorber mounting points on the boot floor and inner wheel arch, accessible from inside the boot and from underneath

Parts involved: Chassis and structural rust.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the suspension been modified from factory, and have coilovers been fitted?”
  • “Can I remove the boot liner and inspect the rear shock tower mounting points before purchase?”
  • “Has any chassis repair or reinforcement welding been carried out on this vehicle?”

03TEMS Suspension Actuator Failure and Ride Height Error

petrol1996–2000Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$2,800 to fix

The JZX100 Mark II Tourer V is fitted with Toyota Electronically Modulated Suspension (TEMS), which uses electric actuators at each corner to switch damper firmness between Sport and Normal modes. The actuator motor assemblies are prone to internal motor failure and seized rotary valves after more than 15–20 years of service. A failed actuator causes that corner to default to its hard stop damping mode, resulting in noticeably uneven ride quality — one corner feeling significantly firmer than the others. The TEMS warning light illuminates and the system cannot complete its self-test, and replacement OEM actuators are scarce, often requiring second-hand units or conversion to non-TEMS aftermarket coilovers.

Symptoms to notice

  • TEMS warning indicator illuminated on instrument cluster
  • Noticeably harsher or stiffer ride at one corner versus others
  • Clunking sound when TEMS mode is switched between Normal and Sport
  • Suspension does not respond to Sport/Normal button changes
  • Uneven body movement over bumps from side to side

What to check

Press the TEMS Sport/Normal button while stationary and listen for the faint clicking response from each damper actuator — absence of clicking at one or more corners indicates actuator failure. Bounce each corner and compare damping resistance — significant variation indicates a corner stuck at hard or soft setting. If a workshop inspection is possible: Check for the TEMS fault code using a compatible Toyota diagnostic scanner (OBD-I protocol on JZX100).

Where to look: Individual suspension damper actuator units — mounted at the top of each shock absorber, all four corners

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the TEMS warning light come on, and does the suspension respond correctly to Sport/Normal switching?”
  • “Has the TEMS system been inspected or any actuators replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle been converted to aftermarket suspension, bypassing TEMS?”
  • “Is the ride noticeably uneven between the left and right sides?”
Fluid leaks3

04Rear Differential Output Shaft and Pinion Oil Seal Leak

Check fluid level via fill plug.petrol1996–2004Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $250–$650 to fix

JZX100 and JZX110 Mark II models commonly develop oil seepage at the rear differential output shaft seals and pinion seal. NZ-import examples often show dried oil residue around the diff housing from decades of neglected seal maintenance. Minor seepage left unattended leads to low fluid, premature bearing wear, and eventual gear howl.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil residue or wet patch beneath rear differential housing
  • Gear whine or howling from rear axle under acceleration or deceleration
  • Low differential fluid on fill-plug inspection

What to check

Check fluid level via fill plug. Look for fresh oil mixed with road grime on the underside of the diff case. On LSD-equipped models, differentiate between seeping seals and the breather overflow. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect the differential housing, both output shaft flanges, and the front pinion seal for oil seepage.

Where to look: Rear differential: left and right output shaft seals, and front pinion seal

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear differential fluid been changed recently?”
  • “Any whining or howling from the rear under load?”
  • “Has the diff been rebuilt or resealed?”

05Power Steering Rack Inner Seal Leak

Turn wheel to full lock in both directions and observe for active weeping.petrol1992–2004Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $400–$1,100 to fix

The hydraulic power steering rack on JZX-platform Mark II develops inner tie rod seal and rack end seal weeping with age, particularly on high-mileage imports. Fluid loss leads to heavier steering and pump whine as the reservoir runs low. Rack reseal or replacement is the only lasting fix; power steering fluid top-ups are a temporary measure that many sellers rely on before sale.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid pooling beneath rack centre or gaiter ends
  • Groaning or whining from steering pump on low-speed manoeuvring or full lock
  • Steering noticeably heavier than expected, especially when cold
  • Low power steering fluid reservoir level

What to check

  1. Turn wheel to full lock in both directions and observe for active weeping.
  2. Check reservoir level; evidence of recent top-up without explanation is a red flag.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: On a hoist, inspect the steering rack body and gaiter ends for wet residue or dried fluid tracks.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted across the front subframe behind the engine

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid been topped up recently?”
  • “Any groaning or stiffness in the steering, especially at full lock?”
  • “Has the steering rack been replaced or resealed?”

06Power Steering Pump Seal and Hose Leak

1992–2001Fluid Leaks
CommonFluid Leaks $220–$950 to fix

The rack-and-pinion power steering system on JZX90 and JZX100 Mark II models uses an engine-driven vane pump with rubber shaft seals and high-pressure hose connections that deteriorate with age and heat cycling. Seals harden and crack after 25–30 years, allowing power steering fluid to weep from the pump body, the high-pressure hose banjo fitting, or the return line. Fluid loss is typically slow, but if left unattended the reservoir empties and the pump runs dry, causing rapid bearing and vane wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Power steering fluid reservoir level dropping and requiring periodic top-up
  • Oily staining or wet residue visible on or below the power steering pump in the engine bay
  • High-pitched whine or squeal from the pump when the steering is turned to full lock in either direction
  • Slight stiffening of the steering feel at low speed if the reservoir has run partially dry

What to check

  1. Inspect the power steering pump body and the area directly below it for oily residue, wet staining, or dried power steering fluid (it has a distinctive slightly sweet smell).
  2. Check the high-pressure hose banjo fitting at the pump outlet and the return hose clamp connections for dampness.
  3. Check the fluid reservoir level — it should be at the MAX mark when cold.
  4. On full lock in each direction, listen for a high-pitched whine that could indicate low fluid or early pump wear.
  5. Inspect the steering rack boots at each end for any fluid accumulation inside.

Where to look: Power steering pump mounted on the driver's side of the engine, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley; high-pressure hose running to the rack below

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the power steering fluid level been dropping, and has fluid been added recently?”
  • “Is there any oily residue or staining in the engine bay near the power steering pump?”
  • “Does the steering produce any whining noise when turning to full lock?”
Depends on the exact engine — 5 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling5

011JZ-GTE Timing Belt Failure and Turbo Oil Feed Seal Leak

Remove timing cover inspection plug and check belt condition, tension, and idler pulley play.petrol1992–2004Engine
CommonEngine $900–$2,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 1JZ-GTE is an interference engine; belt failure causes piston-to-valve contact and catastrophic engine damage. The turbo oil return line O-ring and banjo bolt seals degrade with age and heat cycles, causing oil to pool in the turbo housing and burn at startup. Both faults are age-related and the majority of NZ-import JZX90/100 examples have no documented belt replacement history.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil smoke at cold startup that clears after warming
  • Oil residue around turbo inlet and return hose
  • Engine ticking or rattling from timing cover area
  • No documented service history for belt replacement

What to check

  1. Remove timing cover inspection plug and check belt condition, tension, and idler pulley play.
  2. Inspect turbo oil return banjo fittings and feed line for seepage.
  3. Request documented service history with belt replacement date and mileage.
  4. On any example above 100,000 km without receipts, assume belt is due.

Where to look: Front of engine under plastic cover (timing belt); turbo oil feed and return lines on right side of engine bay

Parts involved: Timing belt, Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced and do you have receipts?”
  • “Has any oil smoke been noticed on cold start?”
  • “Has the turbo oil return line or banjo fittings been replaced?”

02Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Bearing Collapse

Spin the tensioner and idler pulleys by hand — any roughness, grinding, or play indicates bearing wear.petrol1996–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

031JZ-GTE Turbo Oil Return Line Cracking and Oil Burning

petrol1996–2001EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04A341E/A340E solenoid wear & clutch pack slip

Check ATF colour, level, and smell on dipstick.petrol1996–2001TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder

Test drive the vehicle on an open road at steady speeds between 60–90 km/h with very light throttle applied — replicate cruise conditions.1992–2001TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Toyota Mark II engines and years11 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling6

011JZ-GE Timing Belt Failure on Neglected Examples

Check belt tension with light finger pressure; a correctly tensioned belt should not deflect more than 10–15 mm.petrol1992–1996EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02JZX90 Head Gasket Seepage on High-Mileage Engines

Pull the dipstick and check for the same contamination, and for a raised oil level suggesting coolant ingestion.petrol1992–1996Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,300–$2,800 to fix

Does not apply

JZX90 Mark II 1JZ-GE engines with odometer readings above 180,000 km — common on examples that have been re-complied in New Zealand after accumulated Japanese mileage — exhibit coolant seepage past the head gasket, particularly at the front and rear corners of the cylinder head. The failure typically begins as slow weeping rather than catastrophic breach, making it easy to miss at a casual inspection. Improper past overheats from cooling system neglect accelerate head gasket deterioration.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Coolant reservoir level dropping repeatedly without any visible external leak under the vehicle
  • White or sweet-smelling exhaust smoke on cold starts that clears once the engine reaches operating temperature
  • Creamy or milky contamination visible on the oil dipstick or inside the oil filler cap
  • Cooling system pressure drop detected during a pressure hold test

What to check

  1. Pull the dipstick and check for the same contamination, and for a raised oil level suggesting coolant ingestion.
  2. Inspect around the cylinder head perimeter for external coolant staining or dried mineral deposits.
  3. Request a block tester (combustion gas) check of the coolant reservoir for exhaust gases dissolving into the coolant.
  4. Check whether the coolant level drops after a 20-minute drive.
  5. Remove the oil filler cap and inspect the underside for cream-coloured or mayonnaise-like residue indicating coolant mixing with oil.

Where to look: Cylinder head mating surface at the top of the engine block, particularly at front and rear corners visible from the engine bay

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the coolant level ever needed topping up, and if so how frequently?”
  • “Has the engine ever overheated or has the temperature gauge ever climbed into the red?”
  • “Is there any record of head gasket replacement or cylinder head skimming in the service history?”

031JZ-GTE turbo oil smoke and abuse/modification history on the turbo cars

Do a cold start and watch for blue smoke, then a full-throttle pull listening for detonation and watching boost behaviour.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

041JZ-GE timing chain tensioner wear cold start rattle

Start engine cold after an overnight soak and listen from the timing chain cover area for a chain rattle that diminishes as oil pressure builds.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

051JZ-GE VVTi actuator failure P0011 cam timing fault

Scan the ECU for stored fault codes before any other inspection.petrol2000–2007EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

061JZ-GTE intercooler pipe hose clamp boost leak

petrol1992–1996EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior4

01Structural rust in sills, rear arches, floor pans and rear subframe mounts

The X110 Mark II family left the factory with no meaningful rustproofing and most NZ examples are now 20-plus-year Japanese imports.2000–2007Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Collapsed rear suspension arm bushes and cracked/rusted rear subframe mounts

On a hoist, lever-test each rear arm bush (camber, toe/traction and lower arms) for play and check for split or perished rubber.2000–2007SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03JZX90 rear multi-link lower arm bush deterioration

Attempt to move each arm in the plane of its pivot by hand to feel for bush play or slop.petrol1992–1996SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04JZX110 front lower arm inner bush failure steering shimmy

Grip the lower arm and attempt to move it fore and aft by hand to feel for pivot play.petrol2000–2007SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Fluid leaks1

011JZ-GTE turbo oil return banjo bolt crush washer leak

petrol1992–1996Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Toyota Mark II faults in detail

Narrowed to the Toyota Mark II · 1998. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

1JZ-GTE Turbo Oil Return Line Cracking and Oil BurningMajor · EngineA341E/A340E solenoid wear & clutch pack slipMajor · TransmissionAutomatic Transmission Torque Converter Lock-Up ShudderMajor · TransmissionTiming Belt Tensioner Pulley Bearing CollapseCritical · Engine

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Mark II’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Prado64 documented faultsToyota RAV463 documented faultsToyota Hilux59 documented faultsToyota Fortuner21 documented faultsToyota Aqua20 documented faultsToyota Land Cruiser 7020 documented faults

Toyota Mark II buyer questions

Is the Toyota Mark II reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 22 documented faults for the Toyota Mark II, the recurring problem areas are engine, suspension, and transmission. A Toyota Mark II with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Mark II?

We've catalogued 22 known faults for the Toyota Mark II, covering engine, suspension, and transmission. All 22 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Mark II?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Mark II fall between $450–$2,000 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 22 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Mark II?

Yes. A Toyota Mark II inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.