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Mitsubishi1998–2017 Critical issues documented

Mitsubishi Pajero Sport QE: common faults & what to check

The QE is the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport built 2015 onward. It was sold here with the 2.4 turbo-diesel. Of the 15 faults documented for the Pajero Sport, 3 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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15

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$3,000

Typical repair

5

Systems covered

You're looking at the QE · 2.4 turbo-diesel

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2016 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport is the QE generation (2015 to now).

Start your free check on this Mitsubishi Pajero Sport

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Mitsubishi Pajero Sport QE

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Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishi Pajero Sport · 2016

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    Ask the seller for the service history and look for a dealer invoice or service stamp showing recall PRA 2016/15767 was done.

    See why

    Tailgate gas springs can corrode and break recall (QE Pajero Sport, 2016)

    2016 model year QE Pajero Sports were recalled (PRA 2016/15767) because the tailgate gas spring end caps did not have enough anti-corrosion coating. They can rust and break, and the tailgate can drop suddenly on someone. It applies to all engines. The fix was new gas springs at a Mitsubishi dealer.

    What you would notice

    • Tailgate will not stay up
    • Rust on the tailgate strut ends

    Typically $0 to put right.

See all 3 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

01Tailgate gas springs can corrode and break recall (QE Pajero Sport, 2016)

Ask the seller for the service history and look for a dealer invoice or service stamp showing recall PRA 2016/15767 was done.2016Body & Rust
CommonBody & Rust $0 to fix

2016 model year QE Pajero Sports were recalled (PRA 2016/15767) because the tailgate gas spring end caps did not have enough anti-corrosion coating. They can rust and break, and the tailgate can drop suddenly on someone. It applies to all engines. The fix was new gas springs at a Mitsubishi dealer.

Symptoms to notice

  • Tailgate will not stay up
  • Rust on the tailgate strut ends

What to check

Ask the seller for the service history and look for a dealer invoice or service stamp showing recall PRA 2016/15767 was done. Give the VIN to a Mitsubishi dealer and ask them to check for open recalls before paying. Open the tailgate fully and check it stays up on its own; look at the strut ends for rust. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Mitsubishi dealer can confirm from the VIN whether the recall work was completed.

Where to look: Tailgate gas struts

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the tailgate strut recall been done?”
Depends on the exact engine — 2 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

014N15 cylinder head cracking around injector ports / injector seat blow-by

Ask who performed the valve-clearance services and whether new injector seals/washers were fitted each time.diesel2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $800–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 2.4 4N15 in the current Pajero Sport (shared with Triton MQ/MR) has documented cases of the cylinder head cracking around the injector bores - the walls are thin, and carbon-stuck injectors that are forced out during the scheduled valve-clearance services (which require injector removal roughly every 40,000 km) can crack the head or leave injectors seating badly. Poor seating lets combustion gas blow past (chuffing noise, carbon 'chimneying' around the injector), and a cracked head means head replacement. Choose a vehicle whose injector work was done by people who knew this engine.

A removed six-cylinder diesel engine cylinder head on cardboard, valve-gear side facing up.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A six-cylinder diesel head off the engine, valve-gear side up. Cracks run between the valve seats on the face beneath.

Ll1324 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Chuffing/ticking noise from the top of the engine (combustion gas escaping)
  • Black carbon build-up around the base of an injector
  • Coolant loss or white smoke if the head is cracked
  • Rough running after an injector or valve-clearance service

What to check

Ask who performed the valve-clearance services and whether new injector seals/washers were fitted each time. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the plastic engine cover (ask permission) and look for black sooty build-up around the injectors and listen for a rhythmic chuff at idle.

Where to look: Cylinder head, injector bores under the top engine cover

Parts involved: Cylinder head, Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the valve clearances been done on schedule, and by whom?”
  • “Were the injectors removed cleanly and resealed with new washers?”
  • “Any history of coolant loss or head repairs?”

028-speed automatic shudder/missing in top gears (QE/QF)

Test drive at open-road speed in top gear at light throttle for several minutes, including gentle uphill grades.diesel2015 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $400–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Some QE Pajero Sport owners report the 8-speed automatic shuddering or 'missing' at highway speeds in 6th, 7th and 8th gears - typically at light throttle around 90-110 km/h - with the symptom disappearing when 5th is manually selected. Causes reported range from torque converter lock-up shudder to software calibration, and Mitsubishi dealers have addressed cases with fluid changes and TCU updates. It is not universal, but it is exactly the kind of fault a short suburban test drive will never reveal, so get the vehicle to open-road speed before buying.

Symptoms to notice

  • Shudder or vibration at 90-110 km/h under light throttle
  • Feels like driving over rumble strips in top gears
  • Symptom disappears when manually holding a lower gear

What to check

  1. Test drive at open-road speed in top gear at light throttle for several minutes, including gentle uphill grades.
  2. If you feel a fine shudder, try manually selecting 5th - if it vanishes, suspect converter lock-up shudder.
  3. Ask whether transmission fluid has been changed and any TCU updates applied.

Where to look: Automatic transmission and torque converter, under the centre of the vehicle

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Any transmission shudder at highway speed?”
  • “Has the transmission fluid been serviced and software updated?”
Other Mitsubishi Pajero Sport engines and years12 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling10

01Coolant loss, overheating and head gasket blow-by, service campaign 020116 (2.5 4D56 diesel, built before March 2014)

diesel2009–2014EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

024M40 2.8 turbo diesel cracked cylinder head (linked to overheating and timing chain stretch)

Ask for the engine to be completely cold when you arrive.diesel1998–2003EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

034D56 balance shaft belt shredding and taking the timing belt with it

The 4D56 runs a second, inner toothed belt for the balance shafts, sitting behind the main timing belt.diesel2009–2015Engine
CommonEngine $900–$6,500 to fix

Does not apply

The 4D56 runs a second, inner toothed belt for the balance shafts, sitting behind the main timing belt. It is a consumable that has to be replaced at the same time as the timing belt, and it is routinely left in place to save an hour of labour. When it lets go it does not just stop the balance shafts: the shredded belt can wrap itself around the crankshaft pulley and jump or destroy the timing belt right next to it. The 4D56 is an interference engine, so a timing belt that jumps teeth or breaks lets the pistons hit the valves, and what should have been a belt service becomes a cylinder head rebuild. The two usual triggers are oil from a weeping front crankshaft seal soaking the belts, and incorrect tension at the last belt change - both Gates and Dayco publish Australian technical bulletins on getting the 4D56 procedure exactly right for precisely this reason.

Symptoms to notice

  • Last timing belt invoice with no balance shaft belt listed on it
  • A rumble or vibration through the floor and pedals that was not there before, worst at idle and low revs
  • Oil weeping or oily dust around the crankshaft pulley and the bottom of the timing cover
  • Rattle, buzz or squeal from the front of the engine on start-up
  • Timing belt interval passed on kilometres or years with no receipt to show for it

What to check

  1. Ask for the invoice for the last timing belt change rather than just a stamp in the book, and read the parts list - you want to see the balance shaft belt, both tensioners, the idler and the crankshaft front oil seal on it, not just a timing belt.
  2. Ask when it was done, at what kilometres, and by whom, then work out how far and how long it has run since.
  3. Open the bonnet and shine your phone torch down the front of the engine behind the drive belts, looking for wet oil, oily dust or drips around the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing cover, because oil soaking into these belts kills them early.
  4. Start the engine and listen at the front for a new rumble, buzz or squeal, and rest your hand on the gear lever at idle to feel for a vibration that another example of the same car does not have.
  5. If the seller cannot produce a belt invoice, price a full belt job into your offer, because on an interference engine guessing is the expensive option.

Where to look: Behind the plastic timing cover at the front of the engine on the passenger side of the engine bay - the balance shaft belt is the inner belt, tucked behind the main timing belt. What you can actually see is the paperwork and any oil around the crankshaft pulley.

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last changed, and does the invoice list the balance shaft belt as well?”
  • “Were the tensioners, idler and crankshaft front seal replaced at the same time?”
  • “Who did the belt job - a Mitsubishi dealer, a diesel specialist, or a general workshop?”
  • “Is there any oil leak from the front of the engine?”

04Front propeller shaft weld failure, safety recall PRA 2013/13844 (PB Challenger 4WD)

Ask the seller for proof the front propeller shaft recall was done or that the VIN was checked and is not affected.2011–2012Transmission
RareTransmission $0–$2,500 to fix

Does not apply

A batch of 2011 to 2012 PB Challenger and Triton 4WDs had front propeller shafts made before 25 November 2011 with poor welds. If the weld fails the front shaft can break, damage the fuel pipe and cause a fuel leak and fire risk, and acceleration or braking can be affected. The Australian recall (PRA 2013/13844) covered 584 vehicles across both models and the fix is free at a Mitsubishi dealer.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk or vibration from under the front of the car in 4WD
  • Smell of diesel or fuel under the car
  • Knocking when taking off or slowing down

What to check

Ask the seller for proof the front propeller shaft recall was done or that the VIN was checked and is not affected. Smell around the underside for fuel and look under the front with a torch for wet patches or fresh fuel. On the test drive, select 4WD on a loose surface if possible and listen for clunks or vibration from the front. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Mitsubishi dealer can check the VIN against the recall and inspect the front shaft welds on a hoist.

Where to look: Under the car, front propeller shaft between the transfer case and the front differential, near the fuel pipe

Ask the seller

  • “Has the front propeller shaft recall been checked or completed?”
  • “Has the car ever leaked fuel or made a clunk in 4WD?”

05DPF soot blockage on short-trip driven vehicles (2.4 4N15)

Get a scan showing soot load and distance between regenerations before purchase.diesel2017 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

066G72 3.0 V6 worn valve stem seals and guides - blue smoke after idling

Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive and have someone start it while you stand behind the car and watch the exhaust for a blue puff.petrol1998–2008EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

074D56 common-rail injector failure - black smoke, knock and misfires (Challenger PB/PC)

Cold-start it yourself; listen for knock and watch the exhaust under a hard test-drive acceleration.diesel2009–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08Suction control valve on the Denso high-pressure pump — hard hot starting and surging

diesel2015Engine
CommonEngine $400–$1,400 to fix

Does not apply

The 4D56 common-rail diesel uses a Denso fuel system, and the suction control valve is the small electric valve on the inlet side of the high-pressure pump that meters how much fuel gets pressurised. It is a genuine wear item on this engine. As it goes off, rail pressure becomes unstable and the car starts to hunt at idle, surge under light throttle, and crank for a long time before firing — usually worse when the engine is already hot, which is the opposite of what most people expect. The fault code is P0089. The valve itself is not expensive, but the same symptoms can also mean tired injectors, which is a much bigger bill, so it is worth knowing which one you are looking at before you agree a price.

Symptoms to notice

  • Long cranking before it fires, worse when the engine is already hot
  • Idle speed hunting up and down instead of settling
  • Surging or hesitation under light throttle at steady speeds
  • Engine warning light with a fuel pressure fault stored
  • Occasional stall when coming to a stop

What to check

Insist on starting the vehicle from stone cold yourself and count the seconds before it fires, then drive it for twenty minutes, switch it off, leave it for five minutes and start it again — a hot restart that cranks noticeably longer than the cold one is the classic sign. With the engine idling, watch the tachometer needle: it should sit rock steady, not drift up and down by a couple of hundred rpm. On the drive, hold a steady light throttle at around 60 to 80 km/h and feel for a gentle surging or pulsing rather than smooth pull. Ask whether the suction control valve or the injectors have ever been replaced, and ask for the invoices.

Where to look: Suction control valve on the side of the high-pressure fuel pump, at the belt end of the engine

Parts involved: Fuel rail, Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the suction control valve or the fuel pump ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it take longer to start when the engine is hot?”
  • “Have the injectors ever been tested or reconditioned?”

09Super Select 4WD light flashing, front axle will not engage (vacuum solenoids, hoses and front diff actuator)

1998–2008TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10EGR and inlet manifold carbon build-up choking the 4D56 (Challenger)

Check for EGR-related fault codes with a scan.diesel2009–2015Engine
Very commonEngine $400–$1,500 to fix

Does not apply

Like most common-rail diesels of its era, the Challenger's 4D56 recirculates sooty exhaust through the EGR valve, and combined with crankcase oil vapour it forms thick carbon sludge in the inlet manifold. The result is sluggish performance, higher fuel use, rough idle and eventually a sticking EGR valve triggering limp mode. A walnut-blast or manual inlet clean plus an EGR service restores it, and it will recur on a truck that only does short urban trips.

Symptoms to notice

  • Gutless feeling, especially up hills
  • Rough idle and hesitation off boost
  • Check engine light with EGR codes
  • Black soot around the inlet/EGR area

What to check

  1. Check for EGR-related fault codes with a scan.
  2. Test drive up a decent hill and note whether power feels lazy.
  3. Ask whether the inlet manifold has ever been cleaned - on a 150,000 km+ 4D56 with no record of it, assume it is due.

Where to look: EGR valve and inlet manifold on top/side of the engine

Parts involved: Intake manifold, EGR valve.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EGR valve or inlet manifold ever been cleaned?”
  • “Does it mostly do short trips or open-road running?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

01Front lower control arm weld failure - 2013 safety recall (PRA 2013/13840)

2011–2012Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $0–$900 to fix

Does not apply

In November 2013 Mitsubishi recalled 20,405 Australian vehicles - 17,540 Tritons and 2,865 Challengers - from the 2011 and 2012 model years built before 11 May 2012. The front suspension lower control arms had been improperly welded, and the recall notice warned that the weld could fail, at which point the vehicle would become unstable and pull sharply to one side of the road. The Challenger campaign is PRA 2013/13840. The repair is free at a Mitsubishi dealer, but a vehicle this old has usually changed hands several times and a good number were never presented, so on a 2011 or 2012 Challenger this has to be confirmed against the VIN rather than assumed. It costs nothing to check and it is the single highest-value phone call you can make about this car.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulling to one side and needing constant steering correction to hold a lane
  • A clunk or a sudden shift felt through the steering when you go over a bump
  • Steering wheel not sitting centred while driving straight
  • Uneven or feathered wear on the front tyres
  • A wheel alignment that will not stay put

What to check

Write down the VIN from the base of the windscreen or the driver's door frame and have a Mitsubishi dealer confirm by VIN whether the 2013 lower control arm recall has been completed - it costs nothing and takes one phone call. Ask the seller for the recall letter or the dealer paperwork showing the work was carried out. On the test drive, find a straight flat road, briefly relax your grip on the steering wheel and see whether it tracks straight or wanders to one side. With the window down, roll slowly over a driveway lip or a speed bump and listen for a clunk from the front. Look at the inner and outer edges of both front tyres for uneven or feathered wear, which suggests the front end has not been right for a while. If a workshop inspection is possible: have a mechanic put it on a hoist and inspect the welds along both front lower control arms, and check the front suspension for play at the same time.

Where to look: The front suspension lower control arms - the large A-shaped arms running from the chassis out to the bottom of each front wheel hub, behind and below the front bumper on each side.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 2013 lower control arm recall been carried out, and is there paperwork?”
  • “Does it pull to one side or need constant steering correction?”
  • “Has the front suspension or either control arm ever been replaced?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment, and did it hold?”
Fluid leaks1

01Rear differential side-shaft oil leak and diff whine (Challenger, shared Pajero design)

On a quiet coasting section of the test drive, listen for rear whine that changes when you lift off versus accelerate.2009–2015Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $300–$3,000 to fix

Does not apply

The Challenger shares Mitsubishi's rear axle design where side-shafts can move slightly outwards on their circlips and let diff oil escape past the seals, spraying the underside. Run dry, the diff howls and eventually fails. Rear diff whine rising with road speed on a Challenger should be treated as bearing or oil-starvation damage, not 'character'. Fixed early it is a seals-and-circlips job; left late it is a diff rebuild or second-hand diff swap.

Symptoms to notice

  • Whine or howl from the rear rising with speed
  • Oil film sprayed on the rear diff and inner wheels
  • Clunk on drive take-up

What to check

On a quiet coasting section of the test drive, listen for rear whine that changes when you lift off versus accelerate. Underneath, check the axle ends and diff housing for oil spray and check the diff oil level if possible.

Where to look: Rear differential and axle shaft flanges

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear diff ever been resealed or rebuilt?”
  • “When was the diff oil last changed and was the level correct?”

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mitsubishi models

Mitsubishi Outlander47 documented faultsMitsubishi Lancer39 documented faultsMitsubishi Pajero39 documented faultsMitsubishi Galant13 documented faultsMitsubishi Challenger12 documented faultsMitsubishi Mirage11 documented faults

Mitsubishi Pajero Sport buyer questions

Is the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 15 documented faults for the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, the recurring problem areas are engine, transmission, and suspension. A Mitsubishi Pajero Sport with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport?

We've catalogued 15 known faults for the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, covering engine, transmission, and suspension. All 15 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport?

Most single repairs on the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport fall between $400–$3,000 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 15 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport?

Yes. A Mitsubishi Pajero Sport inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.