Subaru2011–2023 Critical issues documented

Subaru XV GP: common faults & what to check

The GP is the Subaru XV built 2012–2017. It was sold here with the 2.0 boxer petrol. Of the 19 faults documented for the XV, 12 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$450–$1,600

Typical repair

Service milestones

You're looking at the GP · 2.0 boxer petrol

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Subaru XV, GP (2012–2017) (KickTyres illustration)

2012–2017GP Selected2012–2017GP2.0 boxer petrolPetrolDocumented issues11 knownSee faults & what to checkKickTyres illustration, not a photograph.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Which engine is in it?

2.0 boxer petrol· 2.0 litre petrol

A 2013 Subaru XV is the GP generation (2012 to 2017).

Start your free check on this Subaru XV

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Subaru XV GP

Can't confirm for this car

Subaru XV · 2013

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Subaru XV before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

Serious issue
Inspect the rubber boot on each ball joint for cracking, splitting, or grease contamination on the surrounding components.
See why
Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear
The front suspension of the GP XV uses a MacPherson strut arrangement with a pressed-in or bolt-on ball joint at the lower control arm. These ball joints are subject to high vertical and lateral loads, particularly on the rough or unsealed roads common in New Zealand, and the grease seals can fail prematurely, allowing lubricant to escape and contamination to enter. A worn ball joint allows the front wheel to have excessive angular play relative to the arm, degrading steering precision and tyre wear, and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing sudden loss of vehicle control.
What you would notice
- Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension when traversing bumps, speed humps, or rough surfaces
- Vague or imprecise steering with the vehicle wandering on straight roads
- Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the inner or outer edges of the front tyres
- Grease visible on the lower control arm or hub knuckle area adjacent to the ball joint boot
Typically $350–$900 to put right.
Costly issue
Check for pulling under braking.
See why
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure
Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.
What you would notice
- Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
- One front disc hotter than the other after moderate use
Typically $150–$500 to put right.
Costly issue
Check the rear brake pads and disc surfaces for contamination (oily sheen or discolouration).
See why
Rear Differential Rear Output Shaft Seal Oil Leak
The GP XV uses Subaru's symmetrical all-wheel-drive system with a rear differential integrated into the rear final drive unit. The output shaft seals on each side of the rear differential are subject to heat cycling, contamination, and age-related hardening that causes them to lose their sealing ability, allowing gear oil to weep past the lip seal and onto the brake components or driveshaft. Contaminated rear brake pads and discs are a direct safety consequence, as differential oil on friction material severely reduces braking effectiveness. Early detection allows relatively inexpensive seal replacement, but delayed repair leads to gear oil starvation in the differential and subsequent bearing or gear damage.
What you would notice
- Oily residue or a wet stain on the rear differential casing, inner face of the rear wheel, or driveshaft adjacent to the differential flange
- Reduced rear braking effectiveness or a pulling sensation to one side under braking caused by oil-contaminated pads
- A burnt oil smell from the rear of the vehicle after extended driving as oil contacts the hot exhaust or brake components
- Low differential oil level confirmed when the filler plug is removed during service
Typically $250–$800 to put right.
Common issue
Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking and deformation.
See why
Rear Suspension Multi-Link Bush Collapse
Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and handling imprecision.
What you would notice
- Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces and speed humps
- Imprecise rear handling feel and slight inner rear tyre edge wear
Typically $400–$1,200 to put right.
Worth checking
Any visible lateral movement of the rack relative to the subframe mounts indicates excessive yoke wear or inner tie rod play.
See why
Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Rattle
The GP XV is equipped with a column-assist electric power steering (EPS) system that drives a conventional rack-and-pinion gear through an electric motor and torque sensor. The rack-and-pinion gear itself uses a spring-loaded yoke to maintain contact between the pinion gear and the rack, and the yoke preload can diminish with wear, allowing the rack to develop a small amount of lateral free-play. This manifests as a rattle or knock transmitted directly through the steering column and wheel, typically over small bumps and road texture, as the rack moves slightly against the yoke. In addition, the inner tie rod ball joints at each end of the rack can develop play, producing a similar symptom.
What you would notice
- Rattling or knocking sensation felt through the steering wheel over road texture, cat's-eyes, or rough seal chip surfaces
- The rattle is reduced or eliminated when slight steering pressure is applied to the wheel
- Knocking from the steering column area when driving over speed humps or sharp bumps at low speed
- Vague steering feel on-centre with a small amount of free-play before the steering begins to respond
Typically $150–$2,200 to put right.

A 2013 Subaru XV: what is due, and when

Servicing

Next service

150,000 km

Review the CVT fluid and confirm the cooling system parts are all working as they should.

This car may already have passed it.

Placed by the car’s age, not read from the dash — 89,700–209,300 km after 13 years.

Timing

Our research does not record which this engine uses, and it depends on the engine rather than the model. Check the owner’s manual rather than assume: on a belt-driven engine, an overdue belt is the failure that takes the engine with it.

Behind it

100,000 kmInspect the spark plugs and check what condition the auxiliary drive belts are in.

Ahead of it

200,000 kmHave a qualified technician look over the suspension bushings and steering rack boots for wear.

“Behind it” means the car has driven past that distance, not that the work was done — ask to see the receipts. These are the intervals for the First Generation (GP) · 2.0L (FB20) - 2.0i / 2.0i-S · Petrol; only the car’s own service book says what has actually been done to it.

See all 12 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.

Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical6

01Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Wear

Inspect the rubber boot on each ball joint for cracking, splitting, or grease contamination on the surrounding components.2012–2017Suspension$350–$900

CommonSuspension $350–$900 to fix

The front suspension of the GP XV uses a MacPherson strut arrangement with a pressed-in or bolt-on ball joint at the lower control arm. These ball joints are subject to high vertical and lateral loads, particularly on the rough or unsealed roads common in New Zealand, and the grease seals can fail prematurely, allowing lubricant to escape and contamination to enter. A worn ball joint allows the front wheel to have excessive angular play relative to the arm, degrading steering precision and tyre wear, and in severe cases the joint can separate, causing sudden loss of vehicle control.

Symptoms to notice

Clunking or knocking noise from the front suspension when traversing bumps, speed humps, or rough surfaces
Vague or imprecise steering with the vehicle wandering on straight roads
Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the inner or outer edges of the front tyres
Grease visible on the lower control arm or hub knuckle area adjacent to the ball joint boot

What to check

Inspect the rubber boot on each ball joint for cracking, splitting, or grease contamination on the surrounding components. A worn joint will exhibit a knocking noise over bumps that a new joint eliminates. Any play exceeding manufacturer specification (typically nil perceptible play) requires replacement before the vehicle is used. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle safely raised on a hoist, grasp each front wheel at the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and attempt to rock it vertically — any detectable play indicates ball joint wear.

Where to look: Lower control arm on each front corner, at the pivot point where the arm connects to the front wheel hub/knuckle assembly

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

“When were the front lower ball joints last inspected or replaced, and does the vehicle have a current Warrant of Fitness?”
“Has the car been used regularly on unsealed gravel roads or off-road conditions?”
“Has there been any knocking or clunking noise from the front suspension?”

02CV Joint Boot Cracking and Grease Loss

2012–2017Suspension$180–$750Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

2012–2017Brakes$180–$650

CommonBrakes $180–$650 to fix

The rear brake calipers on the GP XV use a sliding caliper design where the caliper body floats on two steel guide pins coated with a lubricating grease, allowing the caliper to centre itself over the brake rotor as the pads wear. The guide pins are enclosed in rubber boots that deteriorate with age and road exposure, allowing moisture and road salt to displace the grease and initiate corrosion on the pin surface. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from retracting fully after brake application, causing the inboard or outboard pad to remain in constant contact with the rotor. This results in accelerated and uneven pad wear, excessive rotor heat and warping, and reduced fuel economy from the parasitic drag.

Symptoms to notice

One rear wheel becomes noticeably hotter than the other after normal driving, detectable by holding a hand near the wheel without touching it
Accelerated or uneven rear brake pad wear, with the inner pad worn significantly more than the outer or vice versa
Pulling or deviation to one side under light braking with the handbrake applied evenly
A scraping or grinding noise from one rear corner that is present even when not applying the footbrake, indicating constant pad contact with the rotor

What to check

After a drive, carefully approach each rear wheel and feel for excessive heat radiating from the wheel and hub area — a seized caliper will make the disc and hub significantly hotter than the other side. Any stiffness, binding, or inability to slide indicates a seized pin. Compare inner and outer pad thickness — a significant difference confirms the caliper is not releasing evenly. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove each guide pin and inspect for corrosion, pitting, or damaged rubber boots. With the vehicle cool and on a hoist, remove the rear caliper bolts and attempt to slide the caliper body on the guide pins by hand — it should move freely with light finger pressure.

Where to look: Rear brake calipers mounted on the rear axle knuckle at each rear corner, with guide pins running horizontally through the caliper bracket

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

“When were the rear brake pads last replaced, and were the caliper guide pins cleaned, inspected, and regreased at the same time?”
“Has the vehicle ever pulled to one side under braking, or has one rear wheel been noticeably hotter than the other?”
“Does the vehicle have a current Warrant of Fitness, and were there any brake-related advisories on the most recent inspection?”

04Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Check for pulling under braking.2012 onwardBrakes$150–$500

CommonBrakes $150–$500 to fix

Front brake caliper guide pins seize from corrosion causing uneven pad wear.

Symptoms to notice

Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
One front disc hotter than the other after moderate use

What to check

Check for pulling under braking.
Feel for uneven wheel heat.
Inspect guide pins.

Where to look: Front brake calipers

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

“Has the brake caliper guide pin seizure been inspected or repaired?”

05Electric Power Steering Rack Internal Rattle

Any visible lateral movement of the rack relative to the subframe mounts indicates excessive yoke wear or inner tie rod play.2013–2017Suspension$150–$2,200

OccasionalSuspension $150–$2,200 to fix

The GP XV is equipped with a column-assist electric power steering (EPS) system that drives a conventional rack-and-pinion gear through an electric motor and torque sensor. The rack-and-pinion gear itself uses a spring-loaded yoke to maintain contact between the pinion gear and the rack, and the yoke preload can diminish with wear, allowing the rack to develop a small amount of lateral free-play. This manifests as a rattle or knock transmitted directly through the steering column and wheel, typically over small bumps and road texture, as the rack moves slightly against the yoke. In addition, the inner tie rod ball joints at each end of the rack can develop play, producing a similar symptom.

Symptoms to notice

Rattling or knocking sensation felt through the steering wheel over road texture, cat's-eyes, or rough seal chip surfaces
The rattle is reduced or eliminated when slight steering pressure is applied to the wheel
Knocking from the steering column area when driving over speed humps or sharp bumps at low speed
Vague steering feel on-centre with a small amount of free-play before the steering begins to respond

What to check

Any visible lateral movement of the rack relative to the subframe mounts indicates excessive yoke wear or inner tie rod play. Check both inner tie rod ends by grasping each tie rod and attempting to move it laterally and axially — any play beyond a faint amount indicates a worn inner joint. A rattle confined to the steering wheel and column area that disappears when a light load is applied to the wheel is characteristic of yoke preload loss. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist and the steering in the straight-ahead position, have an assistant shake the steering wheel briskly back and forth through a small angle while you observe the rack for movement.

Where to look: Steering rack mounted transversely across the engine bay subframe, connected to the steering column above and tie rods outboard at each end

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

“Has there been any rattling or knocking through the steering wheel, particularly over rough roads or speed humps?”
“Has any steering rack, yoke, or tie rod work been done on the vehicle?”
“Does the steering feel precise and connected, or is there any vagueness or free-play at the straight-ahead position?”

06Rear Suspension Multi-Link Bush Collapse

Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking and deformation.2012 onwardSuspension$400–$1,200

CommonSuspension $400–$1,200 to fix

Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes harden and collapse causing rear knocking and handling imprecision.

Symptoms to notice

Knocking from rear suspension over rough surfaces and speed humps
Imprecise rear handling feel and slight inner rear tyre edge wear

What to check

Inspect rear suspension arm bushes for cracking and deformation.
Push arms with vehicle raised — any movement indicates collapsed bushes.
Check rear tyre wear for inner edge scrub.

Where to look: Rear multi-link suspension arm bushes

Ask the seller

“Has the rear suspension multi-link bush collapse been inspected or repaired?”

Fluid leaks1

07Rear Differential Rear Output Shaft Seal Oil Leak

Check the rear brake pads and disc surfaces for contamination (oily sheen or discolouration).2012–2017Fluid Leaks$250–$800

OccasionalFluid Leaks $250–$800 to fix

The GP XV uses Subaru's symmetrical all-wheel-drive system with a rear differential integrated into the rear final drive unit. The output shaft seals on each side of the rear differential are subject to heat cycling, contamination, and age-related hardening that causes them to lose their sealing ability, allowing gear oil to weep past the lip seal and onto the brake components or driveshaft. Contaminated rear brake pads and discs are a direct safety consequence, as differential oil on friction material severely reduces braking effectiveness. Early detection allows relatively inexpensive seal replacement, but delayed repair leads to gear oil starvation in the differential and subsequent bearing or gear damage.

Symptoms to notice

Oily residue or a wet stain on the rear differential casing, inner face of the rear wheel, or driveshaft adjacent to the differential flange
Reduced rear braking effectiveness or a pulling sensation to one side under braking caused by oil-contaminated pads
A burnt oil smell from the rear of the vehicle after extended driving as oil contacts the hot exhaust or brake components
Low differential oil level confirmed when the filler plug is removed during service

What to check

Check the rear brake pads and disc surfaces for contamination (oily sheen or discolouration). Check the differential fluid level if a filler plug is accessible. Any wet seal requires replacement before continued use, and any oil-contaminated brake pads must be replaced simultaneously. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle on a hoist, inspect both sides of the rear differential output shaft flanges for any oily residue or wet staining on the casing, driveshaft, or inner face of the rear brake assembly.

Where to look: Rear final drive/differential unit mounted under the rear of the vehicle, at the output shaft flanges where the rear driveshafts exit each side of the differential casing

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

“Has the rear differential ever leaked oil or had the output shaft seals replaced?”
“When were the rear brake pads last replaced, and were they replaced due to oil contamination?”
“When was the rear differential fluid last checked or changed?”

Depends on the exact engine — 5 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.

Engine, transmission & cooling4

01FB20 Excessive Engine Oil Consumption from Piston Ring Wear

Check oil level at every fuel stop and measure consumption over a known distance.petrol2012–2017EngineCan't confirm for this car$3,500–$7,500Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02EE20 Diesel DPF Blockage from Urban Use

Check for a DPF warning light on the instrument cluster.diesel2012 onwardEngineCan't confirm for this car$500–$3,000

Very commonEngine $500–$3,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The EE20 2.0 SkyActiv-D diesel XV Diesel Particulate Filter blocks up on vehicles used primarily for short urban trips where exhaust temperatures never sustain the level needed for passive DPF regeneration. A blocked DPF illuminates the DPF warning and eventually causes limp mode.

Symptoms to notice

DPF warning light on the instrument cluster
Power reduction or limp mode as DPF blockage reaches a critical threshold

What to check

Check for a DPF warning light on the instrument cluster.
Scan for P2002 DPF differential pressure codes.
Ask about the owner's typical driving pattern — predominantly short urban trips under 30 minutes are the risk factor.

Where to look: DPF assembly in the exhaust system, underneath the vehicle

Parts involved: Diesel particulate filter.

Ask the seller

“Has the ee20 diesel dpf blockage from been inspected or repaired?”

03FB20 timing chain cold-start rattle

Start engine fully cold and immediately listen for chain rattle from the engine front.petrol2012–2023EngineCan't confirm for this car$700–$1,900Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Lineartronic CVT Belt Judder and Shudder Under Acceleration

petrol2012–2017TransmissionCan't confirm for this car$200–$8,500Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Fluid leaks1

01FB20 head gasket external oil seep at cylinder deck

Check the exhaust manifold heat shield surface and the area around cylinder 2-3 for baked-on oil.petrol2011–2017Fluid LeaksCan't confirm for this car$1,300–$2,600

OccasionalFluid Leaks $1,300–$2,600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The first-generation GP-series XV with the FB20 engine exhibits an external oil seep originating at the head gasket-to-block interface on the exhaust side of the cylinder head, typically between cylinders 2 and 3. Unlike the catastrophic internal coolant-combustion breach seen on the older EJ-series engines, the FB20 failure is predominantly an external oil weep that tracks down the side of the block and accumulates on the exhaust manifold heat shield and underbody. It does not usually cause coolant loss or overheating unless left untreated for an extended period. The seep is accelerated by cooling system pressure cycling and is more prevalent on higher-mileage examples that have not had the cooling system flushed at recommended intervals. Repair requires cylinder head removal, resurfacing, and new multi-layer steel head gasket installation.

Symptoms to notice

Oil residue on exhaust side of engine block below cylinder head
Burning oil smell from engine bay after driving
Oil accumulation on exhaust heat shields
Gradual oil consumption without visible drips beneath car
Faint blue smoke from exhaust when oil contacts hot manifold

What to check

Check the exhaust manifold heat shield surface and the area around cylinder 2-3 for baked-on oil.
Compare oil level at purchase against a week later after normal driving to quantify consumption rate.
If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect the exhaust side of the cylinder block at the head gasket joint line for oil tracking or residue, best viewed from below on a hoist.

Where to look: Cylinder head gasket joint, exhaust side of FB20 engine block, primarily cylinders 2-3

Parts involved: Head gasket.

Ask the seller

“Has the head gasket been replaced or has any oil seep from the cylinder head been noted?”
“Has the cooling system been flushed at the recommended 100,000 km interval?”
“Is the oil level stable between services or does it require topping up?”
“Any history of overheating or high coolant temperature warnings?”

Other Subaru XV engines and years7 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.

Engine, transmission & cooling3

01e-Boxer Integrated Motor Bearing Noise and Whine

hybrid2020–2023EngineDoes not apply$3,500–$8,000

OccasionalEngine $3,500–$8,000 to fix

Does not apply

The e-Boxer variant of the XV (sold in NZ/AU from 2020) integrates a 12.3 kW electric motor directly inside the Lineartronic CVT housing on the front axle. A documented failure mode identified in Japanese domestic market TSBs and confirmed in Australian owner forums involves bearing wear inside the integrated motor unit producing a distinct high-frequency whine or drone under electric-only crawl, regenerative braking, or during the transition between electric and combustion drive at low speed. The motor/generator assembly is not field-serviceable separately and typically requires CVT-motor assembly replacement.

Symptoms to notice

High-pitched whine or drone audible at low speed during electric-only operation, changing pitch with road speed
Tonal noise during regenerative braking deceleration below 40 km/h
Vibration or resonance felt through the floor during EV-mode transitions
Hybrid system warning light or 'Hybrid System Fault' message in advanced cases
Noise absent at higher speeds when combustion engine masks it, making it easy to miss on a fast test drive

What to check

With the vehicle in EV crawl mode (below 40 km/h on a flat surface), listen for a high-pitched whine or drone that changes pitch with vehicle speed rather than engine speed. Engage regenerative braking by lifting off the throttle at low speed and listen for the same tonal noise through the firewall. The noise is distinct from normal CVT belt hiss and is continuous rather than intermittent. Check for any hybrid system warning lights and ask if the dealer has ever inspected the integrated motor.

Where to look: Integrated motor-generator unit inside the Lineartronic CVT housing, forward of the firewall

Ask the seller

“Has the hybrid motor or CVT-motor assembly ever been inspected or replaced under warranty?”
“Is there any whine or drone noise audible when creeping in EV mode in a car park?”
“Has the vehicle ever shown any hybrid system warning lights, even briefly?”

02FB20 Excessive Oil Consumption — Piston Ring and Valve Stem Seal Wear

Check the oil dipstick at the start of inspection and compare with any recent service record entry.petrol2017–2021EngineDoes not apply$2,500–$6,500Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03FB20D Intake Valve Carbon Buildup — Direct Injection Fouling

On a high-mileage example (above 80,000 km), ask whether intake valve cleaning has ever been performed.petrol2017–2023EngineDoes not apply$650–$1,600

CommonEngine $650–$1,600 to fix

Does not apply

The FB20D engine uses Subaru's direct injection system (fuel sprays directly into the cylinder, bypassing the intake valves). Unlike port-injected engines where fuel flow washes the intake valves clean, direct injection means oil vapour from the PCV system coats the intake valve stems and heads with carbon deposits over time. This is a documented and inherent characteristic of all GDI engines. On the FB20D, significant buildup typically manifests between 60,000 and 120,000 km and causes rough idle, misfires, and reduced throttle response. The only effective remediation is mechanical walnut blasting or chemical cleaning of the intake ports with the inlet manifold removed.

Symptoms to notice

Rough idle or misfires on cold start that clear as the engine warms up
Hesitation or stumble during light throttle acceleration, particularly below 3,000 rpm
Reduced fuel economy noted progressively over high mileage
OBD misfire codes (P030X) with no ignition or fuel injector faults present
Visible carbon coke deposits on valve stems and heads when inspected via borescope

What to check

On a high-mileage example (above 80,000 km), ask whether intake valve cleaning has ever been performed. During the test drive, note any hesitation, rough idle, or stumble on cold start that smooths out once warm — a classic carbon deposit symptom. Check whether the air-oil separator or PCV system has ever been serviced. If a workshop inspection is possible: A borescope inspection of the intake port through the inlet manifold will reveal visible carbon coating on valve heads.

Where to look: Intake valves and ports on both cylinder banks of the FB20D engine, accessed by removing the intake manifold

Parts involved: Intake manifold, PCV / oil separator.

Ask the seller

“Has the intake manifold ever been removed for valve cleaning or carbon walnut blasting?”
“Has the vehicle experienced any misfire codes or rough idle that was investigated?”
“What is the current odometer reading, and has the PCV system or air-oil separator ever been replaced?”

Electrical2

01e-Boxer 12V Auxiliary Battery Drain and Hybrid System Non-Start

Ask whether the vehicle has ever failed to start or shown a 'Hybrid System Unavailable' message.hybrid2020–2023ElectricalDoes not apply$280–$900

OccasionalElectrical $280–$900 to fix

Does not apply

The e-Boxer hybrid system in the XV uses a conventional 12V AGM auxiliary battery to initialise the high-voltage hybrid system before the main traction battery can supply power. This 12V battery is smaller than a conventional vehicle's starter battery and is documented to drain rapidly if the vehicle sits unused for more than a few days, or if there is any parasitic draw from the hybrid control modules or infotainment system in sleep mode. A drained 12V battery prevents the hybrid system from powering up entirely, leaving the vehicle unable to start even though the high-voltage traction battery may be fully charged. Subaru issued guidance on this pattern and the 12V battery is considered a higher-wear component on the e-Boxer.

Symptoms to notice

Vehicle fails to start with 'Hybrid System Malfunction' or 'Power System Fault' warning after sitting unused
Infotainment and instrument cluster powering up but engine and hybrid drive refusing to engage
Repeated need to jump-start or recharge the 12V battery
Multiple hybrid warning lights appearing simultaneously, clearing once 12V is recharged
Battery drain occurring faster than on a conventional vehicle when parked for several days

What to check

Ask whether the vehicle has ever failed to start or shown a 'Hybrid System Unavailable' message.
Check for parasitic draw by asking if the vehicle has sat unused for a week and started normally afterward.
Inspect the battery terminals for corrosion.
Check the age of the 12V battery against the service record — replacement interval in hybrid use is typically 3-4 years.
If a workshop inspection is possible: Test the 12V auxiliary battery voltage with a multimeter or conductance tester — it should read 12.6V or above at rest.

Where to look: 12V AGM auxiliary battery, located in the engine bay or under the boot floor depending on build variant

Parts involved: 12V battery.

Ask the seller

“Has the vehicle ever failed to start or shown hybrid system warning lights after sitting for several days?”
“When was the 12V auxiliary battery last tested or replaced?”
“Has any dealer performed a parasitic drain test on the hybrid electrical system?”

02EyeSight Stereo Camera Recalibration Required After Windscreen Replacement

In the instrument cluster or MFD, check for any EyeSight warning icons (camera with an exclamation mark).2017–2023ElectricalDoes not apply$450–$850Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Body, brakes, suspension & interior2

01Electric power steering rack rattle on cold start

In cold conditions, start engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary — listen and feel for clunks or catches.petrol2017–2023SuspensionDoes not apply$900–$3,200

OccasionalSuspension $900–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The GT-generation XV (2017–2023) uses an electric power steering rack that has a documented rattle or knock noise on cold start and when driving over sharp bumps at low temperatures. The rack mounting bushes and internal steering rack components produce noise before the EPS system reaches operating temperature. In some cases the noise is structural — the steering column universal joint develops play. This is distinct from NVH and represents a documented mechanical fault with the EPS rack assembly and associated mountings.

Symptoms to notice

Clunking or rattling from steering rack area on cold start when turning wheel
Knock or thud over sharp bumps in cold weather that disappears when warm
Slight free-play or notchiness in steering at low speeds when cold
EPS warning light in some cases

What to check

In cold conditions, start engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary — listen and feel for clunks or catches. Drive over a sharp road imperfection and feel for steering rack movement. Have the steering column universal joint checked for play by a technician.

Where to look: Electric power steering rack mounted on front subframe; steering column universal joint below dashboard

Parts involved: Steering rack.

Ask the seller

“Any clunking from the steering when cold or over sharp bumps?”
“Has the EPS warning light ever appeared?”
“Has the steering rack or column joint been inspected?”

02Front lower arm rear bush failure - highway speed shimmy

Inspect the rear inboard bush for cracking, splitting, or offset movement of the inner sleeve.2017 onwardSuspensionDoes not apply$450–$1,100Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Subaru XV faults in detail

Narrowed to the Subaru XV · 2013. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

CV Joint Boot Cracking and Grease LossMajor · Suspension FB20 Excessive Engine Oil Consumption from Piston Ring WearMajor · Engine FB20 timing chain cold-start rattleMajor · Engine Lineartronic CVT Belt Judder and Shudder Under AccelerationMajor · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Subaru XV’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Subaru models

Subaru Legacy54 documented faults Subaru Forester50 documented faults Subaru Impreza44 documented faults Subaru Levorg13 documented faults Subaru Tribeca12 documented faults Subaru Stella10 documented faults

Subaru XV buyer questions

Is the Subaru XV reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 19 documented faults for the Subaru XV, the recurring problem areas are suspension, transmission, and engine. A Subaru XV with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Subaru XV?

We've catalogued 19 known faults for the Subaru XV, covering suspension, transmission, and engine. All 19 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Subaru XV?

Most single repairs on the Subaru XV fall between $450–$1,600 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 19 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Subaru XV?

Yes. A Subaru XV inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.