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Toyota1990–2024 Critical issues documented

Toyota Land Cruiser 70 VDJ79: common faults & what to check

The VDJ79 is the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 built 2007 onward. It was sold here with the 2.8 turbo-diesel, 4.2 diesel, and 4.5 V8 turbo-diesel. Of the 20 faults documented for the Land Cruiser 70, 16 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Toyota Land Cruiser 70

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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20

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$700–$4,500

Typical repair

8

Systems covered

You're looking at the VDJ79

3 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser 70 is the VDJ79 generation (2007 to now).

Start your free check on this Toyota Land Cruiser 70

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Toyota Land Cruiser 70 VDJ79Engine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Land Cruiser 70 came with 3, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Toyota Land Cruiser 70 · 2008

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Toyota Land Cruiser 70 before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Stand back and check the truck sits level unladen - rear sag is obvious.

    See why

    Rear leaf spring sag and chassis cracking at the spring hanger

    Factory rear leaf springs on 76/78/79 models sag with sustained heavy loading, dropping ride height and travel, and the more serious follow-on is chassis cracking at the weld where the rear spring hanger meets the rail - a known failure on heavily loaded touring and farm utes, driven by over-GVM loading and corrugated-road pounding. Once a crack starts it spreads quickly, and a cracked or previously welded chassis is a walk-away item on a used truck unless certified engineering repair paperwork exists. Sagged springs alone are a routine, moderately priced fix.

    What you would notice

    • Rear sits visibly low with the tray empty
    • Clunk from the rear under heavy load
    • Frequent bottoming-out on bumps
    • Hairline crack or weld repair visible near the rear spring hangers
    • Harsh ride at full compression

    Typically $900–$4,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Run your fingers around the windscreen surround and A-pillars feeling for bubbling under the paint.

    See why

    Body and chassis rust - A-pillars, sills, door bottoms and rails on coastal/farm trucks

    NZ 70 Series lead hard lives on farms and beaches, and rust is the number one value-killer: A-pillar and windscreen surround rust is a documented model weak point, along with door sills, door bottoms, under-bonnet seams and surface-to-structural rust on chassis rails. Stock trucks that carted fertiliser, lived near salt water or launched boats can rot badly while looking tidy from three metres. Windscreen-surround and pillar repairs mean glass out and panel work, so costs escalate fast, and structural chassis rust can make a WoF unobtainable.

    What you would notice

    • Bubbling paint around the windscreen pillars or gutters
    • Rust blisters along door bottoms and sills
    • Flaky scale on chassis rails and crossmembers
    • Damp, rusty smell in the cab
    • Previous windscreen replacement with sealant smears

    Typically $500–$6,000 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect all leaf spring shackle pins visually for rust, scale and corrosion.

    See why

    Leaf Spring Auxiliary Shackle Pin Corrosion & Binding

    The 70 Series uses solid front and rear leaf spring suspension with auxiliary (helper) spring shackle assemblies. The shackle pins and bushings are prone to corrosion, particularly in vehicles that have been exposed to mud, river crossings, beach use or saltwater environments common in NZ and AU. Corroded pins seize within their bushings, initially causing audible squeaking over undulations and eventually binding that creates harsh suspension action and uneven load distribution. In severe cases a seized auxiliary shackle can crack its spring perch or bend the shackle itself. The repair involves pressing out corroded pins and replacing them with new pins and polyurethane or bronze bushings.

    What you would notice

    • Squeaking or creaking from rear suspension over bumps and undulations
    • Harsh ride quality, particularly when lightly loaded
    • Visible rust and corrosion at shackle pin locations
    • Suspension binding or stiff action on articulation
    • Audible clunking when chassis flexes over uneven ground

    Typically $500–$1,500 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Crouch at each front wheel and look at the chrome swivel ball behind the brake backing plate - a light smear is normal, dripping sludge is not.

    See why

    Front swivel hub leaks - grease/oil onto wheels and diff oil contamination

    The solid front axle's swivel housings seal with a felt/rubber/steel wiper arrangement that wears with age, dirt and water crossings. Leaking swivels sling grease or oily sludge onto the inside of the front wheels and tyres (a WoF fail if it reaches braking surfaces), and a failed inner axle seal lets diff oil migrate into the swivel or grease into the diff, thinning both. The full fix is a both-sides strip-down with new bearings and seal kits - routine for any 4WD workshop but several hours per side. It is the single most common leak on any working 70 Series.

    What you would notice

    • Oily grime sprayed on the inside of the front wheels
    • Grease weeping from the big chrome swivel balls behind the front wheels
    • Front diff oil level dropping or overfilling with thin grey sludge
    • Clicking from the front axle on full lock (worn CV/birfield from running dry)

    Typically $700–$1,600 to put right.

See all 16 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 4 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior2 critical6

01Chassis rail cracking at the rear leaf-spring hanger welds on hard-worked vehicles

This is fatigue cracking of the steel itself, not corrosion.2007 onwardBody & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Rear leaf spring sag and chassis cracking at the spring hanger

Stand back and check the truck sits level unladen - rear sag is obvious.2000 onwardSuspension
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Windscreen-surround and A-pillar rust on coastal, beach and gravel-road vehicles

The windscreen surround and the A-pillars either side of it are the 70 Series' worst rust spot.1990 onwardBody & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Body and chassis rust - A-pillars, sills, door bottoms and rails on coastal/farm trucks

Run your fingers around the windscreen surround and A-pillars feeling for bubbling under the paint.2000 onwardBody & Rust
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Leaf Spring Auxiliary Shackle Pin Corrosion & Binding

Inspect all leaf spring shackle pins visually for rust, scale and corrosion.diesel2007 onwardSuspension
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Flat pinch-weld door seals let dust and wind noise into the cabin

The 70 Series has used the same flat strip door seal pushed onto the door pinch weld since the mid-1980s, and it was marginal when new.1990 onwardInterior
Very commonInterior $150–$700 to fix

The 70 Series has used the same flat strip door seal pushed onto the door pinch weld since the mid-1980s, and it was marginal when new. Once the rubber has gone hard from sun and age it stops sealing, so the cabin fills with fine dust on gravel and roars at open-road speed. On a New Zealand vehicle that lives on metal roads or farm tracks this shows up as an even film of dust on the dash, the door tops and inside the glovebox no matter how often it is cleaned, and it gets into the ventilation and the electrics as well. It is not expensive to fix — an aftermarket bulb-type seal kit and an afternoon — but heavy dust inside also tells you where the vehicle has spent its life, which matters for everything else you are checking. Treat water in the cabin as a different and more serious problem than dust.

Symptoms to notice

  • Fine pale dust film on the dash, door tops and inside the glovebox in an otherwise clean vehicle
  • Loud wind roar around the doors and mirrors at open-road speed
  • Door rubber that feels hard, flat or split when you squeeze it
  • Daylight visible at the top rear corner of a closed door
  • Dust in the spare wheel well, beneath the rear seat or in the load area

What to check

  1. Run a fingertip along the rubber seal on each door and around the door opening, squeezing as you go, because the factory seal is a flat strip pushed onto the pinch weld and once it is hard, flattened or split it has stopped sealing.
  2. Shut each door and look for daylight at the top rear corner, and for a shiny polished band on the paint where the door has been rubbing metal on metal.
  3. Wipe a finger along the top of the dash, the tops of the door trims and inside the glovebox and look at your fingertip, because a fine even film of pale dust in a vehicle that has clearly been cleaned is the giveaway.
  4. Check the spare wheel well, the load area and beneath the rear seat for the same dust.
  5. On the test drive take it to open-road speed with the radio and fan off and listen for wind roar around the mirrors and the tops of the doors, and note whether you have to talk over it.
  6. Ask whether the seals have ever been replaced and whether the vehicle lives on gravel or farm tracks.
  7. If a workshop inspection is possible: ask for a water test of the door and windscreen seals if you find damp carpet as well as dust, since a wet floor points at a leak rather than a tired seal.

Where to look: Rubber seals on all door openings, particularly the top rear corner of each door; dust shows on the dash top, door trim tops, glovebox and spare wheel well

Ask the seller

  • “Have the door seals ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it get dusty inside on gravel roads?”
  • “Has it ever had water on the floor, or damp carpet?”
  • “What roads does it live on — sealed, gravel, or farm tracks?”
Fluid leaks1

07Front swivel hub leaks - grease/oil onto wheels and diff oil contamination

Crouch at each front wheel and look at the chrome swivel ball behind the brake backing plate - a light smear is normal, dripping sludge is not.2000 onwardFluid Leaks
Very commonFluid Leaks $700–$1,600 to fix

The solid front axle's swivel housings seal with a felt/rubber/steel wiper arrangement that wears with age, dirt and water crossings. Leaking swivels sling grease or oily sludge onto the inside of the front wheels and tyres (a WoF fail if it reaches braking surfaces), and a failed inner axle seal lets diff oil migrate into the swivel or grease into the diff, thinning both. The full fix is a both-sides strip-down with new bearings and seal kits - routine for any 4WD workshop but several hours per side. It is the single most common leak on any working 70 Series.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oily grime sprayed on the inside of the front wheels
  • Grease weeping from the big chrome swivel balls behind the front wheels
  • Front diff oil level dropping or overfilling with thin grey sludge
  • Clicking from the front axle on full lock (worn CV/birfield from running dry)

What to check

  1. Crouch at each front wheel and look at the chrome swivel ball behind the brake backing plate - a light smear is normal, dripping sludge is not.
  2. Check the inside of both front tyres for slung oil.
  3. Turn the steering to full lock and roll forward listening for clicks.
  4. Ask when the swivel hubs were last rebuilt - on a farm truck it's a periodic job, not a once-ever job.

Where to look: Front axle swivel housings (chrome balls) directly behind each front wheel

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the swivel hubs last rebuilt and were kingpin bearings replaced?”
  • “Does the front diff oil get checked between services?”
  • “Has it done a lot of water crossings or beach work?”
Depends on the exact engine — 9 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling7

011VD-FTV V8 injector failure leading to melted/cracked pistons

Ask for invoices showing injector replacement - on anything over 150,000 km with original injectors, budget for the job.diesel2007–2024Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

021VD-FTV Timing Chain Elongation & Stretch

Start the engine from cold and listen carefully to the front of the engine for the first 60 seconds.diesel2007 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Airbox lid seal lets dust past the filter on the 4.5 V8 (1VD-FTV) — 'dusting'

Open the bonnet and find the black plastic airbox on the inner guard.diesel2007 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

041VD-FTV Variable Geometry Turbo Actuator Failure

Scan the ECU for any stored or pending boost or turbocharger fault codes before purchase.diesel2007 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

051VD-FTV EGR Cooler Bypass Pipe Cracking & Coolant Loss

Check the coolant reservoir level against the min/max marks and ask if coolant has ever needed topping up.diesel2007 onwardCooling
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Manual gearbox crunching into 2nd and 3rd — worn synchros, often from wrong GL-5 gear oil

diesel2007 onwardTransmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07V8 clutch shudder and premature clutch wear; short 5th gear on pre-2017 trucks

On the test drive, pull away on a slope and load the clutch gently - feel for shudder through the pedal and driveline.diesel2007–2024Transmission
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical1

011HZ glow plug system faults - relays, timer and plugs causing poor cold starts

Insist on a stone-cold start - arrive before the seller has warmed it up.diesel2000–2009Electrical
CommonElectrical $300–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4.2 1HZ is famously understressed and routinely exceeds 500,000 km, but its glow system is its cold-morning weak spot: the pre-heat timer and the two glow relays (one runs afterglow while the engine warms) fail with age, and individual plugs burn out. The classic pattern is a truck that starts fine in summer but cranks long, blows white smoke and misfires for the first seconds on frosty mornings. Persistent hard cold-starting also masks or accelerates low compression, so it should be diagnosed rather than lived with. Parts are cheap and the job is simple for any diesel shop.

Symptoms to notice

  • Long cranking on cold mornings
  • White smoke and lumpy running for the first 30 seconds
  • Glow light on the dash not lighting, or staying on
  • Starts fine once warm

What to check

Insist on a stone-cold start - arrive before the seller has warmed it up. Turn the key, watch the glow light comes on for a few seconds, then start it: it should fire within a couple of seconds with minimal smoke. Extended cranking or a white smokescreen means glow system faults or, worse, tired compression. Ask if the glow plugs or relays have been replaced.

Where to look: Glow plugs along the side of the engine under the injector lines; relays and timer in the engine bay fuse/relay area

Parts involved: Glow plug.

Ask the seller

  • “Can I start it completely cold tomorrow morning?”
  • “Have the glow plugs, relays or timer been replaced?”
  • “Has compression ever been tested?”
Fluid leaks1
Other Toyota Land Cruiser 70 engines and years4 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling3

01Diesel particulate filter blocking on September-2016-onward V8 (1VD-FTV)

Every 70 Series built from September 2016 got a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust to meet tighter emissions rules.diesel2016 onwardEngine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02DPF blocking, failed regens and grass-fire recall on DPF-equipped V8s

Confirm the 2019 heat shield/manual-regen recall was completed (Toyota dealer can check by VIN).diesel2016–2024Engine
Read the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

031HZ Timing Chain Tensioner Wear at High Mileage

Cold-start the engine and listen carefully to the front left of the engine (timing chain side) for the first 60 seconds.diesel1990–2007Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,200–$3,200 to fix

Does not apply

The 1HZ 4.2L inline-six naturally aspirated diesel (and its turbo variant the 1HD-T) uses a single row timing chain with a hydraulic tensioner that relies on oil pressure and a spring-loaded mechanism to maintain chain tension. At high mileage, typically above 250,000 km with neglected or extended oil change intervals, the tensioner's hydraulic element loses its ability to maintain adequate pressure, and the chain can develop slack. This produces a cold-start rattle very similar in character to the 1VD-FTV chain noise: a metallic clattering from the front of the engine that fades once oil pressure is established. Unlike the 1VD-FTV, the 1HZ repair is somewhat simpler due to the single overhead cam in-line layout, but the front cover still needs removal. The fault is well-documented in the 80 Series platform where the same engine family was used.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Cold-start metallic rattle from front of engine clearing within 30-60 seconds
  • Rattling sound when engine is at idle after warm-up in severe cases
  • Rough idle or slight timing-related running issues at high mileage
  • Oil pressure light flickering briefly on start in related cases

What to check

  1. Cold-start the engine and listen carefully to the front left of the engine (timing chain side) for the first 60 seconds.
  2. A rattle that fades as oil pressure rises indicates chain tensioner weakness or chain slack.
  3. Review service history for oil change intervals — the 1HZ is tolerant but requires regular oil changes to maintain tensioner function.
  4. Check the oil condition on the dipstick: dark, thick or sludgy oil suggests neglected intervals.
  5. Ask the owner if they have noticed any cold-start noise.

Where to look: Engine front cover and timing chain assembly, driver's side front of engine

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “What are the vehicle's oil change intervals and what oil has been used?”
  • “Has there ever been any noise from the front of the engine on cold start?”
  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “What is the current odometer reading and has it been used for towing or heavy loads?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

Toyota Land Cruiser 70 faults in detail

Narrowed to the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 · 2008. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Toyota Land Cruiser 70’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Toyota models

Toyota Land Cruiser 70 buyer questions

Is the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 20 documented faults for the Toyota Land Cruiser 70, the recurring problem areas are engine, body & rust, and suspension. A Toyota Land Cruiser 70 with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Toyota Land Cruiser 70?

We've catalogued 20 known faults for the Toyota Land Cruiser 70, covering engine, body & rust, and suspension. All 20 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Toyota Land Cruiser 70?

Most single repairs on the Toyota Land Cruiser 70 fall between $700–$4,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 20 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Toyota Land Cruiser 70?

Yes. A Toyota Land Cruiser 70 inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.