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Mitsubishi1986–2024 Critical issues documented

Mitsubishi Triton: common faults & what to check

Thinking about buying a used Mitsubishi Triton (1986–2024) in New Zealand? We've documented 34 known faults for this model spanning body & rust, engine, electrical, and interior. Each researched and verified before it's published. The most serious issues here are rated critical. Every one is listed below with its symptoms and repair cost, and each has its own page with where to look and what to ask the seller. Free, no account needed.

Check this exact Mitsubishi Triton

  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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34

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$400–$2,000

Typical repair

8

Systems covered

Which Mitsubishi Triton are you looking at?

7 generation variants documented. Pick the shape you recognise: the faults, the servicing and the timeline below all narrow to it. Free, no account needed.

Petrol

1 variant documented

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

Start your free check on this Mitsubishi Triton

No plate needed. You get the risk score, the buyer's checklist and the guided inspection for the exact car you picked above — not the whole nameplate.

Mitsubishi TritonEngine not picked yet

Pick the engine above first: the Triton came with 6, and without it the report has to show all of their faults. Pick the engine

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Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishi Triton

Nothing has been narrowed yet, so nothing below is a claim about a particular car. Pick a year and an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

matched on no vehicle context

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mitsubishi Triton before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Start the engine from cold and immediately listen for a rattle from the front of the engine.

    See why

    4N15 2.4D Timing Chain Stretch and Cold-Start Rattle

    The 4N15 2.4-litre diesel fitted to MQ/MR Tritons uses a timing chain that is dependent on oil pressure at startup for adequate lubrication of the chain tensioner. On vehicles with extended oil change intervals or where oil quality has degraded, the chain and tensioner wear prematurely, producing a characteristic cold-start rattle that clears as oil pressure builds. Widely documented on Triton MQ owner forums in NZ and AU, and confirmed by multiple independent mechanics as an escalating problem if ignored.

    What you would notice

    • Loud rattling or chattering noise from engine on cold start, clearing after 10-30 seconds
    • Check engine light with timing-related codes (P0016, P0017, P0335)
    • Rough running or misfires during warm-up phase

    Typically $2,500–$6,000 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Look at the steering wheel: the recall covers Tritons with a four spoke wheel.

    See why

    Takata driver airbag inflator can rupture, critical safety recall PRA 2016/15523 (ML/MN Triton)

    ML and MN Tritons from the 2007 to 2014 model years with a four spoke steering wheel were recalled because the Takata driver airbag inflator can degrade with heat and humidity and rupture when it deploys, firing metal fragments at the driver. The Australian recall (PRA 2016/15523) covered 57,025 Tritons and was upgraded to critical in 2019, with Mitsubishi offering free replacement and towing. The fix is free at a Mitsubishi dealer. NZ new vehicles may be covered by a separate local campaign, so check the VIN with Mitsubishi.

    What you would notice

    • No warning signs before a crash
    • Four spoke steering wheel fitted

    Typically $0–$1,500 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Confirm timing belt replacement history with receipts.

    See why

    4D56 2.5D Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

    The 4D56 2.5-litre diesel is an interference engine fitted with a rubber timing belt requiring replacement at 100,000 km intervals. Belt failure causes catastrophic piston-to-valve contact and complete engine destruction. Widely documented in NZ and AU as the single highest-risk failure on ML/MN Tritons due to many owners missing or deferring the service. Second-hand imports often arrive with unknown belt history.

    What you would notice

    • No warning — engine stops suddenly without prior symptoms
    • Catastrophic engine failure if belt snaps at speed
    • Rough running or misfires if belt has jumped a tooth

    Typically $450–$900 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    On the test drive, drive slowly over speed bumps and rough ground with the window down and listen for knocking from the front corners.

    See why

    Front upper ball joint bolts not tightened at the factory, safety recall PRA 2010/11689 (ML Triton built Oct 2006 to Jan 2009)

    On ML Tritons built between October 2006 and January 2009, the bolts holding the front upper ball joints to the upper suspension arms may not have been tightened enough during manufacture. Loose bolts cause a knocking noise from the front suspension, and in the worst case the ball joint can come away from the arm and the vehicle cannot be driven. Mitsubishi recalled about 42,500 Australian and about 3,000 New Zealand Tritons in 2010 and dealers check and retighten the bolts free. If a loose joint was driven on for a long time, the arm or ball joint may also need replacing.

    What you would notice

    • Knocking or clunking from the front suspension over bumps
    • Steering feels loose or wanders
    • Uneven front tyre wear

    Typically $0–$900 to put right.

  • Serious issue

    Inspect rear springs from behind and below with a torch.

    See why

    Rear Leaf Spring Centre Pin Shear

    The rear leaf spring packs on ML/MN Tritons are held in alignment by a centre bolt/pin that is known to shear under sustained heavy use — particularly when the vehicle is regularly loaded or used off-road. A sheared centre pin allows the axle to shift laterally on the spring pack, creating a handling hazard. Widely reported in the NZ/AU Triton community among tradesman vehicles and farm utes.

    What you would notice

    • Loud clunk from rear under acceleration or over bumps
    • Rear axle appears offset from centreline when viewed from behind
    • Vehicle tracks sideways or pulls under load

    Typically $250–$600 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect instrument cluster for DPF warning light history.

    See why

    4N15 DPF Clogging on Short Urban Trips

    The 4N15 diesel particulate filter requires sustained highway or open-road driving at elevated exhaust temperatures to complete passive regeneration and burn off accumulated soot. Vehicles used predominantly on short urban trips under 20 km do not reach the exhaust temperatures necessary for soot oxidation. ECU-initiated active regeneration cycles also fail to complete if the journey ends prematurely. Progressive soot accumulation blocks the filter, triggering power reduction and ultimately limp mode. This is among the most commonly reported faults on NZ and Australian urban Tritons. Remedies range from a forced dealer regeneration at low soot loads to complete DPF replacement in severe cases, the latter being a significant expense.

    What you would notice

    • DPF warning light illuminated on instrument cluster
    • Noticeable reduction in engine power and throttle response
    • Increased fuel consumption without other explanation
    • Strong diesel exhaust odour during attempted active regeneration cycles
    • Engine entering limp mode when DPF soot load reaches critical threshold

    Typically $400–$3,800 to put right.

See all 34 documented issuesEverything researched for the Mitsubishi Triton, including 8 rated critical.
Depends on which engine this Mitsubishi Triton has — 34Each of these is documented for one particular engine. Pick the year and engine above to see which of them apply.
Engine, transmission & cooling22

014N15 2.4D Timing Chain Stretch and Cold-Start Rattle

Start the engine from cold and immediately listen for a rattle from the front of the engine.diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

024D56 2.5D Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

Confirm timing belt replacement history with receipts.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03INVECS-III 6-Speed Automatic Transmission Failure

Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).petrolTransmission
CommonTransmission $4,550–$9,100 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The INVECS-III 6-speed automatic in MQ and MR Tritons develops torque converter shudder, harsh gear changes, and in severe cases complete clutch pack failure. The transmission is sensitive to towing loads beyond the factory-rated limits and to failure to use Mitsubishi-specified fluid at correct intervals. Symptoms begin with delayed engagement from rest and progress to slipping under load.

Symptoms to notice

  • Transmission slipping between gears
  • Harsh or delayed gear changes
  • Transmission fluid leak

What to check

  1. Check fluid level and condition (colour, smell).
  2. Test shift quality through all gears.
  3. Look for slipping, delay or harsh engagement.

Parts involved: Torque converter, Clutch.

044N15 HPCR Injector Tip Erosion & Rough Idle

Request a cylinder contribution test and injector balance test via diagnostic scan tool to identify underperforming cylinders.diesel2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$7,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4N15 high-pressure common rail fuel system operates at injection pressures exceeding 2,000 bar. At elevated mileage, typically above 180,000 km, injector nozzle tips are susceptible to erosion and carbonisation from combustion deposit accumulation and, in some cases, contaminated or low-cetane diesel fuel. Eroded nozzle tips deliver inconsistent fuel spray patterns and uneven fuel quantities across cylinders, resulting in rough warm idle, uneven power delivery, and increased smoke under load. Diagnosis requires an injector contribution (balance) test via scan tool. Individual injector replacement is expensive; advanced cases involving multiple affected injectors or high-pressure pump contamination require complete fuel system assessment.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rough or uneven idle particularly noticeable when the engine is fully warmed up
  • Engine vibration or hunting at low RPM in drive or neutral
  • Increased black or grey exhaust smoke under acceleration
  • Reduced fuel economy without other identified cause
  • Injector-related fault codes P0201 through P0204 or injector balance deviation codes
  • Extended crank time before engine fires on cold starts

What to check

  1. Request a cylinder contribution test and injector balance test via diagnostic scan tool to identify underperforming cylinders.
  2. Inspect injector return fuel lines for excessive back-leak volume (perform a back-leak test).
  3. Review fuel filter service history — the 4N15 fuel filter should be changed every 40,000 km.
  4. Ask about diesel fuel source quality and any history of contaminated fuel.
  5. Vehicles above 180,000 km warrant a professional injector assessment as part of pre-purchase inspection.

Where to look: Four injectors in cylinder head top, common rail along intake side of engine

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “What is the vehicle mileage and has the fuel filter been replaced at the recommended service intervals?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever had injector testing, cleaning, or injector replacement?”
  • “Has rough idle or excess smoke been noticed, especially when the engine is warm?”
  • “Has the vehicle been fuelled from reputable major branded service stations?”

054D56 Cylinder Head Gasket Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.diesel1986–2016Engine
CommonEngine $2,660–$5,320 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4D56 2.5L turbodiesel aluminium head is prone to gasket failure under overheating conditions, often triggered by a prior coolant leak or thermostat failure going undetected. Symptoms include coolant loss, white smoke, and loss of compression in adjacent cylinders. Head machining is nearly always required. The 4D56 is also sensitive to overrevving, which accelerates head stud stretch and subsequent gasket movement.

A removed multi-layer steel head gasket held up, showing staining around the cylinder bore.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A used multi-layer head gasket. Discolouration between a cylinder and a water gallery is the tell.

John Furman · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine overheating under load
  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Coolant loss or steam from engine bay

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Head gasket, Cylinder head.

064N15 2.4 valve clearances tightening up and burning valves with no warning noise

diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder & Harsh Shifting

Drive the vehicle on a highway at 80-100 km/h in light throttle lock-up and feel for a rhythmic vibration or shudder through the floor.2015–2023Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $300–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MQ/MR Triton INVECS-III 6-speed automatic transmission torque converter lock-up clutch is known to develop shudder on light throttle at highway speeds, typically in the 60-100 km/h range, as the friction material in the lock-up clutch wears. Separately, degraded ATF fluid causes solenoid sluggishness resulting in hesitation, firm engagement when selecting Drive from Park, and flare between upshifts under load. Both issues are documented in owner communities and addressed by dealerships via ATF drain-and-fill cycles and in some cases software calibration updates.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic shudder or vibration felt through the drivetrain at light throttle cruise between 60-100 km/h
  • Harsh engagement clunk when selecting Drive or Reverse from Park, especially when cold
  • Hesitation or flare (RPM rise without forward motion) during upshifts under moderate load
  • Slipping sensation or brief loss of drive in higher gears when towing
  • Dark or burnt-smelling ATF fluid indicating overheating or overdue service

What to check

  1. Drive the vehicle on a highway at 80-100 km/h in light throttle lock-up and feel for a rhythmic vibration or shudder through the floor.
  2. Engage Drive from Park or Reverse from Park and note any harsh clunk or delay.
  3. Check the ATF condition via the transmission fill plug colour.
  4. Request service history for ATF change intervals.

Where to look: Automatic transmission and torque converter, mounted under the centre of the vehicle behind the engine

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever been changed, and if so at what mileage?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever shuddered or vibrated at highway cruise speeds?”
  • “Has there been any harsh engagement, slipping, or delay when selecting Drive or Reverse?”

08DPF Blockage from Incomplete Regeneration & Fuel Dilution

Check oil level and smell dipstick for diesel odour, which indicates fuel dilution.diesel2015–2023EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09Timing chain tensioner sticking and chain rattle (3.2 4M41 diesel, ML)

diesel2006–2009Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,800–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3.2 litre 4M41 common rail diesel in the ML Triton uses a timing chain whose tensioner is known to wear and stick, a problem a major parts maker links to carbon build up in the oil from the engine's emission controls. Once the tensioner stops working the chain runs slack, rattles, wears the top guide and in the worst case can break and wreck the engine. Australian workshops report ML Tritons coming in with noise from the timing chain area. There is no recall; the fix is a full timing chain kit with fresh oil and filter.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle or slapping noise from the front of the engine, loudest on a cold start
  • Rattle that comes and goes with revs at idle
  • Metallic chatter from under the rocker cover
  • Check engine light or rough running if the chain has jumped

What to check

  1. Ask for the engine to be completely cold before you arrive, then listen at the front of the engine with the bonnet up as it starts: a rattle or slapping that lasts more than a second or two is a warning sign.
  2. Let it idle and blip the throttle while listening for a chain chatter that rises and falls with revs.
  3. Ask whether the timing chain, tensioner or guides have ever been replaced and look for an invoice.
  4. Check the oil on the dipstick: very black, thick oil suggests long service intervals, which speeds up tensioner wear.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the tensioner removed and checked for plunger over-extension and the chain guide surfaces checked for pitting.

Where to look: Front of the engine, behind the timing cover and under the rocker cover

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain, tensioner or top guide ever been replaced?”
  • “How often has the oil been changed, and do you have the service history?”
  • “Does it rattle on a cold start?”

104D56 Turbocharger Bearing Failure

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.diesel1986–2016Engine
CommonEngine $2,240–$4,480 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The variable-geometry turbocharger on the 4D56 is prone to bearing wear and actuator seizure, particularly where oil change intervals have been extended or the engine has been switched off immediately after sustained high-load operation. Symptoms include oil consumption, blue smoke at startup, loss of boost, and turbo whistle. The VGT vane mechanism also sticks with carbon, causing erratic boost and limp mode.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Difficult cold start or unstable idle

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

116-Speed Automatic Transmission Solenoid Wear

During test drive, pay close attention to the quality of every upshift and downshift.2015 onwardTransmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The AISIN-sourced 6-speed automatic fitted to MQ/MR Tritons has documented solenoid wear issues, manifesting as rough or delayed gear changes, hunting between gears, and occasional engagement clunks. The fault is particularly associated with vehicles that have had infrequent transmission fluid changes, as the solenoids are sensitive to fluid degradation. Reported by multiple NZ and AU independent transmission specialists as a growing issue on higher-mileage examples.

Symptoms to notice

  • Harsh or delayed gear changes, especially 1-2 or 2-3 shift
  • Transmission hunting or hesitation at constant speed
  • Clunk on engagement from Park or Neutral
  • Transmission warning light

What to check

During test drive, pay close attention to the quality of every upshift and downshift. Shifts should be smooth and prompt. Any harshness, hunting, or delay is concerning. Check transmission fluid colour via dipstick if accessible — dark or burnt-smelling fluid indicates neglect. Ask for fluid change history.

Where to look: Automatic transmission, valve body solenoid pack

Ask the seller

  • “When was the transmission fluid last changed?”
  • “Has the transmission ever been serviced or had a solenoid replacement?”
  • “Have you noticed any rough or delayed gear changes?”

124N15 DPF Clogging on Short Urban Trips

Inspect instrument cluster for DPF warning light history.diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

13Diesel Injector Return Seal & O-Ring Failure

Inspect the valve cover and injector bores for any signs of diesel weeping or staining around individual injectors.diesel2015–2023Engine
OccasionalEngine $400–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4N15 and 4D56U common-rail injectors require removal for valve clearance adjustments every 40,000 km per the service schedule. Repeated removal and refitting compromises the copper seating washers and rubber O-rings on the injector return fuel circuit. Failed seals allow combustion blow-by past the injector body and diesel fuel to enter the sump, exacerbating oil dilution. High-pressure return line O-ring failures can also cause external fuel weeping near the injector hold-down area.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Diesel smell from engine bay or valve cover area without obvious external leak
  • Engine oil smelling of diesel when checked on the dipstick
  • Rough idle or misfires on one or more cylinders following a valve clearance service
  • Minor diesel weeping or staining visible around injector hold-down area
  • Accelerated oil dilution requiring more frequent oil changes than expected

What to check

  1. Inspect the valve cover and injector bores for any signs of diesel weeping or staining around individual injectors.
  2. Smell the engine oil for diesel contamination.
  3. Ask for injector service records and whether new copper washers and O-rings were fitted on each injector removal.

Where to look: Top of engine, injector bores in the cylinder head valve cover

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the valve clearances been adjusted at the required 40,000 km intervals, and were new injector seals and copper washers fitted each time?”
  • “Has any injector ever been flagged as leaking or replaced?”
  • “Has the engine oil ever shown diesel contamination between service intervals?”

144N15 EGR Housing Coolant Seal Failure

Check coolant reservoir level against prior service records.diesel2015 onwardCoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

15EGR Valve & Intake Manifold Carbon Soot Blockage

Inspect for fault code P2413.diesel2015–2023EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

164D56 EGR Valve Failure and Intercooler Oil Contamination

Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.diesel1986–2016Engine
CommonEngine $980–$1,960 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The EGR valve on the 4D56 sticks and fails due to carbon fouling. Compounding the issue, the turbocharger oil seal wears and allows oil to pass into the intercooler and intake tract, coating EGR passages with an oily carbon sludge that is harder to clear than dry carbon. This combination results in significant intake restriction, black smoke under load, and reduced power output.

Symptoms to notice

  • Blue or white smoke from exhaust
  • Fault codes or irregular readings when scanned

What to check

  1. Check for oil leaks around valve covers, sump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect coolant condition and level.

Parts involved: EGR valve.

17Front Differential Freewheel Actuator Failure (4WD Non-Engagement)

On a gravel or dirt surface, engage 4H and drive in a tight turning circle.2015–2023Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $350–$1,400 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MQ/MR Triton uses an electronically controlled vacuum-operated front freewheel actuator to engage the front axle when 4WD is selected. The actuator diaphragm perishes over time and vacuum solenoid pack seals degrade, preventing the front differential from engaging. The result is the 4WD position being selected on the dash but drive being delivered to the rear axle only. This failure often goes unnoticed until the vehicle is needed in 4WD conditions. Vacuum line deterioration and solenoid corrosion are the primary documented causes.

Symptoms to notice

  • 4WD engaged on the selector switch and dash display but vehicle behaves as two-wheel drive
  • No additional resistance or traction when 4WD is selected in low-grip conditions
  • 4WD warning light or fault code related to 4WD transfer case or actuator circuit
  • Hissing sound from the front diff area when 4WD is selected indicating vacuum leak
  • Front wheels do not drive when vehicle is put in 4H or 4L

What to check

On a gravel or dirt surface, engage 4H and drive in a tight turning circle. Both front and rear wheels should resist rotation and cause the vehicle to scrub. If the front wheels spin freely with no resistance, the actuator is not engaging. Inspect vacuum hoses at the actuator for cracks or disconnection. If a workshop inspection is possible: A scan tool can check 4WD system solenoid response.

Where to look: Front differential, driver's side, vacuum actuator and solenoid pack mounted on or adjacent to the differential housing

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Can you demonstrate that 4WD engages correctly and that the front wheels actually receive drive when selected?”
  • “Has the 4WD system or front diff actuator ever been serviced or repaired?”
  • “Has the vehicle had any 4WD warning lights or electrical faults related to the transfer case?”

184M41 3.2D EGR Valve Carbon Clogging

Request a scan tool reading for EGR fault codes.diesel2006–2009EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

19INVECS-III Auto Harsh 2-3 Cold Upshift

Conduct a cold test drive starting from ambient temperature and specifically note shift quality on the 2-to-3 upshift in the first 10 minutes.diesel2015 onwardTransmission
CommonTransmission $350–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MQ and MR Triton INVECS-III 6-speed automatic transmission produces a pronounced harsh or clunking 2-to-3 upshift when transmission fluid is cold, typically during the first 5-10 minutes of driving in ambient temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius. The fault arises from delayed torque converter lock-up calibration at low fluid temperatures combined with clutch pack engagement timing. Mitsubishi issued TCU software updates revising cold-shift mapping, but not all vehicles have received the reflash. Persistent harshness after a confirmed fluid change and TCU update points to internal valve body wear or clutch pack degradation requiring more extensive transmission servicing.

Symptoms to notice

  • Noticeable jolt or clunk specifically on the 2-to-3 upshift when transmission is cold
  • Shift harshness that diminishes significantly once transmission reaches operating temperature
  • Hesitation or surging at low-speed acceleration in stop-start urban traffic when cold
  • Occasional transmission warning light illuminating on early MQ models

What to check

  1. Conduct a cold test drive starting from ambient temperature and specifically note shift quality on the 2-to-3 upshift in the first 10 minutes.
  2. Check ATF condition and level.
  3. Request Mitsubishi dealer service records to confirm the TCU calibration software version is current.
  4. Verify ATF has been changed at or before 100,000 km using Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP-III or equivalent approved fluid.

Where to look: Automatic transmission unit, underfloor centre tunnel behind engine

Parts involved: Torque converter, Clutch, Mechatronic / valve body.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever been drained and refilled?”
  • “Has the vehicle visited a Mitsubishi dealer for any transmission-related software update?”
  • “Does the transmission shift smoothly when fully warmed up after 15 minutes of driving?”

20Intercooler Hose & Boost Pipe Splitting

Physically squeeze and flex each intercooler hose and coupling.diesel2015–2023Engine
CommonEngine $150–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4N15's silicone and rubber intercooler couplings and boost pipes are subject to heat cycling and constant pressurisation. The factory rubber couplings between the intercooler and intake manifold are a documented failure point, cracking or splitting at the clamp edges with age. Even a small boost leak starves the engine of charge air, triggers incomplete DPF regenerations, and can lead to progressive DPF blockage. The pipe from the turbocharger outlet to the intercooler inlet and the return pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body are the most commonly affected.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loss of power under acceleration especially when loaded or towing, which may be intermittent
  • Hissing sound from engine bay under boost
  • Increased fuel consumption with no mechanical explanation
  • DPF warning light or excessive regeneration cycles caused by lean running
  • Visible crack or split in rubber coupling visible on inspection

What to check

Physically squeeze and flex each intercooler hose and coupling. Look for cracking, splitting, or perishing at the clamp contact points. With the engine running under light load, listen for a hissing from the intercooler pipe run. A smoke machine or boost leak test from a workshop will confirm any split definitively.

Where to look: Intercooler pipe run between turbocharger, front-mounted intercooler, and intake manifold

Parts involved: Intake manifold, Turbocharger, Diesel particulate filter.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the intercooler hoses or couplings ever been inspected, replaced, or upgraded to silicone?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever shown unexplained power loss under load that resolved itself?”

21Auto stop-start rough operation and delayed restart

During the test drive let the engine auto-stop at a light and gauge how promptly and smoothly it restarts.diesel2024 onwardEngine
CommonEngine $0–$550 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MV Triton's fuel-saving idle stop-start system has been criticised by multiple reviewers for operating roughly and, more importantly, for a noticeable delay when the engine re-fires, which was flagged as a safety concern when pulling onto a freeway on-ramp. It is a driveability/calibration trait present from new and not km-dependent, though a weak or ageing auxiliary/main battery can make the restart hesitation worse over time. There is no ADR safety recall for this; drivers commonly switch the system off each drive to avoid it. Persistent slow cranking or failure to restart should prompt a battery and charging-system check.

Symptoms to notice

  • Hesitation or lag before the engine restarts after an auto stop
  • Rough or shuddery re-fire when moving off
  • Stop-start disabling itself or not engaging (often battery-related)
  • Driver routinely turns the stop-start system off

What to check

During the test drive let the engine auto-stop at a light and gauge how promptly and smoothly it restarts. Test/inspect the battery state of health (stop-start systems are sensitive to a tired battery) and confirm the correct AGM/stop-start battery is fitted; scan for related fault codes if the system refuses to engage.

Where to look: Engine (2.4L 4N16 diesel) auto stop-start system, starter, main/auxiliary battery

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine restart quickly and smoothly after the stop-start cuts it?”
  • “Has the battery been tested or replaced?”
  • “Does the stop-start system ever refuse to work or throw a warning?”

22Low-speed hesitation / lazy shifts from 6-speed torque-converter auto

Test drive at light throttle through 2nd-3rd-4th and note any hesitation, flare or shunt.diesel2024 onwardTransmission
CommonTransmission $0–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MV Triton's six-speed automatic (paired with the 2.4L 4N16 bi-turbo diesel) has drawn consistent criticism for hesitant, sometimes jerky low-speed gear changes, notably a reluctant lazy up-shift from 3rd to 4th and occasionally 2nd to 3rd, which reviewers attribute to the torque converter staying locked too long before the change. It is a calibration/driveability trait rather than a mechanical failure, and it is present from new rather than being wear-related, so it should not be mistaken for a slipping or worn gearbox. Some owners find a transmission adaptation relearn or fluid check helps; no ADR safety recall has been issued for this. Any driveline fault during the warranty period is covered by Mitsubishi's conditional 10-year/200,000km (dealer-serviced) warranty.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Brief hesitation or hold before up-shifting when accelerating gently
  • Occasional jerk/shunt on the 3-4 or 2-3 change
  • Transmission feels like it hangs onto a gear or the converter stays locked
  • Aggressive or abrupt shift feel in stop-start traffic

What to check

  1. Test drive at light throttle through 2nd-3rd-4th and note any hesitation, flare or shunt; distinguish the known lock-up calibration trait from actual slipping (rising revs without acceleration).
  2. Check for a transmission software/adaptation update and inspect ATF condition and level; scan for stored transmission fault codes.

Where to look: 6-speed automatic transmission and torque converter, transmission control module

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the auto hesitate or jerk at low speed, and has a dealer ever adjusted or reflashed the transmission?”
  • “Has the transmission fluid been checked or changed?”
  • “Are there any stored gearbox fault codes?”
Electrical2

01Genuine accessory towbar wiring harness fire risk - 2020 safety recall (MQ/MR)

In March 2020 Mitsubishi recalled 102,616 MQ and MR Tritons sold between February 2015 and December 2019, under Australian recall REC-005048.2015–2019Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $0–$3,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

In March 2020 Mitsubishi recalled 102,616 MQ and MR Tritons sold between February 2015 and December 2019, under Australian recall REC-005048. On vehicles fitted with the Mitsubishi genuine accessory towbar, the wiring harness had been installed in a way that let water and road spray reach the electrical circuits, so the harness and everything around it could overheat, burn or catch fire. Only vehicles that actually had the accessory towbar fitted are affected - a Triton with no towbar, or with an aftermarket one, sits outside the recall. The remedy is free: a dealer re-installs the harness properly. The catch for a used buyer is that many of these utes have changed hands several times and were never presented, so if it has not been done the risk is still sitting there, and a harness that has already cooked can take the trailer lights, the rear body loom and the towbar socket with it.

Symptoms to notice

  • Trailer lights not working, flickering, or working on one side only
  • Melted, browned or brittle plastic around the trailer plug or the wiring behind the rear bumper
  • Hot electrical or burning smell after towing
  • Trailer circuit fuses blowing repeatedly
  • Tape, heat-shrink or obvious amateur repairs on the wiring near the towbar

What to check

First establish whether it even has a towbar, and whether it is the Mitsubishi genuine accessory one, because the recall only covers vehicles with that towbar fitted. Kneel at the back and shine your phone torch on the trailer plug and the wiring running to it behind the rear bumper, looking for melted or discoloured plastic, cracked or brittle insulation, green corrosion, and any wiring that has been taped up or repaired. Sniff around the trailer socket and up behind the bumper for a burnt electrical smell. Ask the seller for the recall paperwork and ask whether the towbar wiring recall has been carried out; if they do not know, write down the VIN from the base of the windscreen and have a Mitsubishi dealer check the recall status by VIN before you buy, which costs nothing. If there is a trailer plug, ask whether you can plug a trailer in and confirm every light works on both sides.

Where to look: The towbar wiring harness and trailer socket at the rear, behind the rear bumper and above the towbar tongue, plus the section of loom that runs forward along the chassis rail towards the fuse box.

Ask the seller

  • “Does it have the Mitsubishi genuine towbar, an aftermarket towbar, or none at all?”
  • “Has the towbar wiring recall been carried out, and is there paperwork for it?”
  • “Have the trailer lights or trailer fuses ever given trouble?”
  • “Has any wiring at the rear ever been repaired, replaced or added to?”

02Over-sensitive camera-based Driver Monitoring System (DMS)

Confirm the driver-monitoring software update (from 22 July 2024) has been applied via a dealer.diesel2024 onwardElectrical
CommonElectrical $0–$150 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The all-new 6th-gen (MV) Triton launched with a camera-based Driver Monitoring System that triggered false distraction/drowsiness alerts for natural movements such as head-checks, mirror glances and even blinking, and struggled at night. The complaints were widespread enough that Mitsubishi Motors Australia issued a factory software update, applied to all new Tritons built from 22 July 2024 and retrofitted free to earlier vehicles, that reduced sensitivity, raised the minimum active speed and simplified disabling the camera. Owners report the alerts are improved but can still be intrusive, and the disable toggle resets to ON every time the vehicle is restarted. This is a software/service campaign, not a numbered ADR safety recall.

Symptoms to notice

  • Frequent chimes/warnings claiming the driver is distracted or drowsy when they are not
  • Alerts triggered by normal mirror checks, head movement or wearing sunglasses
  • System repeatedly warns at night or in low light
  • Driver-monitor camera reverts to enabled at every start-up

What to check

  1. Confirm the driver-monitoring software update (from 22 July 2024) has been applied via a dealer; note the software/firmware version and whether the vehicle predates the fix.
  2. Take a short test drive to gauge how often the DMS falsely alerts and check the disable toggle in the instrument-cluster safety menu works.

Where to look: Camera module on the steering column shroud / upper dashboard, instrument-cluster safety-systems menu

Ask the seller

  • “Has the driver-monitoring software update been installed, and is there a service record showing it?”
  • “Does the distraction alert still go off during normal driving?”
  • “Which build date / software version is this vehicle?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior9

01Chassis cracking in the rails between the back of the cab and the front of the tray

2015–2023Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $900–$7,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On a separate-chassis ute the body itself stiffens the frame, and the Triton has an inherent weak point in the open span of chassis rail between the back of the cab and the leading edge of the tray, where nothing bridges the two. Overloading, badly distributed loads, heavy towing on rough roads and, above all, airbag helper springs bolted to a part of the rail never designed to carry that load, start cracks in exactly that span. The clearest evidence of how common it is: Australian suppliers sell weld-on chassis braces and repair plates made specifically for the ML/MN and the MQ/MR Triton dual cab. A cracked chassis is a warrant failure, and the repair has to be done properly - cut back, sectioned or plated and certified - not just welded up. Utes that have already been repaired are out there, so fresh weld or new paint on just that section of rail deserves a straight question.

Symptoms to notice

  • A fine crack starting at the top or bottom edge of the chassis rail in the gap between cab and tray
  • A rust weep or a thin split in the paint running across that section of rail
  • New-looking weld beads, plates or a fresh patch of paint on the rails behind the cab
  • Creaks, bangs or a shudder from behind the cab over uneven ground or under load
  • Doors or the tray no longer lining up, or the tray sitting slightly skewed on the chassis

What to check

Crouch beside each rear wheel, shine your phone torch on the chassis rail in the open gap between the back of the cab and the front of the tray, and follow it slowly along the top and bottom edges - that is the exact span that cracks. A hairline crack often shows only as a thin rust weep or a fine line where the paint has split, so wipe the rail with a rag and look again. Then look for the opposite clue: fresh weld beads, welded or bolted plates, or new paint on just that section, which means it has cracked before. Ask whether it has ever carried a heavy steel tray, a slide-on canopy or a service body, whether it tows regularly and how heavy, and whether airbag helper springs have been fitted to the rear, because airbags acting on the wrong part of the rail are a known trigger. Ask for any engineer's report or certification if the chassis has been repaired or braced. Take a slow drive over a rough or unsealed stretch with the windows down and listen for banging or a shudder from behind the cab.

Where to look: Both chassis rails in the open span between the rear of the cab and the front edge of the tray - roughly under where a canopy's front wall or a tray's headboard sits. Check the top and bottom edges of the rail, not just the flat outer face.

Parts involved: Chassis and structural rust.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the chassis ever cracked, been welded, plated or braced, and is there an engineer's report?”
  • “Have airbag helper springs been fitted to the rear suspension?”
  • “What does it tow and how often, and does it carry a steel tray, canopy or service body?”
  • “Has it worked on farms, at mines, or on unsealed roads?”

02Takata driver airbag inflator can rupture, critical safety recall PRA 2016/15523 (ML/MN Triton)

Look at the steering wheel: the recall covers Tritons with a four spoke wheel.2007–2014Interior
CommonInterior $0–$1,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

ML and MN Tritons from the 2007 to 2014 model years with a four spoke steering wheel were recalled because the Takata driver airbag inflator can degrade with heat and humidity and rupture when it deploys, firing metal fragments at the driver. The Australian recall (PRA 2016/15523) covered 57,025 Tritons and was upgraded to critical in 2019, with Mitsubishi offering free replacement and towing. The fix is free at a Mitsubishi dealer. NZ new vehicles may be covered by a separate local campaign, so check the VIN with Mitsubishi.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warning signs before a crash
  • Four spoke steering wheel fitted

What to check

Look at the steering wheel: the recall covers Tritons with a four spoke wheel. Ask the seller for proof the airbag recall was done, such as a dealer invoice or a recall label, and check the service book. If the seller does not know, ask them to ring a Mitsubishi dealer with the VIN before you buy. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Mitsubishi dealer can confirm on their system whether the replacement airbag has been fitted.

Where to look: Driver airbag in the centre of the steering wheel

Ask the seller

  • “Has the Takata airbag recall been completed, and do you have the paperwork?”
  • “Is the steering wheel the original four spoke wheel?”

03Front upper ball joint bolts not tightened at the factory, safety recall PRA 2010/11689 (ML Triton built Oct 2006 to Jan 2009)

On the test drive, drive slowly over speed bumps and rough ground with the window down and listen for knocking from the front corners.2006–2009Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $0–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On ML Tritons built between October 2006 and January 2009, the bolts holding the front upper ball joints to the upper suspension arms may not have been tightened enough during manufacture. Loose bolts cause a knocking noise from the front suspension, and in the worst case the ball joint can come away from the arm and the vehicle cannot be driven. Mitsubishi recalled about 42,500 Australian and about 3,000 New Zealand Tritons in 2010 and dealers check and retighten the bolts free. If a loose joint was driven on for a long time, the arm or ball joint may also need replacing.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking from the front suspension over bumps
  • Steering feels loose or wanders
  • Uneven front tyre wear

What to check

On the test drive, drive slowly over speed bumps and rough ground with the window down and listen for knocking from the front corners. Check the front tyres for uneven inner or outer wear. Ask for proof the 2010 front suspension recall was done; the build date on the compliance plate tells you if the ute is in the October 2006 to January 2009 range. If a workshop inspection is possible: have the upper ball joint bolts torque checked and the ball joints checked for play with the wheels off the ground.

Where to look: Front suspension, where the upper ball joint bolts to the upper control arm on each side

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 2010 front upper ball joint recall been done?”
  • “Has the front suspension ever knocked or been repaired?”

04Rear Leaf Spring Centre Pin Shear

Inspect rear springs from behind and below with a torch.2005–2015Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $250–$600 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear leaf spring packs on ML/MN Tritons are held in alignment by a centre bolt/pin that is known to shear under sustained heavy use — particularly when the vehicle is regularly loaded or used off-road. A sheared centre pin allows the axle to shift laterally on the spring pack, creating a handling hazard. Widely reported in the NZ/AU Triton community among tradesman vehicles and farm utes.

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud clunk from rear under acceleration or over bumps
  • Rear axle appears offset from centreline when viewed from behind
  • Vehicle tracks sideways or pulls under load

What to check

  1. Inspect rear springs from behind and below with a torch.
  2. Check that the axle is centred under the body — an offset axle indicates a sheared pin.
  3. Look for spring clip damage or pack separation.
  4. Check U-bolt tightness.

Where to look: Rear axle, leaf spring centre bolt through spring pack and axle pad

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has this vehicle been used as a work ute or for towing regularly?”
  • “Has the rear suspension been serviced or leaf springs replaced?”
  • “Have you ever had a clunking noise from the rear under load?”

05Rear axle U-bolts can crack and break, safety recall PRA 2009/10643 (ML Triton ute built Dec 2006 to Jun 2007)

On ML Triton utes built between December 2006 and June 2007, tiny cracks could be left in the bend of the rear axle U-bolts when they were made.2006–2007Suspension
OccasionalSuspension $0–$500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

On ML Triton utes built between December 2006 and June 2007, tiny cracks could be left in the bend of the rear axle U-bolts when they were made. Where the ute is used around salt water or other corrosive conditions, rust works into those cracks and a U-bolt can break, letting the rear axle move on the springs. Mitsubishi recalled 14,923 Australian Tritons in March 2009 and replaced the U-bolts free.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunk from the rear when taking off or braking
  • Ute pulls or crabs to one side
  • Rear wheel sits further forward or back in the arch on one side

What to check

Look under the back with a torch at the U-bolts that clamp the axle to each leaf spring: look for heavy rust, cracks at the bends, or a missing or loose nut. Stand behind the ute and check both rear wheels sit square in their arches. On the test drive listen for a clunk from the rear on take off and braking. Check the build date on the compliance plate and ask for proof the 2009 U-bolt recall was done.

Where to look: Rear axle, the U-bolts clamping the axle housing to each leaf spring

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 2009 rear axle U-bolt recall been done?”
  • “Has the ute been used on beaches or for boat launching?”

06Rear Leaf Spring Fatigue, Sag & Cracking

With the vehicle unladen, measure rear ride height on both sides and compare against front.2015–2023Suspension
CommonSuspension $700–$2,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MQ and MR Triton rear suspension uses a multi-leaf spring pack. Vehicles regularly used at or near GVM with a tray body, canopy, or tow ball loads experience accelerated fatigue in the main and secondary leaves. The spring leaves crack transversely, particularly near the spring eye and U-bolt contact zones. This causes a visible drop in rear ride height, lateral instability under load, and contact between the axle bump stop and chassis under full compression. The MN-generation (ML/MN) vehicles had an ACCC recall for this issue, and the MQ/MR platform shows the same failure mode in high-load use.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visible rear end sag or one side sitting lower than the other when unladen
  • Clunking or banging from the rear suspension over rough surfaces or speed humps
  • Handling instability or rear-end wander when towing or carrying load
  • Cracked or broken individual spring leaves visible on inspection
  • Worn or gouged bump stops indicating the suspension is bottoming out under normal loads

What to check

  1. With the vehicle unladen, measure rear ride height on both sides and compare against front.
  2. Inspect each leaf in the pack for cracks, especially around the U-bolt clamp area and spring eyes.
  3. Look for rubber bump stop contact marks on the axle housing indicating excessive compression.
  4. Check for any lateral drift or wander when the tray or tow ball load is applied.

Where to look: Rear suspension leaf spring packs, both driver and passenger sides

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle regularly carried heavy tray loads or towed at or near maximum capacity?”
  • “Have the rear leaf springs ever been inspected, repaired, or replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever had a lift kit or load-assist spacers fitted?”

07Rear Auxiliary Leaf Spring Centre Bolt Fracture

Examine the auxiliary leaf at the centre bolt hole for cracks, bright fracture surfaces, or displacement from the main pack.2015 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $650–$1,900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The MQ and MR Triton rear suspension uses a multi-leaf spring pack with an auxiliary overload leaf secured to the main pack by a centre bolt. Under repeated load cycling, sustained towing at or near maximum rated capacity, or extended driving on corrugated unsealed roads — conditions common in NZ and rural Australia — the auxiliary leaf develops fatigue stress fractures at or immediately adjacent to the centre bolt hole. A fractured auxiliary leaf produces audible clunking over uneven surfaces, increased rear body sway under payload, and spring pack misalignment that progressively damages adjacent main leaves if undetected. The fault may be missed at a pre-purchase inspection unless the spring packs are examined with the vehicle on a hoist at rest.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking or banging from rear suspension over road imperfections or speed bumps
  • Increased rear body roll or visible sag on one side when loaded or towing
  • Visible crack or lateral offset in rear spring pack leaf alignment
  • Rear suspension bottoming out more readily than expected under normal load
  • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on rear axle

What to check

Examine the auxiliary leaf at the centre bolt hole for cracks, bright fracture surfaces, or displacement from the main pack. Check U-bolt torque and confirm the centre bolt is intact and the pack is properly aligned. If the vehicle has been used for towing or on rural roads, inspect both sides carefully even if only one shows symptoms. If a workshop inspection is possible: Inspect both rear leaf spring packs on a hoist with suspension at rest.

Where to look: Rear axle leaf spring packs, both sides, centred at axle U-bolt and centre bolt

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle been used for towing at or close to its maximum rated capacity?”
  • “Has the vehicle been driven regularly on unsealed, corrugated, or rough roads?”
  • “Has any rear suspension clunking or knocking been noticed or investigated by a workshop?”

08Front Hub Bearing Premature Failure

Spin each wheel by hand and listen for roughness or grinding.2006–2015Suspension
CommonSuspension $400–$900 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Front wheel hub bearings on ML/MN Tritons have a documented tendency to fail earlier than expected, particularly on vehicles used off-road or with larger aftermarket wheel and tyre combinations. The sealed hub bearing units are susceptible to water and mud ingress after off-road use, accelerating wear. A well-documented issue in the NZ and AU Triton community with numerous independent reports.

Symptoms to notice

  • Humming or grinding noise from front wheels increasing with speed
  • Noise changes or disappears when steering left or right at highway speed
  • Vibration through steering wheel

What to check

Spin each wheel by hand and listen for roughness or grinding. Check for signs of grease leakage around hub. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist, grab each front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and rock side to side, then 12 and 6 o'clock to check for bearing play.

Where to look: Front wheel hubs, both sides

Parts involved: Wheel bearing.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle been used off-road in water crossings or mud?”
  • “Have any front wheel bearings been replaced, and if so when?”
  • “Does a humming noise change pitch when you steer left or right at speed?”

09Rear Shock Absorber Bush Collapse

Look for cracked, deformed, or displaced rubber.2015 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $300–$700 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The rear shock absorber mounting bushes on MQ/MR Tritons are prone to premature collapse, particularly on vehicles used off-road or regularly loaded. The rubber bushes deteriorate and deform, allowing the shock to move in its mount and producing a knocking noise over bumps. Widely reported in the MQ/MR Triton community and a common finding at WOF inspections in New Zealand.

Symptoms to notice

  • Knocking or clunking noise from rear over bumps or rough roads
  • Increased body movement over rough terrain
  • Visible cracking or deformation of rubber bush at shock mounting points

What to check

Look for cracked, deformed, or displaced rubber. Push the shock body and check for movement in the mount. This is also a common WOF failure item. If a workshop inspection is possible: With vehicle on a hoist, inspect the upper and lower shock absorber mounting bushes on both rear shocks.

Where to look: Rear suspension, shock absorber upper and lower mount bushes

Parts involved: Shock absorber / strut.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle recently passed a WOF?”
  • “Have the rear shocks or suspension components been replaced?”
  • “Is there any knocking noise from the rear over bumps?”
Fluid leaks1

014D56 Injector Seat O-Ring External Fuel Leak

With engine warm, remove engine cover and inspect each injector body with a torch and clean rag.diesel2005–2015Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Mitsubishi Triton faults in detail

Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

4D56 2.5D Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)Critical · Engine4D56 Injector Seat O-Ring External Fuel LeakMajor · Fluid Leaks4M41 3.2D EGR Valve Carbon CloggingMajor · Engine4N15 2.4 valve clearances tightening up and burning valves with no warning noiseMajor · Engine4N15 2.4D Timing Chain Stretch and Cold-Start RattleCritical · Engine4N15 DPF Clogging on Short Urban TripsMajor · Engine4N15 EGR Housing Coolant Seal FailureMajor · CoolingDPF Blockage from Incomplete Regeneration & Fuel DilutionMajor · EngineEGR Valve & Intake Manifold Carbon Soot BlockageMajor · Engine

Compare the Mitsubishi Triton

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mitsubishi Triton’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Mitsubishi Triton

Other Mitsubishi models

Mitsubishi Outlander47 documented faultsMitsubishi Lancer39 documented faultsMitsubishi Pajero39 documented faultsMitsubishi ASX26 documented faultsMitsubishi Eclipse Cross21 documented faultsMitsubishi Delica D:519 documented faults

Mitsubishi Triton buyer questions

Is the Mitsubishi Triton reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 34 documented faults for the Mitsubishi Triton, the recurring problem areas are body & rust, engine, and electrical. A Mitsubishi Triton with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mitsubishi Triton?

We've catalogued 34 known faults for the Mitsubishi Triton, covering body & rust, engine, and electrical. All 34 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mitsubishi Triton?

Most single repairs on the Mitsubishi Triton fall between $400–$2,000 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 34 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mitsubishi Triton?

Yes. A Mitsubishi Triton inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.