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Mitsubishi1991–2021 Critical issues documented

Mitsubishi Pajero NS: common faults & what to check

The NS is the Mitsubishi Pajero built 2006–2021. It was sold here with the 3.2L diesel (4M41) and 3.8L petrol (6G75). Of the 39 faults documented for the Pajero, 21 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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  • NZ owned and operated

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39

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$600–$3,500

Typical repair

8

Systems covered

You're looking at the NS

2 engine variants are documented for this generation. Pick yours to narrow further, or keep reading for the generation as a whole.

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A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero is the NS generation (2006 to 2021).

Start your free check on this Mitsubishi Pajero

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Mitsubishi Pajero NSEngine not picked yet

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Can't confirm for this car

Mitsubishi Pajero · 2007

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

Tell us the engine, or check the engine code on the car, before relying on this.

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matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Mitsubishi Pajero before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Serious issue

    Grip the tyre at 9 and 3 o'clock and feel for play in the swivel hub bearing.

    See why

    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint and Swivel Hub Bearing Wear

    The Pajero front suspension uses a double-wishbone arrangement with the lower control arm ball joint carrying a significant proportion of the vertical and lateral loads generated by the vehicle's substantial kerbweight and common off-road use. The ball joint boot cracks with age, allowing water and grit ingress that accelerates wear of the ball stud and socket, eventually producing excessive radial and axial play. The swivel hub (steering knuckle) bearing that the hub rotates on is also a known wear point, particularly on vehicles that have been used in water crossings or operated in wet environments without adequate regreasing; worn swivel hub bearings produce a characteristic grinding and vibration that is often misdiagnosed as wheel bearing failure.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking or knocking from the front suspension when driving over bumps or during slow-speed parking manoeuvres
    • Vague or wandering steering feel, particularly at highway speed
    • Uneven or accelerated tyre wear on the inside or outside edges of the front tyres
    • Grinding sensation or noise from one front corner when turning, consistent with swivel hub bearing wear

    Typically $350–$1,800 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    In a safe open area, engage 4H and perform slow tight-radius turns in both directions while on slight throttle.

    See why

    Front Axle Birfield Joint Wear and Clicking Under Load

    The front half-shafts on Super Select 4WD Pajeros use Birfield constant-velocity joints (a sealed ball-and-groove design integral to the shaft) that wear over high mileage, particularly after repeated use in 4WD with steering lock applied. Worn Birfield joints produce a rhythmic clicking or knocking when the wheels are turned and the vehicle is under power. The joints cannot be repacked — the entire front shaft assembly or inner axle must be replaced once the joint is worn beyond specification.

    What you would notice

    • Rhythmic clicking or knocking from the front axle area during slow tight turns in 4WD
    • Noise increases when turning under power and decreases or disappears when coasting
    • Vibration through the steering wheel at low speed in 4WD mode
    • Grease or oil residue on inner faces of front wheels or around axle shaft seals
    • Clunking sound when transitioning between acceleration and deceleration in 4WD

    Typically $700–$2,500 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Inspect the guide pin rubber boots for cracking or missing sections.

    See why

    Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

    The Pajero front and rear disc brake calipers use sliding guide pins that allow the caliper body to float and maintain equal pad pressure on both sides of the rotor. The guide pins are protected by rubber boots, but in the Australasian environment the boots crack with age and UV exposure, allowing moisture and road salt contamination to enter and corrode the pin surface inside the caliper bracket bore. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from sliding freely, causing the inboard brake pad to remain in constant contact with the rotor while the outboard pad barely contacts it at all. This results in severely uneven pad wear, rotor scoring, brake pull, and significantly elevated operating temperatures on the affected corner.

    What you would notice

    • Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, with the pull direction toward the side with the seized caliper
    • One front or rear wheel excessively hot to the touch after a normal drive compared to the opposite side
    • Severely uneven brake pad wear with one pad worn to metal while the opposite pad on the same caliper is near-new
    • Groaning or grinding noise from one corner that persists even when brakes are not applied, caused by constant pad drag

    Typically $150–$550 to put right.

  • Costly issue

    Get under the back of the vehicle (or on a hoist at a pre-purchase inspection) and look for oil spray radiating from where the axles enter the diff.

    See why

    Rear differential side-shaft circlip/flange oil leak leading to diff failure

    A known Mitsubishi fault across third and fourth generation Pajeros: the rear side-shafts can work slightly out of the differential because of a weak circlip/flange design, letting diff oil spray out over the underside. If it runs dry the rear diff is destroyed, turning a cheap circlip and seal fix into a full diff rebuild. Mitsubishi revised the circlip design, but plenty of unmodified diffs are still on the road. Any oil mist pattern around the rear diff and inner wheel area is this fault until proven otherwise.

    What you would notice

    • Oil spray or wet film on the rear diff housing and inside of rear wheels
    • Whining from the rear that rises with speed
    • Clunk from the rear on take-up

    Typically $300–$3,500 to put right.

  • Common issue

    Inspect rear leaf spring shackle bushes for cracking.

    See why

    Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Bush Wear

    Rear leaf spring shackle bushes wear causing rear-end clunking and imprecise handling on the live-axle Pajero.

    What you would notice

    • Clunking from rear suspension over rough terrain and during articulation
    • Imprecise rear handling feel and occasional rear wandering on rough roads

    Typically $300–$800 to put right.

See all 21 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 5 rated critical.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

01Super Select 4WD Transfer Case Actuator Motor Failure

2000 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02NS/NT Transfer Case Actuator Failure Causing Stuck 4LO

2006–2012TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical5

03Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint and Swivel Hub Bearing Wear

Grip the tyre at 9 and 3 o'clock and feel for play in the swivel hub bearing.1999 onwardSuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Front Axle Birfield Joint Wear and Clicking Under Load

In a safe open area, engage 4H and perform slow tight-radius turns in both directions while on slight throttle.2000 onwardSuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Rear Leaf Spring Cracking Under Sustained Load

The long-wheelbase Pajero uses a rear live axle suspended on multi-leaf springs.1999 onwardSuspension
OccasionalSuspension $450–$1,100 to fix

The long-wheelbase Pajero uses a rear live axle suspended on multi-leaf springs. When operated consistently at or near the vehicle's gross vehicle mass — common in touring or towing applications — the main leaf and secondary leaves are subjected to high cyclic stress at the spring eyes and at the point where the leaves bear against the axle pad. Fatigue cracks initiate at these stress concentrations, propagating through the leaf cross-section. A cracked main leaf causes the rear of the vehicle to sag on one side and can ultimately snap under dynamic load, causing sudden loss of ride height and in severe cases the fractured leaf end can contact the tyre or body.

Symptoms to notice

  • Visible rear sag on one side of the vehicle when viewed from behind, particularly after loading
  • Clunking or metallic banging from the rear suspension over corrugations or when the vehicle is loaded
  • Leaf spring pack visibly out of alignment — one leaf sitting displaced from the rest of the pack
  • Tyre rubbing against the body or wheel arch on the affected side under load

What to check

  1. With the vehicle on level ground and unladen, measure the rear ride height on each side and compare — a difference of more than 15mm suggests a broken leaf.
  2. Inspect the full length of each spring pack for hairline cracks, particularly at the centre bolt hole and at the spring eye ends.
  3. Look for displaced leaves where one has slid sideways relative to the rest of the pack, indicating the centre bolt has sheared.
  4. Check the spring eye bushes for severe deterioration.

Where to look: Rear suspension, underside of the vehicle, leaf spring packs running longitudinally from the chassis hangers to the shackles on both sides

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the vehicle been used regularly for towing or heavily loaded touring?”
  • “Have the rear leaf springs ever been replaced or had any individual leaves replaced?”
  • “Is there any noticeable lean or sag on one side of the rear when the vehicle is viewed from behind?”

06Brake Caliper Guide Pin Seizure

Inspect the guide pin rubber boots for cracking or missing sections.1999 onwardBrakes
CommonBrakes $150–$550 to fix

The Pajero front and rear disc brake calipers use sliding guide pins that allow the caliper body to float and maintain equal pad pressure on both sides of the rotor. The guide pins are protected by rubber boots, but in the Australasian environment the boots crack with age and UV exposure, allowing moisture and road salt contamination to enter and corrode the pin surface inside the caliper bracket bore. A seized guide pin prevents the caliper from sliding freely, causing the inboard brake pad to remain in constant contact with the rotor while the outboard pad barely contacts it at all. This results in severely uneven pad wear, rotor scoring, brake pull, and significantly elevated operating temperatures on the affected corner.

Symptoms to notice

  • Vehicle pulls to one side under braking, with the pull direction toward the side with the seized caliper
  • One front or rear wheel excessively hot to the touch after a normal drive compared to the opposite side
  • Severely uneven brake pad wear with one pad worn to metal while the opposite pad on the same caliper is near-new
  • Groaning or grinding noise from one corner that persists even when brakes are not applied, caused by constant pad drag

What to check

Inspect the guide pin rubber boots for cracking or missing sections. Check rotors for deep scoring or a pronounced lip on one side, indicating one-sided contact. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove each wheel and inspect the brake pad thickness differential between the inboard and outboard pads on each caliper — a difference greater than 3mm indicates a seized pin. Attempt to manually slide the caliper body on its guide pins by hand with the vehicle on stands; it should move freely with light finger pressure.

Where to look: Front and rear brake calipers, guide pin bores in the caliper mounting bracket; two pins per caliper, typically an upper and lower

Parts involved: Brake disc and pads.

Ask the seller

  • “When were the brake pads last replaced, and was the pad wear even across all four corners?”
  • “Have the caliper guide pins been cleaned and regreased, and were the boots inspected at that time?”
  • “Does the vehicle pull to one side under normal braking?”

07Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Bush Wear

Inspect rear leaf spring shackle bushes for cracking.1999–2019Suspension
CommonSuspension $300–$800 to fix

Rear leaf spring shackle bushes wear causing rear-end clunking and imprecise handling on the live-axle Pajero.

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking from rear suspension over rough terrain and during articulation
  • Imprecise rear handling feel and occasional rear wandering on rough roads

What to check

  1. Inspect rear leaf spring shackle bushes for cracking.
  2. Rock the rear by pushing down on the towbar — any clunking from the rear indicates worn shackle or spring-eye bushes.

Where to look: Rear leaf spring shackle bushes both sides

Parts involved: Rear leaf spring.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear leaf spring shackle bush been inspected or repaired?”
Fluid leaks1

08Rear differential side-shaft circlip/flange oil leak leading to diff failure

Get under the back of the vehicle (or on a hoist at a pre-purchase inspection) and look for oil spray radiating from where the axles enter the diff.2000–2021Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $300–$3,500 to fix

A known Mitsubishi fault across third and fourth generation Pajeros: the rear side-shafts can work slightly out of the differential because of a weak circlip/flange design, letting diff oil spray out over the underside. If it runs dry the rear diff is destroyed, turning a cheap circlip and seal fix into a full diff rebuild. Mitsubishi revised the circlip design, but plenty of unmodified diffs are still on the road. Any oil mist pattern around the rear diff and inner wheel area is this fault until proven otherwise.

Symptoms to notice

  • Oil spray or wet film on the rear diff housing and inside of rear wheels
  • Whining from the rear that rises with speed
  • Clunk from the rear on take-up

What to check

  1. Get under the back of the vehicle (or on a hoist at a pre-purchase inspection) and look for oil spray radiating from where the axles enter the diff.
  2. Grab each rear side-shaft flange and check for in-out play.
  3. Ask when the diff oil was last changed and whether the level was low.

Where to look: Rear differential and axle flanges, centre of the rear axle

Parts involved: Differential.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the rear diff ever leaked or been resealed?”
  • “Were the updated circlips fitted?”
  • “When was the diff oil last checked?”
Depends on the exact engine — 13 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling11

014M41 3.2 DI-D Injector Cup Seal Failure

Check the engine oil dipstick for a cream or milky appearance indicating coolant contamination.diesel1999–2019Engine
CommonEngine $1,500–$8,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4M41 3.2 diesel injector cups (sleeves pressed into the cylinder head) develop seal failures allowing coolant to leak into the oil or combustion chamber. Symptoms include white steam from exhaust, coolant loss without external leak, and oil with a cream/milky appearance. In severe cases the hydraulic lock from coolant entry causes catastrophic engine damage.

A single common-rail diesel fuel injector photographed against a plain background.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A common-rail diesel injector. Contamination damages the nozzle at the tip.

Panoha · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine oil appears cream or milky on the dipstick indicating coolant mixing with oil
  • White steam from exhaust while driving and unexplained coolant level loss without visible external leak

What to check

  1. Check the engine oil dipstick for a cream or milky appearance indicating coolant contamination.
  2. Check the coolant reservoir for oily residue and unexplained level drops.
  3. Look for white steam from the exhaust while driving.
  4. Scan for coolant temperature irregularities.

Where to look: 4M41 3.2 diesel injector cups in cylinder head

Parts involved: Fuel injector.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 4m41 3.2 di-d injector cup been inspected or repaired?”

026G75 3.8 V6 Timing Belt Tension Roller Failure

Request documented proof of timing belt kit replacement including parts receipt showing tensioner, all idler rollers, and water pump were replaced.petrol2006 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $900–$4,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3.8-litre 6G75 V6 petrol engine fitted to NS through NX Pajeros uses a timing belt rather than a chain. The belt tensioner and idler roller bearings are prone to bearing seizure or collapse at or before the scheduled replacement interval of 100,000 km. When a roller bearing seizes it causes the belt to track incorrectly or shred, and because the 6G75 is an interference engine, even a brief belt slip causes piston-to-valve contact resulting in bent valves and substantial head damage. Failure can be sudden with no warning, or preceded by a squealing noise from the timing belt cover under light acceleration. Many high-mileage examples in NZ and AU have not had the belt kit replaced on schedule, making this a critical pre-purchase check. Full belt kit including tensioner, all idler rollers, and water pump should be replaced as a set.

Symptoms to notice

  • High-pitched squeal from timing belt cover area under light load or on startup
  • Sudden engine stall with no restart (catastrophic belt failure)
  • Engine running rough after attempted restart following belt slip
  • Oil leaks from timing belt cover area if tensioner seal fails alongside roller

What to check

  1. Request documented proof of timing belt kit replacement including parts receipt showing tensioner, all idler rollers, and water pump were replaced.
  2. Verify the mileage at which replacement occurred against current odometer.
  3. Listen carefully with engine running for any squealing from the front of the engine.
  4. If no belt replacement record exists and the vehicle has more than 90,000 km, treat replacement as immediate and factor cost into negotiation.

Where to look: Front of 6G75 engine, behind timing belt cover on passenger side of engine bay

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing belt kit including tensioner and idler rollers been replaced, and can you show me the receipt?”
  • “What mileage was the vehicle at when the belt kit was last done?”
  • “Has there ever been a squealing noise from the front of the engine?”

034M41 Timing Chain Tensioner Wear at High Mileage

Start the engine cold and listen immediately from the front of the engine for a metallic chain slap or rattle before oil pressure builds.diesel2000 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $1,400–$3,800 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 3.2 DI-D 4M41 engine uses a hydraulic timing chain tensioner that relies on adequate oil pressure and viscosity to maintain chain tension. At high mileage, typically above 200,000 km, the tensioner ratchet pawl and its spring wear, reducing the tensioner's ability to take up chain slack when oil pressure is low at cold start. The resulting chain rattle on a cold morning clears within 30 to 60 seconds as oil pressure builds. If ignored, chain wear accelerates and the risk of chain jump increases, which can cause severe valve-to-piston contact on this interference engine. Neglected oil changes and use of low-viscosity oil outside Mitsubishi specification significantly accelerate tensioner and chain wear. The tensioner itself is inexpensive but the labour to access it correctly is substantial.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Loud chain rattle from front of engine on cold start, clearing after 30-60 seconds
  • Rattle audible at idle that worsens in cold weather
  • Check engine light with camshaft or crankshaft position correlation faults
  • Rough idle that improves as engine warms

What to check

  1. Start the engine cold and listen immediately from the front of the engine for a metallic chain slap or rattle before oil pressure builds.
  2. Rattle lasting more than 15 seconds is a red flag.
  3. Pull the oil filler cap with engine warm and running to observe cam timing marks if accessible, or request a workshop inspection of timing chain tension via the tensioner access point.
  4. Check service history for oil change interval compliance.

Where to look: Front of 4M41 engine, timing chain cover on driver-side of engine block

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the engine rattle on cold start and how long does it last?”
  • “What oil viscosity and brand has been used and how often has it been changed?”
  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been replaced or inspected?”

04V5A51 5-Speed Automatic Transmission Valve Body and Solenoid Wear

2000 onwardTransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05Common-rail 4M41 injector failure and suction control valve surging (NS-NX)

On the test drive hold a steady 80-100 km/h and feel for rhythmic surging (SCV).diesel2006–2021EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

064M41 EGR Cooler Cracking and Coolant Loss

Check coolant reservoir for unexplained level drops.diesel1999–2019Cooling
CommonCooling $1,200–$4,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4M41 EGR cooler cracks internally allowing engine coolant to enter the EGR system and ultimately the intake manifold. Symptoms include white smoke from exhaust, loss of coolant, and a rough idle from coolant reaching the combustion chambers.

Symptoms to notice

  • White smoke from exhaust under acceleration from coolant entering combustion chambers
  • Unexplained coolant level drop in reservoir without visible external coolant puddle

What to check

  1. Check coolant reservoir for unexplained level drops.
  2. Look for white smoke under hard acceleration.
  3. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the EGR cooler inspection plug and check for coolant residue inside the cooler body.

Where to look: EGR cooler on diesel engine, connected to exhaust and intake manifold

Parts involved: EGR valve.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the 4m41 egr cooler cracking and been inspected or repaired?”

074M41 3.2D Engine Oil Cooler O-ring Failure and Coolant Contamination

Pull the oil dipstick and look for a milky or frothy residue.diesel2006 onwardCoolingRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

084M41 3.2D Injector Copper Washer Blow-out and O-ring Failure

Smell the oil filler cap for diesel odour.diesel2000 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09NS/NT EGR Valve Sticking Causing Rough Idle & Smoke

Request a live data scan for EGR valve position and flow codes.diesel2006–2012EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

104M41 and 4D56 Diesel EGR Valve and Inlet Manifold Carbon Fouling

If accessible, inspect the EGR valve for carbon buildup or a stuck-open position.diesel2000 onwardEngine
Very commonEngine $300–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

Recirculated exhaust gases deposit a thick, oily carbon sludge in the EGR valve passages and inlet manifold runners of the 4M41 3.2D and 4D56 2.5D engines. Over time, this buildup restricts airflow into the cylinders, reducing combustion efficiency and power output. The EGR valve can stick open (causing rough idle and smoke) or closed (triggering an EGR fault code and check engine light). Vehicles used predominantly for short urban trips accumulate deposits fastest.

Symptoms to notice

  • Black or blue smoke at idle that clears during highway driving
  • Progressive loss of power and throttle response over months
  • Rough or lumpy idle, especially when the engine is fully warm
  • Check engine light with EGR-related fault codes (P0401, P0404)
  • Visible black sludge inside intake hose or intercooler pipe

What to check

If accessible, inspect the EGR valve for carbon buildup or a stuck-open position. Scan for fault codes: P0401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P0404 (EGR valve range/performance) are common. A smoky idle that clears on the highway is a classic symptom. If a workshop inspection is possible: Remove the intake hose between the air filter and turbo and inspect for thick black sludge coating — heavy fouling indicates EGR deposits throughout the intake tract.

Where to look: EGR valve on intake manifold, driver's side of engine

Parts involved: Intake manifold, EGR valve.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the EGR valve and inlet manifold ever been cleaned or replaced?”
  • “Does the engine produce any smoke at idle or under light load?”
  • “Has there ever been a check engine light related to the EGR or emissions system?”

11Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Shudder

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration.1999–2019Transmission
CommonTransmission $400–$2,500 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

5-speed automatic develops torque converter lock-up clutch shudder under light throttle at highway cruise.

A cutaway automatic transmission torque converter showing the internal turbine and stator.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A torque converter, sectioned. The lock-up clutch inside is what shudders.

No machine-readable author provided. BerndB~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic vibration at highway speed under light throttle
  • Shudder clears under firm acceleration

What to check

Test drive at 80-100 km/h with very light throttle and feel for rhythmic vibration. ATF condition — brown fluid indicates degraded fluid.

Where to look: Automatic transmission and torque converter

Parts involved: Torque converter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the automatic transmission torque converter shudder been inspected or repaired?”
Electrical1

01Instrument cluster temperature gauge fault masking overheating (3.5/3.8 V6)

Watch the temperature gauge from cold - it should rise steadily to just under halfway and sit there.petrol2000–2008Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $300–$1,200 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

A known fault on this era of Pajero is a failing chip on the instrument cluster circuit board that makes the temperature gauge read incorrectly or sit dead - dangerous on the 6G74/6G75 petrol V6s, which do not tolerate overheating and can crack cylinder heads if cooked. Owners towing with a faulty gauge have no warning until steam appears. The petrol V6s also weep oil from hardened rocker cover, cam and spark plug tube seals, which fouls plugs and is fiddly to reseal properly.

Symptoms to notice

  • Temperature gauge stuck low, erratic, or never moving
  • Oil weeps around the rocker covers
  • Misfire from oil-fouled spark plug tubes

What to check

  1. Watch the temperature gauge from cold - it should rise steadily to just under halfway and sit there.
  2. A gauge that never moves is a red flag, not a bonus.
  3. Pull a plug lead cover and look for oil around the spark plug tubes; check rocker cover edges for weeps.

Where to look: Instrument cluster behind the steering wheel; rocker covers on top of the V6

Parts involved: Cylinder head, Rocker / valve cover.

Ask the seller

  • “Does the temperature gauge work correctly and has the cluster ever been repaired?”
  • “Has it ever overheated or had head work?”
  • “When were the rocker cover and plug tube seals last done?”
Fluid leaks1

01Timing chain guide wear and timing case oil/coolant leaks (4M41, NS-NX)

Listen at the front of the engine on a cold start for chain rattle in the first seconds.diesel2006–2021Fluid Leaks
OccasionalFluid Leaks $2,000–$6,000 to fix

Can't confirm for this car

The 4M41's upper timing chain guide wears thin with age; pieces can break off, jam the chain and let it jump teeth, which puts the engine out of time and can cause major damage. Separately, the front timing case is notorious for oil leaks that are expensive to fix because the case is buried behind the radiator and accessories - and a botched reseal can let coolant into the oil. A rattly chain at cold start or long-standing oil weep from behind the crank pulley both point to a big front-of-engine job.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle from the front of the engine at cold start
  • Oil weep trail from behind the crank pulley / bottom of the timing case
  • Milky oil on the dipstick after timing case work
  • Engine running rough or not starting after chain jump

What to check

  1. Listen at the front of the engine on a cold start for chain rattle in the first seconds.
  2. Look up behind the crank pulley with a torch for wet oil staining down the sump.
  3. Ask specifically whether the timing chain, guides and front case seal have ever been done - on a 200,000 km truck with no history, price the job into your offer.

Where to look: Front of engine behind the radiator and crank pulley

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain and guides ever been replaced?”
  • “Is there any oil leak from the front of the engine?”
  • “Was coolant ever found in the oil?”
Other Mitsubishi Pajero engines and years18 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling14

016G74 3.5L V6 Balance Shaft Belt Failure and Engine Destruction

The 6G74 3.5-litre V6 petrol engine uses a secondary inner belt to drive the balance shafts, running in the same timing chest as the main cambelt.petrol2000–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

026G72 3.0L V6 Balance Shaft Belt Failure — Oil Pump Drive and Engine Seizure

Confirm with the seller and in service records that BOTH the timing belt AND balance shaft belt were replaced together.petrol1991–1999EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

036G74 Timing Belt Failure on Interference Engine

Ask for documented evidence of a timing belt replacement with mileage recorded.petrol2000–2004EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

046G74 3.5L V6 DOHC Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

Request full service history and verify timing belt replacement with workshop receipts noting mileage.petrol1999–2006Engine
OccasionalEngine $900–$5,500 to fix

Does not apply

The 6G74 3.5L DOHC V6 fitted to petrol Gen 3 Pajeros is an interference engine with a cam-driven timing belt requiring scheduled replacement. Failure of the belt, tensioner, or idler causes piston-to-valve contact and complete engine destruction. The DOHC arrangement means four cam sprockets must align correctly on reassembly, making this a complex specialist job. Belt services are frequently deferred on higher-mileage examples, particularly those with no service history.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine cranks but fails to start suddenly
  • Loss of power followed by engine cut-out at speed
  • Rattling from the timing cover area before failure
  • Misfires on multiple cylinders just prior to belt failure

What to check

Request full service history and verify timing belt replacement with workshop receipts noting mileage. If no record exists, budget for immediate replacement including tensioner, both idler pulleys, and the water pump. The upper timing cover can be removed to inspect belt condition and tensioner spring pressure.

Where to look: Front of engine, behind upper and lower timing covers on the passenger side

Parts involved: Timing belt.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last replaced and at what mileage?”
  • “Do you have a workshop receipt showing the belt change?”
  • “Were the tensioners and idler pulleys replaced at the same time?”

056G72 3.0L V6 Timing Belt Failure (Interference Engine)

Ask for documented timing belt replacement history with workshop receipts.petrol1991–1999EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

064M41 3.2L DI-D Common Rail Injector Seizure and Carbon Fouling

Start the engine from cold and listen for injector rattle that settles as the engine warms — a rattle that persists suggests a failing injector.diesel1999–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

07DPF blockage and failed regeneration (NX with diesel particulate filter)

Ask for a live-data scan showing DPF soot load and regeneration interval before buying.diesel2016–2021Engine
OccasionalEngine $1,500–$6,500 to fix

Does not apply

Late NX Pajeros gained a diesel particulate filter, and Australian owners report DPF failures before 130,000 km with replacement bills over NZ$6,000 at dealers. Suburban short-trip driving never gets the exhaust hot enough to regenerate, so soot accumulates until the filter blocks, putting the engine into limp mode. Forum consensus among AU buyers is to either confirm a healthy DPF with a diagnostic scan or buy the pre-DPF NW model. Aftermarket DPFs and specialist cleaning bring the cost down substantially versus a genuine dealer filter.

Symptoms to notice

  • DPF warning light on the dash
  • Frequent active regenerations (fans running, hot smell, raised idle)
  • Rising fuel consumption
  • Limp mode with reduced power

What to check

  1. Ask for a live-data scan showing DPF soot load and regeneration interval before buying.
  2. Ask what sort of driving the car does - a city-only NX is the risk profile.
  3. After the test drive, note any hot acrid smell under the car indicating a regen was running.

Where to look: Exhaust system under the vehicle, downstream of the turbo

Parts involved: Diesel particulate filter.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the DPF ever been cleaned, replaced or had fault codes?”
  • “What percentage soot load does a scan show now?”
  • “Is the car used for regular open-road running?”

08Super Select 4WD Transfer Case Bearing Wear and Output Seal Leaks

During the test drive at highway speed listen and feel for a constant drone or vibration from the drivetrain.1999–2006Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $1,500–$4,500 to fix

Does not apply

The Super Select 4WD transfer case on Gen 3 Pajeros develops bearing noise and play at high mileage, typically presenting above 180,000 km. Front and rear output bearings wear first, producing a speed-related drone or vibration through the floor. Oil seals typically fail alongside bearing wear, resulting in fluid loss from the transfer case output flanges. Full transfer case rebuild or replacement is required; parts availability can be limited and the labour to remove and reinstall the unit is extensive.

Symptoms to notice

  • Droning or humming noise that varies with road speed
  • Vibration felt through the floor at highway speed
  • Noise changes character or reduces when cornering gently
  • Oil residue or weeping around transfer case output flanges
  • Notchy or stiff engagement of 4WD mode selector

What to check

During the test drive at highway speed listen and feel for a constant drone or vibration from the drivetrain. Vary speed and note whether the noise tracks with speed. Inspect underneath for oil residue around both transfer case output flanges. Check transfer case oil level at the fill plug. Engage and disengage all 4WD modes at low speed and confirm smooth switching.

Where to look: Transfer case behind the gearbox, mounted centrally under the floor

Parts involved: Transfer case.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the transfer case oil been serviced and changed at regular intervals?”
  • “Is there any noise or vibration at highway speed?”
  • “Has the 4WD system been tested and confirmed fully functional recently?”

094D56 2.5L Diesel Head Gasket Failure and Head Bolt Stretch

Check the coolant reservoir for an oily film or bubbling when the engine is at operating temperature.diesel1991–1999EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

103.2 DiD (4M41) injector wear and fuel pump problems (NM/NP)

Cold-start the engine yourself - ask the seller not to warm it up first.diesel2000–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

114M40 2.8L Turbo Diesel Injector Pump Failure (Bosch/Zexel VE Rotary Pump)

Start the engine from cold and observe ease of starting and idle quality.diesel1993–1999EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

124M41 3.2L DI-D EGR Valve Sticking and Inlet Manifold Carbon Build-Up

Inspect the EGR valve for carbon fouling — the valve butterfly should move freely.diesel1999–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

134M40 2.8L EGR System Carbon Clogging and Inlet Manifold Restriction

Shine a torch into the inlet manifold to check for carbon lining or near-blockage.diesel1993–1999EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

14NM/NP 4M41 Intercooler Pipe Split at Boost Clamp

With engine cold, squeeze and inspect all intercooler hoses for cracks, hardening, or splits particularly at each clamp location.diesel2000–2006EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior3

01Rust from blocked drainage channels in front guards, sills and door bottoms (NM/NP)

Lift the carpet edges in the front footwells and feel for damp.2000–2006Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Rear Wheel Arch Lip and Sill Seam Rust

Crouch beside each rear wheel arch and press the arch lip firmly with your thumb — any crunch, flex, or collapse indicates active rust.1991–1999Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03Rear door rust under the door rubbers (NT recall)

Open both rear doors and peel back the rubber seals along the lower door frame and sill - look for brown staining or bubbling underneath.2008–2012Body & Rust
OccasionalBody & Rust $300–$2,000 to fix

Does not apply

NT-series Pajeros had a corrosion problem where rust develops under the rubber seals of the rear passenger doors, hidden until the rubber is lifted. There was a recall/service campaign in Australia for affected vehicles, but cars that missed it can have rot quietly spreading along the door bottoms and frames. It is cosmetic at first but becomes a panel repair or door replacement if ignored, and hidden rust anywhere invites closer WOF scrutiny.

Symptoms to notice

  • Bubbling or staining along rear door edges
  • Rust visible when the door rubber is peeled back
  • Paint blistering at the bottom corners of rear doors

What to check

  1. Open both rear doors and peel back the rubber seals along the lower door frame and sill - look for brown staining or bubbling underneath.
  2. Check the VIN with Mitsubishi for the corrosion campaign having been done.

Where to look: Rear passenger door frames and bottoms, under the weather seals

Parts involved: Body corrosion.

Ask the seller

  • “Was the door corrosion recall/campaign carried out?”
  • “Any rust repairs done on the doors?”
Fluid leaks1

01Transfer Case Front Output Seal Leak — Front Propshaft Oil Loss

Check the front propshaft for an oily coating.1991–1999Fluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Mitsubishi Pajero faults in detail

Narrowed to the Mitsubishi Pajero · 2007. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

4M41 3.2D Engine Oil Cooler O-ring Failure and Coolant ContaminationMajor · Cooling4M41 3.2D Injector Copper Washer Blow-out and O-ring FailureMajor · EngineCommon-rail 4M41 injector failure and suction control valve surging (NS-NX)Major · EngineFront Axle Birfield Joint Wear and Clicking Under LoadMajor · SuspensionFront Lower Control Arm Ball Joint and Swivel Hub Bearing WearCritical · SuspensionNS/NT EGR Valve Sticking Causing Rough Idle & SmokeMajor · EngineNS/NT Transfer Case Actuator Failure Causing Stuck 4LOMajor · TransmissionSuper Select 4WD Transfer Case Actuator Motor FailureMajor · TransmissionV5A51 5-Speed Automatic Transmission Valve Body and Solenoid WearMajor · Transmission

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Mitsubishi Pajero’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Other Mitsubishi models

Mitsubishi Outlander47 documented faultsMitsubishi Lancer39 documented faultsMitsubishi Triton34 documented faultsMitsubishi ASX26 documented faultsMitsubishi Eclipse Cross21 documented faultsMitsubishi Delica D:519 documented faults

Mitsubishi Pajero buyer questions

Is the Mitsubishi Pajero reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 39 documented faults for the Mitsubishi Pajero, the recurring problem areas are engine, fluid leaks, and suspension. A Mitsubishi Pajero with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Mitsubishi Pajero?

We've catalogued 39 known faults for the Mitsubishi Pajero, covering engine, fluid leaks, and suspension. All 39 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Mitsubishi Pajero?

Most single repairs on the Mitsubishi Pajero fall between $600–$3,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 39 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Mitsubishi Pajero?

Yes. A Mitsubishi Pajero inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.