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Nissan1997–2021 Critical issues documented

Nissan Navara D22: common faults & what to check

The D22 is the Nissan Navara built 1997–2015. Of the 45 faults documented for the Navara, 5 apply to this generation, each with its symptoms, what to inspect and a typical repair cost. Free, no account needed.

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  • Odometer history
  • Money owing
  • Reported stolen
  • Ownership history
  • Official NZ vehicle register data
  • NZ owned and operated

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45

Documented faults

Critical

Most serious

$800–$3,500

Typical repair

7

Systems covered

You're looking at the D22

Everything below is narrowed to this variant. Pick a different one to change it.

Choose a different generation

Now narrow it to the engine

A 1.8 and a 2.4 of the same car do not fail the same way, so the faults below narrow to the engine as well as the year. Free, no account needed.

A 1999 Nissan Navara is the D22 generation (1997 to 2015).

We cannot narrow the engine list to this year, so every engine this model was sold with is offered.

Start your free check on this Nissan Navara

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Nissan Navara D22Engine not picked yet

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Can't confirm for this car

Nissan Navara · 1999

Narrowed to the year. No engine is recorded for this vehicle. Pick an engine to see which faults apply.

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  • No engine is recorded for this vehicle.

matched on year only

What to look out for

The checks worth doing on a Nissan Navara before you hand over any money. Every documented fault is listed below, each with its own page.

  • Costly issue

    Check both ends of the rear axle housing where the axle shafts emerge — fresh gear oil here indicates failed shaft seals.

    See why

    D22 and D40 Rear Differential Pinion and Axle Oil Seal Weeping

    Both the D22 and D40 Navara use a conventional solid rear axle with hypoid bevel gear differential. The pinion oil seal (at the front of the differential where the propeller shaft connects) and the inner axle shaft seals are known to weep gear oil over time, particularly once odometer readings pass 150,000 km. Weeping pinion seals contaminate the rear brakes — a safety-critical failure mode — while axle seal leaks allow gear oil to saturate the brake drum linings, significantly reducing braking performance.

    What you would notice

    • Gear oil residue or wet film visible on the rear axle housing near brake drum or at the differential pinion flange
    • Rear brake fade or pulling to one side under braking — indicating oil-contaminated brake shoes
    • Differential oil level low on check with no visible pooling under the vehicle
    • Burning gear oil smell from the rear of the vehicle after driving

    Typically $200–$700 to put right.

See all 5 issues for this oneDocumented for the exact year and engine you picked, including 1 rated critical.
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1 critical1

01D22 chassis rail corrosion behind the cab and at the front rear-spring mount

1997–2004Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Fluid leaks1

02D22 and D40 Rear Differential Pinion and Axle Oil Seal Weeping

Check both ends of the rear axle housing where the axle shafts emerge — fresh gear oil here indicates failed shaft seals.1997 onwardFluid LeaksRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Depends on the exact engine — 3 moreDocumented for a specific engine we could not confirm from what you picked. Check the engine code on the car.
Engine, transmission & cooling2

01TD27T Injection Pump Wear and Fuel Delivery Failure

Test cold starting – engine should fire within 3–5 seconds after glow plug warm-up cycle.diesel1997–2001EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02Timing chain tensioner and guide wear — cold-start rattle (2.4 KA24E / KA24DE)

petrol1997–2008EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Body, brakes, suspension & interior1

01D22 KA24DE Front Coil Spring Fatigue Cracking

Check for rust pitting at cracks.petrol1997–2015SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Other Nissan Navara engines and years40 documented issues that do not apply to the one you picked.
Engine, transmission & cooling27

01ZD30DDTi Cracked Piston and Head Gasket Failure

Check coolant header tank for oil contamination or brown emulsification.diesel2001–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02YD25DDTi Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Catastrophic Failure

Check oil level and condition before anything else – this failure is strongly correlated with low or degraded oil.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03YD25DDTi Cracked Cylinder Head and Coolant Loss

Check coolant reservoir for brown oily contamination.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04ZD30DDTi Head Bolt Stretch and Head Gasket Failure

Remove oil filler cap and inspect underside for creamy emulsion.diesel2001–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

05D23 NP300 YS23DDT DPF Regen Oil Dilution

Pull the oil dipstick and smell it — diesel odour from the oil confirms dilution.diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06D40 radiator's internal transmission cooler leaking coolant into the automatic gearbox

2005–2015Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $800–$8,000 to fix

Does not apply

The automatic D40 uses a different radiator to the manual: the gearbox oil cooler is a small tube built into the bottom tank of the radiator, with engine coolant on one side and transmission fluid on the other. When that internal tube cracks, coolant is pushed straight into the transmission and mixes with the fluid, giving the thick pink sludge owners call the strawberry milkshake. Coolant destroys the friction material on the clutch packs and the seals inside the gearbox, and a transmission that has run on contaminated fluid is usually finished even if the radiator is replaced afterwards. It is quiet while it happens - the coolant level drops with no puddle on the ground, and nothing drips onto the driveway, so it looks nothing like an ordinary transmission fluid leak - which is why the dipstick tells you long before the gearbox does. Owners who have been through it once fit an external cooler and bypass the radiator entirely.

Symptoms to notice

  • Thick pink, milky or coffee-coloured sludge on the automatic transmission dipstick instead of clear red fluid
  • Coolant level in the overflow bottle dropping with no leak visible on the ground
  • Oily film, pink froth or scum floating on the coolant in the expansion tank
  • Harsh, slipping or flaring gear changes, or the gearbox refusing to change up
  • Transmission warning light, or the gearbox locking itself into one gear

What to check

  1. With the engine cold, pull the automatic transmission dipstick and wipe it on a white tissue or a clean rag: healthy fluid is clear red and smells oily, while pink, milky or coffee-coloured fluid means coolant has got in and the gearbox is already being destroyed.
  2. Look into the coolant expansion tank level with your phone torch and check the surface for an oily film, pink froth or scum, which is the same mixing seen from the other side.
  3. Ask the seller whether the coolant has ever needed topping up, and whether the radiator has ever been replaced and why.
  4. On the test drive, feel for slurred, flaring or delayed upshifts once everything is warm, and for the gearbox hanging onto a gear longer than it should.
  5. Ask for receipts showing the transmission fluid has been changed, and ask whether an external transmission cooler has been fitted, because that is what owners fit after this has already happened once.

Where to look: The transmission oil cooler is built into the bottom tank of the radiator, at the front of the engine bay behind the grille. The transmission dipstick and the coolant expansion bottle are both reachable with the bonnet up.

Parts involved: Radiator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the radiator ever been replaced, and if so when and why?”
  • “Has the automatic transmission fluid ever come out pink, milky or brown?”
  • “Has an external transmission cooler been fitted, and what prompted it?”
  • “Has the coolant level needed topping up between services?”

07YD25DDTi High-Pressure Fuel Pump and Injector Failure

Scan for fault codes, particularly P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low) or P1272/P1273 injector balance codes.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08D40 YD25DDTi Head Gasket Failure Between Bores

Perform a combustion leak (block) test on the coolant reservoir — a positive result confirms exhaust gas in coolant.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09D40 4.0 V6 petrol (VQ40DE) timing chain guide and tensioner wear

This one is only for the 4.0-litre VQ40DE V6 petrol D40, not the four-cylinder diesels.petrol2009–2010EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

10D40 YD25DDTi Timing Chain Tensioner Failure and Chain Rattle

The YD25DDTi engine uses a single-row primary timing chain with a hydraulic tensioner that is known to lose oil pressure retention over time.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

11YS23DDT Diesel Particulate Filter Internal Cracking

Connect OBD2 scanner and check for active or stored DPF pressure fault codes.diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

12D40 RE5R05A Torque Converter Lock-Up Shudder

Drive at steady 80 km/h on light throttle in overdrive and hold — shudder indicates TCC slip.diesel2005–2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

13ZD30DDTi Excessive Oil Consumption and Piston Ring Failure

Check oil level and note colour — dark black oil suggests extended intervals.diesel2001–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

147-Speed Automatic Transmission Harsh Shifting and Shudder

Drive in stop-start urban traffic and assess smoothness of gear changes.diesel2015–2021Transmission
OccasionalTransmission $300–$5,500 to fix

Does not apply

Early D23 Navaras with the 7-speed automatic gearbox exhibited harsh, jerky gear engagement in low-speed urban driving. Owners and fleet operators reported abrupt downshifts, lurching on takeoff, and difficulty managing smooth throttle. Nissan issued multiple TCU software calibration updates to partially address the behaviour. Vehicles that have not received the latest software update retain the problem; vehicles where symptoms persist after the update may have mechanical clutch pack wear.

Symptoms to notice

  • Harsh or clunky gear changes at low speed
  • Lurching on take-off from rest
  • Abrupt unexpected downshifts
  • Shudder at light throttle in low gears

What to check

Drive in stop-start urban traffic and assess smoothness of gear changes. The gearbox should not lurch or bang when changing down. Ask whether the TCU software has been updated at a Nissan dealer. Persistent harshness after a confirmed software update suggests mechanical clutch pack wear.

Where to look: 7-speed automatic gearbox mounted beneath the cab

Parts involved: Clutch.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the transmission control unit software been updated at a Nissan dealer?”
  • “Does the gearbox shift smoothly in slow urban traffic?”
  • “Has the transmission fluid been changed and at what interval?”

15ZD30DDTi Timing Chain Stretch and Guide Wear

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for chain rattle from the upper front of the engine.diesel2001–2015Engine
CommonEngine $2,200–$5,000 to fix

Does not apply

The ZD30DDTi timing chain and plastic guides are prone to premature stretch, particularly in vehicles with infrequent oil changes. Chain stretch causes timing retardation, cold-start rattle, and in severe cases allows the chain to jump a tooth, leading to valve-to-piston contact. The failure is progressive – early rattle is a clear warning that is often ignored until the chain skips.

The front of a dual overhead camshaft engine with the timing cover removed, exposing the timing chain and sprockets.Example of the part — not this vehicle

The front of a twin-cam engine with the timing cover off — chain, sprockets and guides.

Logansenf · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattling from engine top-end on cold start that may clear after warm-up
  • Rough idle particularly when cold
  • Check engine light with camshaft or crankshaft timing correlation codes
  • Slightly elevated fuel consumption

What to check

Cold-start the engine from fully cold and listen immediately for chain rattle from the upper front of the engine. Connect an OBD2 scanner and check for cam/crank position fault codes. Ask about oil change intervals – extended drain intervals are the primary cause of accelerated guide wear.

Where to look: Front upper engine – timing chain, tensioner, and plastic guides behind the timing cover

Parts involved: Timing chain.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the timing chain or tensioner ever been replaced or inspected?”
  • “What are the oil change intervals and what oil specification is used?”
  • “Has the check engine light appeared with cam sensor or timing codes?”

16YS23DDT DPF Clogging on Short Urban Trips

Scan ECU for DPF soot load percentage and stored DPF fault codes.diesel2015 onwardEngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

17D40 Transfer Case Chain Rattle and 4WD Engagement Failure

With the vehicle in neutral and engine at idle, engage 4WD modes sequentially and listen for chain rattle or mechanical whirring.2005–2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

18ZD30DDTi Turbocharger Failure and Oil Starvation

Inspect inside the compressor housing for scoring marks.diesel2001–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

19D40 YD25 Dual-Mass Flywheel (DMF) Failure

With the engine at idle and in neutral, depress the clutch and listen for the rattle to disappear — this isolates the DMF as the noise source.diesel2005–2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

20YD25DDTi DPF Clogging and Regeneration Failure

A soot load above 80% indicates imminent blockage.diesel2008–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

21YD25DDTi EGR Valve and Inlet Manifold Carbon Clogging

Inspect intercooler inlet and outlet rubber boots for oily black carbon residue.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

22Cracked exhaust manifolds and snapped manifold studs (3.3 V6 VG33E)

The 3.3 petrol V6's cast exhaust manifolds are a notorious weak point: heat cycling cracks them and snaps the manifold studs.petrol2002–2006Engine
Very commonEngine $600–$1,800 to fix

Does not apply

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The 3.3 petrol V6's cast exhaust manifolds are a notorious weak point: heat cycling cracks them and snaps the manifold studs. The truck develops an exhaust tick on cold start that fades as the metal expands, plus exhaust smell and a slowly louder note; studs snapped off flush in the head turn a cheap gasket job into hours of extraction work. The same failure is documented as very common across the US-market D22 (Frontier) and Xterra running the identical engine.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rhythmic ticking from the engine bay on cold start that fades as it warms
  • Exhaust smell around the engine bay or drifting into the cab
  • Exhaust note louder under load than a stock truck should be

What to check

Start the engine stone cold with the bonnet open and listen for a rhythmic tick from either side of the engine that fades over the first minutes — that fade is a manifold crack closing as it heats. Sniff for exhaust smell around the bay and at the base of the windscreen. Use a phone torch along each manifold to look for black soot streaks at cracks and for missing or broken stud nuts. If a workshop inspection is possible: the manifolds can be inspected properly from below and any snapped studs counted — studs seized in the head are what blow the price out.

Where to look: Exhaust manifolds on both sides of the V6, visible from above with a torch

Parts involved: Exhaust manifold.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the exhaust manifolds or studs ever been replaced?”
  • “Does it tick when started cold?”

23Crank harmonic balancer failure: rattle, wobble or slipping (2.3 YS23DDT / YS23DDTT diesel, D23 NP300)

diesel2015 onwardEngine
OccasionalEngine $600–$1,500 to fix

Does not apply

On the D23 NP300 Navara with the 2.3 YS23 diesel (single or twin turbo), the crankshaft harmonic balancer on the front of the engine can fail well before high kilometres. Workshop cases show it running out of true with a rattle that sounds like a timing chain at idle, or slipping so the alternator stops charging and the power steering goes heavy. The fix is a new balancer, and there is no recall or extended warranty.

Symptoms to notice

  • Rattle at idle that sounds like a timing chain
  • Front crank pulley visibly wobbling with the engine running
  • Battery or charging warning light while driving
  • Steering suddenly goes heavy
  • Squeal or flapping from the drive belt

What to check

  1. With the bonnet up and the engine idling, use a phone torch to look at the big pulley at the bottom front of the engine: it should spin true with no wobble, and the belt should not flutter.
  2. Listen for a rattle at idle that goes away with a little throttle.
  3. Check that the battery light goes out after starting and stays out on the test drive, and that the steering is light at parking speed.
  4. Ask whether the harmonic balancer or crank pulley has ever been replaced.
  5. If a workshop inspection is possible: check the balancer for rubber separation or a shifted outer ring, and check charging voltage at idle.

Where to look: Front of the engine, bottom pulley on the crankshaft that drives the accessory belt

Parts involved: Steering rack, Timing chain, Alternator.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the harmonic balancer or crank pulley been replaced, and at what kilometres?”
  • “Has the battery light ever come on or the steering gone heavy while driving?”
  • “Has the engine ever been checked for a rattle at idle?”

24D40 Automatic Transmission Cooler Line Fatigue and ATF Leak

With engine warm and ATF at operating temperature, inspect the full run of both transmission cooler lines from the transmission body to the cooler.2005–2015TransmissionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

25Timing belt and water pump service overdue on ageing examples (3.3 V6 VG33E)

Unlike the chain-driven four-cylinder, the 3.3 V6 drives its cams by toothed belt, with the water pump run by the same belt.petrol2002–2006Engine
CommonEngine $700–$1,300 to fix

Does not apply

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

Unlike the chain-driven four-cylinder, the 3.3 V6 drives its cams by toothed belt, with the water pump run by the same belt. The US schedule for this engine is a belt every 105,000 miles (about 170,000 km) or 7 years, and most of these trucks are now on an unknown or overdue belt. A snapped belt stops the truck dead wherever it happens, and published sources disagree on whether the pistons then meet the valves — several engine references list it as an interference design — so an overdue belt should be treated as a must-do, not a maybe. Belt, tensioner and water pump are replaced together.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warning before failure — the engine simply stops if the belt lets go
  • Squeak or rumble from the belt area as the tensioner or pump bearing wears
  • Coolant weep from behind the belt covers as the pump ages

What to check

  1. Ask for the invoice for the last timing belt and water pump — the date matters as much as the kilometres, and no proof means the job is due now and belongs in the price.
  2. Look for a belt-change sticker under the bonnet or in the service book.
  3. Listen at idle for rumble or squeak from the belt side of the engine and check for coolant staining below the pump area.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: the belt covers can come off to read the belt's actual condition and check tensioner and water pump play.

Where to look: Front of the engine behind the plastic covers — timing belt, tensioner and water pump

Parts involved: Timing belt, Water pump.

Ask the seller

  • “When was the timing belt last done — date and kilometres, with an invoice?”
  • “Was the water pump replaced with it?”

26D40 YD25 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Failure and Limp Mode

Scan the ECM for fault codes — a functional fuel rail pressure sensor fault typically stores P0191 (fuel rail pressure too low), P0192, or P0193.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

27YD25DDTi Intercooler Hose Boost Leak

With the engine at idle, carefully run a hand along each intercooler hose to feel for air escaping.diesel2005–2015EngineRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller
Electrical4

01D23 Navara ignition switch recall: engine can cut out while driving (2016 to 2017 key-start models)

Ask the seller whether Nissan recall RT031 (ignition switch) has been done and look for a dealer invoice or recall record.2016–2017Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $0–$600 to fix

Does not apply

Some 2016 and 2017 D23 Navaras, including the 2.3 twin-turbo diesel, were recalled because a spring inside the mechanical key ignition switch may have a manufacturing defect. After long use the switch can turn the engine off while driving, and if a crash happens at the same moment the airbags may not work. The recall (Australian recall REC-001113, PRA 2018/17085, Nissan campaign RT031) is an inspection and, if needed, a free replacement of the ignition switch at a Nissan dealer. Recall work is free, so an uncompleted car can still be fixed at no cost.

Symptoms to notice

  • Engine stops suddenly while driving with no warning
  • Dashboard lights flicker or go out when the key is bumped
  • Ignition key does not hold firmly in the ON position

What to check

Ask the seller whether Nissan recall RT031 (ignition switch) has been done and look for a dealer invoice or recall record. With the engine running, gently wiggle the key in the ignition: the engine and dash lights should stay on. On the test drive, go over a few bumps and notice any stumble or cut out. Ask a Nissan dealer to check the VIN for outstanding recalls before you buy. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Nissan dealer can confirm by VIN whether the switch assembly has been replaced.

Where to look: Steering column, behind the key ignition barrel

Parts involved: Turbocharger.

Ask the seller

  • “Has the Nissan ignition switch recall (RT031) been completed?”
  • “Has the engine ever cut out while driving?”
  • “Do you have the dealer service and recall history?”

02AdBlue Tank Heater Failure Causing SCR Fault

Scan for stored SCR system and AdBlue-related fault codes including P20EE and P2BAD series.diesel2015 onwardElectrical
OccasionalElectrical $600–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The AdBlue (diesel exhaust fluid) tank heater element in the D23 NP300 fails, particularly in cold weather where AdBlue can freeze below approximately minus 11 degrees Celsius. When the heater fails the SCR selective catalytic reduction system cannot confirm AdBlue circulation and temperature, triggering fault codes and activating a countdown to engine derate. After a set number of engine start cycles with the fault active, the engine is restricted to a very low speed or will not restart, leaving the vehicle stranded until the heater is replaced and faults cleared.

Symptoms to notice

  • AdBlue or SCR system warning light illuminated on dash
  • Dashboard message warning engine power will be reduced
  • Countdown message stating vehicle will not restart after a set number of starts
  • AdBlue level sensor reading incorrectly despite correct fluid level
  • Check engine light with P20EE or related SCR catalyst efficiency codes
  • Engine entering derate mode with maximum speed restriction

What to check

  1. Scan for stored SCR system and AdBlue-related fault codes including P20EE and P2BAD series.
  2. Check AdBlue fluid level and confirm fluid is not contaminated or expired.
  3. In cold-climate vehicles test tank heater element resistance.
  4. Review whether any SCR warning history is stored in the ECU.
  5. Ask specifically whether the vehicle has been operated or stored in alpine or cold overnight conditions.

Where to look: AdBlue tank and heater element under vehicle adjacent to fuel tank, with SCR catalyst in exhaust system

Ask the seller

  • “Has the AdBlue or SCR warning light ever illuminated?”
  • “Has the AdBlue tank heater or SCR system been repaired or replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle ever been restricted to a crawl or refused to start due to an SCR fault?”
  • “Has the vehicle been regularly parked or operated in cold overnight conditions?”

03D40 Front Differential Vacuum Actuator Failure

Locate the vacuum actuator on the front differential — a small canister with a vacuum line attached.2005–2015ElectricalRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Distributor wear — misfires, stalling and no-start (3.3 V6 VG33E)

petrol2002–2006Electrical
OccasionalElectrical $400–$900 to fix

Does not apply

Unconfirmed. This entry does not match our record of which engines and years this model was sold with, and is awaiting review. Confirm it against the car before acting on it.

The 3.3 V6 still runs a distributor, and its internal shaft bearing is a documented weak point: as it wears the truck develops random misfires (code P0300), rough hot idle, stalling and eventually a no-start. Worn cap and rotor produce the same symptoms more cheaply, so diagnosis matters before parts. Because the distributor must be timed correctly on installation, a botched previous replacement also shows up as hard starting and flat running. Parts remain available and the repair is straightforward for a workshop.

Symptoms to notice

  • Random misfire or shudder, worse once fully warm
  • Rough idle or stalling
  • Intermittent refusal to start, especially hot
  • Whine or squeal from the distributor area as the bearing dries out

What to check

  1. Listen for: a whine or squeal from the top rear of the engine where the distributor sits, and any misfire or shudder at idle and light throttle — drive it long enough to get fully hot, because the fault is worse warm.
  2. Watch for: a check-engine light — ask the seller for the stored codes, and treat random-misfire P0300 as this fault until proven otherwise.
  3. Ask when the distributor, cap and rotor were last replaced.
  4. If a workshop inspection is possible: the cap comes off in minutes to check for carbon tracking and shaft play, and bearing roughness can be felt directly at the shaft.

Where to look: Distributor at the rear top of the engine

Ask the seller

  • “When were the distributor, cap and rotor last replaced?”
  • “Does it ever stall or refuse to start when hot?”
Body, brakes, suspension & interior9

01D40 chassis rail cracking or bending at the towbar (genuine Nissan towbar recall, built 2005 to 2010)

Wire-brush any surface rust from these zones before inspection.2005–2015Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

02D40 Rear Crossmember Rust-Through at Spring Hanger

Use a screwdriver or probe to tap and prod the metal — soft or hollow spots indicate internal rust.diesel2005–2015Body & RustRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

03NP300 Rear Leaf Spring Main Blade Fracture

The NP300 (D23) Navara uses a rear leaf spring pack with a single-piece main blade.2015 onwardSuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

04Takata airbag recalls (D40 Navara, 2008-2015, check VIN)

Note the VIN from the windscreen or door pillar: MNT means Thai-built, which is inside the first recall.2008–2015Interior
Very commonInterior $0 to fix

Does not apply

D40 Navaras were covered by two Takata airbag recalls, PRA 2016/15228 (Thai-built cars, VIN starting MNT) and PRA 2017/16363 (2007 to 2015 model years), because the inflator propellant can absorb moisture and break down with heat, so the inflator can rupture in a crash and throw metal fragments. This applies to all engines. The fix is a free airbag inflator replacement at a Nissan dealer. The first recall covers Thai-built cars (VIN starting MNT) and the second covers 2007 to 2015 model year D40s, so have a Nissan dealer check any D40 VIN.

Symptoms to notice

  • No warning sign at all: the fault only shows in a crash
  • Airbag warning light on if an airbag has been disturbed

What to check

Note the VIN from the windscreen or door pillar: MNT means Thai-built, which is inside the first recall. Ask the seller for the service history and look for a dealer invoice or service stamp showing recall PRA 2016/15228 and PRA 2017/16363 (Takata airbags) was done. A buyer can also give the VIN to any franchise dealer and ask them to check for open recalls before paying. If a workshop inspection is possible: a Nissan dealer can confirm from the VIN which airbags were replaced.

Where to look: Steering wheel hub and passenger side of the dashboard

Ask the seller

  • “Have both Takata airbag recalls been done?”
  • “Do you have the dealer invoice for the airbag replacement?”

05D23 NP300 Front Suspension Shimmy on Unsealed Roads

2015 onwardSuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

06Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Premature Wear

Any perceptible movement indicates the joint is worn beyond tolerance.diesel2015 onwardSuspension
CommonSuspension $700–$2,200 to fix

Does not apply

The front lower control arm ball joints on the D23 NP300 Navara wear to unsafe play well before expected service life, commonly presenting before 80,000km on vehicles with any off-road or towing use. Excessive ball joint play causes imprecise steering, pulling under braking, and clunking over bumps or during steering input. In severe cases ball joint failure can cause sudden uncontrolled collapse of the front suspension corner with loss of steering.

The front wheel of a car splayed outward with the lower control arm hanging down after a ball joint separation.Example of the part — not this vehicle

A separated lower ball joint: the control arm has dropped and the wheel has splayed out under the guard.

Elfix · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Symptoms to notice

  • Clunking noise from front suspension over bumps or speed humps
  • Clunk felt through steering wheel during parking manoeuvres
  • Steering pulling to one side or wandering
  • Uneven front tyre wear across the tread
  • Vehicle pulling to one side under braking
  • Vibration through steering wheel at highway speed

What to check

Any perceptible movement indicates the joint is worn beyond tolerance. Inspect the rubber boot on the ball joint for splitting or grease loss. If a workshop inspection is possible: With the vehicle raised safely on stands, lever the wheel vertically and laterally at 12 and 3 o'clock positions to check for ball joint play. A workshop inspection with the wheel off the ground and a dial indicator is the definitive test.

Where to look: Front suspension, lower control arm ball joint both sides

Parts involved: Ball joint.

Ask the seller

  • “Have the front lower ball joints been inspected or replaced?”
  • “Has the vehicle been used for off-road driving or heavy towing?”
  • “Is there any clunking from the front suspension?”
  • “When was the last wheel alignment done and what were the readings?”

07NP300 dual-cab rear coil-spring sag under load (five-link coil rear)

2015–2017SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

08D40 Rear Leaf Spring Cracking and Main Leaf Fracture

Inspect each leaf spring visually with a torch for cracks, particularly at the spring eyes (both ends) and at the centre bolt location.2005–2015SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

09Rear Leaf Spring U-Bolt Corrosion and Fracture

Inspect all four rear U-bolts closely for corrosion, cracking at the bend, or deformation.diesel2005–2015SuspensionRead the full fault: symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller

Nissan Navara faults in detail

Narrowed to the Nissan Navara · 1999. Each of these has its own page: the symptoms, where to look, what to ask the seller and what the repair costs. Free, no account needed.

D22 and D40 Rear Differential Pinion and Axle Oil Seal WeepingMajor · Fluid LeaksD22 chassis rail corrosion behind the cab and at the front rear-spring mountCritical · Body & RustD22 KA24DE Front Coil Spring Fatigue CrackingMajor · SuspensionTD27T Injection Pump Wear and Fuel Delivery FailureMajor · EngineTiming chain tensioner and guide wear — cold-start rattle (2.4 KA24E / KA24DE)Major · Engine

Compare the Nissan Navara

What these repairs cost on other cars

Some of the Nissan Navara’s documented faults are repairs other models share. Each page lists the documented NZ cost for every model it affects.

Buying guides that cover the Nissan Navara

Other Nissan models

Nissan Patrol48 documented faultsNissan X-Trail45 documented faultsNissan Skyline41 documented faultsNissan Pathfinder36 documented faultsNissan Note31 documented faultsNissan Qashqai28 documented faults

Nissan Navara buyer questions

Is the Nissan Navara reliable?

Like any used car, it depends on the specific example and its service history. Across the 45 documented faults for the Nissan Navara, the recurring problem areas are engine, body & rust, and transmission. A Nissan Navara with a full service history and no signs of the issues listed on this page can be a sound buy but each one needs to be checked individually before you commit.

What are the most common problems with a used Nissan Navara?

We've catalogued 45 known faults for the Nissan Navara, covering engine, body & rust, and transmission. All 45 are written out in full on this page, with the symptoms to notice, what to inspect, and typical repair costs for each. Free to read, no account needed.

How much do repairs cost on a Nissan Navara?

Most single repairs on the Nissan Navara fall between $800–$3,500 at NZ independent-workshop rates. Some of the 45 documented faults cost less and a few cost considerably more, and no one car needs them all. Knowing which ones to look for before you view is what lets you negotiate the price down or walk away.

Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a Nissan Navara?

Yes. A Nissan Navara inspection focused on its known weak points is the single best way to avoid an expensive mistake. KickTyres gives you a guided, model-specific inspection plus a market valuation and negotiation figure for $24.90 far less than the cost of missing one of the faults on this page.